April 2008              Peak Climbing Section, Loma Prieta Chapter, Sierra Club                   Vol. 42 No. 4

http://lomaprieta.sierraclub.org/pcs/


General Meeting

Date:         April 8, 2007

Time:        7:30 pm

Where:      Peninsula Conservation Center                   3921 E. Bayshore Rd.                       Palo Alto, CA

ProgramWind Rivers and Other High Places

Presenter:  Timothy Hult

A photographic journey into Wyoming's Wind River Range with Panoramas of other high places:

Tim Hult will present a photo essay on last summer's climbing attempts in the Wind River Range.

A presentation of panoramas and Natural abstracts from other high and wild places will also be shown (Grand Canyon, Sierra Nevada, New York City!)

Directions:   From 101: Exit at San Antonio Road, go east to the first traffic light, turn left and follow Bayshore Rd to the PCC on the corner of Corporation Way.  A sign marking the PCC is out front. Park and enter in the back of the building.

For a Google map click http://tinyurl.com/28ngaw


Editor’s Notes

Trips:

Because numerous people have showed interest in becoming leaders, I have added the requirements to this issue, taken from the Leadership Handbook.  I you want one of the handbooks, just come to a meeting or contact Lisa PCS chair at pcs.chair@lomaprieta.sierraclub.org or Charles, our Mountaineering Committee chair at 408-354-1545 or  c_g_schafer@yahoo.com.

We are always looking for more trips, especially easier and shorter trips.  Many people who work cannot take days other than Saturday and Sunday.  We are short of trips in June, so if you are a leader or upcoming leader, please generate one or more trips for the section this year.

Although the Sierra Club requires only a basic first aid class, we strongly recommend a full 16 hour Wilderness First Aid class for anyone traveling in the backcountry, not just leaders!

Snow:

There are numerous resources to check snow depths.  Mammoth measures the depth every year.  Here is the site:

http://www.mammothmountain.com/site_common/lib/pastyears.cfm

I just heard that there is still much snow south of Walker Pass, so the desert peaks may not yet be free of snow.

We look forward to good skiing on the Mt. Morgan trip in mid-April.  Another venture into the magnificent bowls of Mineral King comes up over Memorial Day weekend. 

Scree:

Thanks for all your submissions.  It is your newsletter and you get what you put into it!


From the Chair

Lisa Barboza

Happy Spring!

Measuring our progress….

My goal this year is to grow our club – for growth is the best way that I know of to sustain the PCS.  Our 2008 goals are: 50/50/10 - 50 trips, 50 new members, and 10 new leaders.  We have 11 new people who have either attended our meetings, come on a climbing or hiking trip, or just started to hang out with us – And to all of you – Welcome!  We need your ideas, and be sure to sign up for our trips.  Last year we averaged about 20 attendees at our monthly meetings.  This year we had 38 in January, 54 in February, and 34 in March (Yes I do count) for an average of 42 attendees.  In March, Arun regaled us with his incredible slides of his slides of Gagsthang and the Thirot Shivling peaks!

Trips – We had over 40 official and affiliated trips last year and we hope to exceed that this year.   We’re off to a great start in 2008 with 40 trips already planned, and more to come.  We’re hosting an unofficial rock climbing event at the Pinnacles on April 5-6, hosted by Rick Booth, and Jeff Fisher.

Leaders:  We have 3 new leaders in the wings – and I’d like to ask leaders who are no longer leading trips – or those whose Wilderness First Aid has expired – to sign up again and lead a trip.

Publicity:  We started to attend the Loma Prieta Sierra Club New member events and I gave a presentation on March 20th, and generated a significant amount of interest with new Sierra Club members.  These outreach events are important.   We’re also meeting with the Stanford Alpine club in April – There are climbers everywhere who don’t know how to connect with us.

Website:  Our Webmaster, Joe Baker, will soon unveil a new website that automates many of the functions of the webmaster and enables wiki-like participation for club officers, leaders, and members.  It’s pretty cool and I think you’ll like it.

Leader Training: All leaders are required to take OLT 101, a Sierra Club class, by July 2008.  To ‘take’ OLT 101 = ask me for a training book, and read the book.  You’re done!

New leaders must take OLT 201, but existing leaders are exempted.  To make this class easy and fun, we’re going to host a series of weeknight OLT201 classes in May – keep your eye on the website and Scree for upcoming details.

Finally, I’d like to thank our core group of contributors who do so much to make this club run.  Rod McCalley as vice chair, Louise Wholey as Scree Editor, Joe Baker as webmaster, Kelly Maas as training chair, Alex Sapozhnikov as treasurer, and Charles Shafer as mountaineering committee chair are a strong team and I really appreciate all of their, and your, support.  See you at the next meeting or on the trail.


