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 March, 2001        Peak Climbing Section, Loma Prieta Chapter, Sierra Club Vol. 35 No. 3

World Wide Web Address: http://www.sierraclub.org/chapters/lomaprieta/pcs

Next General Meeting

Date:          Tuesday, March 13

Time:          8:00 PM

Program:        Summer Olympics- Climbing Mt. Olympus, by Kai Wiedman

The king of the Olympics, the triple-crowned and glacier clad 7,965 ft. Mt. Olympus thrusts its crest far above the green rain forest.  Follow Cecil and Kai on a 55 mile traverse from the Hoh River rain forest to the icy summit of Mt. Olympus. This will interest people wishing to climb a major glaciated peak with a minimum of skill and equipment.

Location         Western Mountaineering

Directions:     From 101: Exit at San Thomas Expressway, Go South to El Camino Real. Turn left and the Western Mountaineering will be immediately to your right. Limited parking back.

Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 3/25/2001 Meetings are the 2nd Tuesday of each month.

Hydration Facts

Some interesting info for active people.

     75% of Americans are chronically dehydrated.

    In 37% of Americans, the thirst mechanism is so weak that it is often mistaken for hunger.

     Even MILD dehydration will slow down one's metabolism as much as 3%.

     One glass of water shut down midnight hunger pangs for almost 100% of the dieters studied in a U-Washington study.

     Lack of water, the #1 trigger of daytime fatigue.

     Preliminary research indicates that 8-10 glasses of water a day could significantly ease back and joint pain for up to 80% of sufferers.

     A mere 2% drop in body water can trigger fuzzy short-term  memory,  trouble with basic math, and difficulty focusing on the computer screen or on a printed page.

     Drinking 5 glasses of water daily decreases the risk of colon cancer by

     45%, plus it can slash the risk of breast cancer by 79%, and one is 50% less likely to develop bladder cancer.

Chicks With Picks Seminar

February 2 – 6, 2001

Ouray, Colorado

A few years ago I tried ice climbing in Lee Vining canyon and spent two days just trying to stay warm enough to hold onto the ice axes.  I never got both feet off the ground.  So when I heard about the Chicks With Picks seminar I could not imagine paying money and flying all the way to Colorado to spend four days repeating that experience.  Thanks to the persistence of my husband, Rick, I decided to give ice climbing one more try.

The Chicks With Picks seminar is the brainchild of Kim Reynolds, an organizational genius.  The motto of the seminar is “women climbing with women, for women”.  The emphasis is not only on training women to be self-sufficient in the outdoors but also to give back to the community.  Kim works as a guide for San Juan Mountain guides and is a program director for the Colorado Outward Bound School during the summer months.  She won the pure water ice competition in the Ouray Ice Festival, competed in the first Winter X-Games and since 1998 has raised $65,000 for a safe house for girls in Nepal called the Friendship House as expedition leader on a Himalayan first ascent.  The Chicks With Picks seminar and its supporters raises money for the Tri County Resource Center in Ouray.  She definitely walks the talk.

Ouray is a charming, sleepy town southwest of Denver.  Its big tourist season is summer but it manages to do a modest business during the winter because of the ice park located in a portion of the Uncompahgre Gorge. The Ouray area is home to some of the world's most beautiful natural ice routes.  In 1994 pipes were run up to the rock wall canyon where every night the walls of the canyon are sprayed with water creating ice routes of various steepness.

I arrived in Montrose on Friday and carpooled to Ouray with two other “Chicks”, as we came to call ourselves.  We met our guides for the next four days.  All climbers and mountaineers with very impressive resumes.  Some I recognized from the climbing journals and the rest I soon realized were just as accomplished.  The participants turned out to be equally amazing women. Triathletes, adventure racers, an Eco Challenge participant, and a deaf woman who has summited Denali, Elbrus and Aconcagua.  Her aspirations are to be the first deaf woman to climb Everest.

There were 18 participants divided into six groups ranging in levels of experience from beginner to advanced.  My instructor was Angela Hawse, a guide from Seattle who leads trips to Nepal, has been to the south summit of Everest and is director of The Wind Horse Legacy, a non-profit educational foundation.  Teaching seems second nature to her and her encouragement not only got me off the ground, but to the top many times with style and confidence. 

I would encourage any woman who has considered trying ice climbing or who is an expert ice climber to attend the Chicks With Picks seminar.  It offers a myriad of experiences not only in ice climbing but in relationships with other women.

For more information on the seminar see http://www.chickswithpicks.net

• Dee Booth

The Endless Climb of

Jerzy Kukuczka

Book Review: My Vertical World Climbing the 8000 Metre Peaks, by Jerzy Kukuczka; translated by Andrew Wielochowski (August 1992 edition), Mountaineers Books. Hardcover, 189 p.

