†††††††††††††† January 2015††††† Peak Climbing Section, Loma Prieta Chapter, Sierra Club††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††† Vol. 49 No.1

http://peakclimbing.org - http://www.facebook.com/peakclimbing


This is Your PCS


Panta Rei - From Heraclitus - a Greek philosopher - "No man ever steps in the same river twice, for it's not the same river, and he's not the same man." Change is everything, and for the PCS, it's time for a change. I am your new PCS Chair, as well as the Loma Prieta Outings Chair and I am looking forward to serving you - but things are going to change.


Here is the problem - We are burning out the volunteers who generously give their time to satisfy you, the members.  We have fewer people who are willing to lead official trips, and those that do trips (and met through the PCS), do them privately with their friends.  We have fewer trips going out, and many of the ones that are Sierra Club sponsored are led by the dedicated few. So after all that, let me thank, from the bottom of my heart, some of those who have kept this group running:  Terry Cline, PCS Chair for the past 3 years, Judy Molland, our Scree Editor for the last 6 years, Joe Baker, webmaster for the last 6 years, Rakesh Ranjan, PCS Vice Chair for the past 2 years, Yoni Novat, Treasurer, Aaron Schuman, trip leader.  Kelly Maas, leading snow practice for the last 10 years. These people, and others, have formed the core of the club. But they can't keep doing this - without new leaders, new members, and more trips, our club will get smaller and smaller.


So what to do?


First, our monthly meeting at the Peninsula Conservation Center is not working.   The chair spends a lot of time lining up a speaker for the following month; it is always a challenge to get someone to volunteer to bring food, even though we collect cash to mostly fund it.  And we're getting a few people walking in the door, but our ability to convert them to either leaders or trip participants is small. So the main organ used by the club to manifest its existence is the monthly meeting, but it is not achieving its stated purpose of growing the club, leading to more leaders, and more trips. Yes, I like the meetings: the food is great, and so is the camaraderie.  But let's face it - the changing demographics, and the internet have dynamically changed the model of finding someone to climb with; the monthly meetings had their purpose in 1965, 1975, 1985, 1995, but not in 2015.


So here is my proposal - and I welcome your constructive comments and input- it is your PCS

  Change from a monthly meeting to a quarterly meeting

  Hold a trip planning meeting, open to all in February, at the Peninsula Conservation Center (PCC).

  Have a summer meeting/picnic

  Hold a fall meeting,

  Continue the PCS Festivus - that is well attended, and really fun!


Changes to Scree:  Wow – Judy, Joe – wow – thank you thank you thank you – it is heartfelt and deep appreciation

ē    My thinking is we have Scree 4 times per year – 2nd issue (March) will show the results of the trip planning meeting, and others will have very high quality trip reports and items of interest.

ē    A gear column would be great. Frank Martin did a great Gear Column for a year or so and it was fantastic.  We could do gear for different kinds of outings: one for ski excursions, for intermediate to advanced climbing, etc.


Changes to leadership

1. Bottom line, we need more leaders.  I encourage those of you who have let your WFA lapse to please become leaders again.  Please give back to the group that gave you so many climbing friends.

2. More trips beget more participants, more participants lead to more leaders, so having many trips is key. Leaders, I encourage you to lead.

3. WFA: there are lots of WFA courses available from Bobbie Foster, and others. If there is a problem giving up an entire weekend, I will volunteer my house for a two-week period of evening classes; I think Bobbie would be amenable.

4. We need to re-think how we are structured as an organization, and re-define the roles and responsibilities of our chair, vice-chair, and treasurer.

5. I currently serve as the PCS Chair, the LP Chapter outings chair, as well as the Mountaineering Committee chair, and I am also on the Sierra Club National Mountaineering Oversight Committee. I need a seasoned climber with interest to take over the Mountaineering and MOC duties, so Iím calling now for somebody to take that role.

6. And lastly: OLT 201 is a requirement for leaders. I will be teaching a class for all of the Loma Prieta Chapter in February.











Our Value Proposition

1. There is much, much good in the PCS: we get people to the top of peaks, safely. We train new leaders, we explore, enjoy the beauty of the Sierra and other wild places. Because of all that, we have a place in the world, and if we can build a reputation, I do believe people will come.

