June 2008     Peak Climbing Section, Loma Prieta Chapter, Sierra Clu b   Vol. 42 No. 6

http://lomaprieta.sierraclub.org/pcs


General Meeting

Date:      June 10, 2007

Time:     8:00 pm (after PCC party; see p. 2)

Where:   Peninsula Conservation Center                3921 E. Bayshore Rd.                    Palo Alto, CA

Program:  Climbing Orizaba

Presenter:   Emilie Cortes

Note the time change! See details of party on p. 2.

In 2007, PCS member Emilie Cortes summited three of Mexico’s volcanoes in just 8 days - the third highest mountain in North America - El Pico de Orizaba - at 18,850ft, Nevado de Toluca at 15,390ft, and La Malinche at 14,640ft. 


These mountains offer a convenient opportunity for the intermediate climber to gain high-altitude experience in North America.  Climbing high peaks in Latin America is similar to the Alps where most summit bids are launched from huts (refugios). The volcanoes are spread around the countryside of Mexico City offering exposure to rural Mexico and the hospitality of the locals.  Emilie will share her picturesque photos as well as her learnings from the trip including tips on high altitude acclimatization and how to train to climb multiple peaks with little recovery time in between.

Directions:   From 101: Exit at San Antonio Road, go east to the first traffic light, turn left and follow Bayshore Rd to the PCC on the corner of Corporation Way.  A sign marking the PCC is out front. Park and enter in the back of the building.

For a Google map click http://tinyurl.com/28ngaw

Editor’s Notes

The climbing season is underway despite weather issues.  Here are some trip reports for your leisure reading.

Page Trip Report

6        Mt. Kinabalu (13,444ft) by Derek Palmer

12      Mt. Hood by Rick Booth

13      Stanislaus Peak by Arun Mahajan

14      Olancha Peak by Lisa Barboza

14      Mt. Shasta by Yoni Novat

15      Mineral King Skiing by Louise Wholey

Potential leaders who need to co-lead to complete their leadership qualification can select a trip from the schedule that has “Co-lead:  Needed” in the description.  Contact the leader to make the arrangement to be evaluated.  The south & west of Whitney trip July 2-7 can use two extra co-leaders.

From the Chair

Lisa Barboza

Cold Spring!

Why I lead

I lead trips for lots of reasons – first, I prefer to climb with others.  I’ve noted the injuries and mishaps over time and it’s safer with others, and a lot more fun.  I lead because I like to share the outdoors with others, and I always learn something on a trip.  Either the mountain teaches me a lesson, or I make a new friend or learn something from someone else – I find that we all have something to teach each other.  And many of our trips have a conservation theme.  My favorite is the elimination of non-native plants from our beloved Sierra.  One of the most persistent invaders is the thistle family.  A native of Europe, the seeds are dropped by stock and are spread by the wind.  Whenever I see a patch, I do my best to dig it up by the roots if I have time.  And I’m an officially sanctioned Sierra club leader for another reason – the liability insurance coverage that the Sierra club offers it’s qualified leaders that offers significant protection from the threat of lawsuit and financial ruin.

OLT 201 Training

While I’m on the subject of being a qualified leader – The PCS hosted a very successful OLT 201 class with 19 attendees, several from the Ski Touring Section, and from our own section as well.  Led by Tim Hult, Louise Wholey, and myself, we were able to squeeze the required training into 3 weeknights, and we served food as well.   To be clear, this training is required for leaders qualified after after July 1st, 2004 and must be taken once. All leaders qualified prior to July 1st, 2004 are grandfathered in and are exempted from the class.  But all leaders must take the OLT 101 training every 4 years, similar to Wilderness First Aid training, and maintain their currency.  Contact me for details if you’re interested.  We’re going to host another OLT 201 class in the fall. 

Combined event June 10th

Guess What – it’s the 15th anniversary of the Loma Prieta Chapter of the Sierra Club owning the PCC, where we hold our meetings.  There’s going to be a combined event on June 10th, starting at 6Pm, and the PCS is invited.  We’ll start our meeting 15 minutes later than usual at 8:00 PM, and Emile Cortes will present her climbs of Mexican volcanoes in 2007.   All of the PCC anniversary folx are invited as well – so this will be a full event, I’m sure, and there will be food at both events.


Summer Picnic July 8th

Another fun event.  Very little structure – just bring food, drinks and the beverage of your choice.  Also, it’s time for our annual gear swap, so bring along gear for our new climbers.  We’re looking for a new location, centrally located for this event that has more of a backcountry flavor – stay tuned for this one and we’ll see you there!

Finally – I want to thank all of the volunteers who make this club run – A grateful thank you to everyone!  LISA

Looking Ahead

The hardest part of preparing the Scree in the spring is getting trip descriptions from the various leaders.  People have time to dream, but beyond that, they are just plain busy!  Last year I invented what I could not get leaders to do.  This year I decided that was simply too painful, though I learned about how to get to many peaks!  Next year we hope to have a fully automated system for leaders to submit trips with descriptions through our website.  Of course, the best automation is to have the software plan the route, get the wilderness permit and sign up the potential climbers!  That is, unfortunately, unlikely in my lifetime!

The calendar in this issue does not have all the summer trips.  Late August and beyond trips were listed in are trip preview published in March.  Details will be forthcoming next month.  The main changes are to Lisa’s trips; the dates for the long Kaweah trip changed; the new dates and description are in this issue.  The Sawtooth,Needham trip was cancelled and replaced by the Florence, Vandever trip described here.

Sep 27-28 Western Sierra in Autumn - Florence & Vandever

Leader: Lisa Barboza (pcs.chair@lomaprieta.sierraclub.org)

Be prepared for fall mountain conditions with possible cold temperatures.  Suitable for beginner-intermediate climbers. 

Friday 9/26/08, drive in carpools from Bay Area to Mineral King.  Car-camp at 8000' trailhead. 

Saturday, dayhike both peaks. 3.5 miles to Farewell Gap, 2700 ft. gain, climb both peaks (about 3 miles and 2000 feet of gain).  Sunday, drive home.  Contact Leader with experience.

Louise, Scree Editor


Events

PCC 15th Anniversary

Tuesday, June 10, 6-8 pm

Party! Party! Party!


Note that this event immediately precedes our regular PCS meeting.  Come join Loma Prieta chapter participants for this special event and stay for a great slide show on Orizaba and other Mexican Volcanoes.

Help celebrate 15 years of financial freedom for the environmental community at the Peninsula Conservation Center.

Palo Alto Mayor Larry Klein will be featured speaker.

On this very day of June 10, 1993, the Peninsula Conservation Trust succeeded in its goal of freeing environmental groups from rising office rents and forced translocations. The Trust bought the building now known as the Peninsula Conservation Center from Cunningham Associates, paying most of the purchase price upfront. Bob Brown was the lead negotiator with the help of Larry Klein and Jan Fenwick. Mary Davey became Trust President. The names of all the generous donors who made the Trust's achievement possible are on the bronze plaque in the front hall. They will be honored at the reception.

