June 2012     Peak Climbing Section, Loma Prieta Chapter, Sierra Club   Vol. 46 , No. 6

http://peakclimbing.org | http://www.facebook.com/peakclimbing

General Meeting

Date          June 12, 2012

Time          7:30 – 9:30 pm

Where       PCC

                  3921 E. Bayshore Road

                  Palo Alto, CA

Program   Views From Above: Scenes From The California Sierra And Swiss Alps


Presenter Sassan Hazeghi

Sassan Hazeghi will share some of his fantastic photos from the California Sierra and the Swiss Alps.

Directions from 101

Exit at San Antonio Road, go east to the first traffic light, turn left and follow Bayshore Rd to the PCC on the corner of Corporation Way. A sign marking the PCC is out front. Park and enter in the back of the building.

Google     http://tinyurl.com/28ngaw

Editor's Notes

We are low on trip reports, but VERY HIGH on upcoming trips in this issue of Scree.

Well, I am very high, so I hope you are too. I'm looking forward to a great summer exploring the Sierras.

See you on the trail!


Chair Column

Summer greetings to PCS members, and a warm welcome to visitors from the rest of the Sierra Club and beyond.  This month's meeting will be June 12, at 7:30 PM in the Peninsula Conservation Center, just off E. Bayshore near the San Antonio Road exit of 101.  Early in the meeting, before the refreshment break, there will be descriptions of upcoming PCS trips.  Then we welcome short reports of recent peak climbs (especially now that the climbing season is underway!).

The second Tuesday of July (this year on the 10th) will be our annual evening picnic & gear-swap.  It will be at Wildwood Park in downtown Saratoga, where we have had a great time for the last several years.  Full details in next month's Scree.  There still isn't a program for the August 14 meeting, so if you have one yourself, or know a friend with a good set of climbing or trekking pictures, please let me know!

Rod McCalley

Advance Trip Planning Schedule

Check out the excellent trip possibilities coming up this spring, summer, and fall. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Ar3ERRQWOQJPdGk2ZW5EVW8xSkRUT3l1SWV1Ry1FWnc#gid=0

PCS Trip Calendar

These are required statements.

Note: CST 2087766-40. Registration as a seller of travel does not constitute approval by the State of California.

Note: All Sierra Club trips require you to sign a Liability Waiver.


June 16 - 17 - Vogelsang

Leader: Joe Baker

June 23 - 24 - Kaiser Peak

Leader: Tim Hult

June 23 - 24 - Gould and Dragon

Leader: Terry Cline

June 30 - July 4 - Sill, Temple Crag, Gayley

Leader: Lisa Barboza

July 4 - 8 - Contrarian Marion

Leader: Aaron Schuman

July 14 - 22 - Meysan Dixon

Leader: Aaron Schuman

August 17 - 19 - Rule of Thumb

Leader: Aaron Schuman

September 14 - 16 - Tehipite Dome

Leader: Aaron Schuman

September 29 - 30 - Black Hawk

Leader: Linda Sun

Late September - Early October

South Warner Wilderness Loop

Leader: Tim Hult

October 12 - 14 - Senator, You are no Mount Kennedy (part 2)

Leader: Aaron Schuman

PCS Trip Details


Goal:  Mt. Vogelsang (11,516')

Location: Tuolumne Meadows

Dates: June 16 -17

Leader: Joe Baker

Difficulty: Class 2

We'll hike up Rafferty Creek from the Dog Lake trailhead on Saturday to our camp near

Vogelsang Lake. On Sunday we'll climb the class 2 route, and plan to summit our peak by noon. Following our successful climb, we'll return to camp, pack up and head out by late afternoon. Permit for 6. Leader Joe Baker.

Contact co-leader, Judy Molland, judy@judymolland.com, for more information. (Trip is currently full; waiting list only.)