Events

Keep Our State Parks Open

April 15 at 6 pm

Santa Clara County Government Center

70 West Hedding Street

As you probably know, the budget plan released by Governor Schwarzenegger on January 10 calls for closing 48 State Parks, including Henry Coe and Portola Redwoods.  The total savings from all the closures under the most generous assumptions would amount to about a tenth of a percent of the budget deficit. 

On April 15, the State Park and Recreation Commission will be holding a public hearing in San Jose on the proposed Park closures.  The meeting will be in the Board Chambers of the Santa Clara County Government Center at 70 West Hedding Street, starting at 6 pm.  Please plan to attend if possible.  You will have a chance to speak and also to submit written comments. 

See savestateparks.org for much useful information, or email me at johnfw1@mac.com

                                                --John Wilkinson

NOLS Wilderness First Aid

Sat / Sun April 26/27 NOLS offers a Wilderness First Aid Course at Auburn Ski Club on Donner Summit.  Contact Carl at (530) 426-3313 or carlxc@gmail.com

More on NOLS WFI courses can be found at

http://www.nols.edu/wmi/courses/wildfirstaid.shtml

Foster Calm Wilderness First Aid

WFI courses are also offered by Bobbi Foster (a great teacher!) of Foster Calm.  Details and schedules can be found at

http://www.fostercalm.com/wildernessfirstaid.htm


Gear Corner

Stoves For All Seasons

By Frank Martin

The technology of stoves is an evolving process.  2007-08 has brought some new innovations.  Are these really any better?  The 'proof is in the pudding' .

So here we will look at different stoves starting with ultralite Alcohol or Esbit.

Then a look at new school 'vs' old school.

Alcohol Stoves

First the downside.

Some people are very careless with these stove and have started major forest fires.  You spill a few drops of alcohol while filling the stove and then light it and everything goes up at once.  You spill some on your hand and you will have a burning hand.  When you are in an area where there is a fire ban this applies to alcohol stoves as these are considered open flames.

Always store the fuel away from your food.  Alcohol has no friction.  The lids of the storage containers have a magical way of working loose and leaking.  Be aware.

Different designs of stoves work with different pot or cups.  Some are side burners and if the cup is too small the flames go up the sides and the energy is wasted.  Luckily there are many designs so make sure you have one that fits your pot or cup.

There are a million of these designs on the web.  All with detailed instructions on how to make them yourself.  These are the favorites of the thru-hikers be it the AT, CDT or PCT.

They are light and the fuel is readily available.  You pretty much know from the start how much fuel you will need each day. Denatured Alcohol which is available from any hardware store is the primary fuel used but you can also use Everclear or for easy re-supply use HEET which is available at any gas station or Mini-Mart.  Most people use these stoves just to boil water (which they do quite well).  The boiling water is then added to a measured meal in a freezer bag and then places in an insulated cozy for about 5-10 minutes.

There are hundreds of different versions of these stove on the web.  A few stovemakers have taken them to the next level with more detailed designs.

Here are a few.

http://traildesigns.com/products01.html

Some Brasslite Models come with a 'simmer ring'.  This actually allows you to slow the burning process once the water is boiling.  In theory you could cook a meal with this design.

http://www.brasslite.com/

http://www.minibulldesign.com/fs2.htm

Esbit Stoves

Esbit is a solid fuel cube.  They tend to smell when burning.  Many people use them.

This system is interesting using a beer can as a cookpot in a system.  Again MOST people don't cook food in the beercan but just heat water.

http://tinyurl.com/c9ktw

White Gas Stoves

Advantages

Great for melting snow.  For multiple day winter trips you can monitor your fuel usage day by day.

Simple to use.

Most of the new stoves work on a variety of fuels and can be used almost anywhere in the world.

Disadvantages

I think that people tend to use old fuel which can cause clogging problems.  Whichever stove you choose know how to service it in the field..

Heavy.

Favorites

Well everybody has his or her own favorite.

Svea 123

http://www.pbase.com/mad_monte1/image/57053282

Optimus Svea

http://www.optimus.se/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=55&Itemid=98

MSR XGK Expedition

http://www.msrgear.com/stoves/xgkex.asp

Optimus Nova

This one also simmers.

http://www.optimus.se/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=13&Itemid=32

And of course the Whisperlite

http://www.msrgear.com/stoves/whisperlite.asp

Canister Stoves

Advantages

Lite and Compact

Disadvantages

Possibility of running out of fuel

Lots of new lite compact stand alone stoves on the market.

Here is a good list

http://tinyurl.com/rlpgk

Finally the 'new tech' canister stove systems.

