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 June, 2001        Peak Climbing Section, Loma Prieta Chapter, Sierra Club Vol. 35 No. 6

Next General Meeting

Date:           Tuesday, June 12
Time:           8:00 PM
Program:     Scotland, in all Weathers and Seasons.  A slide show by Karen Christie

From 1996-2000, I lived in Scotland, going 'hill walking' in all weather. While there I developed passions for ice and rock climbing, and photography. During this time, I explored all parts of the country and would like to share the beauty and diversity of the Scottish landscape.

Location         Western Mountaineering
Directions:     From 101: Exit at San Thomas Expressway, Go South to El Camino Real. Turn left and the Western Mountaineering will be immediately to your right. Limited parking back.

Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 6/24/2001 Meetings are the 2nd Tuesday of each month.

Private Trip Announcement

Kelly Maas and Landa Robillard are setting off on perhaps one of the most hazardous trips of their lives - they got married on Saturday, April 21.

Unfortunately (or fortunately, however you choose to look at it) they only got a permit for 2, so the trip is full.  However I have it on good authority that friends are welcome (and even encouraged) to join them on various legs of the trip as it unfolds.  See them for further details.

PCS Trips

PCS trips must be submitted through the Scheduler (see back cover for details). Trips not received from the Scheduler will be listed as PRIVATE, without recourse.

Thunderbolt Peak

Peak:            Thunderbolt Peak 14,000 ft. (class 5)
Dates:          June 2nd-3rd and maybe 4th, 2001
Leaders:      Ron Karpel ronny@karpel.org Rick Booth rwbooth@home.com

14,000 ft or is it 14,003 ft?  Bring your altimeter or GPS and we will find out, maybe.  For those of us who are less concerned about finding the exact altitude and more concerned about climbing, Thunderbolt makes a fine Sierra Nevada destination.  This is the hardest and the last to be climbed of the 14'ners, and it took the legendary team of Robert Underhill, Norman Clyde, Bestor Robinson, Francis Farquhar, Glen Dawson, Lewis Clark, and Jules Eichorn to get it.  We will try to repeat thier conquest, but without having to stand on each other's shoulders!

This is a restricted Sierra Club trip.  You have to be a SC member and you have to send in you SC number to be included.  Also, please include a climbing resume.  This is a class 4 to class 5 technical trip which requires substantial previous experience.

Peaks Near the Dome Lands

Peaks:          Taylor (8,802'), Sirretta (9,977'), and Rockhouse (8,360+')
Maps:           Cannell Pk, Sirretta Pk, Rockhouse Basin
Dates:          June 9-10
Contact:       Bob Suzuki 408-259-0772(H), suzukir@sd-star.com, bobszk@bigfoot.com

Start the peak climbing season with this car camp and 3 day hikes in Sequoia NF. We'll climb Taylor and Sirretta on Saturday. Rockhouse on Sunday will be 15 miles RT. Class 2-3

Alta Peak, Beginners and Kids Trip

Peak:            Alta Peak (11,204) class-1
Dates:          June 16-17 Sat-Sun
Maps:           Triple Divide Peak, Elevation gain/loss: 3,900’
Leader:        Ron Karpel ronny@karpel.org

From the summit, the views are of Mt. Goddard region to the North, and Mineral King to the South, including Mount Whitney and the Great Western Divide.

Saturday, we will hike from Wolverton and set camp at Mehrten Meadow, 4 mile and 2000 ft.  Sunday we'll bag the summit and return to the trailhead.  This hike is suitable for beginners with backpacking experience and for children.

Olancha Peak Beginners' Trip

Peak:            Olanca Peak (12,123’)
Dates:          Friday, June 22 - Sunday, June 24, 2001
Leader:        John Wilkinson (408) 947-0858  jwilkinsonca@earthlink.net

Olancha Peak is the southernmost major peak in the Sierra, a bit over 12,000 feet high.  We'll make a leisurely three-day trip, backpacking in over Olancha Pass on Friday afternoon, dayhiking the peak on Saturday, and hiking out on Sunday.  For those of you who are interested in lists, this is an SPS Emblem peak.. Limited to 10 people.