My Vertical World is Jerzy Kukuczka's autobiography, translated from his native Polish into English. Even translated, the book reads like some heroic Norse saga with Jerzy striding through it like a doomed Odin.

In the beginning of the book, Reinhold Messner says of Jerzy, "you are not second, you are great". Great praise indeed for the second person, after Messner, to wear the 'Crown of the Himalaya', a title for those who have climbed to the top of all the fourteen 8000 meter peaks in the world, all in the Himalaya. Jerzy did them all and that too by either blazing new routes or in the winter, and always without supplemental oxygen.

The book is divided into chapters, the first, typical of Jerzy, it seems, describing his early days in Poland in a very brief manner. Then the next fourteen chapters describe his successful summit ascents to each of the 8000 meter peaks, from Lhotse, his first to Shish Pangma, his last.

The press played up the artificial race between him and Messner to be the first to do the 8000 m peaks. Jerzy is always humble and regards Messner as his superior. He is no jock mountaineer in search of glory, nor does he go into complex reasons that make him want to climb. He just seems to love to climb the high peaks, the Himalayas more than another.

Jerzy talks about being a young man desiring to travel to the far away Himalaya to climb. He describes the incredible privation and hardship that he had to undergo to scrounge money and food in the days of the Solidarity movement in Poland where he was in danger of being considered a food hoarder. However, all he was doing was salting away food for his next Himalayan trip. He talks about how he and his climbing friends would raise the precious zoltys by offering to paint rusting chimneys of factories and saving on the cost of scaffolding by using climbing ropes instead.

To me, the most incredible climbing done by Jerzy is his winter climb of Dhaulagiri. Here he describes his solo descent into a village in an unknown valley with feet rotting away from infection and frostbite. The villagers simply would not believe his story because no one had ever been in that valley before. Then without much rest, he met up with the Cho Oyu expedition and blazed a first winter ascent of Cho Oyu via the unclimbed South East Pillar.

A summary, in his own words, 'There is no answer in this book to the endless questions about the point of expeditions to the Himalayan giants. I never found a need to explain this. I went to the mountains and climbed them. That is all.”

• Arun Mahajan

Notes and Requests

Editor’s Note: After not appearing in the Scree for several years, I am reinstating the Notes and Requests section. This is where PCS members can place classified ads or other requests.

• Bob Bynum, Scree Editor

Avalanche Beacon Wanted

Wanted:  457 kHz avalanche beacon - one to rent for latter part of May, or buy at reasonable price.  Please contact Bill Isherwood, (W) <bi@llnl.gov>, (925) 423-5058; or (home) <Bill@Isherwoods.net>, (925) 254-0739.

Share Your Outdoor Knowledge

To everyone who has spent lots of time outside:

Do you love the wilderness?  Do you want to help others enjoy the backcountry like you do?  The Outdoor Education Program (OEP) is currently looking for applicants to instruct for our program.  OEP is a Stanford class in the Geology/Environmental Sciences Department (advised by Prof. Dennis Bird), and it is entirely student-run.  If you have extensive experience backpacking, rock climbing, backcountry skiing, or mountaineering, and have planned your own backcountry excursions, ideally leading others on trips, you are encouraged to apply to be an instructor.

You do not need experience in ALL of these areas, but the more you have the better.  First aid training is especially helpful.  Professional training (such as Outward Bound or NOLS) is by no means required, but is certainly a good thing.

In short, if you are an experienced enough outdoorsperson that you could TEACH your skills to total beginners and be good at it (leadership and teaching abilities are at least as much of a priority as hard skills), we want you.  We teach a basic class in autumn and winter quarters, and an advanced class (focused on mountaineering and group leadership) in the spring.  Instructors teach a few evening classes and help lead one trip each quarter.  To apply, go to www.stanford.edu/class/ges7  and click on the "instructor application" link.  Email your application to oep-teachers@lists.stanford.edu, which is coincidentally also the address to which any further questions should be directed.  Being an instructor is loads of fun, come join us!!

2001 Political Committee

On Tuesday, February 27, the Political of the Loma Prieta Chapter met to determine action items for the year. We discussed the various endorsements that we made last year plus goals for 2001. One of the issues that I brought up was that the political committee needs to pay more attention to outing sections’ issues. I will give more information later.

• Bob Bynum, Scree Editor and Political Committee Member

Scree Input Wanted

The Scree is your newsletter. You, the PCS member, determine its content. In the past I have used trip reports, trip announcements and gear discussions. as material.

We need to have those of you who are leaders lead official PCS trips. Also we need more of you to become leaders.

If there is anything that any of you specifically want in the Scree, please send it to me.