This trend started with the intro of the Jetboil PCS Stove in 2004

http://www.jetboil.com/Products

Basically an integrated system with pot, lid, cozy, and heat exchanger

Hey if you need coffee you can get a coffee press.

I bought one at an REI Garage sale for $30.00.  Aside from being a bit heavy it is easy to use and very efficient in the use of fuel.  I still use it on trips where I do not have to melt snow.  It works well in the wind and boils water fast.

The newest technology is the long awaited MSR Reactor Stove.  After several productions problems the stove hit the shelves in late 2007.

http://www.msrgear.com/stoves/reactor.asp

A little more stove than I need.  A but bulky and heavy but it has its fans.  Would melt snow quite well but again the question of just how much fuel to bring .

Here is a demo video of the MSR and Primus Eta Power.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34EMehx1XHQ

Johnny O

http://tinyurl.com/2t8jnu

Notes

Sierra Club Leader Requirements

In response to the interest from numerous people wishing to be trip leaders, here are the details from the Sierra Club outings extranet website, username clubhouse, password explore.

http://clubhouse.sierraclub.org/outings/common/handbook_2007.pdf

The leader of any Sierra Club Outing must…

.  Be a Sierra Club member.

.  Be at least 18 years of age.

.  Have First Aid certification equivalent to or higher than American Red Cross Basic.

.  Complete the Outings Leader Training - Basic ("OLT 101") or comparable training from local outings Entity. If OLT 101 is not available, then the leader must complete the OLT 101 curriculum on his or her own.

.  Have outing participant skills appropriate for the activities of the trip towards the advanced end of the scale.

.  Provisionally Lead at least one outing and receive a positive evaluation by the Mentor Leader.

.  Receive approval to lead outings from the Outing Chair or delegated authority of the Entity sponsoring the outing.

In addition the leader of an outing that includes an overnight stay away from cars (Level 2) must…

.  Successfully complete the Outings Leader Training Workshop (which includes OLT 101 and OLT 201) or comparable OLT 201 training from local outings Entity. If participation in OLT 201 cannot be arranged, then the leader must complete the following portion of the OLT 201 curriculum on his or her own: Safety Management Planning, Trip Planning, Interpersonal Leadership, and Group Management (effective on September 1, 2006 for new leaders since March 1, 2006).

.  Provisionally Lead at least one outing that includes an overnight stay away from cars and receive a positive evaluation by the Mentor Leader.

Exceptions for Existing Leaders

.  At the discretion of the Entity outing chair, persons considered by the Entity to be currently qualified outing leaders as of the date of the enactment of this policy may be initially exempted from the requirement to Provisionally Lead and from the requirement to take OLT101 and OLT 201 or comparable training. However, such persons must meet all the other requirements of this policy, including the first aid. Further, four years after the date of the enactment of this policy (July 1, 2008), such persons must meet all currency requirements.

Currency

Every four years from the date a leader first met all requirements to lead an outing, regardless of level, OLT 101 must be refreshed and any lapsed first aid certifications must be renewed. Further, if a leader has not led a trip at a given level in the previous four years, then the leader must repeat the requirement to Provisionally Lead at that level or higher before leading an outing at the given level, or otherwise satisfy the Entity outing chair that the leader continues to possess the requisite skills.

Level 1 Outings Leader Requirements:

1. Be a current Sierra Club member - Must be current

2. Be at least 18 years old

3. First Aid - Renew every four years

4. Complete OLT 101 - Renew every four years

5. Demonstrate skills appropriate to type of trip

6. Provisionally lead an Outing with positive feedback - Redo after having not led in the last four years

7. Receive chair approval

Additional Level 2 Outings Leader Requirements:

1. Complete OLT 201 - Must complete only once

2. Provisionally lead an overnight outing away from cars with positive feedback - Redo after having not led in the last four years
PCS Trip Calendar

Apr 11-13 – Mt. Morgan (N)

Leader: Louise Wholey

Apr 19-20 Sawtooth (S) and Owens Peaks

Leader: Charles Schafer

Apr 26-27 – Crag Peak and Smith Mountain

Leader: Lisa Barboza

May 3-4 - Siretta (9977) and Taylor (8802)
Leader:
Lisa Barboza

May 9-11 - Olancha (12123)
Leader:
Lisa Barboza

May 23-26 – Mineral King Backcountry Skiing
Leader:
Louise Wholey

May 30- June 1 – Grand Canyon of the Tuloumne
Leader:
Kelly Maas

May 30- June 1 – Striped, Cardinal, Goodale
Leader:
Louise Wholey

June 7-8 - Dunderberg, Excelsior

Leader: Lisa Barboza

June 13-15 - Eisen, Lippincott (Mineral King)

Leader: Lisa Barboza

Private Trips Summary

Important: Private trips are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra Club. They are listed here because they may be of interest to PCS members. Private trips may be submitted directly to the Scree editor.  Details on these trips follow the trip reports. In this issue.

