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June, 2007                                                    Peak Climbing Section, Loma Prieta Chapter, Sierra Club                         Vol. 41 No. 6

World Wide Web Address:  http://lomaprieta.sierraclub.org/pcs/

 


General Meeting

 

Date:           June 12, 2007

Time:          7:30 pm

Where:        Peninsula Conservation Center

                    3921 E. Bayshore Rd.

                    Palo Alto, CA

Program:    Nepal

Presenter Chris Prendergast

 

Follow Chris, Eric and Fred on their October 2006 journey from Katmandu to Mera Peak in Nepal's Solo Kumbu.  At over 21,000 feet Mera is Nepal's highest trekking peak with great views of Everest from the summit.  Meet the local monks and Maoists and enjoy the icy scenery in this slide show covering the 14-day trek.

 

Directions:   From 101: Exit at San Antonio Road, go east to the first traffic light, turn left and follow Bayshore Rd to the PCC on the corner of Corporation Way.  A sign marking the PCC is out front. Park behind.

 

 

Gear Corner

 

For Sale

 

Osprey Ariel 75.  A great pack for extended outings or for carrying fifth class climbing gear for a week.  Lots of neat features.  Used twice.  Curve does not fit my back’s (hunchback) contour - 5 pounds, 4600 in3.  

Louise Wholey (louisewholey@yahoo.com, 408-867-6658)


 

Backpacks

 

By Frank Martin, PCS Equipment Guru (sriprank@yahoo.com)

 

A proper fitting backpack is perhaps the most important piece of gear for any type of trip be it backpacking or Peak Bagging.  A backpack that doesn't fit can just make for a miserable painful trip.  I think a lot of people quit these activities after one trip just because they have the wrong pack.  I often feel the outfitters that sell these packs are to blame. As backpacks evolved and added features they got heavier and heavier.  They added more zippers and more suspension features.  There are backpacks out there today they weigh over nine pounds.  The result was that people filled these packs with excess gear.

 

The rule of thumb is to assemble your gear before you purchase a pack. The maximum load that most of these packs can handle is 30 pounds and this includes food and water. Work on reducing the weight of your shelter, sleeping bag and insulation layers then choose your pack.  The next question is that are you going to be carrying a bear canister and how will this fit in the pack.  It should always fit inside the pack not strapped to the outside. 

 

 

Ultra-Light backpacks started as a cottage industry.  They have evolved to the mainstream.  When they first hit the scene they were the objects of ridicule by the gear makers and old-school backpackers.  The users were dismissed as 'gram weenies' and meant for people who cut their toothbrushes in half.  Now the major gear makers are playing catch up.

 

There is an excellent Yahoo Group called Backpacking Light.  This group was formed in December 1998 with two original members.  Presently it has over 5400.  This represents a lot of buying power.

 

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BackpackingLight/

 

The first part of this article will deal with UL Backpacks.  Peak Bagging and Mountaineering certainly presents challenges to going UL due to different classes of climbing.  There will always be certain situations where an Expedition pack is a necessity.  There are other situations where you need to lash tools and carry ropes.  However for most Class 2 and moderate 3 Peaks there is no need to carry a heavy pack.  The ideal situation is when your backpack is also your Summit pack.

 

One of the main complaints about the 'cottage industry' packs is that there is no way to try them before you use them. They are sold through their websites only.  People end up buying more than one then resell the others.  Generally there is no return policy. The various models change from year to year mostly as a result of user input.  The fact that these people actually listen to feedback is great.

 

A great place to review these packs or any gear for that matter is

 

 

http://www.backpackgeartest.org/

 

 

UL Cottage Industry Packs

 

http://www.gossamergear.com/cgi-bin/gossamergear/pack_matrix.html

 

Really make a wide range of packs.  I use a G-5 for fastpacking.  It is very fragile.  The Mariposa has been a reliable pack for many thru-hikers.  The newly developed Mariposa Plus made of a more durable material seems to be a new favorite.

 

http://www.ula-equipment.com/philosophy.htm#

 

 

On this site you will have to view the various packs individually.  These packs more closely resemble a 'traditional pack' than the other cottage industry packs.  For many this is a good place to start.  You more or less can design your own pack but can become quite expensive.  This is the second generation of ULA packs.  They are excellent packs.

 

 

http://www.sixmoondesigns.com/products/PackCompare.asp

 

These pack fall in between the Gossamer gear and ULA. I have a 2006 Starlite that I purchased from a gear swap.  It is 'frameless' and has an insert for you sleeping pad to create a frame.  It has quite a lot of volume and several large mesh pockets.  I have used this on non-technical snow camping trips.  It does have a basic gear loop and shockcord but is not really set up for a lot of tools.  I use this also when I backpack with my wife as it handles any type of bear canister.  It is a very durable pack for the weight.

 

A lot of traditional packmakers have made stabs at the UL market including Gregory and REI.  Others like Mountainsmith have come and gone.  I think some of the best packs have come from Granite Gear.  They seem to be in it for the long run and have a broad range of packs including women specific packs and have started developing lighter Expedition packs in their "Access fz" series of packs.

