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 April, 2004     Peak Climbing Section, Loma Prieta Chapter, Sierra Club Vol. 38 No. 4

World Wide Web Address: http://lomaprieta.sierraclub.org/pcs/

Next General Meeting

Date:         Tuesday, April 13, 2004

Time:        7:30 PM

Program:  Climbing in Ecuador: Avenue of the Volcanoes, by Kelly Maas

Location       Peninsula Conservation Center, 3921 East Bayshore Rd, Palo Alto, CA

Directions:     From 101: Exit at San Antonio Road, Go East to the first traffic light, Turn left and follow Bayshore Rd to the PCC on the corner of Corporation Way. A sign marking the PCC is out front. Park behind.

Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 4/25/2004  •  Meetings are the 2nd Tuesday of each month.

PCS Trips

PCS trips must be submitted through the Scheduler (see back cover for details). Trips not received from the Scheduler will be listed as PRIVATE, without recourse.

Rock Climbing Clinic

Dates:                 April 24-25th (Sat, Sun) 2004
Location:            Pinnacles NM
Leader:               Ron Karpel, ronny@karpel.org ; Rick Booth, rwbooth@comcast.net

Our clinic will emphasize safe rock climbing using rock climbing gear. The goal is to help beginner rock climber get more comfortable with outdoor climbing. We will practice climbing rock routes of levels up to about 5.9.

Participants will train in general use of ropes, tying knots, harnesses, using protection devices, setting anchors, using slings and carabiners, providing belay to leaders, top rope belay to followers, tying in to a belay station, using belay devices, and rappelling. We do not intend to train in leading rock climbing.

To participate, you must be a Sierra Club member, and you will need to sign the standard Sierra Club waiver and sign-up sheet. Include your Sierra Club member number with your application request. Applications without a SC number will not be accepted.

Rock Climbing in Yosemite NP

Dates:                 May 8-9, 2004
Maps:                  Yosemite NP
Guide Books:    Too many to list
Leader:               Ron Karpel, ronny@karpel.org ; Rick Booth, rwbooth@comcast.net

This is an official trip of the Sierra Club. You must be a Sierra Club member to sign-up. We are organizing a weekend long trip to Yosemite NP for clean and simple rock climbing fun. You must have a partner, and one of you needs to be able to lead SAFELY the routes you are going to climb, while the other partner must be able to follow (at least). You also must use your own gear. You must use a helmet. I will be happy to keep a "looking for a partner list", but you will need to make the contact. To sign-up, send a climbing resume (rock climbing), the name of your partner (or if you want to be on the "looking for partner" list), and your Sierra Club member number to the above e-mail address or call Ron Karpel at 650-594-0211 at home. Cost of site is $6/night.

Irish Canyons

Peak:            Irish Canyons
Dates:          June 4-6, 2004 (Fri-Sun)
Leader:        Ted and Connie, 480-961-0370

Irish Canyons of the North Wash (located near Hanksville, Utah). The conservation theme for this trip will be ongoing discussion of drought conditions in the Southwest and the effect on the Colorado River ecosystem.

Maidenwater Canyon

Peaks:          Maidenwater Canyon
Dates:           June 4, 2004 (Fri)
Leader:         Ted and Connie, 480-961-0370

This is a very physical canyoneering adventure requiring constant downclimbing, wading, stemming, chimneying and the possibility of a short swim near the finish. There will be at least 5 rappels (or more) up to 30-feet. Long sleeve shirt and long pants are strongly recommended or you will leave some skin on the canyon walls. Please waterproof your gear and bring a change of clothes for after the hike.

Zion Canyoneering

Peaks:          Zion Canyoneering (Utah)
Dates:           June 18-20 (Fri-Sun)
Leader:         Ted and Connie, 480-961-0370

Conservation theme for this trip will be ongoing discussion of the latest revisions to the Zion Nation Park general management plan.

June 18th, Misery Canyon: This is a long canyoneering adventure that will take us beyond Checkerboard Mesa all the way to the East Fork of the Virgin River and back. Requires scrambling, downclimbing, stemming, wading, swimming, and several rappels up to 60-feet. Wetsuits may be advisable for those who chill easily. Please waterproof your gear and bring a change of clothes for after the hike. The hike out may be hot and dry, so bring plenty of water.

June 19th, Birch Hollow rappel hike: This canyoneering adventure features about 10 rappels up to 100-feet. There will be bushwacking, scrambling, downclimbing, and possibly some wading. The hike out may be hot and dry, so bring plenty of water.

June 20th, Keyhole Canyon rappel hike: This is a half-day canyoneering adventure contingent on us drawing enough permits from the Zion lottery system. There will be scrambling, downclimbing, wading, swimming, and a few rappels up to 30-feet. Wetsuits may be advisable for those who chill easily. Please waterproof your gear and bring a change of clothes for after the hike.

Private Trips

Private trips may be submitted directly to the Scree Editor, but are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra Club. They are listed here because they may be of interest to PCS members. 

