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 July, 2001        Peak Climbing Section, Loma Prieta Chapter, Sierra Club Vol. 35 No. 7

Next General Meeting

Date:          Tuesday, July 10
Time:          7:00 PM
Program:    BBQ at Portal Park

Bring your own main course to BBQ and your own liquid refreshment (alcohol IS allowed) and a side dish to share for the potluck. A $3.00 donation will cover the picnic area and charcoal.
Bring your summer trip reports and mark your extra equipment for the swap meet.

Location         Portal Park in Cupertino

Directions:     From 280 go South on Wolfe cutting through the Vallco Fashion Park.  Go right on Stevens Creek Blvd and then go right (north) on Portal Avenue.  The park is on the left up a few hundred yards.  Please bring charcoal and whatever for your BBQ.  Alcoholic beverages ok

Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 7/29/2001 Meetings are the 2nd Tuesday of each month.

Wilderness First Aid

This is a great 20-hour class for those who are looking to experience practicing wilderness first aid skills in an outdoor setting. In addition to a half day of outdoor scenario practice of first aid and leadership skills, this class focuses on practicing skills and covers wilderness first aid topics: patient assessment, shock and bleeding, head and spinal injuries, wounds, musculoskeletal injuries, heat and cold illnesses and much more. Adult CPR and Wilderness First Aid certifications are available upon successful completion of this course and passing a written wilderness exam. There are pre-class reading assignments. (If you are current in Adult CPR, contact Eric Fenster about your options and costs)

Class will be taught by Bobbie Foster of Foster Calm, former OU First Aid Program Coordinator. Been teaching wilderness first aid in the Bay Area for 6 years.

Pre-requisites: None
Classroom Session: July 17, 6-10pm
Weekend Session: July 21-22, 8am-5pm
Cost: $82- OU Volunteers, Millberry Union Members, UCSF Students/ $105.
UCSF Staff/$115 - General Public

Sign-up Now ? Sign-ups are already in progress. Call 415/476-5244 for registration information.

Call Eric Fenster at 415/476-1469 for any questions about the class or Outdoors Unlimited's First Aid Program.

PCS Trips

PCS trips must be submitted through the Scheduler (see back cover for details). Trips not received from the Scheduler will be listed as PRIVATE, without recourse.

Pioneer Basin Peaks

Peak(s):       Pioneer Basin Peaks, (12,405-12,851), Class 2-3
Dates:          July 21-22
Leader:        Cecil Anison, cecilann@earthlink.net
Co-Leader:  Kai Wiedman(650)347-5234

The Pioneer Basin is a must-see.  Surrounded by peaks and renowned for its alpine beauty, this lake basin will serve as our base camp for the weekend.  Possible climbs are Mt. Huntington, Mt. Stanford, and Mt.Crocker.  We'll climb at least one peak on Saturday and Sunday.


Peak:            Cloudripper   13,525'
Dates:          August 11-12, Sat-Sun
Map:              Mt Goddard 15'
Leader:        Debbie Benham, 650/964-0558, deborah4@pacbell.net

This peak is class 1 from Seventh Lake via the east ridge. We should have spectacular views of the Palisades once on top! Newcomers are welcome with backpacking experience. Permit for 8.

Ragged, Tuolumne, Hoffman

Peaks:          Ragged Peak (10,912'); Tuolumne Peak (10,845'); Mt Hoffman (10,850')
Dates:          August 25-26, Sat-Sun
Map:              Tuolumne Meadows
Leader(s):   Debbie Benham, 650/964-0558, deborah4@pacbell.net
Chris MacIntosh, 650/325-7841, cmaci@attglobal.net

We've reserved two adjacent campsites at lovely Tuolumne Meadows Campground for Friday night (8/24) and Saturday night (8/25). There will be a choice of peaks to climb, one each on Saturday and Sunday.

Reservations are for 10 hikers; $8 reserves your two night stay and is non-refundable. Newcomers to peak climbing most welcome!!

Telescope Peak

Peak:            Telescope Peak (11,049 ft) class 2
Date:             Saturday, 29 September 2001
Leaders:      Richard Vassar 650-949-4485 richard.vassar@lmco.com and
Jeff Fisher 408-739-1702 han1cannae@aol.com

Day hike Telescope Peak from Shorty's Well (-253 ft) near Badwater (-282 ft, lowest point in the western hemisphere) in Death Valley via Hanaupah Canyon  and steep cross-country ridge until we join the Telescope Pk trail 1.5 miles  from the summit.  We'll leave early to avoid the heat at low elevation. Temperature on the summit should be about 50 deg cooler than Death Valley.

Be prepared for 24 miles (17 miles to Telescope Pk and 7 miles down to Mahogany Flat) and 11,300 ft elevation gain.  Car shuttle required.  Call leaders for details. Participants must have adequate experience and  training.  Advanced registration with the leaders is required.  Co-listed with Day Hiking Section.