Pioneer Basin Peaks

Peak(s):       Pioneer Basin Peaks, (12,405-12,851), Class 2-3

Dates:          July 21-22
Leader:        Cecil Anison, cecilann@earthlink.net
Co-Leader:  Kai Wiedman(650)347-5234

The Pioneer Basin is a must-see.  Surrounded by peaks and renowned for its alpine beauty, this lake basin will serve as our base camp for the weekend.  Possible climbs are Mt. Huntington, Mt. Stanford, and Mt.Crocker.  We'll climb at least one peak on Saturday and Sunday.

Cloudripper

Peak:            Cloudripper   13,525'
Dates:          August 11-12, Sat-Sun
Map:              Mt Goddard 15'
Leader:        Debbie Benham, 650/964-0558, deborah4@pacbell.net

This peak is class 1 from Seventh Lake via the east ridge. We should have spectacular views of the Palisades once on top! Newcomers are welcome with backpacking experience. Permit for 8.

Ragged, Tuolumne, Hoffman

Peaks:          Ragged Peak (10,912'); Tuolumne Peak (10,845'); Mt Hoffman (10,850')
Dates:          August 25-26, Sat-Sun
Map:              Tuolumne Meadows
Leader(s):   Debbie Benham, 650/964-0558, deborah4@pacbell.net
                      Chris MacIntosh, 650/325-7841, cmaci@attglobal.net

We've reserved two adjacent campsites at lovely Tuolumne Meadows Campground for Friday night (8/24) and Saturday night (8/25). There will be a choice of peaks to climb, one each on Saturday and Sunday.

Reservations are for 10 hikers; $8 reserves your two night stay and is non-refundable. Newcomers to peak climbing most welcome!!

Telescope Peak

Peak:            Telescope Peak (11,049 ft) class 2
Date:             Saturday, 29 September 2001
Leaders:      Richard Vassar 650-949-4485 richard.vassar@lmco.com and
                       Jeff Fisher 408-739-1702 han1cannae@aol.com

Day hike Telescope Peak from Shorty's Well (-253 ft) near Badwater (-282 ft, lowest point in the western hemisphere) in Death Valley via Hanaupah Canyon  and steep cross-country ridge until we join the Telescope Pk trail 1.5 miles  from the summit.  We'll leave early to avoid the heat at low elevation. Temperature on the summit should be about 50 deg cooler than Death Valley.

Be prepared for 24 miles (17 miles to Telescope Pk and 7 miles down to Mahogany Flat) and 11,300 ft elevation gain.  Car shuttle required.  Call leaders for details. Participants must have adequate experience and  training.  Advanced registration with the leaders is required.

Publicity Committee Note

The May 2001 Scree contained a trip report describing an ascent of Aconcagua written by Helen Qian.  This report was published without her permission.  Helen has graciously agreed to allow the PCS to keep the article in the May Scree.  I would like to apologize to Helen for this lack of consideration of her copyrights and also to the readers of the Scree who may have become disconcerted by such an event.

•Rick Booth, PCS Publicity Committee Chair


Eureka Dunes

May 5-6 2001

Lori had been grumbling that we never camp any more.  This is mostly true, we don't have to.  Anyway, Saturday afternoon we went out to the Eureka Dunes in the northwest corner of Death Valley and right under DPS peak Sandy to the west.  Dick and Judy Erb from June Lake accompanied us.

There is now a tiny campground right below the NW slope of the dunes with two tables and a bathroom where we stayed.  I went running along the road to the east of the dunes and when I returned another vehicle had joined us which was sitting curiously low.  It had three flat tires.  The vehicle was a rental Ford Explorer with Firestone tires.  Haven't we heard about this combination recently?  The occupants were visitors from Japan,  one apparently a well known photographer.  Their purpose was to photograph snowboarding on the dunes.  When I arrived Lori and Dick were busily phoning trying to find someone who would tow them out of there.  It was amusing to listen to them explaining that there weren't any nearby cross streets.

Finally, Millers Towing from Lone Pine agreed to come out.  They arrived at 9:30 pm with a huge vehicle.  Rather than tow them, they fixed all the tires. The bill for this effort was $500, cheap in our opinion considering the distance, size of the vehicle and pay for two people.  Remember Millers towing if you ever get in big trouble in this area.

Sunday we hiked up the dunes.  Much of the way, the sand was wind packed and firm with easy walking.  Some, especially on the steeper slopes was just sand. We traversed a long ridge line to what appeared to be the high point to the south.  To descend, we dropped straight down the steeper west slopes.  As the sand was sliding with us, it would emit a low frequency hum.  I had heard of this phenomenon, but never experienced it.  Driving north up Eureka Valley, we saw two American Avocets.  These are shore birds and may have been way lost.

