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May, 2006                                                    Peak Climbing Section, Loma Prieta Chapter, Sierra Club                         Vol. 40 No. 5

World Wide Web Address:  http://lomaprieta.sierraclub.org/pcs/


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General Meeting


Date:              May 9

Time:              7:30 - 9:00 pm


Program:      From White Canyon

to Dark Canyon


Presenter:      Hal Tompkins

Join us in an exploration of several tributaries to the Colorado in the vicinity of Lake Powell.  We spent a week descending technical slot canyons in the White Canyon and North Wash areas and then another week doing semi-technical backpacking in the Dark Canyon area.


Location:               THE NORTH FACE

Directions:           217 Alma Street, Palo Alto, CA 94301

From San Jose (Northbound Highway 101):  Take the University Ave Exit and turn left (south) going toward Stanford.  Turn right on Alma Street.

From San Francisco (Southbound Highway 101):  Take the University Ave exit and turn right (south) going toward Stanford.  Turn right on Alma Street. 



PCS Trips

PCS trips must be submitted through the Scheduler (see back cover for details).

Pilot Knob & Lamont Pk

Dates:     May 6-7 (Sat-Sun)

Peaks:    Pilot Knob (6200+'), Lamont Peak (7,429')

Class:     2

Leaders: Bob Suzuki, w: 408-678-3541, SuzukiR@sd-star.com

                Joerg Lohse, h: 408-542-1406, JoergPCS@gmail.com

Maps:      Onyx and Lamont Peak topos

Start the spring climbing season with 2 day hikes and
car camping north of highway 178 (east of Bakersfield).
Contact either leader to sign up.


2006 Tentative PCS Trip Schedule


May 27-29              Angora Peak, Coyote



June 16-18             Palisade Basin/Big Pine Creek area

June 30- July 4      Mt Ruskin, Arrow Peak



July 1-4                  Mt Emerson, Muriel Peak

July 1-4                  Mt Sill

July 8-10                                Pettit Peak, Volunteer Peak

July 22-26              Milestone Basin area



Aug 11-13               Giraud Peak

Aug 12-16               Mt Goddard

Aug 19-20               Mt Silliman

Aug 19-20               Tuolumne Meadows Carcamp

Aug 25-27               Mt Ritter, Banner Peak

Aug 25-27               Mt Langley




Sept 2-5                   Piute Peak, Volunteer Peak (redux)

Sept 8-10                 Mt Gabb

Sept 16-17               Koip Peak

Sept 22-24               Excelsior Peak, Glass Mountain



Trip Report

Live Freel or Die: a balancing act

by Tom Driscoll with photos by Kelly Maas


For once, the weather forecast was (drearily) accurate:




Heavy snow in the morning...then numerous snow showers in the afternoon.

Highs 40 to 50….

Southwest winds 20 to 30 mph with gusts up to 40 mph….

Gusts to 80 mph over ridges….


We hiked up the Fountain Road from Meyers four days after spring in a cold rain. We hoped our Goretex would keep us dry and our pack covers and plastic would protect our down sleeping bags. We were risking hypothermia out here in this weather. We heard the booming of avalanche control mortars at the nearby ski areas and road passes. Six inches of snow had fallen the night before. Our approach towards Freel Peak was in the trees and low angle so avalanche danger was low, but could be a concern later. As we climbed above Fountain Place in the northeast drainage, the temperature dropped, the rain changed to wet snow and the wind speed increased. At the 8400 foot elevation level we found a sheltered campsite in a thick grove of trees and escaped the elements in our tents. The snow stopped and the wind calmed about dinner time, so we gathered in the kitchen Kelly had chopped from a snowbank. The temperature dropped into the low teens overnight, but we were mostly warm in our zero-degree bags.


For the second time in two days the weather forecast was (pleasantly) accurate.



Mostly sunny….

High 42….