Ask Bote Anchoure

Mountaineering and Climbing Q & A from the Famous French Alpinist

Noted French alpinist Bote Anchoure has agreed to answer mountaineering and climbing questions from Scree readers when he returns from the mountains.  This month he has returned from a successful climb of the Zucchini Ridge on Mt. Wackafrex and has answered several letters for this column.

Question #1: I am going to do a solo traverse of Mt. McKinley in Denali National Park.  Can you give me advice on what special techniques I may need?

Rich L'Imbecile

Dear Rich,

The most important thing you will need is absolute confidence so that the fear of falling into a crevasse never enters your mind.  For this you will need to see your family doctor and ask for a frontal lobotomy.  Some people have attempted self lobotomizations using an ice axe or ice tool in order to save money but this is not recommended.

Question #2: After three days or so on long backpacking trips my girlfriend won't have sex with me.  What can I do?

Leonard Grunge

Dear Leonard,

The problem is after three days you stink.  In fact, I can smell you from here.  I would suggest in the future that you bring extra unners, soap, a washcloth, and if necessary, battery acid.

Question #3: If I had to do a first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed peak in Santa Clara County that the locals have no name for, except that they quiver in awe when they look at its direct south face in the waning light (I think I might also name it Peak Perilous).  Which GPS would I buy for this?

Vernier Caliper

Dear Millimeter-Head,

There have been more than 1 million ascents by the standard route on this peak, it has been named Mission Peak, it's direct south face is about 20 metres high and people usually wag their naughty parts in its general direction.  You probably need a GPS to be able to navigate yourself out of your own bed.  Get the 1000$, US MilSpec, UltraSuperDuperTorqueBaffledPiezoElectricTurbo.  The least you can do is to get the economy going.

Question #4: I am attempting Nanga Parbat by the Rupal Face. I have watched a few Tae-Bo videos and have done a hike in Central Park.  I also have a pot belly.  How many cans of slim-fast should I carry up to the base camp?

Fooney Bruise.

Dear Fat-Ass,

You can't carry enough cans of slim-fast to the base of Nanga Parbat.  Watch a few slimming videos and compare the various slimming techniques and compare the benefits of both and then post your findings on 'gear@climber.org' and try again next year.  That will be a big help for others wanting to climb Nanga Parbat.

Questions to Bote Anchoure may be forwarded through Rick Booth at rwbooth@home.com or Arun Mahajan at arun@tollbridgetech.com.

Rock Climbing Destinations:

Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks

Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks are located in the town of Idyllwild, California.  Idyllwild is located at about the 5000 foot level on Mount San Jacinto on highway 243.  Mount San Jacinto is one of the prominent peaks in the Los Angeles area and dominates the town of Palm Springs, California.  For climbers visiting LA for other reasons or for a climbing destination that is worth the effort for its own sake, a visit to Tahquitz and Suicide is highly recommended.  While the more popular and well known area of Joshua Tree National Park is nearby, the effort to get to Idyllwild is not significantly more difficult than getting to Joshua Tree, in fact, getting to Idyllwild from the LA basin is easier than getting to Joshua Tree.

To climb at Tahquitz and Suicide is to connect with those who have come before us.  Indeed, the Tahqitz route, "The Mechanics Route", was first put up by Glen Dawson in 1937.  Glen Dawson participated in the more well known first ascent of the East face of Mount Whitney, a coveted prize of most Sierra mountaineers.  A climb of the "The Mechanics Route" will impart an incredible appreciation for the boldness of these early climbers.  "The Mechanics Route" is rated modern 5.8.  The second pitch is unrelenting 5.6 pockets without any bolts or other protection.  This route was done using manila ropes and sneakers!  A reading of the first ascencionists of many of the routes at Tahquitz is a list of the many Southern California participants in the "Golden Era" of Yosemite rock climbing: Robins, Herbert, Chouinard, Dawson, Gallwas, and perhaps the most unknown of the group, Chuck Wilts, Cal Tech professor and inventor of the knifeblade piton.

While Tahquitz was the learning and proving ground for those who went on to put up some of the Yosemite big wall classics, Suicide was the proving ground for the generation to follow, the Stonemasters.  Indeed, the "entrance exam" for membership in the Stonemasters was merely to climb the Suicide classic "Valhalla", 5.11a, which was arguably the first 5.11 in Southern California.  This group consisted of John Long, Tobin Sorenson, Eric Accomazzo, and others.  These climbers went on to put up some of the hardest routes in the country, indeed, John Long participated in the freeing of "Astroman" on Washington Column in Yosemite Valley.  During this period of time Tony Yaniro put up "The Pirate" on Suicide which is rated 5.12d.