• Eric and Lori Beck

The Machete Ridge, a West Side Story.

May 6, 2001

On 6th May, the two of us, Scott Kreider and myself, Arun Mahajan, spent a day in the less frequented west side of the Pinnacles National Monument and climbed the Machete Ridge by way of the 'Old Original' route. As climbing goes, it never gets harder than 5.3 / 5.4 and you go more down than up but it was still a long day.

The Climbers guide to the Pinnacles is dead on. After a couple of false turnoffs from the main trail, Scott guided us to the base of the true climb. P1: Protected by one bolt, 5.3 per book. Scott led this till the notch. P2: Straightforward exposed class-3/4 ridgetop walk that Scott led on belay till some bolts in another notch. P3: The more sporting of the pitches. I went up first on the ridge top but seeing no bolts and a drop off that was definitely not 5.3, backed off and discovered that I was off route. The correct route is below this ridgetop boulder and goes around a bulge. Little airy but short and I passed by the bolt by going below and then clipping back, then a short walk/crouch beside the ridge top boulder to next bolt at the feet. Easy class 3 down walk to notch and a 5.4 step to top this notch to a comfortable a flat area with a couple of nice manzanita bushes to anchor and belay from. P4: Another airy class-3 ridgetop walk. Scott led this till he ran out the rope and then I followed, our version of a 'simul-climb' to a 3 bolt rappel station. P5: This is a long rappel. We had two 50m ropes and they were enough, but just barely. There are two intermediate two-bolt rap stations on the way down, the first one being on a ledge. Everything seemed to be set up for single rope rappels. P6: Scott on lead, 5.3 to a U-notch between two small turrets and then 4th class down climb to another flat area. There is a rock-block here with bolts on either side. This is the end of the official climb and it was already 4pm. So, instead of bailing here, Scott and I went up the Middle Tower, a 5.5, 2 bolt route with a pair of bolts on the top also. Steep drop offs on either side, especially on the west.

Afer rapping off from the Middle Tower, back to our packs at the rock-block, we decided to rappel into the shaded gully on the right. A full length, double rope rappel (by this time we were *really* happy that we had lugged 2 ropes) got us down the steep face into a gully to another set of shiny new bolts. We did another rap to the next set of bolts, also in the gully and rapped off again to a bolt pair on the top of a class-4 drop off into the void below. It was debateable whether we needed to rappel these last two spots but for one thing, this was unknown terrain for us and the rock was polished and smooth, so it was a good decision. By this time we were really getting tired of all the rappeling and the heat had already worn us down. Thinking that this was the last rappel, Scott took off, only to discover that the dropoff was not that long and it led him to a tree that had slings and rap-rings! Here we go again, one more rap. But this time, the rap was steep and long over a 4th/low-5th class  wall that was covered with dry moss and smaller vegetation that would have made down-climbing extremely treacherous. Now, we were in a rocky gully and some watchful down climbing got us at one end of 'the caves' and the trail.

All in all, if you are looking for an opportunity to practice some aspects of ropecraft with multiple pitches and with only mellow climbing as the challenge, then this beautiful ridge is worth looking at.

We used two 50m ropes and think that two ropes will be necessary to get off safely. A couple of large cams were useful for anchoring while doing variations like the start of the Middle Tower, but otherwise all the other trad gear simply added weight to the pack. Half a dozen quick draws and about that many shoulder length slings were all that we used. All those shiny new bolts, some with nice new slings made this quite a deluxe climbing experience as Scott liked to put it.

 • Arun Mahajan

Bradley, Center, & Keith,

May 12-13, 2001

Five of us met at Onion Valley (9300') for this joint Ski Mountaineers/Sierra Peaks section 4-day trip. We proceeded to University Col (12,600'), two with snowshoes and three with skis, although the snow stayed pretty firm in the morning. The forecast the day before was "slight chance of afternoon thunderstorms at the crest" but seeing clouds forming at 8AM was not a good sign. For much of the day it was raining or snowing, even blizzardy at times.

