Feb 2014             Peak Climbing Section, Loma Prieta Chapter, Sierra Club                                    Vol. 48 No. 2

http://peakclimbing.org - http://www.facebook.com/peakclimbing

General Meeting

Date          Tuesday, February 11

Time          7:30 pm – 9:30 pm

Where       PCC

                  3921 E. Bayshore Road

                  Palo Alto, CA

Program   Trip Planning And Screening of "Cold"


The focus of this month's meeting will be on trip planning for the spring, summer, and early fall. We will attempt to build out a full schedule with everyone's help. Come with your ideas for trips, proposed leaders, and dates. With the slim snow this winter, the Sierra will be more accessible early than ever.

As a bonus, we will show afterwards the short film "Cold", the story of the first winter ascent in February 2011 of Gasherbrum II (26,354 ft) by Simone Moro, Denis Urubko, and Cory Richards. This was the first winter ascent of an 8,000 meter peak in the Karakoram. This sufferfest shows the emotional toll and commitment required by such an undertaking and yet gets to the heart of why we climb. The views of the Karakoram in winter are spectacular.


Directions from 101

Exit at San Antonio Road, go east to the first traffic light, turn left and follow Bayshore Rd to the PCC on the corner of Corporation Way. A sign marking the PCC is out front. Park and enter in the back of the building.

Google     http://tinyurl.com/28ng

Editor's Notes

OK, so Scree is really short this month - and also really late. Apologies - I had to make an emergency trip to England, and I've been trying to catch up ever since.

But come to the February 11 meeting, so we can make awesome plans for the summer!


Chair Column

After discussion with many members and a straw poll at January's meeting, we have changed on a trial basis the posting policy of the lomap-pcs-announce email service. Anyone subscribed can now post announcements of items of interest to the section. Prior to this, an officer needed to forward such announcements on behalf of the poster, requiring a multi-step process and, occasionally, delays.

There are some guidelines though. This is not a discussion list. It should be used for announcements of events and access to resources. Events do not need to be trips, although that is the main purpose of the list. Meeting announcements are ok. Announcements making members aware of conservation and environmental issues related to climbing and climbing access are also ok. This should be provided for information only for members to act on as they desire on their own. They should not be discussed and debated on the list. If the membership desires a discussion list, we can set one up.

If the list becomes a spamming target or devolves into a discussion list, flame wars, etc, we will terminate the experiment and revert to the previous posting access rights. We'll give it a couple of months to see how successful the new policy is before making this change permanent.

A word about this month's meeting. For many years, a separate meeting of trip leaders was held in February to plan the schedule of trips for the coming season, typically spring through fall, but mostly summer trips. Another such meeting

was held in October to plan trips for the winter and the bridge seasons of late fall and early spring. While others have been encouraged to attend and propose trips to the leaders, such participation has been sparse. To be honest, the last few trip planning meetings have been sparsely attended, even by leaders.

So this February's general meeting will be an experiment to get wider participation in the trip planning process. Instead of a presentation as has been the norm, the focus will be on a trip planning session in which all can participate. This eliminates the need to attend a second meeting at a different location for that purpose.

As a bonus for participating in this experiment, we will finish off the meeting with a short film of the first winter ascent of an 8,000 meter peak in the Kerakoram, Gasherbrum II. Join us. 

PCS Trip Calendar

These are required statements.

Note: CST 2087766-40. Registration as a seller of travel does not constitute approval by the State of California.

Note: All Sierra Club trips require you to sign a Liability Waiver.


There are no official PCS trips scheduled at this time.

Private Trip Calendar

Important: Private trips are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra Club. They are listed here because they may be of interest to PCS members. Private trips may be submitted directly to the Scree editor.

Jeff Davis Peak

Goals: Jeff Davis Peak, 9065'

Location: SE of Carson Pass

Dates: March 8-9, 2014

Leader: Terry Cline

Co-Leader: Lisa Barboza

Gannett Peak

Goal: Gannett Peak, 13809'

Location: Wyoming

Dates: Mid - Late July

Leader: Timothy Hult

Private Trip Details

Jeff Davis Peak

Goal: Jeff Davis Peak: 9065'

Location: SE of Carson Pass

Dates: March 8-9

Leader: Terry Cline

Jeff Davis Peak, 2763m (9065ft), sits in the Mokelumne Wilderness above Charity Valley. This rarely climbed peak's politically incorrect name harks from the days when Confederate sympathizers populated the area in the 1800's.

Saturday we will ski, snowshoe, or hike, depending on snow conditions, up the West Fork of the Carson River in Hope Valley from Highway 88 at 7200ft elevation to a camp in upper Charity Valley; about 8.5 miles. Sunday we will climb Jeff Davis, which is straightforward until we reach the summit area. The summit is a volcanic plug split near its top by a class 4 chimney. We will then break camp and return to the cars. Snow camping and experience in over-snow travel, basic rock climbing, belaying and rappelling required. Depending on conditions, ice axe and crampons may be needed. Limit of six participants.