Climbing at Tahquitz and Suicide is about as convenient as it gets.  The town of Idyllwild has two campgrounds and many restaurants, some which are quite reasonable.  There used to be a movie theater in the center of town, however, I am not sure if it is still there.  The trail to Tahquitz leaves from the road which ends at a circle at Humber Park and the trail to Suicide leaves from the road a few hundred yards before the end of the road.  Access time to Tahquitz is about 45 minutes or so and the access to Suicide is about half that.  The trail to Tahquitz is steep and sort of loose.  Bring a penny to pound into the log across the trail near the top.  You will recognize this log immediately.  This trail ends at Lunch Rock where packs may be left.  Most people stack their packs in the litter stashed there in a vain attempt to keep their lunch from falling victim to the "Tahquitz attack squirrels".  The hike to Suicide leaves the climber near the base of the Weeping Wall, home of many greasy friction fests!

The rock at both Tahquitz and Suicide is granite and is similar to the granite found in Yosemite Valley.  The latest guide book is "Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks" by Randy Vogel and Bob Gaines.  My version is by the Chockstone Press but Chockstone has been sold to Falcon Publishing.  Earlier guide books have been written by Randy Vogel and an even earlier version was written by Chuck Wilts.  Recommended routes at Tahquitz are "Fingertrip", 5.7, "Traitor Horn", 5.8, "Mechanics Route", 5.8, "Open Book", 5.9, "Super Pooper", 5.10a (supposedly), and "The Vampire", 5.11a.  At Suicide the recommended routes are "The Guillotine", 5.8 (run it out and blow it and you will get the "chop"!), "Flower of High Rank", 5.9, "Ten Karat Gold", 5.10a, "Sundance", 5.10b, and "Valhalla", 5.11a.  You won't be disappointed.

Getting to the town of Idyllwild is done from either Hemet, California, via route 74 or from Banning, California, via route 243.  The nearest airports are Palm Springs and Ontario if you are flying into the area.  Camping is available at the state campground and the county campground.  "Mattress people" (boulderers) may prefer the county campground since there is decent bouldering on some rocks in or near the campground.  The state park is Mount San Jacinto State Park and is located right off highway 243 near downtown Idyllwild.  Information may be obtained at 909-659-2607 and reservations may be made at 800-444-7275.  The county park is located near the state park but off on a side street.  Information for Idyllwild County Park may be obtained at 909-659-2656 and reservations made at 800-234-7275.  There used to be "free" camping up in Humber Park which was achieved by parking there and sneaking off into the woods.  Unfortunately, Humber Park falls under the wonderful "Adventure Pass" program and the last I knew the rangers would occasionally bust people camping up there.  My friends Jack and Gretchen inform me that they have been using the same "Adventure Pass" for two years so the enforcement is apparently not very diligent.

The suggested restaurants in Idyllwild are as follows.  For breakfasts try Jan's Red Kettle, a climbers hangout forever near the center of town, the Idyllwild Café on highway 243 heading out towards Hemet, and the Bread Basket on North Circle Drive heading towards Humber Park.  Dinners are available at the Bread Basket, the Gastrognome (good but expensive), Idyllwild Pizza Company near the center of town, and Vercollini's Italian Restaurant (the best) which is also on highway 243.  There are one or two Mexican places in town but they seem to change names frequently so you will have to ask around if that is your preference.  Finally, for emergency services in Idyllwild, call 911.  Be nice to the paramedics and say hi to Jack Peckham!

• Rick Booth

Trip Reports

Temple Crag

 Sunribbon Arete

May 26/27 2001

The first time I saw Temple Crag was on the long slog up to the Palisade glacier. I was mesmerized by the spectacular but intimidating aretes, ridges and buttress that ascend the North East face. I wasn't sure how hard they were, but I sure wanted to climb one!.

Over Memorial weekend this year, Chris Sproul and I chose to give the Sunribbon arete a try. It's rated grade IV 5.9 (including a tyrolean traverse) and has 18 pitches. Sounded like a big day!

A casual hike up the North Fork of Big Pine Creek took us to the outlet of third lake. Crossing the outlet turned out to be a bit of a balancing act over large but loose tree trunks bobbing in the fast flowing creek. But we made it safely, unlike the hapless character in sneakers in front of us!. Crossing a small boulder field, we found a large patch of sand close at the base of the North buttress to set up camp. We expected to have to melt snow for water, but it turned out there was a small melt water stream coming out of one of the snow banks.

That afternoon we ascended the gently sloping snow field up to the snow gully that divides the moongoddess arete and the sunribbon arete. We continued up the snow gully to take a look at the start of the climb and to leave our climbing rope and pro at the base of the climb. As an added benefit, the climb up the soft snow meant that we had a nice set of steps for the following morning, which was very useful as the snow froze pretty hard overnight and we only had one ice axe and one set of crampons between us.  We returned to our tent and took in the climb as the sun set. The notch requiring the Tyrolean traverse was easily visible and looked very exposed.

