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 June, 2004     Peak Climbing Section, Loma Prieta Chapter, Sierra Club Vol. 38 No. 6

World Wide Web Address: http://lomaprieta.sierraclub.org/pcs/

Next General Meeting

Date:          Tuesday, June 8, 2004

Time:          7:30 PM

Program:    Trans-Sierra Ski Touring -- by John Cordes

Location     Peninsula Conservation Center, 3921 East Bayshore Rd, Palo Alto, CA

Directions:     From 101: Exit at San Antonio Road, Go East to the first traffic light, Turn left and follow Bayshore Rd to the PCC on the corner of Corporation Way. A sign marking the PCC is out front. Park behind.

Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 6/27/2004  •  Meetings are the 2nd Tuesday of each month.

PCS Trips

PCS trips must be submitted through the Scheduler (see back cover for details). Trips not received from the Scheduler will be listed as PRIVATE, without recourse.

Irish Canyons

Peak:            Irish Canyons
Dates:          June 4-6, 2004 (Fri-Sun)
Leader:        Ted and Connie, 480-961-0370

Irish Canyons of the North Wash (located near Hanksville, Utah). The conservation theme for this trip will be ongoing discussion of drought conditions in the Southwest and the effect on the Colorado River ecosystem.

Maidenwater Canyon

Peaks:          Maidenwater Canyon
Dates:           June 4, 2004 (Fri)
Leader:         Ted and Connie, 480-961-0370

This is a very physical canyoneering adventure requiring constant downclimbing, wading, stemming, chimneying and the possibility of a short swim near the finish. There will be at least 5 rappels (or more) up to 30-feet. Long sleeve shirt and long pants are strongly recommended or you will leave some skin on the canyon walls. Please waterproof your gear and bring a change of clothes for after the hike.

Zion Canyoneering

Peaks:          Zion Canyoneering (Utah)
Dates:           June 18-20 (Fri-Sun)
Leader:         Ted and Connie, 480-961-0370

Conservation theme for this trip will be ongoing discussion of the latest revisions to the Zion Nation Park general management plan.

June 18th, Misery Canyon: This is a long canyoneering adventure that will take us beyond Checkerboard Mesa all the way to the East Fork of the Virgin River and back. Requires scrambling, downclimbing, stemming, wading, swimming, and several rappels up to 60-feet. Wetsuits may be advisable for those who chill easily. Please waterproof your gear and bring a change of clothes for after the hike. The hike out may be hot and dry, so bring plenty of water.

June 19th, Birch Hollow rappel hike: This canyoneering adventure features about 10 rappels up to 100-feet. There will be bushwacking, scrambling, downclimbing, and possibly some wading. The hike out may be hot and dry, so bring plenty of water.

June 20th, Keyhole Canyon rappel hike: This is a half-day canyoneering adventure contingent on us drawing enough permits from the Zion lottery system. There will be scrambling, downclimbing, wading, swimming, and a few rappels up to 30-feet. Wetsuits may be advisable for those who chill easily. Please waterproof your gear and bring a change of clothes for after the hike.

El Capitan

Peaks:          El Capitan (3000' above valley floor) Mt Hoffman, 10,850'
Dates:           July 17-18, Sat-Sun
Difficulty:       Class 1, on trail
Map:            Yosemite National Park (Tom Harrison Recreational Maps)
Leader:         Debbie Benham (h) 650-964-0558, and Linda Sun

Now is your chance to reach the summit of that famous rock wall!! Join us at Crane Flat for car camping and a fun weekend of hiking the trails at Yosemite National Park. Saturday we'll climb the backside of El Cap via Yosemite Falls and take in Eagle Peak along the way. Sunday, we'll have a leisurely stroll up Mt Hoffman. Newcomers and Sierra Club members given preference. Nonrefundable campsite fee of $8 reserves your spot. Contact: Debbie Benham: (h) 650-964-0558.