• Bob Bynum, Scree Editor

PCS Trips

PCS trips must be submitted through the Scheduler (see back cover for details). Trips not received from the Scheduler will be listed as PRIVATE, without recourse.

Mt. Sizer

Peak:            Mt Sizer class-1 (3,216 ft.980 meters)
Dates:          March 4th (Sunday)
Leaders:      Ron Karpel, ronny@karpel.org
                      Nancy Fitzsimmons
                      Pkclimber@aol.com (H)408-957-9681

March 4 Mt Sizer, Henry Coe- Sun. This is a wonderful loop with great vistas from the ridge. It will be 15+ miles and over 3000 ft of gain. Carpool 7:30am at Cubberly High in Palo Alto (Middlefield & Montrose), or 7:45 at the Park&Ride on Cottle & 85, or at

Meet at Henry Coe Park Headquarters, 8:30am.  Heavy rain cancels. This trip is co-listed with the Day Hikers.

A Mexico Adventure

January 10, 2001

On January 10, 2001 the Gruppo Alpino de Tres Amigos consisting of Chris Keller, Shawn Boom and myself, Nels Johnson, gathered in Mexico City to climb the 3rd (El Pico de Orizaba, 18,408 ft.) and 7th (Iztaccihuatl, 17,159 ft.) highest peaks in North America.

We utilized the modern, clean, efficient and unbelievably cheap public bus system to move ourselves and our incredibly huge mound of gear around to the various cities that would serve as our base stations for the climbs.

On the morning of Sunday, January 11th, we headed south to the city of Amecameca to launch our summit bid on Iztaccihuatl.  Since Popocatepetl, the 5th highest peak in North America and very close neighbor to Izta, has been making international news by threatening to erupt, the standard route up Izta (via La Joya and La Arista de Luz) was closed.  As our alternate route we chose the Directa el Pecho up the northwest side of the mountain.  This route requires access on 4wd roads leading up from the city of San Rafael. We immediately set about finding someone who could provide this service.  In the town of Amecameca there is a well known mountain guide and member of the local rescue service nicknamed Tlaxquicha.  We arranged to meet him next morning at the Zocalo to drive us up to the trail and back for a days acclimatization hike.  The following day after the acclimatization hike he would drive us up early in the morning and pick us up late in the day as we made our summit bid.

The next morning dawned bright and beautiful.  While waiting in the square we met another American couple, Kristin and Rolf, who were planning on climbing Izta via the Ayoloco Glacier route.  They had contracted with Senor Cortez for their 4wd shuttle service up the same roads we planned to use. Both shuttle services arrived at the same time.  Somehow, both groups ended going up with Senor Cortez.  Why, I am not sure as my Espanol is not exactly in the fluent category.  However, Senor Cortez provided an excellent service to us all and was very dependable and hospitable.  So, off we all went up the bumpy and very dusty roads towards the trails leading up to the summit of Izta.  Kristin and Rolf planned on overnighting in the area of the Ayoloco hut and then summiting early the next morning.  Our days acclimatization hike headed up Loma Larga, past the Laminas Hut and an hour shy of the Chalchoapan Hut.

The next morning Senor Cortez showed up exactly at 4am, the agreed upon hour.  We headed up the bumpy and dusty roads in the dark and we were on the trail before sunrise.  However, within 15 mins. of the start, it became very obvious to me that my legs did not have what was necessary to carry me to the summit.  I decided to bail then and there and save what remained in the legs for the climb on El Pico de Orizaba.  Chris and Shawn headed on and I headed back.  I spent the rest of the day waiting with Senor Cortez who showed me a very beautiful hidden ice fall and cooked me a delicious Desayuno (breakfast).  I also spent endless hours scanning the route with binoculars looking for my friends.  Both Chris and Shawn moved upward quickly and strongly.  They passed the Chalchoapan hut and headed for the Routa Directa al Pecho.  As they started up this route it became a bit dicey and they traversed left to the route La Arista del Luz.  When Shawn reached the saddle between the La Cabeza and El Pecho he was having intimate knowledge of high altitude sickness.  Shawn settled in while Chris went for the summit.  200 meters from the summit Chris came across hard and slick ice.  Not being fully familiar with the abilities of crampons and realizing there would be no self rescue being by himself if he slipped, he wisely decided to turn around and climb another day.  So ended our summit bid on Izta.  Score - Mexico's volcanos 1, Tres Amigos 0.