 

 

http://www.granitegear.com/products/backpacks/index.html

 

The Vapor Trail has been a favorite of UL backpackers for years.  They followed with the Vapor Ki a women's version. Now they are addressing the needs of climbers with

The Alpine Vapor.

http://www.campsaver.com/product.php?cid=183&pid=625270p

 

One more manufacture I will include is Golite.

 

http://www.golite.com/product/product1.aspx?e=8&mc=5&s=1

 

http://www.golite.com/product/product1.aspx?e=8&mc=5&s=2

 

 

 

They make a lot of different packs and their models change from year to year. As the models change the older ones are deeply discounted.  They put a lot of features into their packs such as gear loops, daisy chains and lashings.  They solve a common problem making a durable technical pack that will hold a bear canister.  The majority of their packs are not meant for loads over 30 pounds.

 

I purchased a new Golite Speed last year on Ebay for $50.00.   Despite having a bunch of other packs I end up going back to this one for many different types of trips. I have really abused this pack and still there are no signs of wear.  It can hold an ice axe, crampons and helmet.

 

http://www.backpacker.com/article/1,2646,5385,00.html

 

 

There are 1000's of backpacks on the market and in this article it is impossible to give all their proper due.  This is only meant to be an introduction to the UL options that are available.  Many times I have passed hikers with UL packs but traditional heavy gear.  This is the 'worst of both worlds'.  It is painful to watch.

 

Have fun!!!

2006-2007 PCS Trip Calendar

 

 

June 9-10 – Sonora/Leavitt Day Hike & Car Camp

Leader: Lisa Barbosa

 

June 16-17 – Cirque and Muah Day Hike & Car Camp

Leader: Lisa Barbosa

 

June 23-24 – Iron Mtn

Leader: Charles Schafer

 

June 30 - July 1 – Mt. Russell

Leader: Stephane Mouradian

 

July 2-5 – Thompson, Powell, Wallace

Leader: Lisa Barboza

 

July 6-7 – Langley

Leader: Stephane Mouradian

 

July 12-15 - Mount Williamson 14275, Tyndall 14018

Leader: Jeff Fisher

 

July 20-24 – Red 11699, Gray 11573, Merced 11726

Leader: Lisa Barboza

 

July TBD – White Mt. (day hike)

Leader: Jeff Fisher

 

July TBD – Split Mt. (day hike)           

Leader: Jeff Fisher

 

July 27-29 – Mt. Emerson, Pilot Knob

Leader: Charles Shafer

 

July 27-30 – Piute 10541, Petit 10788, Volunteer

Leader: Tim Hult

 

Aug 4-5 – Donner Pass Peaks Cabin trip

Leader: Chris MacIntosh

 

Aug 10-12 – Giraud

Leader: Charles Shafer

 

Aug 17-19 – Mystery Peak(s) TBD

Leader: To Be Announced

 

Aug 18-19 – Sequoia/Kings Canyon Car Camping

Leader: To Be Announced

 

Aug 24-28 – Agassiz, Cloudripper, Goode, Winchell

Leader: Lisa Barboza

 

Aug 31 - Sep 3 – Goat, State, Marion

Leader: Lisa Barboza

 

Sept 1-3 – Davis, Electra, Rodgers, Forester

Leader: To Be Announced

 

Sept 22-23 – Tower Peak

Leader: Bob Suzuki

 

Sept 21-23 – Virginia, Twin Peaks, Dunderberg

Leader: To Be Announced

 

Oct 19-21 – University, Kearsage, Gould (car camp)

Leader: Lisa Barboza

 

 

 

 

Private Trips

Summary

Private trips are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra Club. They are listed here because they may be of interest to PCS members. Private trips may be submitted directly to the Scree editor.

 

June 9-11 Ritter

June 29 - July 1 – Darwin/Mendel/Lamarck

June 30 - July 8 – Goddard Canyon & Ionian Basin

Jul 9-14 – Seven Gables, 13080

Jul 20-22 – B.S. x 2, Bear Creek Spire, 13720

Jul 28-30 – Star King, Clark

Aug 3-5 – Thumb, Disappointment

Aug 11-19(?) – Palisades-a-rama

Aug 19-25 – Wind Rivers

Aug 31 - Sept 3 – LeConte/Corcoran

Sept 1-3 – Gardner & Cotter

Sept 14-16 – Lover’s Leap Climbing (5th class)

October 2007 – Nepal around Annapurna

Mid-January 2008 – Kilimanjaro - Tanzania


PCS Trip Details

 

Sonora Pass Car Camp & Day Hikes

Peak: Leavitt Peak (11569), Stanislaus (11,233)

Dates: June 9-10, 2007 (Sat-Sun)

Maps:

Leader: Lisa Barboza  (pcs-vice@att.net)

Co-leader: Brian Roach

 

Beginner trip: We'll camp in or near the Dardanelles campground; day hike Leavitt on Saturday, Stanislaus on Sunday, and drive home.  Most of the terrain will be Class 1 or Class 2.  Bring plenty of water for the climb; we may be on some snow but the slopes are gentle. 