At 4:30 am the next morning, just as it was getting light, we hiked back up to the base of the climb, threw our crampons and ice axe back down the snow ramp, and headed up and right across a large ledge to the start of the first pitch. This is a very nice clean 5.7 corner, but this early in the morning at 11,000 feet it felt a tad harder!. This was followed by simulclimbing two pitches of 3rd class which brought us to the 1st gendarme and the arete proper. The 2nd gendarme 5 pitches up didn't look far, but as we found out, you totally loose perspective on this climb. We simulclimbed quite a bit up this thoroughly enjoyable exposed but moderate section but still took 3 pitches. We stopped at the 2nd gendarme for a bite to eat and to enjoy the scenery. We'd already got in 2/3's of the elevation gain, and it was only 10am. The weather was perfect, no wind or clouds, and although it's a north facing climb, the arete is exposed enough, and laid back enough that we were actually in the sun all day long. This was alpine climbing at it's best.

Now for the Tyrolean traverse (or a rap and a 5.7 face climb). I must admit it didn't quite look like what I was expecting. Secor said 15 foot to a block. Well the gap was about 15 foot, but the block was another 8 feet further back. Seemed a bit unlikely to us. Lassoing is not something I've had much practice with, but Chris convinced me I was the man for the job. So I measured out a loop of about 50 feet and threw it, then hauled it back and threw it again, etc, etc. Actually it didn't take too long to get in about a dozen throws by which time I was getting the hang of it. With encouraging cries of "ride 'em cowboy" from Chris I finally snagged the block. We tied off our ends to 2 pins, an old stopper and a ton of old webbing. The distance is short enough that prussics and the like are not needed, and it was quite easy to haul yourself across the gap to a convenient ledge 5 foot below where the rope was being supported. Chris went across first and threw back the rope so that I could run it through the webbing and throw it back to him to tie off around the block. I soon joined him on the other side and pulled the roped. Retreat would be difficult now!

A short ridge section brought us to the crux 5.9 crack/corner pitch. Secor mentioned that there is a delicate 5.8 traverse that cuts out the lower part of the crack. Spying two newish pins at the start of the traverse, and a somewhat dirty looking start to the crack I figured the traverse was the way to go.  Once into the corner, the second 5.9 crux never seemed to materialize. I continued up into the next pitch until I was sure I must have past the worst and brought Chris up. A little disappointing in a way, definitely didn't get harder than 5.8 in my book. But enjoyable climbing anyway.

From here on the arete begins to turn into a ridge and the gendarmes and other blocks begin to cause some serious rope drag. So although the climbing was quite moderate, we were limited to how far we could stretch a pitch. In some case just a couple of pieces of pro over 200 feet was enough to bring the leader to a halt. So the last 7 long pitches went quite a bit slower than we had anticipated. With hindsight, we should have coiled up about half the rope and simulclimbed much closer together. But it was still a beautiful day so it wasn't really a problem. After 9 1/2 hours of climbing we finally rounded the last gendarme and scampered up the remaining 4th class pitch to the summit ridge.

After a quick jaunt up to the summit to take in the spectacular views of the Palisades, we descended the easy scree slope down towards Contact pass. Making sure to keep a large gully off to our right we eventually came to a short cliff face directly above contact pass. A single rope rap got us down to the pass. Following a relatively short hike back around to the original snow gully for our crampons and ice axe, it was back to the tent for some well earned grub.

This is a fun and high quality alpine climb. It takes very good pro, is hard to get off route, but is exposed and long. Moving fast is relatively easy as long as you are confident at 5.7 with little pro.

We used a small Alpine rack (handful of stoppers, selection of cams from small aliens up to #2 camalot, and small tricams) and lots of longs slings (very important).

• Bruce Bousfield (author) and Chris Sproul

Snake Dike

June 10, 2001

There were three of us on this climb, including my nine-year -old son Gregory (who may be the youngest person yet to climb this popular route).  We hiked up to the base of the climb the day before.  There are good bivi spots just below the start of the climb.   Much to my surprise, we were the only ones camped there that night.

We got an early start the next morning, but with the three of us we made slow progress.  I had done the climb twice before and knew the route pretty well, and therefore I did all the leading.  Gregory always went second on the rope, and my climbing friend Tom brought up the rear as well as one heavy pack containing all our bivi gear.  As we slowly worked our way up the climb, I kept an eye out for other climbers coming up from below us.  Much to my surprise, we only saw one other party all day long.  These other climbers passed by us just below the end of the roped climbing.

We finally reached the top of Half Dome at about 2:00 pm.  Unlike the last time I had climbed Snake Dike, we did not find the summit covered with hoards of hikers.  Actually, even though it was a nice weekend, we did not see massive crowds anywhere in Yosemite.