The building is named for Robert and Patricia Brown, because of their significant gift to the center and Bob's having been a leader in the whole movement to have our own conservation center. After four years, the mortgage was paid off and we had a mortgage burning party at Mary Davey's home and put the ashes in her compost bin.

The Center is unique in that it is owned by a Trust whose sole purpose is to provide a permanent home for nonprofit environmental organizations which are a great community benefit. The home of seven environmental organizations today: Sierra Club, Acterra, and Committee for Green Foothills, California Native Plant Society, the TrailCenter, Environmental Volunteers, Camp Unalayee and Canopy this building brings together the people at the forefront
of the peninsula's environmental movement. The Acterra library is a local resource for environmentalists.

Please join us!


Memorial Celebration

Saturday, June 14, at 11:00 am

Sheldon Firth, a former PCS leader and one of the founders of the Beginners Snow Camping Seminar (BSCS), died on May 3rd. He was 75, and lived in Santa Clara until very recently.

His friend and close companion, Judy Coyle, invites his friends to join a Memorial Celebration on Saturday, June 14, at 11:00 a.m., at the “Log Cabin” at Alum Rock Park, 16240 Alum Rock Ave., San Jose. This event is scheduled on the date and time of the regular monthly hike group he led for more than 25 years. The hikers are having a potluck, too, if you’d like to join that.  However, Judy stresses to please come to the celebration and don’t stay away because of the potluck aspect.

http://www.sjparks.org/Parks/RegionalParks/arp/images/ParkMapAlumRock300dpi.pdf

Sheldon organized and led the BSCS for well over 20 years, until 1998.  He was active in both PCS and STS, and his climbing resume includes Denali in 1975. Since scaling down from the high peaks, he’d organized a local hiking group.

A fuller obituary will be published shortly in the San Jose Mercury News.

Since many of our current PCS members didn’t know Sheldon, I would like to invite those of us who shared climbs, hikes, and snow-cave digging with him, to share stories and memories of Sheldon. I can then collate and share in “Scree”. Email to this list, or to Chris MacIntosh at cmaci@sbcglobal.net (phone 650-325-7841 or mail to P O Box 802, Menlo Park, 94026 are other ways of contacting me).

Chris MacIntosh


PCS Trip Calendar

June 7-8 - Dunderberg, Excelsior

Leader: Lisa Barboza

June 13-15 – Eagle Scout, Eisen, Lippincott (Mineral King)

Leader: Lisa Barboza

June 28-29 - Disaster, Highland (car camp)

Leader: Charles Schafer

July 2-7 – South and West of Whitney (Choice of Guyot, Hitchcock, Young, Hale, Chamberlain, Newcomb, Joe Devel, Pickering, McAdie)

Leaders: Lisa Barboza, Louise Wholey

July 4-6 – Pilot Knob, Goethe

Leader: Tim Hult

July 18-20 - Junction, Keith, Bradley from Onion Valley

Leader: Lisa Barboza

July 26-27 – Mt. Morgan (S)

Leader: Joe Baker

July 31 – Aug 5 – Kaweahs (Big, Black, Red)

Leader: Lisa Barboza

Aug 1-3 Sequoia / Kings Canyon Car Camping

Leaders: Debbie Benham, Chris MacIntosh

Aug 2-3 - Mt. Davis via Rush Cr

Leader: Louise Wholey

Aug 9-10 - Mt. Baldwin

Leader: Charles Schafer

Private Trips Summary

Important: Private trips are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra Club. They are listed here because they may be of interest to PCS members. Private trips may be submitted directly to the Scree editor.  Details on these trips follow the trip reports. In this issue.

Jun ?, 2008 – Ice Axe Practice (tentative)

Jul 3-6, 2008 – Disappointment

Jul 12-13, 2008 - Iron Mountain

Aug 16-24, 2008 – Wind Rivers

Aug 29-Sep 1, 2008 – Clarence King, Gardiner, Cotter,         & Fin Dome

October, 2008 Kanchenguna Trek

PCS Trip Details

Dunderberg, Excelsior

Peaks:     Dunderberg (12374), Excelsior (12446)
Dates:     June 7-8
Leader:   Lisa Barboza (pcs.chair@lomaprieta.sierraclub.org)

These class 2 peaks are in the boundary region northeast of Yosemite.  Start at trailhead near Virginia Lakes (9800) for a 1-night backpack with climbs on each day.  Trip is suitable for beginners.  Depending on conditions, we might decide to day-hike these peaks and stay at the campground.  Peaks are 2-5 miles of hiking, about 2500 feet of gain. Send climbing resume with conditioning and recent experience. Carpool from Bay Area.

Eagle Scout, Eisen, Lippincott (Mineral King)

Peaks:     Eagle Scout 12000+, Eisen 12160+, Lippincott 12265
Dates:     June 13-15
Leader:   Lisa Barboza (pcs.chair@lomaprieta.sierraclub.org)

Co-lead: Louise Wholey (louisewholey@yahoo.com)

Trailhead is Mineral King on this 3 day trip to class 2 peaks of the Western Sierra.  We'll camp near Little Five Lakes. Day 1 is 12 miles, 3500 ft gain to camp.  Day 2, climb Eagle Scout, 10 mile RT, 1500' gain.  Day 3, climb Eisen, possibly bonus peak Lippincott, then hike out.  Send climbing resume with conditioning and recent experience. Carpool from Bay Area.

Disaster, Highland Peaks (car camp)

Peaks:     Disaster Peak (10047), Highland Peak (10935)
Dates:     June 28-29
Leader:   Charles Schafer (c_g_schafer@yahoo.com, 408-354-1545)

Co-lead:  Needed

These are relatively slow-paced day-hikes, suitable for beginners.  Both peaks are class 2 (See the last page of Scree what that means).  We will car-camp near Sonora Pass for one hike, then move to Ebbetts Pass for the other.  This is an area of the Sierra that we don’t often explore, so the hikes should be enjoyable.

South & West of Mt. Whitney – Pick your Peaks

Peaks:     Guyot (12300), Hitchcock (13186), Young (13176), Hale (13494), Chamberlin (13169), Newcomb (13422) , Joe Devel (13327), Pickering (13474), Newcomb (13422), McAdie (13799)
Dates:     July 2-7
Leaders:   Lisa Barboza (pcs.chair@lomaprieta.sierraclub.org)

                Louise Wholey (louisewholey@yahoo.com)

We'll attempt to climb several peaks ranging from the south to the west of Mt. Whitney on this 6 day trip. From Cottonwood Lakes trailhead, we'll go over New Army Pass and drop down to head north on the PCT or into the Sky Blue Lake basin, depending on which peaks people want to climb.  The peaks are all class 1 or 2, except McAdie, which is class 3.  