Kaiser Peak

Goal:  Kaiser Peak (10,310')

Location: Huntington Lake

Dates: June 22 - 24

Leader: Tim Hult

Difficulty: Class 2

"Kaiser Loop Trail" - 15 mile loop trail from Deer Creek Trailhead to Billy Creek.
This is a strenuous trail that combines a climb to an outstanding panoramic view of the high Sierra from the summit, an opportunity to climb Kaiser peak, and a lovely hike through the forest and meadows of the lower portion of the Kaiser Wilderness.
Leader Tim Hult. Permit is for 4, please contact timdhultatsbcglobaldotnet

Gould and Dragon

Goals: Mt. Gould (13,005') and Dragon Peak (12,955')

Location: Golden Trout Lake above Onion Valley

Dates: June 23 - 24

Leader: Terry Cline

We'll hike the short trail from Onion Valley to a camp near Golden Trout Lake on Saturday. Sunday we'll climb the class 3 south ridge of Dragon Peak from Gould Pass and then traverse south to climb the class 2 north side of Mt Gould, returning to camp to pack up and hike out.

Leader: Terry Cline, terry_cline@yahoo.com

Sill, Temple Crag, Gayley

Goals:            Mt. Sill (14,153'),Temple Crag (12,900'), Mt. Gayley (13,510')

Location: Big Pine, Eastside of Sierra

Dates: June 30 - July 4

Leader: Lisa Barboza

Difficulty: Class 3 - 4, ice axe, crampons, helmets required

Climbing in the Palisades region. This will be a strenuous 4-5 day trip to climb these 3 peaks. Depending on snow, plan on bringing ice axe, crampons, and bear canisters. We will start at Glacier Lodge and hike in up the South Fork of Big Pine Creek to Lake Elinore, or higher in the scree field near Lake 11,744. Climbers must be in good condition, comfortable on class 4 rock. Day 1, hike in to Lake Elinore or higher, 2500' gain, 6 miles. Day 2, climb Temple Crag via Contact Pass, class 3. Day 3, climb Sill via Glacier Pass, North Col route, class 3-4 and then climb Gayley from Glacier Pass via the class 3 Golden Staircase; 4500' gain, 6 miles. Day 4, hike out.

Leaders: Lisa Barboza (lisa.barboza@gd-ais.com) and Bob Wyka

Contrarian Marion

Goals: State Peak (12,620'), Marion Peak (12,719')

Location: Kings Canyon Cedar Grove

Dates: July 4 - 8

Leader: Aaron Schuman

We’ll make an early season quest to the peaks that offer the most outstanding views down into the canyon of the South Fork of the Kings River. Starting at Cedar Grove (5035),

we’ll head up the Copper Creek trail over Granite Pass (10673), then down and around, taking two days to reach a camp at State Lake (10400). We’ll follow the challenging cross country route documented by Larry Hoak in 1990 (http://angeles.sierraclub.org/sps/archives/sps00159.htm). We will make a long day trip to our summit destinations, and retracing our path to the same camp. We’ll return the way we came. An ice axe may be necessary.

Leader: Aaron Schuman a.j.Schuman AT gmail DOT com.

Meysan Dixon

Goals: Mt. Corcoran (13,714'), Mt LeConte (13,845'), Mt Mallory (13,845'), Mt Irvine (13,780'), Lone Pine Peak (12,943'), Joe Devel Peak (13,327'), Mt Pickering (13,485'), Mt Langley (14, 027')

Location: Above Lone Pine, from Horseshoe Meadow

Dates: July 14 - 22

Leader: Aaron Schuman

There are enough tremendously tall and remarkably complex peaks in a small region at the southern end of the Whitney Massif that

we can make a base camp and climb all week long. A steep trail leads up from Whitney Portal (7849) to Meysan Lake (10700) in just four miles. From the lake, we will climb many class 2 and 3 peaks until we wish to climb no more. An ice axe may be necessary for self arrest.

Leader: Aaron Schuman a.j.Schuman AT gmail DOT com.

Rule Of Thumb

Goal: The Thumb (13,346')

Location: South fork of Big Pine Creek

Dates: August 17 - 19

Leader: Aaron Schuman

The Thumb is a digit extended skyward by the mountain range in an ominous gesture of defiance. The enraged appearance of the peak suggests that it may not be climbed, but

we shall seek out a class 3 route. Beginning at

the ruins of Glacier Lodge (7796') we will pack primarily on trail to our two-night campsite at Upper Brainard Lake (10,800'). We will climb over class 3 Southfork Pass (12,560'), where ice axe and crampons may be necessary. From the pass, the guidebook says the summit route goes class 2, but be prepared for something tougher.