It was rough going over the col in the snow and cold. I was more prepared for summer weather, and we all were somewhat chilled and miserable. Jeff Koepke's heavy pack made for slow going. Some wind when we got to the south side of the crest made things even colder. But as we descended to Center Basin it got better and we didn't even have to set up tents while it was snowing. We chose the mostly rock route on the muchly bare south facing slope. However, there was hardly any exposed ground where we camped (on snow) at the 11,000' level below the col.

The next morning we went up Bradley via the central gully from the Basin. The snow was steep (35-40 degrees) in places. Very near the top there was exposed snow below a wall that we protected with a fixed line traverse. Prussiks or carabiners were used as points of attachment for each of us as we traversed, except for Reiner Stenzel who led it. The top was enjoyable; there was cloud and storm activity around but not on this peak. We then descended and went back to camp.

We left at 5AM Sunday for Center Peak. On both snow and rock we summited about 10AM. The summit block has a face with holds or a mantle move for mounting it; both about 5.7. Most chose to prussik up or be belayed by the ropes set up by the leaders Reiner S. and Ron Hudson.

Reiner and Ruth von Rotz then left for Mt Keith, two miles away across the

Basin. They downhill skied much as they traversed the Basin. Then up snow gullies and the NE ridge of the peak to the summit. They got back to camp at 7:30 PM after a long day. Having the skis allowed a fast return in great skiing conditions. Ruth and Reiner were in their element being avid skiers. The other three of us had enjoyed a nice afternoon in the warm sun.

The next day we packed up and began the 1600' climb to the col. This time most preferred the snow gully which went up almost all the ascent. Scott and I took the rock route for safety; Scott was coughing and suffering with his 75 pound pack. We then assisted with his load for safety and to speed things up. Patty Rambert was enjoying carefully all the snow we climbed; thousands of feet of kickstep or cramponable type steep snow.

The col north side was steep but safe as the snow softened. Again Patty and used snowshoes under the fierce afternoon sun; the skiers skied. Back to the cars at 6:30 PM I was glad we got the peaks each had intended or "needed". It was an adventure in the snow, and the storm the first day; and also challenging for the leaders in doing routes to get over snow and rock minimizing then exposure and danger.

• Ron Hudson

Bag Crag / With Smith

May 12-13, 2001

Saturday, May 12, we headed out to Bag Crag.  Dee Booth was our leader.  Wayne Martin, Sue Gygax, Arun Mahajan, Scott Kreider, Chris Franchuk, Rod McCalley,  David Harris, and Dave McCracken made up the party.  I was co-leader and trip historian.  Our trailhead was the PCT in the Kennedy Meadows campground (the southern Kennedy, near Nine Mile Canyon, not the other Kennedy).  We headed north on the trail to a point a mile beyond the peak in order to avoid the dense brush in the more direct path.  Thick clouds dripped on us as we hiked.  We left the trail and turned west, cross country, and climbed the ridge.  As we turned south to follow the ridge to the summit, the sky opened up.  There was no tree cover on the rocky ridge top, and the rain soaked us.  The final fifty feet or so of Crag Peak are rather cliffy, and the rain slick made them extra challenging.  A short cat walk could probably be done upright if it were dry, but in the rain we choose to scoot across it.  Eight of the ten of us reached the summit, but nobody stopped to linger.  There wasn t any view in that weather, and we sure didn t feel like studying the old register entries.  We returned to Kennedy after the rain stopped, and tried to dry out by a campfire. 

Sunday, after David H, Arun and Scott split to celebrate Mothers Day, each in their own way, we drove five miles west to the Fish Creek campground overflow area.  Autumn climbers can start much closer to Smith Mtn than we did, but in the spring, road closures force the hiker to make a full day trip out of it.  We headed five miles up the trail to the saddle, then made a side jaunt, just 400 feet and 1/10 mile, up Jackass Peak, though truth be told, we climbed the lower of the two towers.  Clouds were building again, and rather than spend the time fixing our mistake on Jackass, we wanted to reach Smith before the storm broke.  We succeeded in getting to the easy summit of Smith while the sky was still clear enough that we could see Mt Langley.  On our way down, however, we were pelted with hailstones the size of pencil erasers but not nearly as soft.  In all, it was a scenic and adventurous trip, with great company, but rotten weather.

• Aaron Schuman

Private Trips

Private trips may be submitted directly to the Scree Editor, but are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra Club. They are listed here because they may be of interest to PCS members.