This will be a great trip to start the summer climbing season if you are in or near good physical condition. For the western peaks option: Day 1 is 15 miles with 3800 ft gain. Day 2&3: camp at Crabtree Creek, climb Hitchcock, Chamberlin, Newcomb. Day 4: climb Hale, Young.  Day 5&6: climb Guyot & hike out. Send climbing resume with conditioning and recent experience plus peaks of interest.  We will carpool from Bay Area.  Permits for 10.

Pilot Knob, Goethe

Peaks:     Pilot Knob (12,245), Goethe (13,264)
Dates:     July 4-6
Leader:   Tim Hult, 650-966-2215 (w)

This is an ambitious trip targeting two peaks in the Piute pass region over 3 days. 

We will hike up to Piute pass and make camp at one of the lakes near there with a possible reconnaissance of the 3rd class route of Goethe peak in that afternoon.   Saturday we will climb the previously scouted 3rd class route up Goethe and on the descent cross over on trails and cross country to do the easier 2nd class Pilot Knob returning to camp via headlamps.  Participants should bring a good headlamp, GPS, and be self-sufficient for camping.   

Center Basin Peaks - Junction, Keith, Bradley

Peaks:     Junction (13,845+), Keith (13,976), Bradley (13,264)
Dates:     July 18-20
Leader:   Lisa Barboza (pcs.chair@lomaprieta.sierraclub.org)

Co-lead: Louise Wholey (louisewholey@yahoo.com)

Trailhead: Onion Valley.  Leave Bay Area afternoon of July 17th, drive to Independence, camp at Onion Valley.  Friday 7/18 Climb over University Pass - drop packs, climb University (13,589).  Descend to Center Basin, camp above Golden Bear Lake. Saturday 7/19 Climb Bradley (13264), traverse to Keith (13976), return to camp.  Sunday, Climb Junction (13845, class 3) and hike out.

Send qualifications, climbing resume, including recent experience to trip leader.  Carpool from Bay Area.

Mt. Morgan (S)

Peaks:     Mt. Morgan (13748)
Dates:     July 26-27
Leader:   Joe Baker (pcs@joebaker.us, 650-261-1488)

Co-lead: Judy Molland.

This is a great introduction to climbing Sierra peaks.  The views from Mt. Morgan (S) are spectacular, with Bear Creek Spire, Mt. Humphreys, and the Pioneer Basin in sight.   On Saturday morning, we will meet at Rock Creek Lake in the Eastern Sierra, hike to Francis Lake, and set up camp.  On Sunday, we will climb the ridge to Mt Morgan at a moderate pace, return to camp, and head back to the trailhead.  The peak is quite high, so you should be in good condition and have spent some recent time at altitude. 


Exploring the Big Arroyo and the Kaweahs

Peaks:     Mount Kaweah (13,802), Black (13,720), Red (13,720)
Dates:     July 31 - Aug 5
Leader:   Lisa Barboza (pcs.chair@lomaprieta.sierraclub.org)

Co-lead: Needed

Trailhead: Mineral King.  Leave Bay Area Thursday afternoon July 31 and camp at Trailhead.  Friday Aug 1 hike over Sawtooth Pass to make camp in Big Arroyo - 16 miles, 4500 feet of gain!  Saturday Aug 2 climb Mt. Kaweah (class 1).  Sunday Aug 3 climb Black Kaweah (class 3).  Monday Aug 4 climb Red Kaweah (class 2).  Tuesday Aug 5 hike 16 miles out to TH and drive home.

Send qualifications, climbing resume, including recent experience to trip leader.  Carpool from Bay Area. 

Sequoia / Kings Canyon Car Camping

Peaks:      Silliman 11,188' (class 1,2),

                Alta 11,204' (class 1) or Mitchell Peak 10,365' (class 1)

Dates:      August 1-3 (Fri-Sun)

Maps:      Mt Silliman, Lodgepole: 7.5'

Leaders:  Debbie Benham (deborah05@sbcglobal.net,

                650/964-0558)

                Chris MacIntosh, (cmaci@sbcglobal.net)

Enjoy the beautiful forests and peaks of our national parks. I've reserved two side-by-side campsites at Lodgepole Campground.  $8 nonrefundable fee holds your spot for 2 nights (Fri/Sat). Saturday, we'll hike up Mt Silliman (expect a long day). Sunday, we'll decide on either Alta Peak or Mitchell Peak. Legendary group appetizers Saturday night.

This is a car camp with dayhikes. No overnight, backcountry wilderness travel.

Mt. Davis - via Rush Creek

Peaks:     Mt. Davis (12,303, class 2)
Dates:     Aug 2-3
Leader:   Louise Wholey (louisewholey@yahoo.com)

Backpack 8 miles, climbing 2600 ft, from Silver Lake to camp at Thousand Island Lake.  Climb Davis on Sunday, 10 mi, 2400 ft, then hike out.  Peak wildflowers.  Intermediate skills.  Permit for 6.

Mt. Baldwin – via Convict Canyon

Peaks:     Mt. Baldwin (12,615)
Dates:     Aug 9-10
Leader:   Charles Schafer (c_g_schafer@yahoo.com, 408-354-1545)

Co-lead:  Needed

This will be a relatively slow paced backpack to climb Mt Baldwin in the Eastern Sierra via Convict Canyon.  We’ll hike in and set up camp on Saturday, then climb the peak and hike out on Sunday.  This will be a very scenic hike through country with a variety of colors of rock.


Trip Reports

Mt. Kinabalu (4095.2m, 13,444ft)
The Sandarkan Death March... Part II

By Derek Palmer

Mount Kinabalu

It's not often that a business trip turns out to be a lot of fun. Every once in a while you get to layover a weekend somewhere interesting and have an opportunity to get out and explore instead of the usual monotony of airports, hotels, and conference rooms. Well in April I had to spend a week in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia before spending the following week in Japan. I decided to hit the web and find the tallest peak I could find in the area. I'd done Mt. Fuji last year on a similar layover in Japan, so I opted to find something close to Kuala Lumpur were I could find a cheap round trip ticket and be back in time for my connection to Japan. Well a quick search on www.summitpost.org came up with Low's Peak on Mt. Kinabalu, and it was in Malaysia! So I thought, “Hey, I might be able to even rent a car." Well a quick geography lesson taught me that the nearest city to Mt. Kinabalu is Kota Kinabalu in the province of Sabah. A quick check of my map and I find that it's over a 1000 miles to Kota Kinabalu and that it was on the island of Borneo! Well luckily, Air Asia just opened a terminal in Kota Kinabalu and a round trip ticket was only $135 US so the hike was on.