Birch Society

Peaks:          Birch Mountain (13,602'), Mount Tinemaha (12,520')
Dates:           Apr 2-4 (Fri-Sun)
Difficulty:       Class 2, ice axe, crampons, skis, snowshoes, snow travel.
Contact:    Aaron Schuman, climberaaron@comcast.net

Two big peaks, both just east of the Sierra crest, are dusty and thirsty in the summer, but in April, they are a pleasure to do as an early spring snow climb. We'll make our approach up Tinemaha Creek, camp two nights at a flat site near the creek headwaters, climb Birch from the south and Tinemaha from the north.

Note: This trip is filled but, there is a waiting list.

Diamond Peak

Peaks:          Diamond Peak (13,127')
Dates:           May 22-23, 2004 (Sat-Sun)
Difficulty:       Class 2, snowshoes, ice axe
Contact:    Bob Suzuki, SuzukiR@sd-star.com, 3646 El Grande Ct., San Jose, 95132, w: 408-918-2588, h: 408-259-0772

Ample soft snow may make for a strenuous backpack to camp. Otherwise, this should be a straightforward climb with a long drive home. Some snow travel experience required, and a $10 deposit to cover cost of the permit (forfeited if cancel, difference refunded at TH).

Needham or Bust

Peaks:          Needham Mtn (12,520+')
Dates:           June 12-13, 2004 (Sat-Sun)
Difficulty:       Class 2s3, ice axe, crampons
Map:              Mineral King topo
Contact:    Bob Suzuki, SuzukiR@sd-star.com, 3646 El Grande Ct., San Jose, 95132, w: 408-918-2588, h: 408-259-0772

Needham Mountain, for various reasons, has eluded previous attempts to stand on it's coveted summit. With cooperation of the weather, this weekend will finally be different.

Planned is a pleasant backpack from Mineral King up to Crystal Lake. Sunday morning we'll climb and descend an 11,500', possibly snowy, ridge above camp, traverse past Amphitheater Lake, and successfully ascend the south slope of Needham Mountain. Ice axe and crampons required; also a $10 deposit to cover cost of the permit (forfeited if cancel, difference refunded at TH).

Iron Mountain

Peaks:          Iron Mtn. (11,148')
Dates:           June 26-28, 2004 (Sat-Mon)
Difficulty:       Class 2, ice axe, crampons
Map:              Cattle Mtn, Mt Ritter topos
Contact:    Bob Suzuki, SuzukiR@sd-star.com, 3646 El Grande Ct., San Jose, 95132, w: 408-918-2588, h: 408-259-0772

Iron Mtn sits at the southern end of the Ritter Range and the Minarets. We'll approach this less visited area of the Range via the Fern Lake Trail, starting from within Devils Postpile National Monument. This climb will be attempted in the 2-day weekend. However, we'll have the optional day if snow conditions make for slower progress. Ice axe, crampons and group bear canisters required, snowshoes will depend on conditions. Also required, a $10 deposit to cover cost of the permit (forfeited if cancel, difference refunded at TH).

Nepal/ Chulu West Climb + Trek

Peaks:          Chulu West (21,752'), Trek Manang Region
Dates:           Oct 4-24 (Mon-Sun)
Difficulty:       Trekkers Peak Class A, Moderate to Difficult (Or Trekkers Can Skip Peak)
Location:    Nepal - Manang Region
Contact:    Warren Storkman, Dstorkman@aol.com

This trip to Chulu West (21,752') is a Class A trekkers peak from the Manang region of the Annapurna Circuit. We would leave for Nepal early October 2004. Trek Charges are US $1045.00 per person 16 day trek also covers internal air. Peak permit is US $350.00 for up to 4 persons – above 4 persons US $40.00 each. Extra Sherpa equipment allowance US $250.00 each sherpa. After peak climb the group will cross the Thorung La foot pass to reach the Jomson airport and then fly back to KTM. On the way to Jomson we'll visit Kagbini, a village that is the same as it was 500 years ago. Those who only want to do the trek without the peak climb are also welcome.

Aconcagua 22,800 Argentina

Peaks:          Aconcagua
Dates:           December 28, 2004
Contact:    Warren Storkman, Dstorkman@aol.com

A difficult walk-up to the highest peak in South America

First Aid Classes

Editor’s Note: The following courses are either taught by Bobbie Foster of FosterCalm or are sponsored by her organization. These are listed hear because they should be of interest to PCS members. This information was sent to me by Debbie Benham

Adult CPR

Date:              April 13, Tue, 6:00 PM –10:00 PM
Location:    UCSF San Francisco
Contact:     Outdoors Unlimited at 415-476-2078 for registration info or contact Bobbie Foster at bobbie@fostercalm.com

Patient Asessment Skills

Date:              April 14, Wed, 7:00 PM- 10:00 PM
Location:    UCSF San Francisco
Contact:     Outdoors Unlimited at 415-476-2078 for registration info or contact Bobbie Foster at bobbie@fostercalm.com

Free Seminar sponsored by Outdoors Unlimited, and UCSF San Francisco. Come practice your patient assessment skills ... fun and a great review.