 

Cirque Peak and Muah Mtn Car Camp

Peak: Cirque Peak (12,900), Muah Mtn. (11,016)

Dates: June 16-17, 2007 (Sat-Sun)

Maps: Pacific Crest Trail G12, G13

Leader: Lisa Barboza  (pcs-vice@att.net)

Co-leader: Louise Wholey (louisewholey@yahoo.com)

 

Day hike, mostly on good trails, pretty class 1-2 peaks south of Whitney.  Cirque is a 2715 foot climb in 14.2 mi RT. Muah Mtn is a 2715 foot climb, 12.4 mi RT. Car camp at Horseshoe Meadow at 9940 feet altitude.

 

Iron Mountain

Peak: Iron Mountain (11,149, class 2)

Dates: June 23-24, 2007 (Sat- Sun)

Maps: Cattle Mountain 7.5

Leader: Charles Schafer (c_g_schafer@yahoo.com, 408-354-1545)

Co-leader: Natalie Guishar (natalie.guishar@yahoo.com)

 

Saturday we’ll hike in via the Beck Lakes trail and we’ll set up camp.  Sunday we’ll climb the peak, and hike out.  There are several alternate routes, and we’ll pick one that is suitable for the skill level of the group.

 

This region of the Sierra is one of my favorites because of its scenic beauty.  This trip is suitable for beginners with backpacking skills who are in reasonably good shape.

 


Mount Russell

Peak: Mount Russall 14086 (class 3)

Dates: June 30 – July 1, 2007

Maps:

Leader: Stephane Mouradian (smouradian@hotmail.com)

Co-leader: Kelly Maas ((kellylanda@sbcglobal.net, 408-378-5311)

 

We will take the east ridge route.  This trip is suitable for mountaineers experienced with class 3 climbing. The route is known for having some exposure.  Saturday: hike to upper boy scout lake. Sunday: summit and hike out.  Monday is an optional bad weather day.  We have a permit for 6. 

 

Thompson, Powell, Wallace

Peak: Thompson 13480, Powell 13400, Wallace 13377

Dates: July 2-5, 2007

Maps:

Leader: Lisa Barboza  (pcs-vice@att.net)

Co-leader: needed

 

Our Trailhead will be Lake Sabrina.  We will camp in the Echo Lakes region, climb these 3 peaks on successive days, pick the easiest one for last, hike out and drive home.  Send qualifications to leader.

 

Mount Langley

Peak: Mount Langley 14042

Dates: July 6-7, 2007

Maps:

Leader: Stephane Mouradian (smouradian@hotmail.com)

Co-leader: needed

 

This is a trip suitable for experienced backpackers with limited mountaineering experience, who would like to climb a non technical 14,000' peak.  Permit for 8.

 

The goal is to approach and camp on Friday. Then summit and walk out on Saturday. Sunday is the possible extra bad weather day.

 


Williamson and Tyndall

Peak: Mount Williamson 14275, Tyndall 14018

Dates: July 12-15, 2007

Maps: Mt Williamson

Leader: Jeff Fisher (jeff_fisher_5252@sbcglobal.net, 408-733-1299)

Co-leader: Louise Wholey (louisewholey@yahoo.com, 408-867-6658)

 

Meet at the Shepherd Pass TH Thursday morning and hike to the pass (long and hard).  Participants must be in excellent physical condition and well-acclimatized.  Friday, climb Williamson via class 3 west face. Saturday climb Tyndall or another peak via the class 2 NW ridge.  Sunday hike out.  Permit for 4, $5 each. 

 

Red, Gray, Merced, Fast and Light

Peak: Red 11699, Gray 11573, Merced 11726

Dates: July 20-24, 2007

Maps:

Leader: Lisa Barboza  (pcs-vice@att.net)

Co-leader: Louise Wholey (louisewholey@yahoo.com)

 

We're planning a fun Fast and Light backpacking climbing trip into the south side of Yosemite National Park. We'll leave from Mono Meadows trailhead, backpack to Ottoway Lake, and attempt Red, Gray, and Merced Peaks. These peaks are 2nd class on our routes.

 

Open to experienced backpackers and climbers, it's a long way in to our first night's camp, about 15 miles. Accordingly, this is a light and fast trip. Carry enough food and gear for 4 days of hiking and climbing in the Clark Range of Yosemite National Park. Plan to be at the TH in the evening of Thursday July 19 for an early start.

 

White Mountain day hike

Peak: White Mountain 14246

Dates: July TBD, 2007

Maps:

Leader: Jeff Fisher (jeff_fisher_5252@sbcglobal.net, 408-733-1299)

Co-leader: needed

 

This is a beginner trip.  The hiking is easy but quite high.  The drive passes close to Bristlecone Pines.