I quickly find out this is a popular destination as Kinabalu Park is a United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) World Heritage Site and is protected by the government. Access is very limited. No camping is allowed in the park, so all visitors must reserve accommodations. Four emails in two months to the reservations office got me no where and I found myself in Kuala Lumpur without any firm plans! However, I did remember there was a sales office in Kuala Lumpur for the company managing the park, so I walk over one afternoon, in the rain, to the office. As usual in Asia, people are incredibly helpful and friendly and a quick phone call got me a bunk bed in the hostels at the parks central complex and at the mountain hut.

I finished up my work on a Friday and got on my flight to Kota Kinabalu. Catch the bus from the Airport to the towns' central bus station for 1 Ringgit (33 cents). I then find that I need a bus to Ranau, which leaves from a Mendaka park 3 blocks away. The Ranau bus stops outside the park. Well I march off with my backpack and rolling suitcase and I arrive soaking wet. My Canadian blood isn't thin enough for the tropics and it was hot and humid. I later found out April is the dry season. Yah Right! It rained every day. I think they meant it's less humid. Now I find my bus..., well that's what they called it. It was two guys and a Toyota minivan with 11 people and luggage stuffed in it. That may sound like a lot, but you have to remember the Malaysians aren't large in stature as a race of people, and there were lots of kids.! Whoowho!

Me on the luxury bus to Ranau

My timing was great as the afternoon rains started and I was inside at least. The price was great, only 20 Ringgit ($6.75), so I thought it would be a short ride. 2 hours later, we arrived at Kinabalu Park. I must say, the driver was amazing. He slid the van through the corners in the rain and passed trucks on a two lane road with no visibility around blind corners overlooking spectacularly beautiful cliffs that seem to fall away into a infinite abyss. I think Michael Schumacher would have been impressed. I found closing my eyes and praying helped! My new best friend Nia, from England, found exclaiming “Oh God!, Oh God!, Oh God!" at every turn worked for her. Same thing I guess. The locals sure thought it was funny. The kids were all laughing at her. Getting to the mountain is half the fun... right?

A short walk in the rain and I was at the park. $15 Ringgit to enter and I find the reservation office and get my bunk bed assignment and then walk the 15 minutes down the road, still in the rain, to my luxury accommodation. I bought the package deal, so all meals, lodging, climbing fees, permit fees, personal guide fees, non-Malaysian fees, insurance fees, and my certificate fee, were all included (483 Ringgits). After stowing my gear I headed to the common room where I hoped to try out in front of the fire, I met James and Bob, two local Malaysian gentlemen who do pest control around the facilities. I'd mention it must be nice to work in a beautiful park like this from time to time and learned they live there? I guess there have lots of bugs! I also learned that everything in Malaysia is now owned by the Chinese, Indians, Japanese, and that Malaysians basically get screwed and live in poverty. Nothing like a little local color!

Timpohon Gate

Around dinner time, I'd dried out, the rain stopped, and after I'd gotten a great lesson in Malaysian socio-economics, it was time to head to the Balsam Cafė for the buffet dinner. The food was great; lots of local fruits and vegetables. Lot's of spicy noodle dishes. The service was wonderful and the waitress was always smiling. My only recommendation is just stay away from meat in Malaysia. I don't know where it comes from, but the chicken and beef taste the same and the consistency always seems to be like I left my beef jerky in the rain? There are lots of other great foods, so just go vegetarian. I met lots of folks from all over the world. Nia was there; she'd been bopping around Borneo for 7 months. There were also a couple of young climbers from Austria, a couple from Korea, and Dorette from Denmark. She was a fitness instructor and I later learned her name was the Danish form of Dorothea which means "Gift from God". How appropriate. Meeting folks from other places is always a lot of fun. I turned in early as I new the next couple days were going to be fun. The website said the climb was 2200 up and 8.7 long. That didn't seem so bad.

The next morning I went back to the cafe for the breakfast buffet, picked up my sack lunch for the climb, and met my guide at the climbing office at 7am. A short shuttle ride (part of my climbers fee) and we were at trailhead at Timpohon Gate. There is a nice viewing deck behind the gate where you can get a good view of the mountain. It was about this time that I realized the 2200/8.7 was metric and my little engineers brain went into over drive and I realized I was in for a lot more fun than I'd anticipated. A climb of 7283ft/5.4 miles was my conversion. "Oh Crap", It's Whitney's North Fork, but worse. And I used the "Danish" word for crap!

By the way, Timpohon Gate is really a gate. You have to have a plastic ID badge to get past. All climbers passing the gate must wear a badge. It's got a nice photo of the mountain on the front with the text, "Welcome to Mt. Kinabalu, Take nothing bug photographs and leave nothing but footprints". You get to keep it too. It's a nice keepsake from you trip. It looks great next to my certificate! After the hike I looked back at the "Welcome to Mt. Kinabalu" part and had the ironic thought that it was a lot like the "Welcome to Canada" sign painted on the cement wall at the exit of the fastest chicane at the Canadian F1 Grand Prix where everyone crashes spectacularly.

Carson Falls

Rhododendron-like Native Flowers

The start of the hike was down hill. Already I'm thinking about all those feet I'm going to have to climb back up. Even worse, tomorrow I'll have climbed 3000ft to the summit and descended 7300ft and I'm going to be rewarded with the last 1Km being up hill. It was about this time I really started to see the jungle and my attitude improved. The waterfalls are spectacular. Water is everywhere. The plants are all lush and deep green and the flowers are amazing deep red, yellows, and pinks. It really is an amazing place... even though it was raining again.

After a short bit of climbing we found ourselves above most of the lower rain clouds but still below the clouds surrounding the summit peak. The trails were remarkably easy given that the rain rips them apart so regularly. They have harvested tons of local teak wood and made treadles all over the place to hold up the trails. In the Sierras you have lots of trail dust, sand, scree, but here it's just gravel, stones, boulders and red clay mud. Everywhere you look you see examples of fungi, pitcher plants (Nepenthes Villosa), birds, and succulent flowers. Some flowers span 3-4 feet.

Over 2500 Steps

One thing I really loved about this trail were the signs every 1-1.5 Km with a map and a dot exclaiming, "You are here". It gave me a great sense that I wasn't lost and it validated my feeling that I was moving much slower than usual. I'm a comfortable 1.5-2.0 mph hiker and I was averaging about 1 km/h! I figured the heat and humidity would slow me down, but Wow! The second thing I loved about this trail is that they didn't waste resource and time cutting switchbacks into the trail. It seems they have a great love of this ecosystem and wanted to cut down as few trees and shrubs as possible. The trail goes straight up.

Another item worthy of mentioning is the design of the steps cut into the hillside. Steps are 10 - 20 inches tall! I can only guess that the trail builders saw themselves as giants among men because the locals weren't that tall, but the steps were huge. My old trick of taking small steps to save my poor thigh muscles just wasn't working.