Next morning, January 17th, we boarded the bus and headed for the town of Tlachichuca, which serves as the launching point for El Pico de Orizaba.  We stayed at Hotel Gerrer and contracted with Senor Gerrera for 4wd services to Piedra Grande, the climbers hut up high on El Pico de Orizaba.  Mr. Gerrera's hotel and 4wd services were very friendly, spotlessly clean and dependable. On January 18th we moved up to Piedra Grande and decided on a 1:30am awakening to start our summit bid.  The hut was abuzz with activity, groups leaving and groups arriving.  Much beta about the route was passed along.  The glacier has been receding significantly and has left a headwall to surmount which has a dangerous combination of ice and rock.  There evidently is no good route through this area, only some which are worse than others.  Supper was eaten, beds laid out and entered and the lights turned out for a few hours sleep before the early morning start.  Well, so much for sleep.  Piedra Grande is infested with mice and we spent long dark hours listening to them rustle through food sacks and chewing on expensive packs and gear instead of enjoying sweet dreams of climbing glaciers.

After eons of laying awake in the dark hut listening to the strong winds slam the loose tin roof around, the alarms finally went off and we dutifully rolled out of our sleeping bags along with the Italian climbers which would be the only other climbing group on the mountain that day.  We quickly ate our breakfast of cheese and avocado sandwiches, bananas and snickers bars, pulled on our finest and heaviest cold weather gear and headed out the door intently focused on reaching the summit this time, by God or else!  After fifteen minutes into our hike we realized we were WAY over dressed and started stripping down and stashing clothing to be retrieved on the way down.  Okay, now we're set.  "Onward" we yelled, bugles blowing in the wind for us we were sure.  Following the well worn dirt path upwards in the dark was an easy task and soon enough we reached the dreaded and fearsome headwall.  No exaggerations had been told about it.  It was nasty and treacherous, indeed.  After some belaying each other over icy spots and chopping steps across a few slippery spots we reached the glacier just as the sun was coming up and we were clamping on our crampons and tying onto our rope.  The summit looked very near and we were sure we would reach it in short time.  As we climbed towards it we watched the sun rise above the clouds below and cast its' warm and rose colored glow on all things in its' domain, including us.  We felt blessed, fully charged and now KNEW the summit would be ours.  Just not as quickly as what we had first assumed. After a couple of false summits and tiring 54 year old legs which caused me to spent more time traversing sideways than upwards, my young 20 something climbing partners took over and lead a beeline for the summit.  We finally stepped onto the dirt summit of the 3rd highest peak in North America!  Ta Da!

A couple of quick pictures, some looking out over the horizon at the peaks of Izta, Popo and La Malinche sticking up above the clouds and we headed back down the steep and slippery glacier.  My thoughts started turning from the job at hand and instead towards various video clips of the climb that kept sliding through my eyes.  Tired legs kept churning out plunge steps towards the valley far, far below.  And then - - - tired legs allowed crampons to interlock and I was down in a flash and in an unbelievably fast slide down the glacier.  I was desperately trying to self arrest but could not get on top of the mountain axe!  Ice chips merely flew off the end of the pick instead of it grasping deeply into the ice.  I must have jammed the points of my crampons into the ice as I was soon doing back flips down the glacier.  Then back onto my stomach and still struggling to self arrest but to no avail as I very rapidly continued to slide towards the rocks waiting below.  Then - - the rope snapped taught and I stopped.  My friends had seen my dangerous situation and had reacted perfectly.  They fell face first onto the glacier, dug in the pick of their mountain axe and points of their crampons and when the rope ran out my friends stayed stuck to the glacier. Distant voices yelled to me to "assume the self rescue position".  I crawled on top of my mountain axe, buried my crampon points and was content to lay there breathing heavily into the glacier.  The rope went slack, this time I stayed stuck and soon enough concerned friends were at my side willing to administer to my needs.  A bruised arm and ribs, although bothersome, did not prevent me from arising and continuing unaided the descent to Piedra Grande.  The headwall was again a challenge to surmount but proved doable. After a long, long hike down my tired legs gratefully stepped onto the concrete aquaduct that lead the final few steps back to the hut.  Right on time Senor Gerrera appeared and we headed back to Tlachichua.

The last couple of days were spent in the charming and beautiful town of Tlaxcala.  We shopped the artisan markets, ate delicious Mexican foods and drank copious amounts of cerveza to celebrate our trip.  We found Mexico to be filled with friendly and gracious people, a very rich and interesting culture and prices unbelievably cheap.

The final score - Mexico's volcanos 1, Tres Amigos 1.  Fair enough!

• Nels Johnson

Gear: Lightweight Alpine Packs

The objective: a multi-pitch rock climb or ice climb in the Sierras requiring hiking at least one day to get either to the base or near the base of the route.  The route is technical and requires a rope, pro, shoes, and is complicated by a steep snow descent requiring an ice axe and probably crampons.  Even with light weight summer sleeping bags (if the trip is in the summer) and bivy bags the pile of gear sitting in the middle of the living room floor Wednesday evening is downright formidable.  The question is how to move all this stuff into base camp and then how much of this junk gets carried on the route itself.