Goode Cloudripper

Peaks:             Mt Goode (13085 Class2), Cloudripper (13525 Class3)
Date:                Sat-Sun, June 16-17
Quads:             N.Palisade, Mt Thompson; 7.5’
Contact:           Bob Suzuki (bobszk@bigfoot.com)
Co-Contact:    Pat Callery (haishan1@yahoo.com)

Sick of hauling that monster pack over the Sierra Crest?  Join us for a  leisurely 2-day trip in the basin below Bishop Pass.  Saturday we will pack in from South Lake and make camp, allowing time for a hike up Mt. Goode's southeast slope.  Sunday we will climb Cloudripper's 3rd class west face from Chocolate Lakes and hike out.  Any mountain with a name like that has got to be good!

Cascades

Peak:            Mts Adams & others
Date:             Sat, June 30-31, Class 2 - 3; ice axe and crampons
Contact:       Steve Eckert, mailto:eckert@climber.org
                      Bob Evans, robtwevans@email.msn.com; (408) 998-2857

Part of Cascade volcanos tour; participants are welcome to do only this first half, only Mt. Rainer (see accompanying announcement), or both halves  Then the 3 Sisters traverse (all three) and/or St. Helens day hike depending on group interests and speed.

Arun’s Peak Fest

Peaks:          Mt Whitney, 14491 ft, class-3, Mt Muir, 14012 ft, class-3, Mt Carillon, 13517 ft, class-2, Tunnabora Peak, 13563 ft, Class-2.
Dates:          June 30 to July 3 (Sat/Sun/Mon/Tue)
Map:              Mt Whitney
Leaders:      Arun Mahajan, arun@tollbridgetech.com, 650-327-8598, home, after 9pm.
                      Scott Kreider, kreider@pa.dec.com, 650-853-6560, work.

Join us for a peak fest in one of the most alpine regions of the Sierra. The sunrise on the east face of Whitney from the camp at Iceberg Lakes, is to be seen to be believed.

Muir is well known for it's severely exposed class-3 summit block and from Carillon, one may obtain a great view of the startling east ridge of Mt Russell. We will do Carillon and Tunnabora from our first camp at Upper Boyscout Lake and then move camp to Iceberg Lake and do Whitney by the Mountaineer's Route from there and from Whitney, hike down the Whitney trail to summit Muir.

Permit for 6. The permit fee is $15 per person for camping inthe Whitney region. We would like you to be a good class-3climber as Whitney and Muir, by these choosen routes, need you to be at that level. Please call the leaders to sign up.

Mt Brewer

Peaks:          Mt Brewer (13570) class-2, N. Guard  (13327) class-3/4
Dates:          July 4th-8th
Maps:           Mt Whitney (15) Mt Brewer (7.5)
Organizer:    Siamak Navid (707) 537-9293 H, (707) 794-5331 W, sia_navid@agilent.com

The trailhead is Cedar Grove in Kings Canyon. We will take the first two days to get to the uppermost Sphinx Lakes (11000) via Sphinx Creek trail. The two lay over days are for our main peaks. Depending on the conditions we might try other peaks. Brewer is class-2 but N Guard can  get tricky and exposed at the top. We will probably take a rope. Ice axes will be required.

Mt Rainier

Peak:            Mt. Rainier (14,410); Kautz Glacier Route
Date:             Thru, July 5-Sun, July 8
Contact:       Steve Eckert, eckert@climber.org,
                      Bob Evans robtwevans@email.msn.com; (408) 998-2857

Glacier travel; 50+ degree snow/ice; fixed ropes to be used; participants to be screened for roped glacier exp.

The prized summit of the Washington State highpoint is the goal of this conclusion to a week in the Cascade volcanos. Participants are welcome to do only Rainier or to join in Adams and others (see accompanying announcement).  For route information, see the trip report of R. Karpel 7/00.  To reserve a park permit with the group, deposit $35 for the NPS fee with Bob before May 1, 01, or take your chances picking up permit without reservation. Meet at Paradise parking lot on Thursday AM, July 5. Return  on Sunday PM, July 8.

Participants will be screened for roped glacier experience - this isNOT the standard route, and some real climbing (plus open crevasses)is certain to happen.