Mt. Dana

Peaks:          Mt Dana (13,057') via Dana Plateau
Dates:           July 31-Aug 1st (Sat-Sun)
Difficulty:       Class 2
Map:               Mount Dana 7.5' topo
Leader:         Debbie Benham (h) 650-964-0558, and Chris MacIntosh

Cross your fingers and expect a long day...we'll go for the Dana Summit on Saturday and may have to acquiesce to the Dana Plateau. On Sunday, we'll pick another peak...there are so many. Join us for a Tuolumne Meadows carcamp! Newcomers and Sierra Club members will be given preference. A nonrefundable camping fee holds your spot. Contact Debbie Benham: (h) 650-964-0558.

Yosemite Rock Climbing Weekend

May 8-9, 2004

This was the third annual Rock Climbing Weekend. Last year we went to Sequoia NP, but this year we were back in Yosemite.

People started rolling in Friday afternoon, and some of us took advantage of the hospitality and fine food of The Mountain Room (not to mention the fine photography). Saturday morning the climbing commenced. Kelly and I invited David to join us since he didn t' have a partner. Nancy and Tom hiked the Eagle Point Trail, and the rest spread about the valley climbing various routes.

Saturday evening we had happy hours with camp fire, and a verity of sweets changing hands.

Sunday started early for Kelly and I as we got a head start on the Royal Arches (look for a separate report.) Others went for the famous Curry Village buffet breakfast following by a verity of climbing and hiking activities. Everyone seemed to have gotten back home before midnight.

Some of the routes climbed:

Squeeze-n-Tease, 5.8, 1p

L.D. Getaway, 5.8, 1p

Munginella, 5.6, 3p (was climbed twice)

Sloth Wall, 5.7, 2p

The Grack: 5.6 3p

After 6, 5.6, 6p

The Cavern, 5.8, 5p

The Royal Arches, 5.7, 16p

Jam Crack, 5.7, 1p

Participants: Chris Kerr, David Altmar, Florence Scholl, Joan Marshall, Kelly Maas, Nabeel Atique, Nancy Fitzsimmons, Mike Zelinski, Tom Driscol, and scribe - Ron Karpel.

• Ron Karpel

Mt Dana

Via the Dana Couloir

Sunday, May16, 2004,

Particiapants: Arun Mahajan and Kelly Maas

Tioga Pass was open! This was the earliest in my memory, so Kelly and I decided to pay homage. Climbing Mt Dana (just over 13000 ft) that is so close to the Tioga Pass entrance seemed to be an ideal way to kick off the high(er) altitude climbing for the season. To add further spice, we decided to climb Dana by way of the Dana Couloir. Kelly had climbed it a few times, with ropes when it was icy and without, when it was earlier in the season and had been a high angled snow climb. I too had climbed it in fall once, as a roped climb and with ice regalia, with Ron Karpel but I had not done it as an early season snow climb.

So, off we went, walking from the deserted parking lot just inside the park, at Tioga Pass, at about seven am. There was snow everywhere and it was hard and packed. We went towards Glacier Canyon. The usually barren slopes were snowbound and as we approached the Dana Couloir, the snow was hard enough that we had to put on crampons. We saw a couple of hardy skiiers climbing up the Solstice Couloir with their skis lashed to their packs.

After a long break at the base of the Dana Couloir (no bergschrund today, everything closed up), we set off to climb the actual couloir. Kelly sprinted up effortlessly, front pointing all the way. With my skills and confidence quite lower, I took on a more cautious pace, zigzagging up the slopes. Soon, Kelly was out of sight. The snow was good for cramponing and the shaft of the axe sank just enough to inspire confidence but I had to be careful as there were patches of harder snow interspersed with the softer snow. Fifty five minutes from having started, I was at the top of the couloir. Kelly had been waiting patiently for me for the past twenty five minutes, amazing!

It is a privilege to see the Sierra with this much snow and this early in the season. After a long lunch break, we took off towards the summit of Dana. The snow was softer here than on the couloir but it was rippled and there was a lot of it, being the north/north-east side.

There were people at the summit, skiiers as well as mountain climbers. Being in no particular hurry, we chatted and eventually made our way down by the usual, popular route. Several groups of skiiers were coming up and there was good snow cover below the summit boulders on this side of Dana, with patches of ground showing up in several places.