 


Split Mountain day hike

Peak: Split Mountain 14058

Dates: July TBD, 2007

Maps: Split Mtn

Leader: Jeff Fisher (jeff_fisher_5252@sbcglobal.net, 408-733-1299)

Co-leader: needed

 

This is a strenuous day trip from low on the valley floor to over 14000 feet.  Participants must be well-acclimatized, fit, and very strong, as well as able to climb class 3 quickly.

 

Piute, Petit, Volunteer

Peak: Piute 10541, Petit 10788, Volunteer 10497

Dates: July 27-30, 2007

Maps:

Leader: Tim Hult (408-970-0760)

Leader: Lisa Barboza  (pcs-vice@att.net)

 

This is an exploration of the beautiful wilderness of Northern Yosemite. Hike in from Twin Lakes to reach these Class 2 Peaks.  This trip is a planned as a loop trip over 4 days with long miles (10+ miles) and climbs for each of the days but one on the trail.  Technical climbing skills are not required, but ability to put in long days is. Participants should plan on packing light and efficient for this trip. Be prepared for mosquitoes.

 

Donner Pass Peaks Cabin Trip

Peak: Castle Peak 9103’, Basin Peak 9017’

Donner Peak 8019’, Mt Judah 8243’

Dates: August 4-5, 2007

Maps:

Leaders: Chris MacIntosh, cmaci@sbcglobal.net, 650-325-7841;  Deborah Benham,  deborah05@sbcglobal.net, 650-964-0558

 

Stay at a ski club cabin in Soda Springs (hot showers; happy hour on deck).  Saturday, hike up to the top of Castle and Basin Peaks; Sunday, we’ll summit Donner and Mt Judah. Beginners are most welcome! Cost: Lodging $30, Fri and Sat nights; 2 b’fasts and 1 dinner (BYO beer and wine) $20; total of $50.  Room for 10. Contact leader, then send check to confirm

 


Sequoia/Kings Canyon Car Camping

Peaks: Alta 11204 (class 1), Silliman 11188 (class 1,2)

Dates: August 18-19, 2007

Maps: Mt Silliman, Lodgepole: 7.5’

Leader: Deborah Benham,  deborah05@sbcglobal.net, 650-964-0558

Co-leader: needed

 

Enjoy the lovely forests and peaks of these national parks!  I’ve reserved two side-by-side campsites at Lodgepole Campground. $8 nonrefundable fee holds your spot for 2 nights (Fri/Sat).  Saturday, we’ll hike up Alta Peak; Sunday, we’ll summit Mt Silliman (expect a long day).  Legendary group appetizers Saturday night.

 

Agassiz, Cloudripper, Goode, Winchell

Peak: Agassiz, Cloudripper, Goode, Winchell

Dates: August 24-28, 2007

Maps:

Leader: Lisa Barboza  (pcs-vice@att.net)

Co-leader: needed

 

From South Lake TH above Bishop, we’ll climb over Bishop Pass to the Dusy Basin, make camp in an agreeable spot.  Day hike Agassiz, Goode, Winchell, and climb Cloudripper on the way to the cars.  This is a 4 day, beginner trip.  Participants must be in good condition and fit, ready for a Fast and Light outing.

 

Tower Peak (11,755')

Peak: Tower Peak (11,755')

Dates: Sept 22-23  (Sat-Mon, 2 or 3 days)

Maps: Tower Peak topo

Leader: Bob Suzuki  (SuzukiR@sd-star.com)

Co-leader: Louise Wholey (louisewholey@yahoo.com)

 

Cooler temps and starting fall colors may await us during this northern Sierra visit. A long backpack along the lovely West Walker River will eventually lead us to our camp along Kirkwood Creek. Sunday morning's climb will include the enjoyable class 3 granitic staircase in the northwest chute of Tower Peak. Expect to finish this trip in 2 days.

 

 

 


Trip Reports

 

Mt. Tinemaha, May 19-20

 

By Louise Wholey

 

Visions of ancient chiefdoms whirl through one’s head when one hears names like Tinemaha.  One wonders if there might be some relationship between Tinemaha and Winnedumah.  After all, they sound rather similar.  Indeed there is!  They were Paiute brothers, one a chief; the other a medicine man.  Mount Tinemaha was known by that name long ago, by early prospectors and cattlemen.  It is quite prominent from the Owens Valley floor, but it is not the highest peak on the ridge that extends eastward towards the valley. 

 

Our quest began at 7 AM Saturday when we met for the long 4 WD to the roadhead.  The first part to McMurray Meadow is smooth gravel, but the road deteriorates rapidly as it descends along Fuller Creek.  To our relief Charles Schafer graciously offered to drive this rough road.  The road maintenance matched the trail maintenance of the Red Lake Trail, essentially non-existent.  The trail reminded us of the Shepherd Pass trail, except that its use appears to be exclusively that of peak-baggers.  We found no signs of fish in Red Lake so there is nothing to draw a fisherman into this secluded area.  Also there is no trail access to the interior of the Sierra.  The only strange thing is that the trail does appear to be maintained, especially where the Alders grow thickly in stream beds.