Leader: Terry Cline, terry_cline AT yahoo.com

Co-leader: Lisa Barboza, Lisa.Barboza AT gd-ais.com

Gannett Peak

Goal: Gannett Peak: 13809'

Location: Wyoming

Dates: Mid - Late July

Leader: Timothy Hullt

The approach is 19 miles into the head of Titcomb basin, a spectacular valley surrounded by 12,000' peaks, where after a two day back pack in we camp and wait for ideal weather.  Then up the scree hill to "glacier pass," down to the Dinwitty Glacier, up the Goose-neck couloir to a knife ridge

that leads to the summit. This is one of the most challenging stats. Weather is a HUGE factor in the success of this climb.  Participants must be up for several continuous days of long miles, high altitude and comfortable with ice ax and crampon work on steep slopes.  Trip will be timed to match the conditions of the couloir, but given the potential for low snow conditions this year, it is thought mid to late July may work.  Interested persons should contact Tim Hult  at timdhult at sbcglobal dot net

Trip Report

Junipero Serra (5865')

January 11, 2014

By Yoni Novat

On Jan 11th 2014 Lisa Barboza led a trip to Junipero Serra Peak with Yoni Novat as the co- leader.  Junipero Serra was originally called Pimkolan by the Salinas Indians then named Santa Lucia Peak before being renamed in honor of Junipero Serra.  It is located approximately at 36 degrees N and 121 degrees W in Monterey County approximately 18 miles west of King City.  We welcomed some new or infrequent participants, namely Rebecca Mammen and Stephanie.  Frequent members of PCS travels included Tim, Linda, Judy, Daryn, Alex, Louise, Jim, Stephan and Andrea. Ahead of us, not on our trip, were Bo and his wife Jean.

We met at Jack-In-The-Box in Morgan Hill at 7:AM.  From there, we met up with Louise and Jim near the entrance of Mission San Antonio de Padua at 9:00 AM.  We set out from Santa Lucia

Memorial Park (1960 ft / 597 m) at 9:40 AM with Tim leading off.  The weather was cool but promised to be a beautiful day with highs in the 60's F and a slight chance of rain (which with this drought, we doubted very much).  Rebecca identified Acorn Woodpeckers (lots) and Northern Flickers.  We took the first right fork as the trail wended east, then took a rest stop at thebulldozer.  Our second rest stop was at the burned trail sign after turning northward up the valley.  The trails were fairly clear, though in some places the trail split and rejoined.  Half a mile after the burned sign, the trail starts to switchback up the side of the ridge.  Once on top, the trail follows the ridge to the saddle between Peak 5642 and Junipero Serra Peak.

From there the trail works its way south to the top.  Surprise!  We saw Bo and his wife Jean coming down. The trail to the top had been worked on.  The deadwood had been cleared and the path was clearly visible.  This was in contrast to the trail in 2012 when the traveler had to climb over fallen wood cross country with lots of snow to get to the peak.  We peaked at about 12:40 and enjoyed lunch with fair visibility. 

Lisa showed us a unique conifer, the three needle Coulter Pine.  We could see the Pacific in a haze with Cone Peak and the Pine Ridge in the foreground.  The journey back gave us a great view of the geology of the mountains.  We could see the Granitic Schists that with their fractures form unusual cliffs and rock formations.  We arrived at the cars at about 5:00Pm in great health and good spirits.

Elected Officials


            Terry Cline: terry_cline@yahoo.com

Vice Chair and Trip Scheduler

Rakesh Ranjan

Treasurer and Membership Roster (address changes)

Yoni Novat: ynovat@gmail.com

Publicity Committee Positions

Scree Editor

    Judy Molland / screeeditor@gmail.com

PCS World Wide Web Publisher
    Joe Baker/ pcs@joebaker.us

Joining the PCS is easy.  Go to   http://www.peakclimbing.org/join

PCS Announcement Listserv

If you join the PCS Announcement Listserv you will receive announcements and updates of trips and meetings. Use the http://lists.sierraclub.org/SCRIPTS/WA.EXE?A0=LOMAP-PCS-ANNOUNCE&X=&Y= web page.

Climbing Classifications

The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing trips for which you are qualified. No simple rating system can anticipate all possible conditions.
    Class 1: Walking on a trail.
    Class 2: Climbing using hands for balance.
    Class 3: Climbing requires the use of hands, maybe a rope.
    Class 4: Requires rope belays.
    Class 5: Technical rock climbing.

Trips may also be rated by level of exertion: easy, moderate, strenuous, or extreme.

Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is  Monday, February 24. Meetings are held on the second Tuesday of each month.