Leader: Aaron Schuman a.j.Schuman AT gmail DOT com.

Tehipite Dome

Goal: Tehipite Dome (7708')

Location: Wishon Reservoir

Dates: September 14 - 16

Leader: Aaron Schuman

Tehipite is the tallest dome in the Sierra Nevada, standing higher by far over the Middle Fork of the Kings River than its famous sibling Half Dome stands over the Merced River. Tehipite would be a California landmark if only it were not so impossibly inaccessible. From an unnamed trailhead south of Wishon Reservoir (6800) in Sierra National Forest, 16 miles of up down up down trail lead us across Crown Creek (7881) to an anonymous point (8400) in Kings Canyon National Park, where

we begin 2 miles of cross country travel through forest and brush down to the base of the dome (7500). The summit itself is a class 3 climb, enlivened by an appalling drop of thousands of feet to the river below. Limit 4 participants.

Leader: Aaron Schuman a.j.Schuman AT gmail DOT com.

Black Hawk

Goal: Black Hawk Mountain (10,348')

Location: West of Sonora Pass

Dates: September 29 - 30

Leader: Linda Sun

Difficulty: Class 2

Start from the Kennedy Meadow Resort, west of Sonora Pass in the Stanislaus National Forest. Sat backpack to camp, 8 miles with

2,900’ of gain. Sunday early morning climb the peak, and hike out. Contact
Arun for sign ups.

Leader(s): Linda Sun pcs@lindasun.com
Arun Mahajan arun.mahajan@att.net

South Warner Wilderness Loop

Goal: Circumnavigate Warner Mtn Range

Location: NE California, about 20 miles from Alturas

Dates: End September/Beginning October

Leader: Tim Hult

Difficulty: Class 1 and 2

South Warner Wilderness Loop "Late September - Early October"
Objective of this 3- 4 day, 40 mile loop trip will be to circumnavigate the Warner Mountain Range in NE CA, about 20+ miles from Alturas. Leader is seeking partners interested in exploring dates for this trip and to discuss logistics. The loop trip begins and ends at Pepperdine trailhead with all travel except optional peaks on class 1 trail (Summit trail to Owl Creek Trail). Potential class 2 Peaks: Eagle Peak (9892 ft), Warrent Peak (9710 ft).
contact: timdhultatsbcglobaldotnet for a discussion of this trip, planning and timing.

Senator, You Are No Mount Kennedy (part 2)

Goal: Kennedy Mtn (11,433')

Location: Kings Canyon Cedar Grove

Dates: October 12 - 14

Leader: Aaron Schuman

Difficulty: Class 2

From Cedar Grove (5,035'), we’ll pack up the Copper Creek trail. We’ll set up camp in or above Upper Tent Meadow (9,189'). Saturday, we’ll hike over Granite Pass (10,673') to the north side of the Monarch Divide, traverse up and down through the Volcanic Lakes basin, pass East Kennedy Lake (10,100'), climb Kennedy Mountain (11,433') and return to our camp. Memorial Weekend 2011, this trip was stopped at 11,000 feet by a blizzard. It’ll be a different experience as an October outing.

Leader: Aaron Schuman a.j.Schuman AT gmail DOT com.

Private Trip Calendar

Important: Private trips are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra Club. They are listed here because they may be of interest to PCS members. Private trips may be submitted directly to the Scree editor.

June 30 - July 4 - Mt. Gayley

Leader: Arun Mahajan

July 5 - 8 - Mts. Goddard and Reinstein

Leader: Tim Hult

August 18 - 19 - Mt. Warren, Mt. Goode

Leader: Matt Blum

August 25 - 26 - Bear Creek Spire

Leader: Terry Cline

September 1 - 3 - Hooper, Senger, Gemini, Seven Gables

Leader: Tim Hult

October, 2012 - Nepal

Leader: Warren Storkman

January, 2013 - Argentina

Leader: Warren Storkman

Private Trip Details

Mount Gayley

Goal: Mt. Gayley (13,510')

Location: Big Pine, Eastside of the Sierra

Dates: June 30 - July 2

Leader: Arun Mahajan

Difficulty: Class 3, rock, ice axe, crampons, helmets required.