Mt Rainier

Peak:            Mt. Rainier (14,410), Fuhrer Finger Route
Date:             July 7th - 10th
Contact:       Maxym Runov, maxym@elegantsoft.com

Glacier travel; 45+ degree snow/ice

This is one of shortest routes to the summit from Paradise Parking lot. High camp will be on Wapovety Clever (west side of the Wilson Glacier) at about 9,400'.

This trip involves both glacier travel and a moderately steep alpine ice climbing. We will travel roped up on the glacier and use pickets and ice screws for belay on the steep ice section.

Participants must be experienced in using ice axe and crampons for snow travel, have previous training in glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques.

I must know you or you should be recommended by people I know.

Mountain Home

Peaks:         North Maggie (10235), Moses (9331), etc
Dates:          June 8-10 (Fri-Sun)
Contact:       Aaron Schuman & Steve Eckert aaron@climber.org, eckert@climber.org

Mountain Home State Forest is stunning: Colors, big trees, no people. Aaron and Steve are backpacking in on Friday for two nights at Summit Lake.  Saturday, Aaron will climb North Maggie Peak.  Steve will explore the upper reaches of the South Fork of the Kaweah River and stroll up to Soda Butte for a view into the Little Kern Valley.  Travel with eitherone of us on Saturday, or find your own route if you don't like our pace or agenda.  Sunday, we'll climb class 3 Moses Mtn and return home.

Boundary Peak

Peak:            Boundary Peak, Class 2 (13,143') (Nevada state highpoint)
Dates:          July 6, 7 (Friday, Saturday)
Leader:        Alan Ritter, jar@eng.bausch.com (St. Louis, MO) 636-226-3364 (work)

Queen Canyon approach to Boundary Peak.  Meet at gravel road 2.5 miles east of the CA/NV border on Route 6, at noon on Friday, July 6.  Drive as far as possible up the road and jeep trails to Kennedy Point, hike along the ridge to Trail Canyon Saddle.  Camp there (dry camp, carry all needed water!), climb Boundary Peak on Saturday and return to the cars.

An energetic subset of the group may wish to extend the climb to Montgomery, another mile along the ridge on the CA side of the line.

Mt. Goethe

Peak:            Mt Goethe via Lamarck Col, class 2, 13,264'
Dates:          July 13-15, Fri-Sat-Sun
Map:             Mt Goddard 15'
Contact:       Debbie Benham, 650/964-0558, deborah4@pacbell.net

Enjoy a leisurely stroll over Lamarck  Col, easily the most popular cross-country route across the Sierra crest between Bishop Pass and Piute Pass. We'll hike in Friday, summit Saturday, and depart Sunday.

Given the group's interest, we can climb Mt Lamarck on the way home.

Ice axe and crampons will be required, and participants must be proficient in their use. You will be asked to sign a liability waiver.

Permit for 6. $10 reserves your spot and is fully refundable at the trailhead.

Climb-O-Rama

Dates:          Aug 11-19 (Sat-Sun, full week)
Peaks:         Climb-O-Rama (see below, many individual options)
Contact:       Steve Eckert, eckert@climber.org

This year we'll enter via Bear Creek (near Lake Edison, on the west side) and hang out around the many bear lakes (White, Black, Teddy, etc). From this area you'll have access to (in no particular order) Hooper, Senger, Seven Gables, Gemini, Merriam, Royce, Feather, Julius Caesar, Hilgard, Mist, Recess, Volcanic Knob, Gabb, Bear Creek Spire, Dade, Abbot, Mills.

Bear Creek rivals any stream in the Sierra for waterfalls and pools, and the high tundra between Julius Caesar and Seven Gables is the sort of place where you wander from tarn to tarn thinking each is more beautiful than the last. Peaks in the area range from crud piles to surprisingly nice views, and the campsites are second to none.

We'll try to camp together, as always, and split into groups for the peaks based on what people are interested in and how fast they are. Last year's C-o-R was the only one where we didn't get all of our objectives, due to a freak monsoon, so contact me now and help set the agenda for the main group!

Sierra Emblem Challenge

Peaks:          10 Emblem Peaks in 10 Days
Date:             August 2001
Contact:       Bob Burd, snwbord@hotmail.com
                      Steve Keltie, dns306@cs.com

Info:               http://members.nbci.com/snwburd/emblem/

The Sierra Emblem Challenge is a series of dayhikes to the most impressive peaks in the Sierra Nevada. All of these hikes are very strenuous in both miles logged and vertical feet gained. Ten of 15 Emblem Peaks have been chosen for this 10-day event beginning Aug 4, 2001. The Challenge is open to anyone. This is a Wilderness experience, with serious risks that are each participant’s responsibility. No emergency services of any kind is available to those in trouble.