Wilderness Medicine Seminar

Date:              April 24, Sat 8:30 to 5:00 PM
Location:    UCSF Medical Center
Contact:     info@backtoearth.org or 510-528-3987, FAX 510-2179707, www.backtoearth.org
Mail:              Back to Earth 1801, Rose St. #5, Berkeley, CA 94703

The Wilderness Medical Society is an international, non-profit organization of physicians and wilderness educators. Registration includes a copy of the WMS Practice Guidelines for Wilderness Emergency Care, 2nd Edition, 2001 and many handouts. Our speakers will bring you up to date on emergency care for travel and outdoor activities. Registration at door: $50. More information: www.wildernessemergencycare.com. . Advance registration discount until 4/16: $45 general and $40 with proof of membership in a sponsoring organization: Wilderness Medical Society, Sierra Club, or National Ski Patrol.

Great Info by Many Experts Listed as Follows:

Food & Waterborne Disease by Mark Stinson, MD
What diseases can you get from contaminated food or water in wilderness and foreign travel? What are your options for disinfecting water, and how well do the different methods work?

Heat Illness by Mark Stinson, MD
Warm weather and vigorous activity can cause heat illness, unless you know how to protect yourself. How does the body cool itself, what can you can do to help, and how can you recognize and treat heat illnes

Wilderness Wound & Burn Care by Steve Donelan & Mark Stinson, MD
How do you clean and protect wounds, control pain, and reduce the risk of infection in the wilderness?

Wound Care & Bandaging Workshop by Mark Stinson, MD & WFR instructors
In a wilderness situation, you need to be able to clean wounds effectively to prevent infection, and apply bandages that will stay on during a long walkout or evacuation. We’ll practice irrigating simulated wounds and bandaging all parts of the body, using cravats and gauze rollers.

Herbal First Aid by Charles Garcia
There are many useful as well as potentially harmful plants in the wilderness. How can you identify them and use them to treat injuries and medical problems?

Bites & Stings by Snakes & Insects by Steve Donelan
Every contiguous state except Maine has venomous snakes, and their bites can do serious damage. Bites and stings by spiders, bees, and other arthropods can also have serious effects. What are the hazards, how can you avoid them, and what should you do if you are stun

Mark Stinson is Associate Clinical Professor at the University of California Davis School of Medicine and practices at Contra Costa Regional Medical Center. He is Medical Team Manager of the Oakland FEMA urban search & rescue team, and has been involved in disaster responses and adventure medicine all over the world.

Charles Garcia is Director of the California School of Traditional Hispanic Herbalism. He lectures at the University of California, Berkeley, California State University at San Marcos, and the San Francisco Healthcare Consortium.

Steve Donelan teaches, develops wilderness courses and trains instructors for many organizations. His Wilderness Emergency Care textbook and Instructor’s Guide are published by the American Safety & Health Institute (www.ashinstitute.com). See his web site for more information: www.wildernessemergencycare.com.

Elected Officials

    Pat Callery / pcs-chair@climber.org
    1225 Bracebridge Court
    Campbell, CA 95008
    408-871-8702 home

Vice Chair and Trip Scheduler:
    Linda Sun / lindasun@sbcglobal.net
    P. O. Box 3208
    Saratoga, CA 95070

Treasurer and Membership Roster (address changes):
    Jeff Fisher / han1cannae@msn.com
    876 Lewis Avenue
    Sunnyvale, CA 94086

Publicity Committee Positions

Scree Editor:
     Bob Bynum / pcs-editor@climber.org
     510-659-1413 home

PCS World Wide Web Publisher:
     Roger Dettloff/ pcs_web_roger@pacbell.net
     Redwood City, CA

Publicity Chair:
     Arun Mahajan / pcs-pub-chair@climber.org
     650-327-8598 home
     1745 Alma Street, Palo Alto, CA 94301

Scree is the monthly journal of the Peak Climbing Section of the Sierra Club, Loma Prieta Chapter.

Our official website is http://lomaprieta.sierraclub.org/pcs/

Subscriptions and Email List Info

Hard copy subscriptions are $13. Subscription applications and checks payable to “PCS” should be mailed to the Treasurer so they arrive before the last Tuesday of the expiration month. If you are on the official email list (lomap-pcs-announce@lists.sierraclub.org) or  the email list the PCS feeds (pcs-issues@climber.org), you have a free EScree subscription. For email list details, send "info lomap-pcs-announce" to "listserv@lists.sierraclub.org", or send anything to "info@climber.org". EScree subscribers should send a subscription form to the Treasurer to become voting PCS members at no charge. The Scree is on the web as both plain text and fully formatted Adobe Acrobat/PDF.

Rock Climbing Classifications

The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing trips for which you are qualified. No simple rating system can anticipate all possible conditions.
     Class 1: Walking on a trail.
     Class 2: Walking cross-country, using hands for balance.
     Class 3: Requires use of hands for climbing, rope may be used.
     Class 4: Requires rope belays.
     Class 5: Technical rock climbing.

Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 4/25/2004  •  Meetings are the 2nd Tuesday of each month.

Peak Climbing Section, 789 Daffodil Way, San Jose CA 95117

"Vy can't ve chust climb?" - John Salathe