Restaurant Porter

I'm not sure if it's planned this way, but about the time you thighs really start to burn and you've sweated out your first liter of water, the restaurant porters show up. These guys and gals carry all the supplies for the mountain huts and restaurant at Laban Rata, our destination for the day. Young porters carry 35 Kilo loads in a basket with straps over their shoulders. Nobody had load levelers or a good padded hip belt. Much lower tech than I would have imagined. The seasoned veterans carry up to 50 Kilos! The calves on these guys with wider than my thighs.

It seems mules and horses are not well trained enough to use the toilets at every rest station so they have to use people. I told you they keep this place clean! You can't go run off an pee in the bushes. Either that, or people work for less money. My guide gets 100 Riggit's for taking a group to the peak. That's $30US for two days work. And my 6' 1" son bitches about having to drag the trash cans 1200ft up my driveway and they are on wheels! I'm lowering his allowance. The low point of the day was watching a woman around my age about 5' 2" tall go flying past me smoking a cigarette with the biggest pack I've ever seen. I felt wiped. I think we've forgotten how to work hard in this country. Anyway, I thought the toilet thing was interesting. Every station had one. I drank 6 quarts in 7 hours and never had the need to avail myself of the facilities. It took 2 more quarts at the mountain hut and 2 more beers. That reminds me, beer is really expensive at the mountain hut. The porters only bring up cans. They're too wimpy to lug up a keg!

The lower part of the trail is very different that the sections higher up. You are in a jungle with a tall canopy. You can't see much except flora and fauna and you don't get a sense of where you are and how far you have come, except for those wonderful aforementioned signs. As you progress up the trail you work your way into a section that is covered in large chaparral like shrubs. It's not a dry area, but all the tall trees disappear. This is where I got my second wind. You can see the mountain, and you can feel you progress. There's something about being able to see mountain that makes you legs keep moving. It's kind of like the carrot in front of the horse I guess.

After about 7 hours of climbing we had made it to the 6 Km sign post and had arrived at the Laban Rata mountain hut. I checked in and was assigned a heated room. I'd recommend the heated room. Some of the other climbers were very cold in the unheated rooms. You get a blanket and a sheet, so you might find yourself sleeping in your cold weather gear otherwise. I was told the temperature drops about rapidly as you gain altitude in the tropics.  Something to do with a much steeper humidity gradient as you gain altitude.    Once we left the protection of the dense jungle trees, the wind chill was very noticeable and we started putting on layers.

The Laban Rata Hostel (10,500 Ft)

Where did the jungle go? As we approach the Laban Rata mountain hostel you get amazing views of the upper mountain if the weather cooperates.  The climbers we passed on our climb had all climbed to the hut in the rain and were rained out on the peak and had to turn around at the mountain huts.  Just like here in the Sierra's you have to get an early start and hit the peak around sunrise to have even a chance of getting a view and avoiding the rain. After a quick shower and a meal, I took some pictures and headed off the bed around 7pm.  My guide Kuinten suggested we leave around 2:30am to reach the peak at sunrise.  One additional note about reaching the mountain hut, the climb is actually steepest, just before you get to the hut!

 View of the upper granite dome.

The upper granite dome

Our early AM start was pretty easy. I must admit between jet lag and the long climb I was whacked at 7pm and was out like a light. I was up at 2am, got my 7 hours of sleep, grabbed breakfast and we headed off to the peak.  With the exception of forgetting my headlamp in my suitcase everything went swimmingly.  Kuinten had a spare and saved the day.  There was a half moon out for our start which allowed us to see a little.  It wasn't enough to get any good pictures, but as we climbed out of the shrub brush and onto the granite slopes, you could see off towards the coast and the moon was reflecting off the ocean and the starts were as bright as I've seen on the high peaks of the Sierra.  The bad luck of the folks the previous day had bought us a clear cloudless morning as we climbed to the summit.

Once you climb an initial steep 200 meter section you gain the upper slabs of the granite dome and things become quite a bit easier.  The only difficulty on this section is that you are on granite slabs and have to use a nylon rope to pull yourself up in sections and to give yourself some extra safety as you have to cross a few section of wet mossy granite with some exposure below.  There is a final summit checkpoint at 12,100ft (3688M) called Sayat CP where they check you badge and register your guide and allow you access to the upper section of the mountain.  This is also the station where you can let them know if you'd like you certificate stating you made the summit.  They attendant will radio your information to the climbing office and they will have a certificate waiting for you when you arrive. 

The Donkey Ears

This section of the mountain is a lot like walking the area around Half Dome in Yosemite - solid granite everywhere.  What's very different are the formations in the granite.  I'd never seen anything like them, not polished like we see in the Sierra, but it's almost like it's been pressure blasted by water.   Huge slabs of granite are being broken off by constant freezing ice storms up here.  They killed a 17 year old British girl in 2007.  Then the constant flow of water moves them down slope then off the edge of the dome. 

Gully Above Sayat Check Point

Kuinten had mention that there have been times where a sudden rain storm has cut off the route back down to Laban Rata.  These huge sheets of granite collect the torrential tropical rain storms and they funnel into only a few gullies.  One of these gullies passes right next to the Sayat checkpoint hut.  It's basically an instantaneous flash flood that can be a few feet deep and rushes right over the edge of the dome. 

Gully in Torrential Tropical Rain

The long walk up the slabs wasn't difficult at all because we had good weather and clear skies.  The long continuous rope wasn't needed except in a few areas, but I could see from the weather later in the day that rain and fog can descend on the peak and your visibility drops to 20-50ft.  Many climbers have had to use the rope just to find their way back.  The few people who have died on this peak have lost their way on the rope and headed off the edge of the dome or down the wrong gully.  There is no use trail across this area.  Even following the rope in the dark required paying constant attention.  It's very easy to wonder off and lose track of where it runs. 

Good Weather for Us!

The actual summit peak requires a little scrambling and there is a nice sign at the top so you can grab a quick photo for your album.  The wind chill on this day was very cold and the weather was good.  There were many climbers that got to the summit too early and had to wait 1-2 hours in very cold conditions for sunrise.  Not many had gloves, hats, or enough layers to keep warm.  Many were heading down before the sunrise which was a shame.  I hung around for about 30 minutes and decided to get moving again to warm up.

Summit Shot

Heading down was actually the hardest part of the entire weekend.  We still had 3000ft down to the mountain hostel for breakfast and another lunch sack.  Then we had the rest of the 4300ft to go and all those steps again, with over 10,000ft of elevation change in one day, I can officially claim that this was a new personal best for me! I saw a lot of climbers in really bad shape with blisters from their toes being jammed into their shoes and even more who had just plain bonked.  One overweight 50-something guy from the US was carried down from one of the mountain stations by a porter!  The guy being carried was easily 200lbs!  I hope he was a big tipper.  I can say personally that my legs were sore for the next 4 days.  The final 1000ft of the decent I was in the rain, exhausted, and holding onto railings and trees to help stabilize myself as I stepped down one more step. The last uphill section back to Timpohon Gate that I was dreading actually was a blessing in disguise.  Going up, I was able to use my back and my butt muscles and let my thighs have a rest. 