Mt Kilimanjaro

Peak::           Climb Kala Pattar  18,100 ft.
Date:             January 2002
Contact:       Warren Storkman, 650-493-8959, dstorkman@aol.com

Six nights on Kilimanjaro - plus four nights at the Marangu Hotel under $800.00. Safari after trek, optional


Hut Work Parties

Editor’s Note: Although these work parties are not peak climbing trips, they are listed here because many people in the PCS are also active in the Ski Touring Section. This gives us the opportunity to help another section.

Benson Hut

Date:             Jul 21-22  Sat-Sun 
Leaders:      Carol Vellutini (707-546-6308)
                      Ed Schreiber (707-253-0293).

Maintenance weekend at backcountry hut on Pacific Crest Trail south of Donner Summit.  Stay at Club's Clair Tappaan Lodge in Norden Fri night, overnight at the hut Sat, return Sun.  Tools, food, supplies provided; you bring simple backpack gear.  Leaders:

Re-Roof of Benson Hut

Date:             Jul 27 - Aug 5 
Leaders:      Leaders: Carol Vellutini (707-546-6308),
                      Doug Porter (707-321-3784)
                      Dick Simpson (650-494-9272), rsimpson@magellan.stanford.edu.

Replace the roof at backcountry hut on Pacific Crest Trail south of Donner Summit.  Stay at Club's Clair Tappaan Lodge or at the hut.  Over 100 people volunteered when the hut was built over 50 yrs ago; this project is smaller but requires equal enthusiasm. 

Peter Grubb Hut

Date:             Aug 11-19, Sat-Sun 
Leaders:      Chris MacIntosh 650-325-7841
                      Dick Simpson 650-494-9272, rsimpson@magellan.stanford.edu
                      Debbie Benham 650-964-0558

Help renovate classic backcountry hut near Donner Summitused by cross-country skiers and snowshoers.  Painting, new kitchen, new outhouse, general clean up.  Sign up for 1, 2, or more days.

Benson Hut

Date:             Sep 8-9  Sat-Sun
Leaders:      Carol Vellutini (707-546-6308) and
                      Ed Schreiber (707-253-0293).

Maintenance weekend at backcountry hut on Pacific Crest Trail south of Donner Summit.  Stay at Club's Clair Tappaan Lodge in Norden Fri night, overnight at the hut Sat, return Sun.  Tools, food, supplies provided; you bring simple backpack gear.  

Peter Grubb

Date:            Sep 22-23, Sat-Sun
Leader:        Debbie Benham (650-964-0558)

Prepare classic backcountry hut near Donner Summit for use by cross-country skiers and snowshoers next winter.  Stay at Club's Clair Tappaan Lodge Fri night, overnight at the hut, return Sun.  Tools, food, supplies provided; you bring simple backpack gear.

Bradley Hut

Date:            Oct 13-14, Sat-Sun
Leader:        Dick Simpson 650-494-9272 rsimpson@magellan.stanford.edu

Maintenance weekend at backcountry hut near Squaw Valley. Stay at Club's Clair Tappaan Lodge in Norden Fri night, overnight at the hut Sat, return Sun.  Tools, food, supplies provided; you bring simple backpack gear.

Truckee River Day

Date:             Oct 14, Sun 
Leaders:      Dick Simpson 650-494-9272 rsimpson@magellan.stanford.edu
                      Harvey Ceaser 925-937-1406 ceaser3@Juno.com

Help restore Truckee River drainage with hundreds of other volunteers.  Specific projects to be determined as date approaches.  Organized jointly with Bradley Hut work party (above); you choose one, the other, or both.



Technical Tip: Camming Pro Comparison

You have decided to go to Indian Creek and climb the endless number of splitter cracks in the sandstone there.  The weather is perfect, the camping is cool, and the vistas are fantastic.  Thumbing through the Indian Creek Climbs guide book and in short order Generic Crack is a must do.  The recommended gear: eight 2.5 friends in addition to other stuff!  That's a lot of same size cams and that's only one crack.  Scrounging gear from friends is the only way to handle this.  Unfortunately, most of us use a variety of stuff and some of it overlaps and some of it doesn't.  Even if you aren't on your way to Indian Creek and wish to build a rack with duplicates of certain sizes, it sometimes makes sense to cover these sizes with different style camming devices.  This means different manufacturers.  The following table was put together to cross reference Friends to Camalots and the Metolius four cam series.  The Metolius FatCams were also included.  These are good on sandstone and are sometimes referred to as "desert cams".