April 5-6, 2008 – Pinnacles

May 2-11, 2008 – High Sierra Ski and Climb trip

May 3-4, 2008 – Mt. Hood

May 17-18, 2008 – Mt. Shasta

May 23-27, 2008 – Thompson, Powell, Wallace

October, 2008 Trek Around Manaslu


PCS Trip Details

Mt. Morgan (N)

Peak:      Mt. Morgan (N), class 2, ski mountaineering
Dates:     Apr 11-13
Leader:   Louise Wholey (louisewholey@yahoo.com)
Co-Leader: Lisa Barboza (pcs.chair@lomaprieta.sierraclub.org)

This is the ultimate backcountry skiing - ski mountaineering in the High Sierra.  TH is Rock Creek if open, else Hilton creek.  Ski to base of peak, snow camp, ski up and down peak, snow camp, ski out.  Requires advanced skiing skills, avalanche training.  Randonee or Telemark skis, climbing skis, avalanche beacon, shovel, and probe required.  Expect a hedonistic experience.  Limit 6.

Sawtooth (S) and Owens Peaks

Peaks:     Sawtooth (S) (7970) and Owens Peak (8453)
Date :       Apr 19-20
Leader:   Charles Schafer (c_g_schafer@yahoo.com)

Car camp at Walker Pass and climb these peaks in the far southern Sierra.  Pace will be slow.  Beginners welcome.

Crag Peak and Smith Mountain

Peaks:     Crag Peak (9480+) and Smith Mountain (9533)
Dates:     Apr 26-27
Leader:   Lisa Barboza (pcs.chair@lomaprieta.sierraclub.org)

These far southern Sierra class 3+ and class 2 climbs involve off-trail bushwhacking.  Car camp in the Kennedy Meadows area.

Siretta (9977) and Taylor (8802)

Peaks:     Siretta (9977) and Taylor (8802)
Date:        May 3-4
Leader:   Lisa Barboza (pcs.chair@lomaprieta.sierraclub.org)

Join us for car camping in the Big Meadow in the Southern Sierra.  Enjoy wildflowers, satisfying climbs, and early spring fun. Siretta is suitable for beginners (CL1) and Taylor will require intermediate skills (CL3).  Drive Friday and return Sunday, climb Saturday.

Olancha (12123)

Peaks:     Olancha (12123)
Dates:     May 9-11
Leader:   Lisa Barboza (pcs.chair@lomaprieta.sierraclub.org)

Trailhead is Sage Flat 5770, 1 night backpack over Olancha Pass 9130, to climb Olancha, EL 12,123.  Camp near Bear Trap Meadow; be prepared for snow.  Bonus Peak: Dayhike Cartago if we have time.  Send email with conditioning and recent experience.

Mineral King Backcountry Skiing

Peaks:     Florence, Vandever, and Sawtooth
Dates:     May 23-26
Leader:   Louise Wholey (louisewholey@yahoo.com)

The bowls of Mineral King have been coveted for commercial development for years.  Now is a chance to visit them and their accompanying peaks for great spring skiing.  Stay in Silver City (make your own arrangement) and do day trips on one or more days over this long Memorial Day weekend.  See Paul Richins book Ski and Snowboard Summits for details on skiing Florence, Vandever and Sawtooth.

Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne

Peaks:     Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne
Dates:     May 30-June 1
Leader:   Kelly Maas

Details coming...

Striped, Cardinal, Goodale

Peaks:     Striped, Cardinal, Goodale
Dates:     May 30-June 1
Leader:   Louise Wholey (louisewholey@yahoo.com)

Spring is a great time to access many beautiful peaks from the lower trailheads in the Sierra.  This trip is an ambitious attempt to climb all three peaks after a long approach.  Excellent physical condition and experience peak climbing is required.  May need skis if snow.

Dunderberg, Excelsior

Peaks:     Dunderberg, Excelsior
Dates:      June 7-8
Leader:   Lisa Barboza (pcs.chair@lomaprieta.sierraclub.org)

Details coming...

Eisen, Lippincott (Mineral King)

Peaks:     Eisen, Lippincott (Mineral King)
Dates:      June 13-15
Leader:   Lisa Barboza (pcs.chair@lomaprieta.sierraclub.org)

Details coming...