 

The 4000 foot ascent to camp on the rough steep trail was taxing, but not as demanding as the 2000 foot climb of the peak over mostly small talus (no snow!) and 6000 foot (ouch!) descent back to the car.  Jim fortunately was enough awake to fly our airplane home, arriving at 12:30 AM Monday morning.  The others drove and made good time, arriving at 4:30 AM.  These arrivals are not great for the Monday workday, but we had a good time and gained one more summit.  Participants were Charles Schafer, Aaron Schuman, Jim and Louise Wholey.

 


Barnard - Trojan, May 4-6

By Lisa Barboza

 

We decided to brave the wilds of George Creek during 1 of the 2 times each year that the route is open to climbers.  We found a beautiful Black Oak grove at the start, a changed and overgrown trail from previous visits, and great early spring climbing.

 

From the Manzanar Historic Site, we drove 2WD vehicles easily to within ½ mile of the George Creek “Trailhead”.  We bushwacked up George Creek, camped at 9500 feet, climbed the couloir into Trojan-Barnard Bowl, climbed both peaks and hiked out on Day 3.

 

Abstract:

Day 1: George Creek TH, 6300 ft. to 9500 ft. campsite, distance 4 miles through heavy brush.

Day 2: Campsite 9550 ft. to Trojan-Barnard Bowl, Climb Trojan, then Barnard

Day 3: Campsite 9550 ft. to George Creek TH 6300 ft.

 

May 3, 2007    

We camped overnight at Onion Valley, outside of Independence, CA, to acclimatize.  The campground was closed, but we used our bivis for a windy night’s rest.  During the night, winds went up to 30 mph, temperatures dropped into the low 20s, and 2 inches of snow fell.  Present on this trip were Lisa Barboza, Lee Kenyon, Frank Martin, and Dimitry Vz from San Diego.

 

Day 1-  May 4, 2007:

We woke to find our world changed, with snow on our bivi sacks, the roads and the cars, and us with no chains!  We elected to move down as soon as possible and got packed up and moving by 6:30 AM, encountered no ice on the road down (but lots of rocks from slides).

 

We tried the route from the Onion Valley road (Foothill), but soon ran into impassible streams that we didn’t want to negotiate with our 2WD low clearance vehicles.  We turned around and took the Manzanar route, which we found to be much easier. We turned off of HWY 395 just before Manzanar Historic Site onto 14S01, turned left onto 14S02 just past the site, and then turned right on 14S03, which leads directly to the George Creek TH. Directions to the Manzanar route to the George Creek TH can be found on climber.org.  The road is easily negotiable in 2WD vehicles to within ½ mile of the George Creek TH.

 


George Creek Bushwacking Directions:

 

Once at the TH, you enter a grove of Quercus kelloggii (California Black Oak).  There are about 6 big trees, and these are surely old-growth as they are quite large.  You won’t see a trail. In fact, it will look quite hopeless – Do not cross to the south side of the creek. It’s best to stay on the north side of George Creek, and treat the stream crossing judiciously.  You will eventually cross the stream 5 times.   There is no rock-climbing on this route.  There is another route higher up on the south side, where you do cross a low CL3 notch, but we didn’t take that route.

To find the use trail, move about 100 yards through moderately thick brush, staying as close as possible to the canyon bottom and close to the south-facing slope.  Before long, a trail will appear that will wind up to 50 feet up the south side of the canyon and then wind back down into the canyon bottom.  It is a clear use trail, although not well travelled.  Follow this trail, staying on the north side of the creek until it gets to be impassible. The canyon will narrow, and you will reach a bend.  The distance is approximately .3 mile to the 1st Crossing: At this point, cross over to the south side of the creek and you will find a new trail.  Keep going about .5 mile until you get to a low waterfall (less than 10’ high) in a stand of Jeffrey pines and White Fir; at this point cross over to the north side again (2nd crossing).  You will be in a thick stand of trees and you’ll find a large tree that has fallen across the creek; almost immediately after the 2nd crossing, use this to cross over to the south side again (3rd crossing). 

After this, you will stay in the creek bottom along the trail for approximately 1 – 1.25 miles, and you will come to a narrowing in the trail.  There will be a 50 foot high cliff on the south side, brushy in the creek bottom and open sagebrush higher up on the north and south sides.  At this point there is a faint use trail on the south side of the creek and you will want to go above the cliff, about 100 feet above the creek bottom.  Once on the trail, the terrain will open up to sagebursh, and occasional pine trees, making easier going. This use trail will wind up and down and is quite obvious, and will go on for approximately .4 miles.  Eventually, there will be a deepening stand of trees ahead and then cross the South Fork of George Creek (4th crossing). After this point, proceed NW thorough a stand of pines, and willow, and eventually, after another .5 mile, you will cross the North Fork of George Creek for the last time (5th crossing).  The crossing is close to a granite glacial erratic boulder, about 20 feet cubed with black stains facing the creek.  It is the only large boulder evident. Cross to the north side as close to that as possible.  You will now pick up another use trail. We continued up the north side until we reached an obvious campsite in a stand of Foxtail pines. There are several good campsites there and the creek is about 200 feet way.  If you’re going to climb Williamson, it is advised to keep climbing to the 12000 foot level, where there is a stand of Whitebark pines and good open camping spots along the creek above a bench.  But we were climbing Trojan and Barnard, and this campsite is a good spot to make that attempt.  It took us 6 hours of climbing and bushwacking to get to this campsite at 9600 feet.  The weather was cold and windy, low clouds, and we were in our bivi sacks early for a 6:00 AM Start.