2. Training: there is much to admire in what the Sierra Peak Section does, and if you have been observing carefully, you will see that much of what I am trying to do is modeled on this successful chapter. I aim to develop an Outdoor leadership program with a few people who are interested in doing some training, and getting accredited.  This is not a 2015 goal, but something we ought to do.

3. People: we need to recognize our contributors, those that do so much. Some of the people who have put energy into the club say that they are not appreciated; we need to develop a culture of recognition.

4. Excomm meetings: these are a vital part of any organization; weíll start doing these with the core group running the club; itís part of a rhythm.


I am outlining a journey and I am hoping that some of you will want to join me on this journey – and since this Is Your PCS, I need your feedback and comments – I can be reached at list.barboza@gmail.com


See you out there, on a climb, and at a future meeting –--   LisaB


Editor's Notes


Thanks to everyone for all the great trip reports and trip descriptions I've been able to publish over the years. As you will read in Lisa's message, there will only be 4 editions of Scree per year from now on, so my task has been lightened.


Meanwhile, check out some interesting trips coming up this year!







Here's the link to the Advance Trip Schedule: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Ar3ERRQWOQJPdGFuRkFsZm5ydF9FTWM5UWIzbndlb1E&usp=sharing. Check it out.


PCS Trip Calendar


These are required statements.

Note: CST 2087766-40. Registration as a seller of travel does not constitute approval by the State of California.


Note: All Sierra Club trips require you to sign a Liability Waiver.



January 13, 2015: Snow Camping Seminar

(also January 14, & 21, and a weekend field trip January 30 - Feb 1)

Leader: John Langbein


January 17, 2015: Junipero Serra

Leaders: Yoni Novat, Lisa Barboza



PCS Trip Details


Snow Camping Seminar

See last page of Scree for all the details.


Junipero Serra

Goal: Junipero Serra, 5857'

Location: Ventana Wilderness

Date: January 17, 2015

Leader: Yoni Novat (yoninovat at yahoo dot com, 408-455-3169, Lisa Barboza

Difficulty: Class 1


Letís kick off a great new year of outdoor climbs with a climb to the highest point in Monterrey County, the 5857 foot Junipero Serra Peak.  This is a great, mildly strenuous



beginnerís climb with under 12 miles round trip and 3900+ feet of gain.  Good hiking boots and clothes for possible snow at the summit recommended.  Rain Cancels. To carpool, meet at Carl's Jr. in Morgan Hill (Take the Dunne Ave exit) at 6:30 am for a 6:45 departure. We'll start at the trailhead at 9 AM, summit by 2 PM, and be back at the cars by 5 pm. See http://www.summitpost.org/page/150486 for more information.

Private Trip Calendar


Important: Private trips are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra Club. They are listed here because they may be of interest to PCS members. Private trips may be submitted directly to the Scree editor.

February 7: Waterhouse Peak

Leader: Terry Cline


February 14 - 16: Casaval Ridge, Mt. Shasta

Leader: Kelly Maas


February 28: Echo Peak

Leader: Terry Cline


October 2015: Warren's Grand Finale!

Leader: Warren Storkman


January 2016: Ojos Del Salado

Leader: Jeff Fisher


Private Trip Details


Waterhouse Peak

Goal: Climb up and ski down Waterhouse Peak

Location: Lake Tahoe area

Date: February 7

Leader: Terry Cline


Weíll climb the northeast side of Waterhouse Peak from Luther Pass, about 1800 ft gain and ski down. An option is to ski down the steeper southeast side to Hope Valley for a 2500 ft descent if there is are enough vehicles for a car





shuttle. Advanced skiers. Weather and snow conditions may dictate change of date or cancellation.

Contact: Terry Cline, terry_cline@yahoo.com, 650.380.4708


Casaval Ridge, Mt. Shasta

Goal: Climb Casaval Ridge

Location: Mt. Shasta

Dates: February 14 - 16

Leader: Kelly Maas


The trailhead is Bunny Flat. Day 1: establish camp low on the ridge. Day 2: summit and return to camp. Day 3: hike out and drive home. Snow camping skills and adequate gear are required. The climbing is not technical, but there is moderate angle snow. Ice axe and crampons are definitely required. Shasta is notorious for strong winds, even in good weather. The trip goes only if the forecast and conditions are suitable.