Trip Reports

Mount Sizer

Henry Coe State Park

March 15, 2008

By Yoni Novat

Fourteen  hardy souls met for a day hike in Henry Coe State Park to enjoy its' special landscapes at this dark hour of budget cuts.  It was a joint trip with the Peak Climbing Section (led by Landa) and Day Hiking Section that would begin at the Coe Ranch Headquarters and work across some canyons to the top of Mt Sizer (3216 ft). 

We left the Headquarters at 9:10 and worked our way north on the Flat Frog Trail then on Hobbs Road to the Blue Ridge Road.  It is an incredible 1500 feet elevation gain in 1.3 miles (a 22% grade!) from Coyote Creek to the Blue Ridge.  Once on the ridge, we caught our first glimpse of devastation.  Whole hillsides had been charred by last years' fire.  We could still smell the ashes.  The land was springing back to life though.  Poison Oak was one of the first to sprout.  The wild flowers included Western Hounds Toung, Indian Warrior, Star Lily, Lowland and Woodland Shooting Stars,  White Baby Blue Eyes, Wild Cucumber and many others.

On top of mount Sizer(~12:30PM), we ate lunch and  partook of such delicacies as fudge cake and chocolates (thanks to Landa and Bob).  The weather turned out to be ideal.  We had the pleasure of tiny hail which did not get us wet.  The light cast through the clouds was wonderful on this sometimes sunny hike 

The return loop took us down Blue Ridge Road to b, then up the Middle Ridge and Fish Trails.  There were great photo opportunities that some of our group seized upon.  Once back at the Ranch (~5:15PM) we enjoyed some of Mary's Salsa (without chips) and beverages to slake our thirst.  It was a tough trip that was handled well by all. 

Many thanks to Landa for making such a great hike possible.


Mountains without Scree (or Talus)!

Backcountry Ski Series #4

Mar 21, 2008

By Jim Wholey

Tinkers Knob

Near the summit

A typical descent  - no scree or talus

A great day was had by all!

Who dunit and How

By Louise Wholey

The Tinkers Knob trip was enjoyed by Helga Zimmerman, Barbara Munker, Yu Sato, James Rosen, Jim Wholey and Louise Wholey, leader.  The day was beautiful, the snow was great, and the scenery outstanding.  We could see all the way to Sierra Buttes!  We began around 9 am just beyond the Donner Lake interchange on Hwy 80, driving past the Holiday Inn Express to the overnight parking for the Lost Trail Lodge. 

The route would be about 14 miles of skiing if we went by the most direct route along the summer trail.  The first 4 miles lead up only about 300 feet to the lodge where the above enormous bear-sized dog lay rather pretty and friendly. 

From there the route climbed along the South Fork of the Coldstream Creek.  The lead skiers chose to go straight up to the crest of the ridge rather than try to find the convoluted summer trail.  This worked well for everyone except Yu.  Jim helped her apply at least 4 coatings of Glop Stopper to her skins.  They were still sticky.  We developed a theory that she had made a side trip to Norway and picked up some klister, the Norwegian word for glue!

Skiing along the ridge was one of the most scenic tours I have done.  While we still had 1000 feet to climb mostly at the summit end of it, most of it was covered with delightful wintery snow and the view of Tinkers definitely kept us going.  We reached the base of Tinkers shortly after 3 pm.  Yu was the trouper who got us to climb it, though it looked like very slippery steep ice but turned out to be quite easy and took all of 5-10 minutes.

We enjoyed a much more direct route back to the lodge, skiing numerous bowls of both good and somewhat tricky crusty snow.

For the Wholeys this was the start of yet another ski trip as we had signed up for the Lost Trail Lodge weekend with Gary and Ingrid Apter of the SF chapter Backcountry Ski Section.  The trip was to celebrate their 39 years of marriage!  We had great company, superb food, marvelous entertainment and wonderful skiing from high on the Pacific Crest above the lodge.

David and Rene whooping it up


Gardner and Cotter, Sep 14-16, 2008

By Daryn Dodge

Report originally published at http://climber.org/TripReports/2007/1630.html.

This climbing trip to Mt. Gardiner and Mt. Cotter was originally planned for four days, but went so well with a shorter, faster approach that we were out after only three.

We started at the Onion Valley trailhead at 7:45 am, hiking over Kearsarge Pass, and then on towards Glen Pass. Some of us were quite miffed to find the east side of Kearsarge Pass had been re-designed by a trail crew within the last 3 months. The original trail on the east side of Kearsarge Pass was rather steep, the new trail has several more switchbacks to lessen the steepness. Our displeasure with the new trail was that the steepness was lessened so much (for the horses?) that it felt flat, sometimes actually going back uphill in the downhill direction, resulting in needless extra walking.