After resting on the top for about an hour, we headed down the cables and began the long hike back to the Valley.  We finally arrived back at our car near Camp Curry around 6:30 pm.  After dinner at the re-designed Curry cafeteria, we headed for home.

Here are some notes on the climb for those interested in doing this popular route:  The climbing is easy, but the approach is a killer.  Leaving the trail early and going through the canyon between Liberty Cap and Mt. Broderick is shorter, but involves some serious bush-whacking.  Better to hike to the top of Nevada Falls and go around the backside of Liberty Cap. Since most of the climb is protected by bolts, the only gear you would need is maybe two or three small to medium cams,  and three or four small to medium stoppers.  Although the climb can be done with a 50-meter rope, it is best to use a 60-meter or longer rope to minimize the number of belays.  Using a long rope will give you five pitches of class 5 climbing and two pitches of class 4.  A shorter rope will add at least two more pitches to the climb.

• George Sinclair

The Nevahbe Ridge

 On Mt Morgan (N), 13,005 ft.

June 23, 2001

Moynier and Fiddler describe this airy ridge (100 Best Climbs in the High Sierra) and say that you start by crossing McGee Creek just before the pack station and get onto the ridge via a steep cuoloir. Well, I parked at the McGee Creek trailhead and by 7.15am, Saturday, 23rd June was walking back towards the pack station, looking for a place to get onto the ridge. I had seen no cuoloir and so had left the axe and crampons in the car. Through a soggy meadow and trees, wading the creek and on the steep, low-brush covered slope towards the ridge and soon I was at the top of the first bump, looking at a small dip and then a sharp ridge (ridge-A) consisting of many towers and gendarmes and this ridge itself seemed to hit an east-west ridge, which, I now assume, is the actual Nevahbe Ridge. There were class-2 options on both sides of ridge-A but I choose to climb it head on and was soon rewarded by some beautiful class-3 and maybe mild class-4 climbing on friable rock. "But, that is the beauty of this climb", Kai Weidman, had told me when I had asked him for beta. After this, I was on the ridge and followed it as it snaked southwest and then southwards. There are numerous ups and downs and I was tempted to skirt them to avoid them but followed Kai's advice to stick to the ridge and to not be discouraged by the many towers. The ridge looks deceptively short from the road but it is long and winding and it took me about seven hours to reach the dark top (point 12553 on the Morrison 15 min) and much to my chagrin, the long summit ridge of Morgan seemed even further away, separated from this point by a saddle. I was very tempted to bail out as the sandy slopes on my right looked very tempting but I plodded on, down to the saddle and then up again on the white blocky ridge. From my assessment and reading of the topo, the summit appears to be a bump on a long curving ridge. I came up to a high point and then another high point on the south. Looking back, the north point seemed slightly higher. I saw no register but I also did not look long and hard. My GPS-altimeter registered 13015 and Morgan is 13005, so I decided that this was it and also, all this blocky stuff was getting tiring so I headed back. It was 3 pm. Some easy walking down the sandy plain and then a dropoff on the left on red coloured rock dropped me into Esha Canyon. This is a most enjoyable hike down and the canyon is spectacular. It has a high tarn that drains into another below via a series of small waterfalls. The wildflowers were in bloom. A sketchy trail sometimes showed up on the sandy sections but for the most part it was hard on the knees to descend this but the cool breeze and the beautiful canyon walls took my tiredness away. 2 coyotes came running up the canyon, saw me and veered away. I was in thrall! Kai had said that it had took him and his team a whole day. Yes, count on it. I was back to my car at 7 pm, a twelve hour day.

It maybe that the real start of the ridge from the toe is harder. I still got a lot of class-3 and some class-4 on my variation of the start.

This is a very enjoyable climb but remember to not trust any handhold and make sure that before pulling yourself up, you are secure. Many thanks to PCS climber, Kai Weidman, for the information and advice provided to me.

• Arun Mahajan

Private Trips

Private trips may be submitted directly to the Scree Editor, but are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra Club. They are listed here because they may be of interest to PCS members.

Mt Brewer

Peaks:          Mt Brewer (13570) class-2, N. Guard  (13327) class-3/4
Dates:          July 4th-8th
Maps:           Mt Whitney (15) Mt Brewer (7.5)
Organizer:    Siamak Navid (707) 537-9293 H,
(707) 794-5331 W, sia_navid@agilent.com

The trailhead is Cedar Grove in Kings Canyon. We will take the first two days to get to the uppermost Sphinx Lakes (11000) via Sphinx Creek trail. The two lay over days are for our main peaks. Depending on the conditions we might try other peaks. Brewer is class-2 but N Guard can  get tricky and exposed at the top. We will probably take a rope. Ice axes will be required.