Contact: Kelly Maas  408-378-5311  kamaas444@sbcglobal.net



Echo Peak

Goal: Echo Peak

Location: Lake Tahoe area

Date: February 28

Leader: Terry Cline


Weíll ski from the Echo Lakes Sno-Park on Highway 50 just west of Echo Summit to the Echo Lakes. Then ski across the chain of lakes to climb Echo Peak, about a 1700 ft total gain and then ski back down and back across the lakes to the cars. A little over 10 miles round trip. Intermediate-Advanced skiers. Weather and snow conditions may dictate change of date or cancellation.

Contact: Terry Cline, terry_cline@yahoo.com, 650.380.4708



Goal: Lhasa

Location: Tibet and Nepal

Dates: October

Leader: Warren Storkman






Since I stopped leading overseas hiking trips three years ago, this will be my grand finale trip.

There will be two trips:


1) Trek into Tibet From Kathmandu, then trek around Mt. Kailas  ending in drive to Lhasa.


2) An auto drive from Kathmandu to Lhasa.

Please let me know if you are interested. There is no obligation at this time.

Warren Storkman

650 493 8959



Ojos del Salado, Chile

Goal: Ojos del Salado (22,615')

Location: Chile

Date: January 2016 (approx 3 weeks)

Leader: Jeff Fisher


Ojos is the highest peak in Chile, second highest peak in the western hemisphere. No guides needed.  It is basically a big slog that requires

quite a bit of acclimatization, with ~90mt of class 3 at the top. Climbing season is Nov.–Feb. Crampons and ice axes are needed. If interested contact me and we can talk more about dates, acclimatization etc. Jeff Fisher  http://www.summitpost.org/ojos-del-salado/150299

jeff_fisher_5252   (at)   sbcglobal.net


Trip Report


Mt. Defiance

North and South Chalone Peak

Scout Peak

November 22 - 23


Daryn Dodge


Participants: Daryn Dodge (leader), Kathy Rich (co-leader), Louise Wholey and Ken Koyama.

We had a total of 8 signed up.But the weather report, and other things, dampened the enthusiasm of several participants. We ended up with 4 total participants for the day.



An excellent trip report by Bob Burd had previously sparked my interest in visiting this peak. From the end of Bear Gulch road, we hiked the Bear Gulch cave trail about 2/3 of a mile to the small Bear Gulch reservoir. A little south beyond the reservoir is a saddle with a nice view of Mt. Defiance. From the saddle we hiked a use trail towards the peak a few hundred feet to where it ends. To our right (south) was a brushy ravine that we followed down with some moderate bushwhacking. We left the ravine before it turned east towards the peak and began sidehilling above the bottom of the ravine on the north bank. There was less brush on this slope to bushwhack through. We gradually descended to where the ravine drops into Frog Canyon. Having entered Frog Canyon, we were now at the base of the NW ridge of Mt. Defiance. We followed Frog Canyon a short way until we could find a good start for the peak. The climbing was rather steep and loose in places for the first couple hundred feet of gain, but then got easier. The bushwhacking was not a big problem on the way up. This peak had nice views of the Pinnacles area. There were no use trails other than some occasional animal trails: Mt. Defiance sees little human visitation.


As we were contemplating our descent, light rain began to fall just as weather reports had predicted. We returned to the main trail the same way.Back at the main trail, we decided to go on to North Chalone Peak. The rain remained light, but visibility dropped to less than a mile. At the summit, thereís a visitorís board with the photo of the view one would have if the air was clear.That was the only view we had there because visibility remained low. We continued on to South Chalone Peak, but by this time we were rather wet from the constant light rain.Consequently, we spent only a short time at what we thought was the summit of South Chalone. Turns out the probable highpoint was in brush several hundred feet from where we stopped, but it was difficult to see anything at the time due to the rain and fog.