Mt Hood, May 10, 2008

By Rick Booth

The plan was to climb Mt Hood on Saturday and climb Mt St Helens on Sunday.  Unfortunately, it looked like the approach for St Helens would be longer than expected due to the huge snow year in the Pacific Northwest.  We decided that in spite of this we would give Mt Hood a shot and fill in Sunday with a trip to Smith Rock or just come home.  So, on Friday afternoon, May 9, Linda Sun, Scott Kreider, Arun Mahajan, and I headed to the airport and flew to Portland.

After arriving in Portland we waited for our luggage to arrive.  More specifically, we waited for one of my two bags to arrive.  Even more specifically, we waited for the one bag with my boots, socks and crampons to arrive.  It didn’t.  The baggage agents at Southwest filled out the “whatever” paperwork, and assured me the bag would be delivered to the hotel in Government Camp.  I informed them I needed it before 3 AM, since that was when I had to leave for the Timberline Lodge to meet up with the Snow Cat.  The agents said they would do their best.  I was so mad lightning bolts were flying off my fingers when I touched things.

That evening at the Mt Hood Inn, I half heartedly packed my day bag for the hike not expecting the bag to show.  At 2:30 AM the alarm went off and I called the front desk to ask if the bag had arrived.  Nothing.  I went back to my poor breakfast, did some last minute adjustments to the pack, and at about 2:50 AM the room phone rang.  The front desk informed me the bag had arrived!  I was flat amazed.  With the boots and crampons, the ascent was on.  I retrieved the bag and at about 3:10 AM we headed for the Timberline Lodge to meet up with the Snow Cat.

I had called the Timberline Lodge during the week and they said the Cat ran between the hours of midnight and 4 AM.  It turned out the 4 AM run for Saturday morning had been reserved by some dude from Portland named Paul something-or-another.  He was apparently looking for more people to fill the Cat since it costs $165 to run that thing up the hill.  Anyway, I called Paul and it looked like the four of us would fit in.  We rolled into the Timberline Lodge at about 3:35 AM, filled out the self issue climbing permit, found the Snow Cat and a friendly dude from Portland Mountain Rescue who was also going up with us, piled into the Snow Cat, and waited.  And waited.  The PMR dude got a call from Paul and informed us Paul had battery trouble with his car.  At about 4:45 AM Paul rolls up in a car that looked way too new to have anything like a battery problem and the nimrod tumbles in smelling like a bad night out with Jack Daniels, Jose Cuervo, and Johnny Walker.  Nice.

Finally the Snow Cat fired up and Team Cheatwhenyoucan was on its way.  The Cat dropped the whole kit and caboodle off at about the 8500 foot point on the South Face of Mt Hood.  By this time the sky was light enough to barely see without a headlamp but the clouds were already low and rolling in.  This was supposed to be the “good” day.  We speculated on what a “bad” day was like in the Portland area.  In any case, we put on our crampons and at about 5:15 AM, we started the slog uphill.  Soon, it was blowing snow, alternating with blowing rain, alternating with just blowing whatever happened to be lying around.  All this commotion managed to somehow not blow the clouds away, and by the time we had gained about 200 inches in elevation we went into a white out and stayed there for the rest of the day.

It was surreal.  We just kept going uphill in the track or what looked like the track in the white out.  People would just appear out of the gloom and pass us going down hill.  We talked to some of them and some had summitted but most were turning around.  The problem was too much wind and way too much white out.  Team Maybenotsosmart kept chugging uphill, lousy condition reports notwithstanding.

We kept checking the elevation and after passing a smelly fumerole type place, we ended up at what we think was the base of the Hogsback and a little past Crater Rock.  It was at least a saddle with an uphill track heading up into the gloom.  At this point my hands were frozen and Scott saved me by offering a pair of mittens with a windblock outer shell.  That was the ticket.  We also ran into the friendly PMR dude who advised us to take the second left turn off the uphill track and not the first.  Since we couldn’t see either left turn from our so called vantage point, this was good info.  He further admonished Team Firsttimeonthemountain to not miss the left turn off the saddle coming down, or we would run the risk of expiring at the base of the Mississippi Cliffs, an odd name for a feature in the State of Oregon.

The uphill track into the gloom was pretty steep.  Anyway, we passed the first left turn, which looked uneasily decent, and made it to the second left turn.  Apparently the “Pearly Gates” were to the right, but most people did not head in that direction.  This brought us to the final steep section behind a rock outcrop and onto the summit plateau, or maybe plateauette, since it was pretty small.  The bergschrund was never encountered and supposedly the high snow fall had covered it for this year.  We never roped up, in spite of the fact that we had one rope, two pickets, a hammer, four ice screws, no brains, and there were several other rope teams on the route.

We attempted a couple of photographs, and got a summit hero shot or two, but that was about it.  The view was zero.  A couple of looks around at absolutely nothing, exchange a few jokes with the other yahoos, and Team Fourfrozenpopsicles headed back down the way we came up.  By then, it was 9 AM.

View inside my sweat socks was like the view from summit

Arun Mahajan, Scott Kreider, Rick Booth and Linda Sun on the summit of Mt Hood
May 10, 2008

We chugged down to the saddle, made sure to turn left, and headed down the track.  The track sort of fans out into obscurity, not particularly helped by the blowing snow, and the thought of shooting off the top of the Mississippi Cliffs made us hyper-sensitive about straying too far to the right.  Unfortunately, Team Howthehelldoyougetoffthisdamnthing drifted too far to the left, and the descent quickly steepened.  This did not escape our collective perception, which was considered a minor miracle, and we quickly decided to head back to the right, and with a little looking around we found the obscured track.  From there it was pretty much straight downhill.  We crossed the Snow Cat track and followed it down.  Finally, a few hundred feet above the Timberline Lodge, we hit the bottom of the cloud bank, and we could see down to the lodge and the parking lot.  From there we headed to the lodge, signed out at the climber registration, and found the cars at a short time after noon.

Final Notes:

Bring a GPS.  A guide book for the routes on Mt Hood is:  A Summit Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes, Jeff Smoot, Chockstone Press, 1992.  There is probably a newer edition.  Information about the Snow Cat is available from the Timberline Lodge (503)-272-3391.

Stanislaus Peak, May 17, 2008

By Arun Mahajan

It was a good trip.

There was ski-able snow almost all the way with some bare patches. Snow is going away fast.  We had a lot more snow on Memorial Day, doing the same trip, a couple of years ago.

