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This is the EScree - the Electronic version of the Scree newsletter from
the Peak Climbing Section of the Loma Prieta Chapter of the Sierra Club.
It should be viewed or printed with a fixed-pitch font such as Courier.
     This publication may not be posted on any public news group.
                  March, 2000	Vol. 34 No. 3
     Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 3/26/2000. 

This issue of Scree will be on the Official PCS Website at

Next general meeting (PCS meetings are the second tuesday of each month)

Date:	Tuesday, March 14
Time:	8:00 PM
Program:	To Be Determined

Directions:	2344 El Camino Real, Santa 
Clara (between San Thomas and Los Padres), 
parking in the rear.

From 101: Exit at San Thomas Expressway, Go 
South to El Camino Real. Turn left and the Western 
Mountaineering will be immediately to your right.

(PDF version has a drawn map here)

Become A PCS Leader

Why should you become a PCS trip leader?

Leading is a great way to give something back to the club that 
taught you to climb.

Leading helps you polish your climbing skills in a way that 
following never can.

Leading guarantees that there will be PCS trips going to the 
destinations that you most desire.

How can you become a PCS trip leader?

Familiarize yourself with the requirements described in

http://www.climber.org/pcs/Binder/LeaderGuidelines.txt and


Get your first aid certification, co-lead trips with current PCS 
leaders, and send a letter of application to the chair of the 
mountaineering committee.

Participate in PCS leader activities like leadership training hikes 
and the annual spring trip-planning meeting.

    But what if you're not a great mountaineer?

If you only ever lead beginner trips, you would still be doing a 
service to the club and enjoying the personal benefits of PCS 

-- Aaron Schuman

Mountaineering Leadership Course

The Sierra Club Angeles Chapter is offering a four-weekend class 
for people who want to lead mountaineering trips. The 
Mountaineering Leadership Course features trip on rock and 
snow as well as extensive classroom work on safety and trip 
management. Cost is $100. The deadline to apply is March 8.

Prospective students should have made at least one rock trip with 
ropes and one snow trip involving ice ax and crampons.

For more details, visit the Angeles Chapter Leadership Training 
Web site at http://www.angeleschapter.org/ltc. Or send a self-
addressed, stamped envelope to LTC Registrar Ron Campbell, 
21432 Dockside Circle, Huntington Beach, CA 92646.

-- Ron Campbell 

Basic Backpacking Course

Editor's Note: This is the finest backpacking course that I have 
ever seen. Four years ago, I took the course so I can personally 
recommend it. Even though I had been backpacking for 25 years 
when I took the course, I learned many new things and perhaps 
more important, made some new friends.

Date:	Tuesday Evenings April 18 to June 6

Contact:	Steve Stearns, 650-941-8676, Dan 
Cobb, 650-631-9303, or Bob Bynum 
510-659-1413, rfbynum@aol.com

Interested in learning how to backpack but don't know how 
to get started? Done some backpacking but want to learn 
the principles - what to buy, where to go, what to bring? 
The Backpack Section's "Basic Backpacking Course" is for 
you. The course includes seven two-hour classes covering 
equipment, wilderness manners, mountain first aid, finding 
your way and trip planning - and 3 backpack trips. The 
course will help the participants choose the right 
equipment. The discussion sessions will be held in the Palo 
Alto area on successive Tuesday nights from April 18 
through June 6, 6:30-8:30 PM. The field trips dates are: 
May 6 and 7; May 20 and 21; and June 3 and 4 (drive up 
evening of June 2). The first trip is to a local park, the 
second will be a bit more remote (e.g. Ventana or Henry 
Coe Park) and the third will be to the Sierra, snowpack 
permitting. The trips are open to class members only, and a 
person must go on one of the first two trips to qualify for 
the Sierra trip. The class is limited to 40 people on a first-
come basis. An adult must accompany anyone under 18 
years of age. The cost of the course is $75 per person 
including books. The class proceeds are donated to 
conservation and trail maintenance groups.