The problem comes down to the pack or possibly two packs.  The solution to the above problem seems to be addressed with two techniques: one, use a pack big enough to get all that junk inside and then (hopefully) it may be adjusted to use on the rock or ice route itself and two, use two packs, one big enough to haul all that junk and then a smaller one for the route itself.  The rational for the second method is the large pack is almost always a heavy and bulky pain to deal with.  I have tried both the single pack method and the two pack method and I am not too crazy about either one.  The problem with sizing the second pack is the variability of the application.  In general one ice axe loop is good enough but ice routes are a little easier with two.  The volume of the pack needs to cover two quarts of water, rain gear, lunch, possibly a fleece garment, and possibly the room to carry the approach shoes or boots.  These are tough requirements for a day of ascent pack that should weigh less than two pounds.  A request for suggestions for lightweight alpine packs was put out on gear@climber.org and the responses were very interesting and several new suppliers of packs identified.

The dividing line for the definition of the carried second pack suitable for use on alpine routes was set at about 2 pounds.  Packs heavier than that were judged to be too heavy to use as the day of ascent pack unless they also happen to be useful enough to be the main gear hauling pack.

The volume for the following packs has a range of values depending on whether the shroud is pulled out and possibly if the side pocket volume is counted.  In order to determine the exact volume of the enumerated packs the actual data from the manufacturer should be consulted.  The following should serve as a starting point.

Under Two Pounds

a. ArcTeryx Khamsin 30, 2 lbs 1 ounce (ok, over 2 lbs), volume 1450 to 2320 inches.  Arun uses a larger version, the Khamsin 50, for ice climbing and likes the larger version.  The particular Khamsin 50 is apparently no longer available.  The Arcteryyx web site is at http://www.arcteryx.com/

b. Golite Breeze,  12 to 15 ounces depending on the source, volume 2700 to 4500 cubic inches.  This suggestion came from Ron Hudson.  These packs are made with SpectraCloth or SpectraCloth mix of some sort. Golite is in Boulder, Co at 888-546-5483 and www.golite.com.

c. LaFuma Activ Light 37, 1 lb 10 ounces, volume 2165 cubic inches. This pack is one of mine and was purchased from the Sierra Trading Post (www.sierratradingpost.com) and has about the right volume and weight. It has one ice axe loop and a nice top pocket for putting little widgets and stuff.

d. MountainTools JetStream, 12 ounces, volume 1500 cubic inches.  Jim Curl and I have used this pack.  This is the pack which requires you to work on in order to keep the clips from disappearing off the ends.  The ends are turned over and sewn but it isn't enough.  It has two ice axe loops and a bunch of loops on the back for hanging extra gear.  This pack does not appear to be available anymore.  See www.mountaintools.com or 831-620-0911 in Carmel.

e. Vaude Impulse, 2 lbs, volume 1500 cubic inches.  The manufacturer of this pack was suggested by Arun.  This pack does not seem to have any attachment points or ice axe loops.  Vaude seems to be imported  and information can be found at www.vaude.com.

f. Black Diamond Zippo Pack, 1 lb 8 ounces, volume 1650 cubic inches. Ron Karpel suggested including some information about Black Diamond in the survey, however, nobody responded who uses their stuff.  The site is at www.blackdiamondequipment.com.

Over Two Pounds

a. Lowe Alpine Contour 40, 2 lbs 3 ounces, volume 2400 cubic inches. This pack was suggested by Allan Ritter.  I also have one of these packs but use it mostly for day hiking.  It appears to be optimized for ski touring since it has many features for carrying skis and skiing stuff. This is a popular pack in the Bay area and is often on sale at the Sierra Trading Post.  Lowe Alpine is found at www.lowealpine.com. b.

b. Granite Gear Alpine, 2 lbs 15 ounces, volume 3200 cubic inches.  This pack was suggested by Kevin Craig.  This pack appears to have many features including tool tubes, gear loops on the webbing belt, removable foam pad as the frame support, daisy chains, etc.  This pack also has a smaller sibling known as the Talus which weighs 1 lb 15 ounces and has 2400 cubic inches of volume.  Granite Gear can be found at www.granitegear.com.

c. Arcteryx Nozone, 5 lbs.  Also suggested by Kevin.  Not much data on this one but recommended.

d. Madden Jambo, 2 lb 10 ounces, volume  2150 cubic inches.  Suggested by zfto@aol.com (no name).  This pack is available from an on-line distributor at www.ewalker.com or 888-241-1864.  This company does not appear to maintain a web site.

e. Lowe Alpine Attack 50, 3 lbs 8 ounces, volume unknown (fairly large).  This pack is used by Ron Karpel and myself.  It appears to be no longer available so I could not get volume information.  Too bad because this is a great pack.  It has a lot of features, most of which may be removed if necessary.  It came with a Camelback water system which I took out and the left over pockets hold the ToolBox with the gnarly crampons just fine.