 

Day 2-May 5th, 2007:

We started shortly after 6:00 AM in weather that could best be described as cloudy.  In fact, we were in a low cloud and it was snowing on us!  After briefly discussing our options, we decided to begin our climb and monitor the weather closely.  We all agreed that we wouldn’t be climbing any peaks while in this thick cloud cover.

This is what the weather looked like when we started:

 

We climbed through brush onto good “styrofoam” snow with no postholing up to to a small lake (Junction), and waited for the clouds to clear.  We were’nt going anywhere until we could establish a good, visual route, although we knew our precise location with GPS.   After 15 minutes, the clouds disappeared and we saw the couloir we were about to climb – Amazing!.   The clouds came and went, but we started climbing as we had clear weather ½ of the time. We climbed the 1400 foot couloir to 12,400 foot bowl elevation on good crampon snow, to the Trojan-Barnard Bowl, arriving at 11:30 AM.

 

 

 

Mt. Trojan 13,880 feet.

Once in the bowl, we decided to climb Trojan first as it had snow couloirs that could melt out during the day (although the temps never went above 45 all day).  We used a CL2 route on snow to the right of the middle couloir, summiting Trojan at 12:45PM.  Fantastic views all around.

 

Some of our party wanted a rest, and we stayed on the summit for about 1 hour, enjoying the views, watching the clouds come in and out.  We descended back to the bowl, arriving at about 3PM.

 

Mt. Barnard 13,990

 

I wanted to climb Barnard, so while the others graciously waited in the bowl, I climbed to the summit of Barnard and back in about 75 minutes.  No register was to be found, although there was a small cairn.  By this time, the weather had cleared considerably, the sun had come out, and I had a great view of north side of Mt. Whitney.  The climb up to Barnard is a CL2 talus hop with a clear and easy route.  The traverse from Barnard to Trojan could be done, but it appears that there is some CL3 and there isn’t much of a reason to do so.

 

We went down the couloir’s north side in sand and gravel, avoiding the soft snow and arrived at camp at 630 PM.  After a hearty and well earned dinner, we sacked out for the night.

 


Day 3-May 6th, 2007:

Campsite to TH

After a 730 AM start, we essentially followed the same track back to the trailhead, took waypoints, and got back to the cars at 230 PM, and drove back to the Bay Area, arriving in San Jose at 10 PM.

 

All said, a great trip, although we left a George Creek-to-Williamson trip for another climbing trip.

 

 

 

Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch

 

May 12

 

Alex Sapozhniko, Yonid Novat, George Van Gorden

 

By George Van Gordon

 

You Don't Have to Summit But You Have to Get Down

 

The story's common, brief and sad;

By rocks and weather we were had.

The rocks went whizzing by our feet,

The clouds did gather far beneath.

We looked above, below and all around,

The signs were bed, our judgemnt sound,

Or so we thought and so did decide

Our summit fever to override.

We started down with lowered eyes

Still longing for the ridgeline sky,

It wasn't long until we knew

That no big storm that day would brew,

But who alas has what's required

Too turn again once boots are mired

In gravity's soft sweet embrace

Whether is lost or won the race.

And down we went no longer turning

To look behind at all our yearning,

And so by noon the parking lot

Talking of lunch and cold burritos.

 


Private Trips

 

Private trips are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra Club. They are listed here because they may be of interest to PCS members. Private trips may be submitted directly to the editor.

 

June 2 – Snow climbing practice at Mt. Lassen

Contact: Arun Mahajan (arun.mahajan@att.net)

Alternate: Kelly Maas (408-378-5311)

 

This trip is for climbers of all abilities who want to practice their ice axe and cramponing skills.  We'll meet in Lassen Volcanic National Monument on Saturday morning, seek out an appropriate slope with good runout, and spend the day refreshing our skills.  People are welcome to stay over Saturday night and go hiking or climbing on Sunday, but the skills practice is Saturday only.  Scott Kreider will assist.

 

June 9-11 – Ritter

Contact: Bob Suzuki (SuzukiR@sd-star.com)

Alternate: Linda Sun (lindasun@sbcglobal.net)

 

Saturday hike in and camp near Lake Ediza. Sunday climb Ritter via SE glacier, class 3.  Snow climbing likely; ice axe and crampons needed.  Hike out Sunday or Monday; depends on how the group feels.  Group size limited to 6. 