Rather than go over Glen Pass to get to 60 Lake Basin, where we planned set up camp for both peaks, Steve was campaigning to try a short-cut to the peaks that avoided going over Glen Pass. Steve has suggested short-cuts before...some worked well, some did not, and others we blew off when we actually saw the ugly terrain involved. My first thought was it looked possible on the map, and could shave considerable time off our approach route, but we needed to see what the terrain is like when we got close.

This short-cut called for us to leave the Glen Pass trail just as it turned east towards the pass, at about the 3360 m contour line on the 7.5 min map (waypoint CHARC1). Heading NW, drop into a bowl (waypoint CHARC2) and climb up out of the other side (waypoint CHARC3), then side-hill for about 2/3 of a mile continuing NW to an unnamed pass at 3640+ m (waypoint CHACOL). (See map and waypoints below.)

When we got to the designated jump-off point of the trail, the terrain for this short-cut really did not look too bad, at least the part we could see. Considering it already took us about 6 hours to get this far, there was little hope of reaching even the base of Mt. Cotter via the Glen Pass trail. The short-cut appeared to shave off some elevation gain and a few miles. It was unanimous; we would try the short-cut. The first part, dropping into and climbing out of the bowl, went fast. We then side-hilled to the unnamed pass (NW from waypoint CHARC3), which involved in the middle of this section a quarter-mile of rather loose, tedious sand and rock. The loose side-hilling tried the patience of most of us, but was over soon enough, with the last 1/3 mile of side-hilling to the pass being easy.

This pass (waypoint CHACOL) is not mentioned in Secor's climbing guide and there was no evidence anyone had been here before, so we gave it the name Charlotte Col, as it provides a straightforward connection between Charlotte Lake and the upper 60 Lake Basin.


Photo 1. View to the north from Charlotte Col. Lake 3435 is in the foreground and Mt. Cotter dominates the horizon.

To drop down into the 60 Lake Basin, we took the first major chute east of the low point of Charlotte Col. The first 200 feet was steep and loose, so we went one-at-a-time through a few sections. The remainder of the descent to Lake 3435 was rocky, but not difficult. We skirted around Lake 3435 on its east side, then hiked to the next unnamed lake in the drainage and camped on some flat rocks on the north side of the lake (waypoint CAMP1). We were now in great position to climb both Mt. Gardiner and Mt. Cotter tomorrow.

The next morning we hiked over 60 Lake Col and up the huge east face of Mt. Gardiner. Secor's guidebook (2nd ed.) appears to refer to this slope as the northeast chute, but looks more like a big scree slope almost due east of the summit. Once on the slope, Lisa and I took the middle, which had loose scree in places. Steve, Susan and John worked up steep slabs on the left side of the chute. We all met just below a small pinnacle near the SE ridge of Mt. Gardiner. Easy climbing around the right side of this pinnacle got us on the ridge within 100 feet of Gardiner's south summit. This approach to the south summit looked steep from 60 Lakes Col, but proved to be only class 2.


Photo 2. Mt. Gardiners' knife-edge ridge as viewed from the lower south summit. The line represents our approximate route, with the dashed line portion indicating the route is on the other side of the ridge.

From the south summit, we dropped down along the ridge to the low notch, and then worked up towards the north summit, which is true the high point. Steve, Lisa and I took turns setting up one belay station each along the ridge in the more difficult sections, but most of the group climbed to the summit without protection. If one can ignore the large exposure, the climbing was only class 3 in difficulty, with one short climb up a dihedral near the summit that probably goes class 4. Typically, the one climber in our group that frequents a climbing gym scoffed at the notion that any part of the ridge went more than class 3. We dropped below the ridge on the north side when the ridge became more knife-edged, then worked back up to the ridge at the top of the short class 4 dihedral move. From here it was exposed, but easy, class 3 the final 20 feet to the summit.


Photo 3. Nearing the summit: Steve reaching the ridgeline to set up a belay station, with Lisa and Susan traversing below the ridge on one the more difficult sections of the climb.


Photo 4. Mt. Gardiner high point. From left to right, Steve and Susan on the summit, John almost there, and Lisa managing the belay station.

Our main climbing gear consisted of a 110 foot, 7.1 mm rope and several slings. This was all we needed, as there were plenty of rock horns to throw slings over. The knife-edge run to the summit went faster than expected and was quite fun for those who enjoy this sort of climbing. A nice diagram of the knife-edge traverse to the summit can be found in the July 1985 issue of the SPS Echo.