The next day three of us remained to climb Scout Peak as a private climb.The weather was looking great. We started at Bear Gulch trailhead again and followed the High Peaks trail about 2 miles up to a saddle with bathroom facilities. From here we climbed and hiked class 2-3 use trails south to the base of Scout Peak about a quarter mile from the main trail. This large rocky pillar marks the south end of the High Peaks in the Pinnacles. We circled around to the south side to reach the start of the Leonard-Horsfall route, which is rated 5.3 and marked by an obvious deep chimney about 20 feet up.


Daryn starting up Scout Peak

After putting on rocks shoes and setting up the rope, Kathy belayed me as I climbed up through the narrow chimney. I could not find the rusty hanger in the chimney that had been noted in Bob Burdís previous climb of this peak, so continued on up out of the chimney where the climbing got more difficult. I found the piton pounded into a crack a good 20 feet above the chimney and put a quickdraw on it. I continued up at about the same angle along the south side of the peak until I got to a bush that signified the



end after a total of about 25 meters of climbing. The last half of the climb I thought was a little tougher than 5.3: very steep with small hand and foot holds. There were a couple of hangers at the top to tie into and belay Louise and Kathy up. The 60 meter rope was long enough to bring both of them up, so I did not have to throw the rope down for the third and last person up.


Louise on the summit of Scout Peak


After a little celebration on the small summit rock, Kathy set up and rapped down the east side where there was another set of hangers with a chain connecting them. The 60 m rope was more than enough for a double rope rap. An enjoyable little climb!Many thanks to Kathy Rich for co-leading the trip and to Louise Wholey and Ken Koyama for their enthusiastic participation.


Photo by Alex Rogers: Daryn, Kathy and Louise at the summit of Scout Peak


Elected Officials


††† ††††††† Lisa Barboza: list.barboza@gmail.com


Vice Chair and Trip Scheduler

Rakesh Ranjan: rakesh.lists@gmail.com


Treasurer and Membership Roster (address changes)

Yoni Novat: ynovat@gmail.com


Publicity Committee Positions

Scree Editor

††† Judy Molland / screeeditor@gmail.com


PCS World Wide Web Publisher
††† Joe Baker/ pcs@joebaker.us


Joining the PCS is easy.Go to†† http://www.peakclimbing.org/join

PCS Announcement Listserv.

If you join the PCS Announcement Listserv you will receive announcements and updates of trips and meetings. Use the http://lists.sierraclub.org/SCRIPTS/WA.EXE?A0=LOMAP-PCS-ANNOUNCE&X=&Y= web page.


Snow Camping Seminar

Date: Tuesday, January 13, 2015

Time: 6:00 PM to 9:30 PM


by: Loma Prieta Chapter Ski Touring Section

Leader: John Langbein - 650-365-9462 john_langbein@yahoo.com

Registration: Registration Required before January 12, 2015 12:00 AM

Location: 3921 East Bayshore Road, Palo Alto, CA 94303, USA

Snow camping allows you to backpack in all seasons. By snowshoeing or skiing far

into the wilderness, you can visit the Sierras with its thick layer of snow and enjoy

the scenery far from the crowds; no competition for the "best" campsites! The

skills obtained from the Loma Prieta's Snow Camping Seminar prepare you for

camping happily in the snow, and give tips for day skiers or snowshoers caught

out overnight. Participants must be experienced summer backpackers as this

course will give you winter information and tips but doesn't teach basic


Three evenings, held at the Loma Prieta Chapter office during the evening of Jan

13, 14, & 21, and one weekend field trip on Jan 30-Feb 1, 2015. Limit 40

participants for the evening classroom sessions, and 25 participants on the


$35 cost includes books, instruction, and some common equipment used on field


To sign up, send $35 check, payable to BSCS, to P.O. Box 802, Menlo Park, CA

94026. Include name & email of each person, phone #, Sierra Club member

number (if oversubscribed, preference will be given to members). Upon receipt,

we will acknowledge and send more information.

Questions? Contact John Langbein John_Langbein@yahoo.com

Snow Camping Seminar Application

Name: _____________________________________________________

Address: ____________________________________________________

Phone: ________________________

Email: ____________________________

Sierra Club Member Number: _________________