 

June 29 - July 1 Darwin/Mendel/Lamarck

Contact: Bob Suzuki (SuzukiR@sd-star.com)

Alternate: Lisa Barboza  (pcs-vice@att.net)

 

Class 3-4 rock, snow.  Mt Goddard 15', Mt Darwin 7.5' topos

 

This weekend will begin on Friday with a hike from North Lake over Lamark Col and into upper Darwin Canyon. Saturday morning we'll ascend the Darwin Glacier and west ridge, then climb the class 4 summit block of the mountain Secor calls "the monarch of the Evolution region."

Saturday afternoon will include a snow traverse to Mt. Mendel and a climb of it's loose east face. We'll bag Mt. Lamarck on our way out Sunday morning. Permit for 7.

 

June 30 - July 8 Goddard Canyon & Ionian Basin

Contact: Bob Evans (robtwevans@email.msn.com)

 

This is a full week trip, Sat - Sun, Jun 30 - Jul 8.  Our climbing goals include Mt. Goddard, E, 13,568; Scylla, 12,956; and others in the area.  Expect class 2 climbing; plan on bringing an ice axe.

 

Day 1: From Florence Lake landing, up Blayney Meadow Trail to Goddard Canyon. Day 2: To Martha Lake and Mt. Goodard. Day 3 -4: To Ionian Basin, Scylla and Charybdis. Days 5 - 7 flexible (e.g., Evolution Valley peaks; possible early exit). Days 8 and 9: out.

 


Jul 9-14 Seven Gables  13080

Contact: Kai Wiedman (650) 347-5234

 

Class 3.  A five day climbing and backpacking odyssey, mostly cross-country through many remote lake basins.

 

Jul 20-22 B.S. x 2, Bear Creek Spire, 13720

Contact: Bob Suzuki (SuzukiR@sd-star.com)

Alternate: Bob Evans, robtwevans@email.msn.com, 408-998-2857

 

Class 4, helmet, rope needed.  Fri-Sun.

 

After work Thursday, drive to vicinity of Camp 9. Friday, mellow hike from Rock Creek to Treasure Lake. Saturday, climb B.C.S. via class 4 ridge. Exit Saturday; Sunday to finish drive home in case of late exit.    

 

Jul 28-30 Star King (9,092'), Clark (11,522')

Contact: Bob Suzuki (SuzukiR@sd-star.com)

Alternate: Linda Sun (lindasun@sbcglobal.net)

 

Class 4-5.4 , roped climbing, ice axe. 3 days, Sat – Mon.  Merced Peak, Half Dome topos.

 

Brave sweltering summer heat, the Illilouette Creek, and hordes of voracious mosquitoes. We'll be rewarded with views of the magnificent Yosemite high country. Permit space for 2 or 3 more climbers. Climbing harness, helmet, belay/rappel device, and roped climbing experience required. Also ice ax, group bear canisters. Permit for 6.

 

Aug 3-5 Thumb (13,356), Disappointment (13,917)

Contact: Bob Suzuki (SuzukiR@sd-star.com)

Alternate: Louise Wholey (louisewholey@yahoo.com)

 

Class 4 rappel/roped climbing.  Fri-Sun, Split Mtn topo

 

To avoid Southfork Pass we'll try a new, unscouted approach from Birch Lake. Saturday's climb of the east ridge of Disappointment will require fast and efficient travel. Climbing harness, helmet, belay/rappel device,ice ax and roped climbing experience required. Group bear canisters. Permit for 7.

 

Aug 11-19(?) Palisades-a-rama

Contact: Jeff Fisher (jeff_fisher_5252@sbcglobal.net, 650-207-9632)

Alternate: 5th Class lead climber wanted to help lead.

 

Peaks: Thunderbolt, Starlite, North Palisade., Polemonium, and Sill, all over 14000 feet

 

Fun is to be had by all. Class 2, 3, 4 with 2 fifth class summit blocks. If interested in some but not all the peaks let me know. Helmets required on the Thunderbolt and Starlite, climbing shoes recommended. I will drive up early to get a non-reservable permit. The hope is to finish before the 19th; the option is to go home early or hit some other peaks.

 


Aug 19-25 Wind Rivers

Contact: Bob Suzuki (SuzukiR@sd-star.com)

Alternate: Steve Eckert (http://www.climber.org/WhosWho/Steve_Eckert.html)

 

Class 3-4, ice ax, crampons, rope used. Sun-Sat, 7 days.

Gannett, Fremont, Arrowhead, Lester, Ellingwood, Stroud …

Maps: Bridger Teton N. F.: Pinedale R.; Wind River Range, north half

 

More than just a dash up Titcomb Basin to bag the state highpoint of Gannett, we'll hike a loop over Knapsack Pass and climb a mixed bag of peaks with an eye toward variety and views (not just the highest ones around). The scenery should be great and greatly varied. Most of the backpacking will be on trail and the gain with full packs will be moderate. Some peaks will be rock, some snow, probably some with steep ice sections. Rope, tools, recent climbing resume, and confidence required. Leaders will be driving from San Francisco, Participants from other areas welcome. See  http://www.climber.org/trips/#706.