• Arun Mahajan

Private Trips

Private trips may be submitted directly to the Scree Editor, but are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra Club. They are listed here because they may be of interest to PCS members. 

Mt. Shasta

Peaks:          Mt. Shasta (14,162)
Dates:           May 29-30, 2004
Contact:    George Van Gorden vangordeng321@aol.com

I was hoping to climb Shasta by the Clear Creek route this year but there won't be enough snow for that route this year. So instead it's back to the Hotlum=Bolam ridge route. We will not rope up was we will be staying off the glaciers, but the route is moderaately steep and experience with crampons and good skills in self-arrest are necessary. We will begin the climb on Sat. camp that night at 9500 feet, summit on Sunday and return to our cars before dark on Sunday.

Needham or Bust

Peaks:          Needham Mtn (12,520+')
Dates:           June 12-13, 2004 (Sat-Sun)
Difficulty:       Class 2s3, ice axe, crampons
Map:              Mineral King topo
Contact:    Bob Suzuki, SuzukiR@sd-star.com, 3646 El Grande Ct., San Jose, 95132, w: 408-918-2588, h: 408-259-0772

Needham Mountain, for various reasons, has eluded previous attempts to stand on it's coveted summit. With cooperation of the weather, this weekend will finally be different.

Planned is a pleasant backpack from Mineral King up to Crystal Lake. Sunday morning we'll climb and descend an 11,500', possibly snowy, ridge above camp, traverse past Amphitheater Lake, and successfully ascend the south slope of Needham Mountain. Ice axe and crampons required; also a $10 deposit to cover cost of the permit (forfeited if cancel, difference refunded at TH).

Red Slate

Peaks:          Red Slate (13,163 ft.), North Couloir
Dates:           June 12-13, 2004
Difficulty:       Class 3 Snow, (ice axe and crampons)
Contact:    Kai Wiedman (615)347-5234; Cecil Anison (408) 395-4525 Cecil_Anison@sjusd.k12.ca.us

Hey, let's climb a cool couloir just like real ice climbers except without the ice! That's right, it will still be filled with snow this time of year.

Exposure? Yes!!
Fun? Yes!!
Danger? No!!

Join us for this attractive climb without the impediment of ice climbing regalia.

Iron Mountain

Peaks:          Iron Mtn. (11,148')
Dates:           June 26-28, 2004 (Sat-Mon)
Difficulty:       Class 2, ice axe, crampons
Map:              Cattle Mtn, Mt Ritter topos
Contact:    Bob Suzuki, SuzukiR@sd-star.com, 3646 El Grande Ct., San Jose, 95132, w: 408-918-2588, h: 408-259-0772

Iron Mtn sits at the southern end of the Ritter Range and the Minarets. We'll approach this less visited area of the Range via the Fern Lake Trail, starting from within Devils Postpile National Monument. This climb will be attempted in the 2-day weekend. However, we'll have the optional day if snow conditions make for slower progress. Ice axe, crampons and group bear canisters required, snowshoes will depend on conditions. Also required, a $10 deposit to cover cost of the permit (forfeited if cancel, difference refunded at TH).

Feather Peak and Julius Caesar

Peaks:           Feather Peak (13,240 ) and Mt Julius Caesar (13,200 )
Dates:           July 3 - July 5 (Sat. - Mon.)
Difficulty:       snow climb, ice axe and crampons, Class 3
Map:              Mt Tom 7.5 & Mt Hilgard 7.5
Contact:    Bob Suzuki, SuzukiR@sd-star.com, 3646 El Grande Ct., San Jose, 95132, w: 408-918-2588, h: 408-259-0772; Charles Schafer: c_g_schafer@yahoo.com, H: 408-354-1545

This is another really scenic area of the Sierra, and the climb of Feather is rated as a classic. Saturday we ll hike in to the Granite Park area where we ll set up camp. Sunday we ll climb the Feather Couloir using ice axe and crampons (if there is need for a rope for protection, we ll back off, and try another route). Depending on how we feel, we may try to do Royce as well. Monday we ll climb Julius Caesar via the west ridge (also considered a classic route), and then hike out. Crampon/ice axe experience is required, and you will need to make a $10 deposit to cover cost of the permit (forfeited if cancelled, difference refunded at the TH).