• Rick Booth

Technical/Forged

Range (in)

Camalots

Range (in)

Metolius

Range (in)

Metolius

Range (in)

Friends

     

Power Cam

 

Fat Cam

 
       

00

.3-.5

   

00

.4-.6

0.1

.34-.54

0

.4-.6

   
   

0.2

.41-.65

       

0

.5-.7

0.3

.50-.86

1

.5-.8

   

0.5

.6-.9

0.4

.61-1.05

2

.6-.9

   

1

.7-1.1

       

2

.7-1.0

1.25

.8-1.3

0.5

.8-1.3

3

.8-1.1

3

.8-1.2

1.5

.9-1.4

   

4

.9-1.4

4

.9-1.4

1.75

1-1.6

0.75

1.0-1.6

       

2

1.1-1.7

1

1.2-2

5

1.1-1.7

5

1.1-1.7

2.5

1.3-2.2

2

1.5-2.5

6

1.3-1.9

6

1.4-2.0

3

1.7-2.6

   

7

1.7-2.3

7

1.6-2.4

3.5

2.0-3.2

3

2.0-3.4

8

2.0-2.8

8

1.9-3.0

4

2.5-3.9

3.5

2.4-4.1

9

2.2-3.3

9

2.4-3.6

   

4

2.9-4.9

10

2.8-4.2

   

5

3.3-5.4

4.5

3.5-5.8

       

6

4.5-7.5

5

4.2-7.0

       



Elected Officials

Chair:
     Dee Booth / rdbooth@worldnet.att.net
     408-354-7291 home
     237 San Mateo Avenue, Los Gatos, CA 95030

Vice Chair and Trip Scheduler:
     Nancy Fitzsimmons / pkclimber@aol.com
     408-957-9683 home
     1025 Abbott Avenue, Milpitas, CA 95035

Treasurer and Membership Roster (address changes):
     Scott Kreider / pcs-treasurer@climber.org
     408-737-8709 home
     1007 S Wolfe Road #5, Sunnyvale, CA 94086

Publicity Committee Positions

Scree Editor:
     Bob Bynum / pcs-editor@climber.org
     510-659-1413 home

PCS World Wide Web Publisher:
     Jim Curl / pcs_webmaster@yahoo.com
     415-585-1380
     San Francisco, CA

Publicity Chair:
     Rick Booth / rwbooth@home.com
     408-354-7291 home
     237 San Mateo Avenue, Los Gatos, CA 95030


Scree is the monthly journal of the Peak Climbing Section of the Sierra Club, Loma Prieta Chapter.

Our official website is http://www.sierraclub.org/chapters/lomaprieta/pcs/

Subscriptions and Email List Info

Hard copy subscriptions are $10. Subscription applications and checks payable to “PCS” should be mailed to the Treasurer so they arrive before the last Tuesday of the expiration month. If you are on the official email list (lomap-pcs-announce@lists.sierraclub.org) or one of the email lists the PCS feeds (either the sierra-nevada@climber.org discussion list or the california-news@climber.org read-only list), you have a free EScree subscription. For email list details, send "info lomap-pcs-announce" to "listserv@lists.sierraclub.org", or send anything to "info@climber.org". EScree subscribers should send a subscription form to the Treasurer to become voting PCS members at no charge. The Scree is on the web as both plain text and fully formatted Adobe Acrobat/PDF.

Rock Climbing Classifications

The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing trips for which you are qualified. No simple rating system can anticipate all possible conditions.
     Class 1: Walking on a trail.
     Class 2: Walking cross-country, using hands for balance.
     Class 3: Requires use of hands for climbing, rope may be used.
     Class 4: Requires rope belays.
     Class 5: Technical rock climbing.


Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 6/24/2001. Meetings are the second Tuesday of each month.

Peak Climbing Section, 789 Daffodil Way, San Jose CA 95117

"Vy can't ve chust climb?" - John Salathe                                              First Class Mail - Dated Material