Mt Rainier

Peak:            Mt. Rainier (14,410); Kautz Glacier Route
Date:             Thru, July 5-Sun, July 8
Contact:       Steve Eckert, eckert@climber.org,
Bob Evans robtwevans@email.msn.com; (408) 998-2857

Glacier travel; 50+ degree snow/ice; fixed ropes to be used; participants to be screened for roped glacier exp.

The prized summit of the Washington State highpoint is the goal of this conclusion to a week in the Cascade volcanos. Participants are welcome to do only Rainier or to join in Adams and others (see accompanying announcement).  For route information, see the trip report of R. Karpel 7/00.  To reserve a park permit with the group, deposit $35 for the NPS fee with Bob before May 1, 01, or take your chances picking up permit without reservation. Meet at Paradise parking lot on Thursday AM, July 5. Return  on Sunday PM, July 8.

Participants will be screened for roped glacier experience - this isNOT the standard route, and some real climbing (open crevasses)is certain to happen.

Mt Rainier

Peak:            Mt. Rainier (14,410), Fuhrer Finger Route
Date:             July 7th - 10th
Contact:       Maxym Runov, maxym@elegantsoft.com

Glacier travel; 45+ degree snow/ice

This is one of shortest routes to the summit from Paradise Parking lot. High camp will be on Wapovety Clever (west side of the Wilson Glacier) at about 9,400'.

This trip involves both glacier travel and a moderately steep alpine ice climbing. We will travel roped up on the glacier and use pickets and ice screws for belay on the steep ice section.

Participants must be experienced in using ice axe and crampons for snow travel, have previous training in glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques.

I must know you or you should be recommended by people I know.

Boundary Peak

Peak:            Boundary Peak, Class 2 (13,143') (Nevada state highpoint)
Dates:          July 6, 7 (Friday, Saturday)
Leader:        Alan Ritter, jar@eng.bausch.com (St. Louis, MO)636 226 3364 (work)

Queen Canyon approach to Boundary Peak.  Meet at gravel road 2.5 miles east of the CA/NV border on Route 6, at noon on Friday, July 6.  Drive as far as possible up the road and jeep trails to Kennedy Point, hike along the ridge to Trail Canyon Saddle.  Camp there (carry all needed water!), climb Boundary Peak on Saturday & return to the cars. An energetic subset of the group may wish to extend the climb to Montgomery, another mile along the ridge on the CA side of the line.

Mt. Goethe

Peak:            Mt Goethe via Lamarck Col, class 2, 13,264'
Dates:          July 13-15, Fri-Sat-Sun
Map:              Mt Goddard 15'
Contact:       Debbie Benham, 650/964-0558, deborah4@pacbell.net

Enjoy a leisurely stroll over Lamarck  Col, easily the most popular cross-country route across the Sierra crest between Bishop Pass and Piute Pass. We'll hike in Friday, summit Saturday, and depart Sunday. Given tthe group's interest, we can climb Mt Lamarck on the way home. Ice axe and crampons will be required, and participants must be proficient in their use. You will be asked to sign a liability waiver.

Permit for 6. $10 reserves your spot and is fully refundable at the trailhead.

Tenaya Canyon

Peaks:          canyon descent, cl.4, rappel required
Dates:          July 14-15
Maps:           Tuolumne Mdws, Hetch Hetchy Res. 15'
Contact:       Bob Suzuki 408-259-0772(H),
                      suzukir@sd-star.com, bobszk@bigfoot.com

We'll take 2 days to explore this seldom visited canyon that connects the Tenaya Lake high country with majestic

Yosemite Valley. This all cross-country backpack will  include sun baked granitic slabs, a cascade rappel, great views of Clouds Rest and Half Dome, as well as more than a little fighting through serious brush.

Previous class 4 travel and roped climbing experience will be necessary.

Motherland of the Crows

Peaks:          Big, Black & Red Kaweah, Triple Divide, etc; class 2 to class 3+
Dates:          Jun 30 - Jul 8  Sat-Sun , Maps:                                   Mineral King, Triple Divide & Whitney 15 min.
Leader:        Charles Schafer H 408-354-1545, W 408-855-4318 , c_g_schafer@yahoo.com

Famed for its isolation, feted for its jagged crags, feared for its  loose rubble, the Kaweah Peaks Ridge stands apart as one of the least visited climbing areas in the Sierra Nevada.  Join us for a challenging, arduous week in the land named by the Yokut Indians as "The Motherland of the Crows", after the scavenging birds picking clean the skeletons of fallen mountaineers.  Limit 4.

Sat: Hike from Mineral King, over Glacier Pass, to Spring Lake.
Sun: Hike over Blackrock Pass, past Big Arroyo, up to Kaweah Tarn.
Mon: Climb Black Kaweah.
Tue: Climb Big Kaweah , Red Kaweah or Mt Eisen; camp in Big Arroyo.
Wed: Hike to Nine Lakes Basin.  Climb Mt Stewart.
Thu: Climb Triple Divide Peak and maybe also Lion Rock.
Fri: Climb Mt Lippincott.  Move camp to Little Five Lakes.
Sat: Hike out to Mineral King.
Sun: Rain date.