Gayley is on one end of a spectacular ring of peaks and the most alpine region of the Sierra with 5 peaks over 14000 ft next to it in a circle and the largest glacier in the Sierra in between.

Start from Big Pine on Saturday and then take the North Fork of Big Pine Creek and huff and puff our way to Gayley Camp at the edge of the Palisade Glacier. Sunday: Alpine start to go to Glacier Notch and then the Yellow Brick

Road (aka Golden Staircase) route (class 3) to the summit and back to camp. If time and energy permit, pack out to the trailhead the

same day. Otherwise, early morning pack out and hike out to the cars on Monday instead. Class 3 climbing; ice-axe and crampons may be needed for the walk to Glacier Notch from Gayley camp.

Participants must have this level of experience.

Organiser(s): Arun Mahajan (arun.mahajan@att.net)
Scott Kreider (scott_kreider@yahoo.com)

Mts. Goddard and Reinstein

Goals: Mt. Goddard (13,568'), Mt. Reinstein (13,586')

Location: Courtright Reservoir

Dates: July 5 - 8

Leader: Tim Hult

Difficulty: Class 2/3 but possible ice axe/crampons

Mts. Goddard and Reinstein from the West, class 2/3, but plan on bringing ice axe and crampons for the higher snow fields early in the season. We will enter from the West, proceed over Hell for Sure Pass, and camp at Martha Lake. Given this is a 5 day hike, the pace will be moderate. Wait list only for this hike. contact: timdhultatsbcglobal dot net

Bear Creek Spire

Goal: Bear Creek Spire (13,720')

Location: Rock Creek, Eastside of the Sierra

Dates: August 25 - 26

Leader: Terry Cline

Difficulty: Class 4

Saturday we'll hike from Mosquito Flat to a camp at Dade Lake. Sunday we'll climb the

northeast buttress of Bear Creek Spire and descend the Ulrichs Route and if time allows climb Mt Dade (class 2) before returning to camp and hiking out. A rope will be carried since some class 4 climbing should be encountered near the summit. To shorten Sunday, we could do Dade on Saturday via the class 2 Hourglass route after setting up camp.

Leader: Terry Cline, terry_cline@yahoo.com

Mt. Warren, Mt. Goode

Goals: Mt. Warren (12,327'), Mt. Goode (13,085')

Location: Tioga Pass

Dates: August 18 - 19

Leader: Matt Blum

Difficulty: Class 2

Saturday we will climb Mt Warren (12327 ft) from the Warren Fork route (starting near the 9000 ft sign on the Tioga road just east of the Tioga pass).  Sunday we will climb Mt Goode (13085 ft) from South Lake going up the SE slope route (with maybe a short diversion to "Mt No Goode" just west of the main peak).  Both peaks give wonderful views and the routes are class 2.  We may visit a hot spring Saturday night if people are interested. Leader: Matt Blum (mdblum@yahoo.com)

Hooper, Senger, Gemini, Seven Gables

Goals: Hooper Mt. (12,349'), Senger (12,286'), Gemini (12,088'), Seven Gables (13,080')

Location: Florence Lake

Dates: September 1 - 3

Leader: Tim Hult

Difficulty: Class 2,3,4

We will begin at Florence Lake ferry ride on 1 September. Trip is rated at class 3/4 for some of the peaks, and 2 for others. Permit is for 4. Participants must be comfortable with climbing up to class 4 and knowledgeable on use of a rope and proper technique. Contact timdhultatsbcglobal.net


Goal: Rara Lake

Dates: October, 2012

Leader: Warren Storkman

If you are interested in Nepal, October 2012, and going to Rara Lake in the remote Mugu District, contact Warren Storkman: dstorkman@aol.com.

No obligation, but I need your email address.