We retraced our route off the summit ridge after a nice 45 minute stay, and plunged-stepped through the scree down the east face. At the bottom, Steve and Susan headed back to camp. Both had already climbed Mt. Cotter. Susan was planning to relax at camp while Steve wanted to do a half-day loop trip through the Rae Lakes Basin. T he plan was to re-group with Steve later that evening near the 60 Lake trail, about one mile north of our current camp.

Lisa, John and I headed for Mt. Cotter's south ridge. Once on the ridge, we stayed mostly on the western side. We went right back on top of the south ridge at the summit blocks where the crux of the climb, a class 2-3 move, leads to the top. The register showed that Scott Sullivan had summited Cotter just two weeks before us; it was his 244th SPS peak with only 4 more to go. We descended back to camp via Cotter's southeast face and began packing up.

The one mile hike to the 60 Lake Trail went well except for the 150 foot climb up and over a buttress that blocked easy walking a round the west shore of Lake 3304...awfully tedious after a two-peak day. It looked possibly easier to skirt around the east shore of Lake 3304, but would still involve some steep climbing above its southeast shore. We set up camp (waypoint CAMP2) near our pre-arranged meeting spot, for which we had exchanged GPS coordinates before splitting up. Steve showed up just before dark about 30 min after we got there. He followed the trail to the southern lake and down-canyon to Arrowhead Lake, then turned up a nice cross-country route (the northern purple line on the map below, basically as described in Secor's book) to re-join the Sixty Lakes Basin trail.

We broke camp at 7:30 am and hiked out over Rae Col, then over Glen Pass, and then finally Kearsarge Pass back to our cars in Onion Valley. On our way up to Rae Col, we had a wonderful view of a Bighorn Sheep trotting across the mountainside. We had some discussion as to which low spot in the ridge was the real Rae Col, as there are two choices to go over this ridge. We chose the more northeastern one because it looked easier. About 200 feet below the Col we joined a sandy use trail that took us to the pass. Descending the south side to the Glen Pass trail went quickly, although there is no continuation of the use trail on the south side of Rae Col. We reached the cars before 4 pm and soon said our goodbyes...but not before making plans for the next mountaineering trip!

Route map and waypoints (in Waypoint+ format) are below:

Datum,North America 1983,GRS 80,0,-1.6E-7,0,0,0
 
Waypoint,D,CHARCD, 
36.7832499743,-118.4353833199,11/15/2007,02:54:34,CHARLOTTE COL DESCENT ROUTE
Waypoint,D,CHARC1, 
36.7843500376,-118.4215667248,11/15/2007,02:54:04,LEAVE THE TRAIL
Waypoint,D,CHARC2, 
36.7860833406,-118.4233833551,11/07/2007,03:37:45,GO BELOW A BUTTRESS
Waypoint,D,CHARC3, 
36.7889499664,-118.4240499735,11/07/2007,03:37:45,TOP OF THE CHUTE
Waypoint,D,CHACOL, 
36.7947666645,-118.4329832792,11/07/2007,03:37:45,CHARLOTTE COL 11900
Waypoint,D,CAMP1, 
36.8050700426,-118.4357899427,11/07/2007,03:37:45,
Waypoint,D,60LCOL,
 36.8044599295,-118.4413499832,11/07/2007,03:37:47,
Waypoint,D,GARDIM, 
36.8061499596,-118.4591900110,11/07/2007,03:37:54,
Waypoint,D,COTTEM, 
36.8188899755,-118.4417300224,11/07/2007,03:37:53,
Waypoint,D,CAMP2,
 36.8150899410,-118.4254800081,11/07/2007,03:38:04,
Waypoint,D,RAECOL, 
36.7991340160,-118.4148395061,11/07/2007,03:38:02,
Waypoint,D,GLENPS, 
36.7894899845,-118.4115799665,11/07/2007,03:37:54,
 

View a larger map at http://climber.org/TripReports/2007/1630.html.
Private Trips

Note: Private trips are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra Club. They are listed here because they may be of interest to PCS members. Private trips may be submitted directly to the editor.

April 5-6, 2008 Pinnacles

Contact: Rick Booth (rwdbooth@gmail.com) or

Jeff Fisher (jeff_fisher_5252@sbcglobal.net)

Hike, Bike, and Climb at Pinnacles National Monument.

Come to the interesting and popular Pinnacles National Monument for a Spring trip.  A group camp site has been reserved at the campground for Saturday night, April 5.  This is a great area where you can hike, bike or rock climb.  Plenty of good hiking and road biking.  This is a private trip, no rock climbing instruction is available so be prepared to operate on your own.