Dates:          Aug 11-19 (Sat-Sun, full week)
Peaks:          Climb-O-Rama (see below, many options)
Contact:       Steve Eckert, eckert@climber.org

This year we'll enter via Bear Creek (near Lake Edison, west side) and hang out around the many bear lakes (White, Black, Teddy, etc). From this area you'll have access to Hooper, Senger, Seven Gables, Gemini, Merriam, Royce, Feather, Julius Caesar, Hilgard, Mist, Recess, Volcanic Knob, Gabb, Bear Creek Spire, Dade, Abbot, Mills.

Bear Creek rivals any stream in the Sierra for waterfalls and pools, and the high tundra between Julius Caesar and Seven Gables is the sort of place where you wander from tarn to tarn thinking each is more beautiful than the last. Peaks in the area range from crud piles to surprisingly nice views, and the campsites are second to none.

We'll try to camp together, as always, and split into groups for the peaks based on what people are interested in and how fast they are. Last year's C-o-R was the only one where we didn't get all of our objectives, due to a freak monsoon, so contact me now and help set the agenda for the main group!

Sierra Emblem Challenge

Peaks:          10 Emblem Peaks in 10 Days
Date:             August 2001
Contact:       Bob Burd, snwbord@hotmail.com
                      Steve Keltie, dns306@cs.com

Info:               http://members.nbci.com/snwburd/emblem/

The Sierra Emblem Challenge is a series of dayhikes to the most impressive peaks in the Sierra Nevada. All of these hikes are very strenuous in both miles logged and vertical feet gained. Ten of 15 Emblem Peaks have been chosen for this 10-day event beginning Aug 4, 2001. The Challenge is open to anyone. This is a Wilderness experience, with serious risks that are each participant’s responsibility. No emergency services of any kind is available to those in trouble.

Lone Pine Peak

Peak:            Lone Pine (just under 13000)
Dates:          Sept. 15
Leader:        George Van Gorden, 408 779 2320, gvangord@mhu.k12.ca.us
Co-Leader:  Bill Kirkpatrick, wmkirk@earthlink.net

Up to the Whitney Portal without the hassle and exhaustion of Whitney.

We will meet at the Meysan Lake trailed early Saturday, hike for all we're worth (which at least for me won't be that much) up to the second

Meysan Lake which is situated in a spectacular bowl, scramble up a bit of talus onto a sublime plateau overlooking the Owens Valley and the beautiful metropolis of Lone Pine, and then ascend the few remaining feet to the summit.  We should get back to our cars by nightfall.

Winchell: A Chute Less Traveled

Peak:            Mount Winchell, Class 4-5, 13,775'
Date:             September 22-23, Sat-Sun
Contact:       David Harris 909-607-3623 David_Harris@hmc.edu

Mount Winchell is usually climbed by the classic East Arete.  But Secor says the West Chute of Mt. Winchell goes at "Class 4-5" from the Dusy Basin and was first climbed by none less than Eichorn, Dawson, and Olmstead in 1930!

Let'sgo find out what the route is really rated.  On Saturday we'll pack in over Bishop Pass to the base of the route, with an optional excursion up Agassiz.

On Sunday we'll start early and find our way up the "difficult chimneys" to the summit.  I'm looking to put together two two-person rope teams.

You should be comfortable on 5th class terrain at high altitude.

If you haven't climbed with me, please include your climbing resume and a reference.

Mt Kilimanjaro

Peak::           Mt. Kilimanjaro  19,400 ft.
Date:             January 2002
Contact:       Warren Storkman, 650-493-8959, dstorkman@aol.com

Six nights on Kilimanjaro - plus four nights at the Marangu Hotel under $800.00. Safari after trek, optional

Hut Work Parties

Editor’s Note: Although these work parties are not peak climbing trips, they are listed here because many people in the PCS are also active in the Ski Touring Section. This gives us the opportunity to help another section.

Benson Hut

Date:             Jul 21-22  Sat-Sun 
Leaders:      Carol Vellutini (707-546-6308)
                      Ed Schreiber (707-253-0293).

Maintenance weekend at backcountry hut on Pacific Crest Trail south of Donner Summit.  Stay at Club's Clair Tappaan Lodge in Norden Fri night, overnight at the hut Sat, return Sun.  Tools, food, supplies provided; you bring simple backpack gear.  Leaders:

Re-Roof of Benson Hut

Date:             Jul 27 - Aug 5 
Leaders:      Leaders: Carol Vellutini (707-546-6308),
                      Doug Porter (707-321-3784)
Dick Simpson (650-494-9272), rsimpson@magellan.stanford.edu.