Editor’s Note: The Alpine Attack 50 doesn’t appears on Lowe’s website. They still make a model called the Alpine Attack 40. It weighs 3lbs. 6.4 ounces and has a volume of 40 liters (2400 cu. In) I use the Lowe Alpine Attack Summit. See www.lowealpine.com.

f. Wild Things Ice Sac, 3 lbs 4 ounces, volume 3200 cubic inches.  This pack was suggested by Christopher Jain and Elmer Martin.  Wild Things seems to have a line of packs in this range including the Andanista which is somewhat larger.  Wild Things is in Conway, NH at 603-447-6907 and www.wildthingsgear.com.

g. Cold Cold World Chaos, 3 lbs 8 ounces, volume 4300 cubic inches. This pack was suggested by Mark Wallace.  Cold Cold World does not seem to have a web site but a dealer in these packs is www.backcountry-equipment.com or 888-779-5075.  The Cold Cold World Chernobyl was also mentioned.


a. Kelty was suggested but their web site makes it impossible to determine the weight of a pack since it seems to list only the weight of the components.  I could not determine what a pack would weigh by using their information.  Kelty uses the new SpectraCloth and its variants and this stuff seems to be the ticket for low weight and high strength. GoLite seems to be another user of this material.  Kelty was suggested by Sean McKeown.

This data was collected from e-mail responses and many of these packs I have no first hand experience with, however, the data here should be of value to all of us looking for the next step to the "holy grail" of packs,  infinite volume and versatility at no weight!  Thanks to all who took the time to respond.

• Rick Booth

Mt. Everest Hotel?

Capitalist Monuments in Tibet and China Sing Tao Daily, January 11, 2001

According to the Sing Tao Daily of Jan. 11, a New Zealander has cleared all the bureaucratic hurdles and is getting set to start building the  highest altitude hotel  in the world. It will be  built on the Tibetan  side of Mt. Everest or,  as it is called in  Tibetan,  Chomulangma at an  altitude of 21,648 feet.  The hotel will have 52  rooms at around US$100 a night.

The New Zealander whose name from the Chinese transcription appears to be Brice or Price has climbed Mt. Everest 20 times from both the Nepal and Tibetan sides. He got the idea for such a hotel when he saw a Swedish climber set up a base camp on the Chomulangma side. He works with a Nepalese entrepreneur. The project will cost around US$3.2 million. Representatives of the China-Tibet Mountain Climbers Association are in support of the venture.

But many environmentalists and mountain climbers in and out of China oppose the project. They say it will attract many tourists that will result in substantial accumulations of debris as has happened on the Nepali side.

Perhaps this entrepreneur should learn from others who have tried this idea in the past. About 20 years ago, the Japanese built the Everest View Hotel in Nepal, several miles from Everest, above the village of Namche Bazaar. It was around 12,500'. Visitors flew in by helicopter. It was not a very pleasant place and people got sick a lot. They closed it down very quickly.

Private Trips

Private trips may be submitted directly to the Scree Editor, but are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra Club. They are listed here because they may be of interest to PCS members.

Coast Range Peaks

Peaks:          San Benito Mtn. (5,241’), Santa Rita Pk. (5,165’)
Dates:          Sat-Sun, Mar 3-4
Maps:           San Benito 7.5’, Santa Rita 7.5’, Idria 7.5’
Contact:       Mike McDermitt m.mcdermitt@worldnet.att.net, 415-576-1057
                      Steve Eckert   (eckert@climber.org)

From the Snow Mountains north of Clear Lake in Northern California south to the Sierra Madre above Santa Barbara in Southern California, there are very few peaks over 5,000’.  Junipero Sera is the highest, and it has two others quite near it.  Farther inland and slightly to the north are the only other 5,000’ers:  San Benito Mountain and Santa Rita

Peak.  Please note there will be NO WATER for the ENTIRE WEEKEND so bring at least two gallons per person.  Saturday’s hike will be about 11-12 miles and 2,500 net gain; Sunday’s hike will be about 15 miles and 3,100 net gain.

This area is on BLM Land in the Clear Creek Management Area south of Hollister.  The geology is unusual - it is an area that has been and is still being mined for asbestos (yes, asbestos).  Nevertheless it is open for hiking and camping because asbestos is a long-term-exposure hazard more than a one-time risk. Contact us for more information!

Annual Roundtop  Ritual.