 

Aug 31 - Sept 3 LeConte/Corcoran

Contact: Bob Suzuki (SuzukiR@sd-star.com)

Alternate: Jim Ramaker (ramaker@us.ibm.com)

 

Class 3-4.  Fri-Mon. Mount Whitney, Mt Langley topos

McAdie (13,799'), LeConte (13,930'), Corcoran (13,714+'), Lone Pine (12,943')

 

These 4 high peaks south of Mt. Whitney should provide adequate exercise for the long Labor Day weekend. Our base camp will be at Meysan Lakes. Permit for 7.

 

Sept 1-3 Gardner & Cotter

Contact: Kelly Maas (kellylanda@sbcglobal.net, 408-378-5311)

 

Entry from Kearsarge Pass.  More details supplied later.

 

Sept 14-16 Lover’s Leap Climbing

Contact: Jeff Fischer (jeff_fischer_5252@sbcglobal.net, 408.733.1299)

Alternate: Natalie Guishar (natalie.guishar@yahoo.com)

 

Beautiful and classic Class 5 climbing up vertical granite walls with many cracks, ledges, knobs and faces.  At elevation of 6-7000 feet, expect temperatures in the 60s to 70s.  Group campsite is free but try to arrive early Friday to claim (squat on) a site.  For details on the climbing and location, see  http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/southlaketahoe.html

 


October 2007 Nepal around Annapurna

Contact: Warren Storkman (650-493-8959, dstorkman@aol.com)

 

This itinerary is for Oct 2007 to climb the highest trekking peak in Nepal, Mera Peak.

This walk up peak will allow you to bag over 21,000 ft.

Those who know me - know I do not handle your funds nor do you have to send any deposit.

 

ITINERARY FOR MERA PEAK

Day 1      Fly to Lukla/ Phakding overnight camp

Day 2      Phakding to Namche overnight camp

Day 3      Namche Day hike to Khumjung / Kunde

Day 4      Namche to Phakding overnight camp

Day 5      Phakding to Thukdingma overnight camp

Day 6      Thukdingma trek to Tsetre overnight camp

Day 7      Tsetre trek to Thaksingdingma

Day 8      Thaksindingma to Thagnak

Day 9      Thagnak rest day for acclimatization

Day 10   Thagnak trek to Khare

Day 11    Khare trek to Mera Base Camp camp

Day 12   Extra day in case of bed weather

Day 13   High camp and make preparation for the next day to get to the summit. Day 14    Climb Mera  summit look  views of Pumori (7161m), Lhotse (8516m) Makalu (8463m), Lobuche (6145m), Cho Oyu (8201m) are  spectacular from the summit. We retrace to Base Camp

Day 15-17 Mera Peak Base Camp - Lukla. We follow   the same route and come back to Lukla

Day 18   Lukla - Kathmandu flight out

 

US $ 1520 per person

 

Mid-January 2008 Kilimanjaro - Tanzania

Contact: Warren Storkman (650-493-8959, dstorkman@aol.com)

 

Climb Kilimanjaro in Tanzania.  Take an optional safari.  Inquiries are welcome. 


Elected Officials

Chair:
     Kelly Maas / kellylanda@sbcglobal.net

     1165 Smith Ave. Unit D, Campbell, CA 95008

     408-378-5311

Vice Chair and Trip Scheduler:
    
Lisa Barboza / pcs-vice@att.net

     4382 Moran Drive,  San Jose, CA 95129

     650-493-8099

Treasurer and Membership Roster (address changes):
     Toinette Hartshorne / toinette@pipeline.com

     650-556-9497

Publicity Committee Positions

Scree Editor:
     Louise Wholey/ screeeditor@yahoo.com

     21020 Canyon View Drive, Saratoga, CA 95070

     408-867-6658

PCS World Wide Web Publisher:
     Rick Booth / rwbooth@comcast.net

     237 San Mateo Av., Los Gatos, CA 95030

     408-354-7291

 


Scree is the monthly journal of the Peak Climbing Section of the Sierra Club, Loma Prieta Chapter.
Our official website is http:// lomaprieta.sierraclub.org/pcs/

Email List Info

If you are on the official email list (lomap-pcs-announce@lists.sierraclub.org) or  the email list the PCS feeds (pcs-issues@climber.org), you have a free EScree subscription. For email list details, send "info lomap-pcs-announce" to "listserv@lists.sierraclub.org", or send anything to "info@climber.org". EScree subscribers should send a subscription form to the Treasurer to become voting PCS members at no charge. The Scree is on the web as both plain text and fully formatted Adobe Acrobat/PDF.

Climbing Classifications

The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing trips for which you are qualified. No simple rating system can anticipate all possible conditions.
     Class 1: Walking on a trail.
     Class 2: Walking cross-country, using hands for balance.
     Class 3: Requires use of hands for climbing, rope may be used.
     Class 4: Requires rope belays.
     Class 5: Technical rock climbing.


Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Monday,  June 25th. Meetings are the second Tuesday of each month.

Peak Climbing Section, 789 Daffodil Way, San Jose CA 95117               

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