There was a relatively modest climb on skis from the pass to a saddle, probably left of the actual St Mary's Pass but this saddle also had a signpost, something about wilderness or fires or something. From there, we crossed rolling and gently rising terrain to base of the peak which is sort of rightwards, staying high to get more snow cover. Snow was really getting slushy.  We dropped our skis (well, I carried mine, bad move), then climbed on loose talus to summit, descending the same way. We made a mistake by skiing down a lot lower and had to back track up as a result. It was a good day and a good route but a lot more touring than ski slopes.

The stats:

Started skiing at 9.25, straight from St Mary's Pass trailhead.

Summit (11233 ft) at 12.50.

Left summit at 1.30. Cars at 4.35.

Pledge

I pledge allegiance to the trees and to the forests of America

And to the wilderness in which they stand,

One ecosystem under pressure,

With appreciation and passion for all.

Greg "Strider" Hummel  (pct-l)


Olancha in a Day,  May 10-11, 2008

By Lisa Barboza

Abstract:  Olancha Peak 10,047

Day 1:Sage Flat TH to Olancha Summit- 18 miles, 6200 feet

Day 2: Summit Meadow camp to Sage Flat TH – 4 miles, -4000 feet.

Detailed directions to trailhead (TH) can be found on climber.org.  While driving in on Friday night we saw a strangely long-tailed bobcat running down the road.  Arising in morning revealed a wondrous display of desert lupine all around us.

Amazing Wildflowers  (Photo by Louise)

For many of us, this was our first climb of the season and Saturday, May 10th, found an eager group of 10 climbers at the Sage Flat Trailhead, just south of the town of Olancha, home of the Crystal Geyser water, and Olancha is featured prominently on each bottle.

 On this trip, Bob Suzuki was our co-lead, Susan & Bill Livingston came up from the southland, Rob Rennie, Lance West, Dana Chaney, Vince Chaney, Louise Wholey and Ron Karpel were along for this conditioning hike.

The first 4 miles of the trail follow the creek up the mountain.  There is a stock trail that has a more gradual slope, but it’s about 2 miles longer and higher up in the sun as well. We encountered only small patches of snow on the trail to the pass. The last bit, just before a plateau before the pass, is somewhat steep and there were many trails to follow.  About a mile past the plateau is Olancha pass, which is really just a rise in the trail and is open sagebrush with some pine cover.  Another mile past that point is Summit camp.  We left the TH at 8:15 AM, arrived at camp at 12:15 PM, set up our tents and were on the trail at 1PM. Dana and Vince elected to remain in camp and climb the peak on Sunday.  At this time of  the year, there was running snowmelt at camp, a picnic table and a fire-ring. The trail skirts the eastern edge of summit meadow.  About .25 mile further on, there is a trail junction – left to Monache meadow, right to Gomez meadow – go to the right, and stay on the PCT.  You can get there the other way but it’s longer. 

At this time of year, there was a considerable amount of snow on the trail to Olancha. The trail winds through stands of pine and through sagebrush up a creek to the northwest of Bear Trap meadow, but you won’t see the meadow as it’s over a small ridge.  The trail comes close to a creek that is fed by snowmelt.  This creek was the last water we saw on the trip. The trail was obscured in places by snow, but relatively easy to follow.  It was patchy snow in the shaded areas, but not snow on the SW face of the peak.  At 4:15 PM, we were in sight of the peak (there are a pair of white antennas on top) on the PCT, at waypoint :LV8TRL,36.26018,-118.12616,10602.   At this point, realizing that we would summit around 5:30 and be back in camp after dark, we polled the group and received a positive response on climbing the peak – In other words “Go for it”.  We moved cross country over snow-less Class 2 talus and sand slope to the summit, reaching it between 5:30 and 6:00 PM. The summit yielded fine views, of the Owens valley, Whitney, Langley, Russell and of Monache Peak, a perfectly conical peak above the meadow. After a scant 20 minutes on the summit, we signed in and headed back. Waypoint: OLNCHA,36.26522,-118.11798,12123.

We made good time back to camp, but night fell and we arrived in camp at 9:00 PM. We all had headlamps and on the way back in the meadow, we were treated to what must have been thousands of California chorus frogs (Hyla regilla), a wonderful cacophony of sound.  We roused our tired bodies to a well provisioned Happy Hour with cheese and crackers provided by Susan and a bola of wine provided by Louise, and carried up the mountain by Bob Suzuki.  Next morning, Dana and Vince set out for the peak.  We hiked down to the TH and made the journey home.  Later, we discovered that the pair had successfully summited.  All in all, a great conditioning trip for everyone.

West Face Gully on Mt. Shasta

17th & 18th of May 2008

A Story of Determined Women

And Pink Salmon Boots

By Yoni Novat

There was once a day when men conquered mountains and the women stayed at home and wore pink boots.  Not in the 21st century.  On this trip it seems that, though all of the team did their best, the three women showed determination and at least one of the men wore Pink Salmon boots (that's me!).

Jesper, Victoria, Sandra, Yoni High on Shasta

(Photo by Louise)

George VanGorden led a private trip with eight members up the West Face Gully of Mount Shasta.  We camped at Hidden Valley and climbed the peak on Sunday.  Six of eight members made it to the top of Misery hill and beyond on this warmer than usual day.  Accompanying George was Bill Kirkpatrick, Louise Wholey, Jesper Schou, Sandra Hao, Victoria Junquera, Gabe Graman  and myself (Yoni Novat).

Two themes perhaps characterize this trip.  One theme was that two relatively new climbers, Victoria and Sandra, showed great determination to make their first ascents.  Victoria, then Louise and Jesper climbed the peak under the watchful eye of George, who kept close track of his widely separated group by running up and down the big mountain.  Sandra and Yoni peaked on Misery Hill at a 1:00PM turn around time. The vistas of were magnificent, the sun was bright and a stiff wind blew at the top.  Bill and Gabe climbed to about 12,000 feet before turning back from the altitude. 

The other theme was Yoni's (that's me!) second hand boots.  The color is disputed.  He claimed they are Salmon – a masculine color if there ever was one.  However the consensus was that they were Fuschia or Hot Pink.  What is not disputed, is that they crumbled on the climb to Hidden Valley.  Not to be dissuaded, he lined his feet with plastic, borrowed duct tape and bound the boots together with the crampons.  Only, instead of taking the lead, he took a more conservative pace and kept with Sandra.

All told, the climb was a great success.  It was aided by hot weather that made the climb less threatening to a newcomer and meant 'post-holing' in the afternoon.  There were no injuries and Yoni's boots made it to Bunny Flats, bound up with crampon straps.

Editor’s note:  This hot weekend was spent in a great place!


Backcountry Skiing

Mineral King, May 23, 2008

By Louise Wholey

Various people cancelled for various reasons, leaving only 3 of us, Bruce Berryhill, our Silver City cabin host along with Jim and Louise Wholey.  We drove up to Bruce’s cabin Thursday night avoiding a very large bear sauntering along Mineral King Road.  In the morning we found cloudy skies and a few inches of snow decorating everything.  The road was freshly open for the season, so we drove to the end and parked in about 4 inches of snow.  We carried skis up the trail, expecting to find good snow in White Chief Bowl.  The new snow topped many mini walls of old snow.  Travel was slow and difficult.