Peak:            Roundtop
Date:             March 18, 2001
Details:        Roundtop, 10,381 feet, snow/winter
Contacts:     George Van Gorden: 408-779-2320 (before 9)
                      Arun Mahajan: arun@tollbridgetech.com, 650-327-8598 (after s9an)

Celebrating the arrival of spring, some of like to take a walk up Roundtop every year. So, join us on this private trip. The peak is approached by snow shoes or skis from the Carson Pass and you need ice axe and crampons for the final few hundred feet.

We will meet Sunday morning at Carson Pass snowpark at around 8:00. We should be back to the cars by 3:00.

Please note that the parking at the Carson Pass trailhead is a 'SnoPark', meaning that you need a day-permit, per car, to park there. Permits are to be had at REI and some other outdoor stores and possibly, even the Kirkwood XC Ski Area. There is also a substantial fine if found to be without one.

Kettle and Twin Peaks

Peaks:          Kettle Peak (10004'), Twin Peaks (10479'), class 2 snow
Dates:          Sat-Sun, Mar 24-25
Contact:       Steve Eckert eckert@climber.org

Cabin fever? Don't have 3 days? Want to get in shape for the 3 day trips the next weekend? Join us for a not-too-technical snow climb of two offbeat western sierra peaks. Kettle and Twin overlook the Jennie Lakes Wilderness, just north of Lodgepole. We should have moderately open terrain and lots of big trees, making either skis or snowshoes acceptable. I'll carry a snowboard if someone will give me lessons! We'll pack in about 6 miles (3000' gain) on Saturday, bag one or both peaks in a 5 mile (2000' gain) loop on Sunday, and be back at work on Monday.

Not a trip for complete beginners, ice axe and crampons may be required for hardpack near the summits. If you can do the mileage and have snow camped before, contact me for details.

PRIVATE TRIP - liability waiver required - ATTEND AT YOUR OWN RISK



Note that NEITHER of these peaks are listed in Roper or Secor, these are NOT the Kettle and Twin peaks from farther north! (I'm hoping to explore some new terrain, but the SPS List Peak Silliman is nearby if you want to split off.)


Peak::           Climb Kala Pattar  18,100 ft.
Date:             April 10
Contact:       Warren Storkman, 650-493-8959, dstorkman@aol.com

Peaks in Denali National Park

Peaks:          Peaks in Denali NP north of the main Alaska Range
Date              April 15-18
Contact:       George Van Gorden    408 779 2320, gvangord@mhu.k12.ca.us

We will meet in Anchorage on April 15 and head north.  We will camp in Denali NP and climb minor peaks during fromApril 16-18.  These peaks are 4000 and 5000 feet, snow of course, and we will probably need crampons.  The weather should be good, though snow is possible.  If we get sun, the days should get into the thirties or even forties.  The park will be very empty and we should get some good views of Mckinley.

The days are long with light to at least eleven PM.


Peak::           Mt Kailash and Lhasa
Date:             May for 27 days
Contact:       Warren Storkman, 650-493-8959, dstorkman@aol.com


Peak:            Denali, 20,320 ft.
Date:             May-June 2001
Contact:       Tim Hult 408-970-0760,  Timdhult@aol.com

Looking for qualified partners for this major, no nonsense peak.  Must have extensive experience in the following: high altitude climbing (18,000 ft +), excellent winter camping skills and equipment, proven ability to get along with partners on a multi-week trip. Ice climbing and crevasse rescue will be taught if required. Prefer those with the ability to ski or willingness to learn how to ski with a pack on - need NOT be an expert!  Serious inquires only.


Peak:            Mts Adams & others
Date:             Sat, June 30-31, Class 2 - 3; ice axe and crampons
Contact:       Steve Eckert, mailto:eckert@climber.org
                      Bob Evans, robtwevans@email.msn.com; (408) 998-2857

Part of Cascade volcanos tour; participants are welcome to do only this first half, only Mt. Rainer (see accompanying announcement), or both halves  Then the 3 Sisters traverse (all three) and/or St. Helens day hike depending on group interests and speed.

Mt Rainier

Peak:            Mt. Rainier (14,410); Kautz Glacier Route
Date:             Thru, July 5-Sun, July 8
Contact:       Steve Eckert, eckert@climber.org,
                      Bob Evans, robtwevans@email.msn.com; (408) 998-2857

Glacier travel; 50+ degree snow/ice; fixed ropes to be used; participants to be screened for roped glacier exp.

The prized summit of the Washington State highpoint is the goal of this conclusion to a week in the Cascade volcanos. Participants are welcome to do only Rainier or to join in Adams and others (see accompanying announcement).  For route information, see the trip report of R. Karpel 7/00.  To reserve a park permit with the group, deposit $35 for the NPS fee with Bob before May 1, 01, or take your chances picking up permit without reservation. Meet at Paradise parking lot on Thursday AM, July 5. Return  on Sunday PM, July 8.