May 2-11, 2008 High Sierra Ski and Climb trip

Contact: Louise Wholey (louisewholey@yahoo.com)

Skiing the High Sierra Route is great fun.  For a peak bagger, however, it is tough to pass so many peaks without climbing them.  For a skier, bowls beckon everywhere, but the need to reach the trailhead on the far side over-rides the desire to just plain ski.  This trip is for advanced skiers and mountaineers.  Trailheads, peaks, and route will be determined by the group.

May 3-4, 2008 Mt. Hood   11,239 ft

Contact: Tim Hult (650-966-2215)

Mt Hood. Oregon High Point, 11,239 ft, "South Side" route.  Our group will leave the Bay Area via air on 5/2 to Portland with "rough accommodations" at "base camp" at the base of this marquee mountain of Oregon. Saturday we will check in with the Rangers and position ourselves for an early morning (1am) start at "advanced base camp." After a long night of restful sleep we will wake at 12am and be off from our camp at 1 am with the goal of summiting Oregon's high point shortly after sunrise.  Downclimb from the mountain and a flight home late Sunday complete this whorl-wind state high point bid. Due to the necessity of making reservations and other travel plans, attendees should contact the trip leader ASAP.   Work Telephone: 650-966-2215. 

Participants MUST have experience with ice axe and crampon roped travel on mixed terrain (no beginners!)  Recent prior altitude experience (sleeping at 7 - 9k feet) is preferred.  Comfort with traveling on headlamps for an extended period in marginal weather & terrain is also required.  Equipment required: headlamp suitable for wide area navigation (not a reading / camp light), crampons, glacier travel boots, warm clothes with wind block ability, ice axe, rope, harness.  This is NOT a "guided" trip, and a liability release will be required. Ref. web site: http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/150189/mount-hood.html


May 17-18, 2008 Mt. Shasta   14160 feet

Contact: George Van Gorden (vangordeng321@AOL.com)

We will climb Mt. Shasta by the West Face gully.  This route is very beautiful and only a little more difficult that Avalanche Gulch.  We will climb up to our camp in Hidden Valley at about 9500 feet on Sat. and climb the mountain on Sunday and return to our cars before darkness.  Experience with ice axe and crampons is required including some instruction in self-arrest.

October, 2008 Trek Around Manaslu

Contact: Warren Storkman (650-493-8959, dstorkman@aol.com)

Manaslu 26,658 is the world’s eighth highest peak.  My last visit was in 1992 an area of lush deep valleys.  We will be in the highlands, and remote villages that are around Manaslu

This is my 30th year leading treks in Nepal and Tibet.  I do not handle any of your funds.  We pay the trip provider in Nepal.


Elected Officials

Chair:
    Lisa Barboza / pcs.chair@lomaprieta.sierraclub.org

    664 Canyon Road, Redwood City, CA 94062-3022

    650/493-8099

Vice Chair and Trip Scheduler:
   
Rod McCalley / rodmccalley@sbcglobal.net

    3489 Cowper St., Palo Alto 94306

    650-493-2378

Treasurer and Membership Roster (address changes):
   
Alex Sapozhnikov / alex.sapozhnikov@intel.com

    4616 Cabrillo, San Francisco, CA, 94121

    415-606-5760

Publicity Committee Positions

Scree Editor:
    Louise Wholey/ screeeditor@gmail.com

    21020 Canyon View Drive, Saratoga, CA 95070

    408-867-6658

PCS World Wide Web Publisher:
    Joe Baker/ pcs@joebaker.us

    1524 Hudson St, Redwood City, CA 94061

    650-261-1488


Scree is the monthly journal of the Peak Climbing Section of the Sierra Club, Loma Prieta Chapter.
Our official website is http:// lomaprieta.sierraclub.org/pcs/

Email List Info

If you are on the official email list (lomap-pcs-announce@lists.sierraclub.org) or  the email list the PCS feeds (pcs-issues@climber.org), you have a free EScree subscription. For email list details, send "info lomap-pcs-announce" to "listserv@lists.sierraclub.org", or send anything to "info@climber.org". EScree subscribers should send a subscription form to the Treasurer to become voting PCS members at no charge. The Scree is on the web as both plain text and fully formatted Adobe Acrobat/PDF.

Climbing Classifications

The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing trips for which you are qualified. No simple rating system can anticipate all possible conditions.
    Class 1: Walking on a trail.
    Class 2: Walking cross-country, using hands for balance.
    Class 3: Requires use of hands for climbing, rope may be used.
    Class 4: Requires rope belays.
    Class 5: Technical rock climbing.


Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Monday,  April 28th. Meetings are the second Tuesday of each month.

Peak Climbing Section, 789 Daffodil Way, San Jose CA 95117        

"Vy can't ve chust climb?" - John Salathe                                         First Class Mail - Dated Material