Mt. Olympus

Peaks:          Mt. Olympus, Washington (7900)
Dates:           July 7-10, 2004
Contact:    George Van Gorden vangordeng321@aol.com

I am looking for two or three people with glacier travel experience and a good knowedge of crevasse rescue to climb Mt. Olympus with. We would start our trip at the Hoh river trailhead on the 7th and return to the trailhead on the 10th. Summit day would involve roped travel over glaciers.

Nepal/ Chulu West Climb + Trek

Peaks:          Chulu West (21,752'), Trek Manang Region
Dates:           Oct 4-24 (Mon-Sun)
Difficulty:       Trekkers Peak Class A, Moderate to Difficult (Or Trekkers Can Skip Peak)
Location:    Nepal - Manang Region
Contact:    Warren Storkman, Dstorkman@aol.com

This trip to Chulu West (21,752') is a Class A trekkers peak from the Manang region of the Annapurna Circuit. We would leave for Nepal early October 2004. Trek Charges are US $1045.00 per person 16 day trek also covers internal air. Peak permit is US $350.00 for up to 4 persons – above 4 persons US $40.00 each. Extra Sherpa equipment allowance US $250.00 each sherpa. After peak climb the group will cross the Thorung La foot pass to reach the Jomson airport and then fly back to KTM. On the way to Jomson we'll visit Kagbini, a village that is the same as it was 500 years ago. Those who only want to do the trek without the peak climb are also welcome.

Aconcagua 22,800 Argentina

Peaks:          Aconcagua
Dates:           December 28, 2004
Contact:    Warren Storkman, Dstorkman@aol.com

A difficult walk-up to the highest peak in South America

Elected Officials

    Pat Callery / pcs-chair@climber.org
    1225 Bracebridge Court
    Campbell, CA 95008
    408-871-8702 home

Vice Chair and Trip Scheduler:
    Linda Sun / lindasun@sbcglobal.net
    P. O. Box 3208
    Saratoga, CA 95070

Treasurer and Membership Roster (address changes):
    Jeff Fisher / han1cannae@msn.com
    876 Lewis Avenue
    Sunnyvale, CA 94086

Publicity Committee Positions

Scree Editor:
     Bob Bynum / pcs-editor@climber.org
     510-659-1413 home

PCS World Wide Web Publisher:
     Roger Dettloff/ pcs_web_roger@pacbell.net
     Redwood City, CA

Publicity Chair:
     Arun Mahajan / pcs-pub-chair@climber.org
     650-327-8598 home
     1745 Alma Street, Palo Alto, CA 94301

Scree is the monthly journal of the Peak Climbing Section of the Sierra Club, Loma Prieta Chapter.

Our official website is http://lomaprieta.sierraclub.org/pcs/

Subscriptions and Email List Info

Hard copy subscriptions are $13. Subscription applications and checks payable to “PCS” should be mailed to the Treasurer so they arrive before the last Tuesday of the expiration month. If you are on the official email list (lomap-pcs-announce@lists.sierraclub.org) or  the email list the PCS feeds (pcs-issues@climber.org), you have a free EScree subscription. For email list details, send "info lomap-pcs-announce" to "listserv@lists.sierraclub.org", or send anything to "info@climber.org". EScree subscribers should send a subscription form to the Treasurer to become voting PCS members at no charge. The Scree is on the web as both plain text and fully formatted Adobe Acrobat/PDF.

Rock Climbing Classifications

The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing trips for which you are qualified. No simple rating system can anticipate all possible conditions.
     Class 1: Walking on a trail.
     Class 2: Walking cross-country, using hands for balance.
     Class 3: Requires use of hands for climbing, rope may be used.
     Class 4: Requires rope belays.
     Class 5: Technical rock climbing.

Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 6/27/2004  •  Meetings are the 2nd Tuesday of each month.

Peak Climbing Section, 789 Daffodil Way, San Jose CA 95117

"Vy can't ve chust climb?" - John Salathe