Participants will be screened for roped glacier experience - this isNOT the standard route, and some real climbing (plus open crevasses)is certain to happen.


Dates:          Aug 11-19 (Sat-Sun, full week)
Peaks:          Climb-O-Rama (see below, many individual options)
Contact:       Steve Eckert, eckert@climber.org

This year we'll enter via Bear Creek (near Lake Edison, on the west side) and hang out around the many bear lakes (White, Black, Teddy, etc). From this area you'll have access to (in no particular order) Hooper, Senger, Seven Gables, Gemini, Merriam, Royce, Feather, Julius Caesar, Hilgard, Mist, Recess, Volcanic Knob, Gabb, Bear Creek Spire, Dade, Abbot, Mills.

Bear Creek rivals any stream in the Sierra for waterfalls and pools, and the high tundra between Julius Caesar and Seven Gables is the sort of place where you wander from tarn to tarn thinking each is more beautiful than the last. Peaks in the area range from crud piles to surprisingly nice views, and the campsites are second to none.

We'll try to camp together, as always, and split into groups for the peaks based on what people are interested in and how fast they are. Last year's C-o-R was the only one where we didn't get all of our objectives, due to a freak monsoon, so contact me now and help set the agenda for the main group!

Sierra Emblem Challenge

Peaks:          10 Emblem Peaks in 10 Days
Date:             August 2001
Contact:       Bob Burd, snwbord@hotmail.com
                      Steve Keltie, dns306@cs.com

Info:               http://members.nbci.com/snwburd/emblem/

The Sierra Emblem Challenge is a series of dayhikes to the most impressive peaks in the Sierra Nevada. All of these hikes are very strenuous in both miles logged and vertical feet gained. Ten of 15 Emblem Peaks have been chosen for this 10-day event beginning Aug 4, 2001. The Challenge is open to anyone. This is a Wilderness experience, with serious risks that are each participant’s responsibility. No emergency services of any kind is available to those in trouble.

Mt Kilimanjaro

Peak::           Climb Kala Pattar  18,100 ft.
Date:             January 2002
Contact:       Warren Storkman, 650-493-8959, dstorkman@aol.com

Six nights on Kilimanjaro - plus four nights at the Marangu Hotel under $800.00. Safari after trek, optional.

Elected Officials

     Dee Booth/ rdbooth@worldnet.att.net
     408-354-7291 home
     237 San Mateo Avenue, Los Gatos, CA 95030

Vice Chair and Trip Scheduler:
     Nancy Fitzsimmons / pkclimber@aol.com
     408-957-9683 home
     1025 Abbott Avenue, Milpitas, CA 95035

Treasurer and Membership Roster (address changes):
     Scott Kreider / pcs-treasurer@climber.org
     408-737-8709 home
     1007 S Wolfe Road #5, Sunnyvale, CA 94086

Publicity Committee Positions

Scree Editor:
     Bob Bynum / pcs-editor@climber.org
     510-659-1413 home

PCS World Wide Web Publisher:
     Jim Curl /pcs_webmaster@yahoo.com
     San Francisco, CA

Publicity Chair:
     Rick Booth / rwbooth@home.com
     408-354-7291 home
     237 San Mateo Avenue, Los Gatos, CA 95030

Scree is the monthly journal of the Peak Climbing Section of the Sierra Club, Loma Prieta Chapter.

Our official website is http://www.sierraclub.org/chapters/lomaprieta/pcs/

Subscriptions and Email List Info

Hard copy subscriptions are $10. Subscription applications and checks payable to “PCS” should be mailed to the Treasurer so they arrive before the last Tuesday of the expiration month. If you are on the official email list (lomap-pcs-announce@lists.sierraclub.org) or one of the email lists the PCS feeds (either the sierra-nevada@climber.org discussion list or the california-news@climber.org read-only list), you have a free EScree subscription. For email list details, send "info lomap-pcs-announce" to "listserv@lists.sierraclub.org", or send anything to "info@climber.org". EScree subscribers should send a subscription form to the Treasurer to become voting PCS members at no charge. The Scree is on the web as both plain text and fully formatted Adobe Acrobat/PDF.

Rock Climbing Classifications

The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing trips for which you are qualified. No simple rating system can anticipate all possible conditions.
     Class 1: Walking on a trail.
     Class 2: Walking cross-country, using hands for balance.
     Class 3: Requires use of hands for climbing, rope may be used.
     Class 4: Requires rope belays.
     Class 5: Technical rock climbing.

Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 3/25/2001. Meetings are the second Tuesday of each month.

Peak Climbing Section, 789 Daffodil Way, San Jose CA 95117

"Vy can't ve chust climb?" - John Salathe                                              First Class Mail - Dated Material