Intense Snow in Late May

 We reached the ski bowl where a foot of new snow greeted us at 9600 feet.  Though the snow was heavy we enjoyed skiing it anyway.  At one moment the sun appeared and we actually got a very neat view.

Vandever Peak from White Chief  Bowl


Private Trips

Note: Private trips are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra Club. They are listed here because they may be of interest to PCS members. Private trips may be submitted directly to the editor.

June 21-22, 2008 Ice Axe & Crampon Practice

Peaks:  Mt Dana Glacier [Sat]; Mt Warren (12327', class 2) & Lee Vining Pk (11691', class 2) [Sun]

Difficulty: Class 3-4, ice ax, crampons

Contact: Kelly Maas (408-378-5311, kellylanda@sbcglobal.net)

Assistant:  Needed

Tioga Pass area.  Open to all skill levels.  Saturday: ice axe & crampon training & practice in a controlled environment on the Dana Glacier, which is a couple miles cross country from Tioga Pass.  Previous ice axe & crampon experience is not required, but if you're new to these tools, you should do some reading first.  "Freedom of the Hills" is the mountaineering bible.
Sunday: climb nearby Mt Warren (12327', class 2) and Lee Vining Pk (11691', class 2), which should have outstanding views down to Mono Lake.  Maybe we'll get lucky and see some bighorn sheep.  These peaks are not technical, but may involve some bushwhacking.

July 3-6, 2008 Disappointment (13,917)

Difficulty: Class 4, ice ax, crampons, rope

Contacts: Bob Suzuki (SuzukiR@sd-star.com)

                  Jim Ramaker (ramaker@us.ibm.com)

This is a technical trip requiring a high level of skill.

To avoid holiday traffic we'll leave the Bay Area on Wednesday, and hopefully celebrate July 4 on the summit of  Disappointment Peak.  Experience with ice ax, crampons, rope, and loose rock required for this strenuous class 4 couloir climb. We will drive home Saturday, or possibly climb Middle Palisade.  Permit for 5. 

July 12-13 – Iron Mountain (11,149)

Difficulty: Class 2, ice ax, crampons

Contact: Charles Schafer (c_g_schafer@yahoo.com, 408-354-1545)

Assistant:  Needed

This will be a relatively slow paced, weekend climb of Iron Mountain.  Saturday we’ll hike in via the Beck Lakes trail and we’ll set up camp.  Sunday we’ll climb the peak, and hike out.  We will be using ice axe and crampons so some experience with them will be necessary, but it will not be a difficult climb. 

This region of the Sierra is one of my favorites because of its scenic beauty.  Map is Cattle Mountain 7.5 or Topo!

Aug 16-24, 2008 – Gannett Peak, Wind Rivers, Wyoming

Peaks: Gannett (13804), Fremont (13745), Ellingwood (13052)

Difficulty: Class 3-4, ice ax, crampons

Maps: Bridger Teton NF, Pinedale RD, North WR

Contacts: Bob Suzuki (SuzukiR@sd-star.com),

Tim Hult (timdhult@sbcglobal.net)

From the Elkhart TH (near Pinedale) we'll dash up to Titcomb

Basin with our primary focus on bagging the state highpoint of Gannett. Following easy climbs of Fremont and Jackson, we may try a couple of different routes (cl. 4, 5.6) on Ellingwood Peak.

Ice ax, crampons, recent climbing resume, and confidence required.

Leaders will be driving from SF Bay Area.

Aug 29 - Sept 1, 2008 Clarence King, Gardiner,                 Cotter, & Fin Dome

Difficulty: Class 3-5, rope

Contacts: Bob Suzuki (SuzukiR@sd-star.com)

                  Jim Ramaker (ramaker@us.ibm.com)

This is a technical trip requiring a high level of skill.

To avoid holiday traffic we will leave the Bay Area on Thursday. After a long, strenuous backpack to camp, we will have 2 fairly difficult climbs each day, with short belayed climbing on Clarence King and possibly on Gardiner. If interested please be in very good shape with confidence on class 3 & 4 and with some roped climbing experience.

October, 2008 Kanchenguna –

                                   North and South Base Camp

Contact: Warren Storkman (650-493-8959, dstorkman@aol.com)

This will be a 20 day trek in Nepal.

This is my 30th year leading treks in Nepal and Tibet.  I do not handle any of your funds.  We pay the trip provider in Nepal.


Elected Officials

Chair:
    Lisa Barboza / pcs.chair@lomaprieta.sierraclub.org

    664 Canyon Road, Redwood City, CA 94062-3022

    650/493-8099

Vice Chair and Trip Scheduler:
   
Rod McCalley / rodmccalley@sbcglobal.net

    3489 Cowper St., Palo Alto 94306

    650-493-2378

Treasurer and Membership Roster (address changes):
   
Alex Sapozhnikov / alex.sapozhnikov@intel.com

    4616 Cabrillo, San Francisco, CA, 94121

    415-606-5760

Publicity Committee Positions

Scree Editor:
    Louise Wholey/ screeeditor@gmail.com

    21020 Canyon View Drive, Saratoga, CA 95070

    408-867-6658

PCS World Wide Web Publisher:
    Joe Baker/ pcs@joebaker.us

    1524 Hudson St, Redwood City, CA 94061

    650-261-1488


Scree is the monthly journal of the Peak Climbing Section of the Sierra Club, Loma Prieta Chapter.  Current and back issues are posted on the web in PDF and html.

PCS Official Website

Our official website is http://lomaprieta.sierraclub.org/pcs/.

Joining the PCS is easy: http://lomaprieta.sierraclub.org/pcs/join/

PCS Announcement Listserve

If you join the PCS Announcement Listserv you will receive announcements and updates of trips and meetings. Use http://lists.sierraclub.org/SCRIPTS/WA.EXE?A0=LOMAP-PCS-ANNOUNCE&X=&Y= web page or send an email with the message body "subscribe lomap-pcs-announce" (no quotes) to lists@listserv.sierraclub.org.  

Climbing Classifications

The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing trips for which you are qualified. No simple rating system can anticipate all possible conditions.
    Class 1: Walking on a trail.
    Class 2: Walking cross-country, using hands for balance.
    Class 3: Requires use of hands for climbing, rope may be used.
    Class 4: Requires rope belays.
    Class 5: Technical rock climbing.


Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Monday,  June 23th. Meetings are the second Tuesday of each month.

Peak Climbing Section, 789 Daffodil Way, San Jose CA 95117       

"Vy can't ve chust climb?" - John Salathe                                         First Class Mail - Dated Material