Replace the roof at backcountry hut on Pacific Crest Trail south of Donner Summit.  Stay at Club's Clair Tappaan Lodge or at the hut.  Over 100 people volunteered when the hut was built over 50 yrs ago; this project is smaller but requires equal enthusiasm. 

Peter Grubb Hut

Date:             Aug 11-19, Sat-Sun 
Leaders:      Chris MacIntosh 650-325-7841
Dick Simpson 650-494-9272, rsimpson@magellan.stanford.edu
                      Debbie Benham 650-964-0558

Help renovate classic backcountry hut near Donner Summitused by cross-country skiers and snowshoers.  Painting, new kitchen, new outhouse, general clean up.  Sign up for 1, 2, or more days.

Benson  Hut

Date:             Sep 8-9  Sat-Sun
Leaders:      Carol Vellutini (707-546-6308) and
                      Ed Schreiber (707-253-0293).

Maintenance weekend at backcountry hut on Pacific Crest Trail south of Donner Summit.  Stay at Club's Clair Tappaan Lodge in Norden Fri night, overnight at the hut Sat, return Sun.  Tools, food, supplies provided; you bring simple backpack gear.  

Peter Grubb

Date:             Sep 22-23, Sat-Sun
Leader:        Debbie Benham (650-964-0558)

Prepare classic backcountry hut near Donner Summit for use by cross-country skiers and snowshoers next winter.  Stay at Club's Clair Tappaan Lodge Fri night, overnight at the hut, return Sun.  Tools, food, supplies provided; you bring simple backpack gear.

Bradley Hut

Date:             Oct 13-14, Sat-Sun
Leader:        Dick Simpson 650-494-9272 rsimpson@magellan.stanford.edu

Maintenance at backcountry hut near Squaw Valley. Stay at Club's Clair Tappaan Lodge in Norden Fri night, overnight at the hut Sat, return Sun.  Tools, food, supplies provided; you bring simple backpack gear.

Truckee River Day

Date:             Oct 14, Sun 
Leaders:      Dick Simpson 650-494-9272 rsimpson@magellan.stanford.edu
Harvey Ceaser 925-937-1406 ceaser3@Juno.com

Help restore Truckee River drainage with hundreds of other volunteers.  Specific projects to be determined as date approaches.  Organized jointly with Bradley Hut work party (above).

Elected Officials

     Dee Booth / rdbooth@worldnet.att.net
     408-354-7291 home
     237 San Mateo Avenue, Los Gatos, CA 95030

Vice Chair and Trip Scheduler:
     Nancy Fitzsimmons / pkclimber@aol.com
     408-957-9683 home
     1025 Abbott Avenue, Milpitas, CA 95035

Treasurer and Membership Roster (address changes):
     Scott Kreider / pcs-treasurer@climber.org
     408-737-8709 home
     1007 S Wolfe Road #5, Sunnyvale, CA 94086

Publicity Committee Positions

Scree Editor:
     Bob Bynum / pcs-editor@climber.org
     510-659-1413 home

PCS World Wide Web Publisher:
     Jim Curl / pcs_webmaster@yahoo.com
     San Francisco, CA

Publicity Chair:
     Rick Booth / rwbooth@home.com
     408-354-7291 home
     237 San Mateo Avenue, Los Gatos, CA 95030

Scree is the monthly journal of the Peak Climbing Section of the Sierra Club, Loma Prieta Chapter.

Our official website is http://www.sierraclub.org/chapters/lomaprieta/pcs/

Subscriptions and Email List Info

Hard copy subscriptions are $10. Subscription applications and checks payable to “PCS” should be mailed to the Treasurer so they arrive before the last Tuesday of the expiration month. If you are on the official email list (lomap-pcs-announce@lists.sierraclub.org) or one of the email lists the PCS feeds (either the sierra-nevada@climber.org discussion list or the california-news@climber.org read-only list), you have a free EScree subscription. For email list details, send "info lomap-pcs-announce" to "listserv@lists.sierraclub.org", or send anything to "info@climber.org". EScree subscribers should send a subscription form to the Treasurer to become voting PCS members at no charge. The Scree is on the web as both plain text and fully formatted Adobe Acrobat/PDF.

Rock Climbing Classifications

The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing trips for which you are qualified. No simple rating system can anticipate all possible conditions.
     Class 1: Walking on a trail.
     Class 2: Walking cross-country, using hands for balance.
     Class 3: Requires use of hands for climbing, rope may be used.
     Class 4: Requires rope belays.
     Class 5: Technical rock climbing.

Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 7/29/2001.  Meetings are the second Tuesday of each month.

Peak Climbing Section, 789 Daffodil Way, San Jose CA 95117

"Vy can't ve chust climb?" - John Salathe                                              First Class Mail - Dated Material