At first light (or around 8 am) Lisa, Brian, and Kelly stomped a path to the summit of Freel with the rest of the group following. We slathered on the sunscreen and shed layers as we climbed. Six inches of new snow gave way to wind-pack in the bowl below the summit. Three hours of effort rewarded us with fantastically clear summit views of the Tahoe peaks beneath us: Tallac, Pyramid, and Roundtop. The whole of Lake Tahoe was glassy-ice smooth below us. We slid, skiied, and tromped down through softening snow back to camp. The 5-mile trudge back to the trailhead tired us out, but we were pleased with the balance of risk and reward we had achieved. Trip members: Lisa Barbosa, Kelly Maas, Frank Martin, Tony Stegman, Linda Sun, Gabor Szedo, Brian Roach, and leader Tom Driscoll



Private Trips

Private trips are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra Club. They are listed here because they may be of interest to PCS members. Private trips may be submitted directly to the editor.

2006 Tentative Private Trip Schedule



May 20-21               Stanislaus Peak, Mt Morgan


June 3-5                 Mt Henry

June 2-4                 Red Slate Mountain

June 10-12             North Guard, Mt Farquhar



July 1-4                  Goat Mountain, State Peak, Marion Peak

July 7-9                  Mt Lyell, Mt Maclure

July 22-30              Whaleback, Glacier Ridge

July 28-30              Red, Gray, Merced



Aug 11-12               Matterhorn, Whorl Mountain

Aug 12-20               Wind River Range, Wyoming



Sept 7-10                 Rodgers Peak, Electra Peak

Sept 22-24               Middle Palisade


2006 Private Trips Open for Signup


For the following trip listing, please contact:

Arun Mahajan and Doug Bardsley, escreality@yahoo.com

·Date:  May 6-7

Peak:  Matterhorn Peak (12,281')

Difficulty:  Class 2-3, Ice axe, snow travel & camping

Location:  Northern Yosemite

For the following trip listing, please contact:

Bob Suzuki, SuzukiR@sd-star.com

Chris Franchuk, clif2694@earthlink.net


·Date:  May 27-29 (Sat-Mon)

Peak:  Coyote Peak (10,892'), Angora Mtn (10,198')

Difficulty:  Class 2

Location:  Southern Sierra Nevada


For the following trip listing, please contact:

Cecil Anison, cecilann@comcast.net

Kai Wiedman, (650) 347-5234

·Date:  June 3 - 4

Peak:  Red Slate Couloir      13,163’

Difficulty:  Ice axe and crampon experience required

For the following trip listing, please contact:


Bob Suzuki, w: 408-678-3541, SuzukiR@sd-star.com
Steve Eckert, http://www.climber.org/WhosWho/Steve_Eckert.html


·Date:  Sat.  6/3 - Sun.  6/4 or Mon 6/5  (2 or 3  days)

Peak: Mt Henry

Difficulty: class 2, ice axe, snow travel

Location: western Sierra Nevada

For the following trip listing, please contact:


Bob Suzuki, w: 408-678-3541, SuzukiR@sd-star.com
Linda Sun lindasun@sbcglobal.net


·Date:  June 10 - 12

Peaks: North Guard 13327', Mt. Francis Farquhar 12893'

Difficulty: class 3 with class 4 summit, snow travel, ice axe,  crampons, rope



For the following trip listing, please contact:

Lisa Barboza, lisa.barboza@gd-ais.com

·Date:  July 7-9, 2006

Peaks: Mt Lyell, Mt Maclure


For the following trip listing, please contact:

Dee Booth, Linda Sun, lindasun@sbcglobal.net

·Date:  July 22-30, 2006

Peaks: Milestone, Table, Thunder, Jordan, Barnard

Difficulty: class 3, class 4, rope


For the following trip listing, please contact:

Lisa Barboza, lisa.barboza@gd-ais.com

·Date:  July 28-30, 2006

Peaks: Red, Gray, Merced

For the following trip listing, please contact:


Bob Suzuki, SuzukiR@sd-star.com

Bob Evans, 408-998-2857, robtwevans@email.msn.com


·Date:  Sat.  7/22 - Sun.  7/30 (9 days)


Peaks: Kern Pt (12789 ft, class 2), Picket Guard (12,302 ft, class. 3) Whale Back (11717 ft, class 3), Glacier Ridge (12,416 ft, class 4

For the following trip listing, please contact:

Steve Eckert, http://www.climber.org/WhosWho/Steve_Eckert.html

Bob Suzuki, http://www.climber.org/WhosWho/Bob_Suzuki.html


·Date:  August 12 - 20

 Peaks: Gannett, Fremont, Arrowhead, Lester, Ellingwood,

             Stroud, Winifred, Elephant

 Difficulty: class 3 & 4, ice axe, crampons, glaciers, rope

 Location: Rockies


For the following trip listing, please contact:

Warren Storkman, 650-493-8959, dstorkman@aol.com

·Date:  October 2006

Peak: Kala Pattar (18300’)

Location: Nepal, Everest Base Camp

For the following trip listing, please contact:

Warren Storkman, 650-493-8959, dstorkman@aol.com

·Date:  January 2007

Peak: Kilimanjaro

Location: Tanzania, optional safari following







Free Ski Boots


FOR FREE: Leather Ski Boots-- Asolo Snowfields,

3-pin binding. Fits a woman's size 9, double-wide Pretty roomy; stretched-out actually  (so if you're a guy and have size 8 feet....)

Contact: Debbie Benham, deborah05@sbcglobal.net

Elected Officials

Tom Driscoll / pcschair2006@sbcglobal.net

     2149 Junction Ave #3, Mountain View, CA 94043

     650-938-2106  home

Vice Chair and Trip Scheduler:
     Bill Kirkpatrick / pcs2006@earthlink.net

    28 N. First St #100,  San Jose, CA 95113

    408-497-2957 work

Treasurer and Membership Roster (address changes):
     Landa Robillard / kellylanda@sbcglobal.net

     408-378-5311 home

Publicity Committee Positions

Scree Editor:
Joerg Lohse / JoergPCS@gmail.com

     1233 Elm Lake Ct, San Jose, CA 95131

     408-452-1406 home

PCS World Wide Web Publisher:
     Rick Booth / rwbooth@comcast.net

    237 San Mateo Av., Los Gatos, CA 95030

    408-354-7291 home

Publicity Chair:
      Paul Vlasveld / pvlasvel@yahoo.com

     789 Daffodil Way, San Jose, CA 95117

     408-247-6472 home


Scree is the monthly journal of the Peak Climbing Section of the Sierra Club, Loma Prieta Chapter.
Our official website is http:// lomaprieta.sierraclub.org/pcs/

Email List Info

If you are on the official email list (lomap-pcs-announce@lists.sierraclub.org) or  the email list the PCS feeds (pcs-issues@climber.org), you have a free EScree subscription. For email list details, send "info lomap-pcs-announce" to "listserv@lists.sierraclub.org", or send anything to "info@climber.org". EScree subscribers should send a subscription form to the Treasurer to become voting PCS members at no charge. The Scree is on the web as both plain text and fully formatted Adobe Acrobat/PDF.

Rock Climbing Classifications

The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing trips for which you are qualified. No simple rating system can anticipate all possible conditions.
     Class 1: Walking on a trail.
     Class 2: Walking cross-country, using hands for balance.
     Class 3: Requires use of hands for climbing, rope may be used.
     Class 4: Requires rope belays.
     Class 5: Technical rock climbing.

Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday,  May 28th. Meetings are the second Tuesday of each month.

Peak Climbing Section, 789 Daffodil Way, San Jose CA 95117               

"Vy can't ve chust climb?" - John Salathe                                                            First Class Mail - Dated Material