Goal: Aconcagua (22,841')

Location: Argentina

Dates: January 2013

Leader: Warren Storkman

If you are interested in visiting Argentina and climbing Aconcagua in 2013, contact Warren at dstorkman@aol.com and he will send you an informational letter.

Trip Reports

Mount Dade (13,600') via Hourglass Couloir

May 12, 13

By Julius Gawlas

Tioga pass opened on Monday May 7th and that enticed Linda Sun, Arun Mahajan and Julius Gawlas to make a quick early trip to the eastern side. Drive on Friday was uneventful and Sat morning we leisurely picked up our permit, had coffee in Mammoth and drove down to Mosquito Flat.


Bear Creek Spire and Mount Dade

We started hiking around 9:30 am in beautiful weather with awesome views all around. First 3 miles on dirt and then on consolidated snow – we were glad we left the snowshoes behind. We got to the lake around noon. It was frozen but easy to find fresh water. We found a nice dry spot barely big enough for two tents. After setting up the camp we left for the summit at 1 pm.  Nice easy walking on the snow, kicking steps, no crampons needed.


Linda coming up Hourglass

Hourglass is reported to be 40 degrees but that must be just in one spot because it felt much easier. A bit of a grind to get to the top of it and then Class 2 all the way to the summit. We summited at 4:15 pm, a bit tired from coming here all the way from sea level. It was Arun’s fourth time on Dade and Linda’s 100th peak! Fantastic weather, views – but we did not linger – wanted to get down the couloir before it froze over again.


Julius on the Summit

Nice easy walk down the chute and we were back at camp at 6:30 pm. Dinner activities and great conversation ensued. At sunset we retired to the tents after a great day in the mountains. Next morning we waited for the sun to get going but got to the parking lot almost exactly at 9:30 am – as Linda pointed out: making it 24 hours car to car.

Diamond Is Forever

May 26

By Aaron Schuman

Heading to the eastern Sierra, we got into a snowstorm on Tioga Road. We counted six separate car crashes including three rollovers. Traffic was stopped for five hours while the rangers brought in tow trucks and snow plows. But not a single ambulance was needed! Then the ranger supervisor decided that the road was closed to eastbound traffic and we should all turn around. Since it was Memorial Weekend, all of the campsites in Yosemite were full, so we went home. With Tim Hult, Dan Tupper and Matt Blum. Sandra Hao and her kids drove  via Tehachapi Pass and got through; she was heartily disappointed that we could not join her.

And that is the Diamond Peak trip report, in its entirety.

Elected Officials


    Rod McCalley/rodmccalley@sbcglobal.net


Vice Chair and Trip Scheduler

    Terry Cline/ terry_cline@yahoo.com

Treasurer and Membership Roster (address changes)

Sassan Hazeghi/sassan.hazeghi@hp.com

Publicity Committee Positions

Scree Editor

    Judy Molland / screeeditor@gmail.com

PCS World Wide Web Publisher
    Joe Baker/ pcs@joebaker.us

    1975 Cordilleras Rd, Redwood City, CA         94062


Scree is the monthly newsletter of the Peak Climbing Section of the Sierra Club Loma Prieta Chapter.  Current and back issues are posted on the web in PDF and HTML.

Our official website is http://www.peakclimbing.org.  Joining the PCS is easy.  Go to   http://www.peakclimbing.org/join

PCS Announcement Listserv

If you join the PCS Announcement Listserv you will receive announcements and updates of trips and meetings. Use the http://lists.sierraclub.org/SCRIPTS/WA.EXE?A0=LOMAP-PCS-ANNOUNCE&X=&Y= web page.

Climbing Classifications

The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing trips for which you are qualified. No simple rating system can anticipate all possible conditions.
    Class 1: Walking on a trail.
    Class 2: Climbing using hands for balance.
    Class 3: Climbing requires the use of hands, maybe a rope.
    Class 4: Requires rope belays.
    Class 5: Technical rock climbing.

Trips may also be rated by level of exertion: easy, moderate, strenuous, or extreme

Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Monday, June 26. Meetings are held on the second Tuesday of each month.