To enroll, send your name, address, and home & work 
phone numbers to:

Basic Backpacking Course
2960 Monte Cresta Drive
Belmont, CA 94002

Enclose a check for $75 payable to "Backpack Section - Loma 
Prieta Chapter". Also enclose a stamped, self-addressed, legal-
size envelope so we can mail you the

2000 Advance Trip List

This is the list of trips planned for Spring and Summer. Please do 
not contact the leaders until the trips are announced in the "Scree" 
or on the broadcast list.

-- Dee Booth

DATES               PEAKS                                         LEADERS

12                  Tinker Knob                                   Aaron Schuman
12                  Tinker Traverse                               Steve Eckert
19                  Round Top                                     Arun Mahajan, Adrienne Van Gordon

1                   Mt Diablo                                     Bob Suzuki & Rex Jennett
5, 8-9              Rock Climbing Class                           Ron Karpel
8-9                 Sawtooth Peak and Spanish Needle              Aaron Schuman
21-23               Siretta, Rockhouse, Taylor Dome, Sawtooth     Bob Suzuki & Joe Budman
29-30               Baker or Adams(Washington)                    Steve Eckert

6-7                 Mt Lassen & Borkeoff Peak                     Ron Karpel
6                   Mt Lassen                                     George Van Gorden
7                   Leadership Training                           Kelly Maas
13-14               Split and Prater                              Steve Eckert
27-29               Feather Peak                                  Kai Weidman
27-29               Mt Shasta, Bolam Glacier                      George Van Gorden

3-4                 Mt Shasta Sargent's Ridge                     Kai Weidman
10-11               Lola & Donner or Castle                       Aaron Schuman & Pat Ibbetson
10-11               Gilbert & Johnson                             Dee Booth
10-11               Morrison &Bloody                              Bob Suzuki & Sam Wilke
16-19               Thomson & Powell                              Bob Suzuki
23-25               Mt Shasta Avalanche Gulch                     No Leader
24-28               TBD in the Rockies (CMC exchange trip)        Steve Eckert

5-8                 Mt. Rainerr Camp Hazard/Kautz Glacier         Ron Karpel & George Van Gorden
8-9                 Four Gables                                   Debbie Benham & Chris Macitosh
14-16               Muah & Cartago                                Bob Suzuki & Rich Leiker
22-23               Dana & Gaylor                                 Debbie Benham &Chris Macintosh
22-23               Mt Hoffman                                    Joan Marshall & Nancy Fitzsimmons
28-31               Mt Whitney & Mt. Russel                       Ron Karpel
29-8/6              Climb-o-rama, Mt Stanford & Mt. Erricson Area Bob Suzuki & Steve Eckert

5-7                 Mt Lamark, Goethe & Pilot Knob                Aaron Schuman
8-9                 Bear Creek Spire & Mt Dade                    Aaron Schuman
10-11               Mt Baldwin & Bloody Peak(day hikes)           Aaron Schuman
12-13               Iron Mountain & San Joaquin Mt(day hikes)     Aaron Schuman
14-15               Boundary Peak                                 Alan Ritter
16-20               Mt Whitney                                    Alan Ritter
19-20               Mt. Humphreys East Ridge                      Bob Suzuki & Nancy Fitzsimmons

2-4                 Highland Peak                                 Aaron Schuman
2-4                 Sawtooth, Needham, Vandever, Florence         Bob Suzuki & Joan Marshall
9-10                Excelsior, & Warren(day hikes)                Joe Budman
15-17               University, Kearsarge, & Independence         Bob Suzuki & Joan Marshall
23-24               Blackhawk                                     Aaron Schuman

28                  Leavitt & Disaster                            Aaron Schuman

PCS Trips

PCS trips must be submitted through the Scheduler (see back 
cover for details). Trips not received from the Scheduler will be 
listed as PRIVATE, without recourse.

*** Tinker Knob
Peak:	Tinker Knob, 8949 ft, class 1 snowshoe/ski trip
Date:	Sunday, March 12, 2000
Leaders:	Aaron Schuman, aaron_schuman@yahoo.com,
	Arun Mahajan, arun@tollbridgetech.com

Tinker Knob is a rounded hump of a peak in the Tahoe National 
Forest. It can be approached either from Sugar Bowl or from 
Squaw Valley. The PCS group will do a there-and-back trip from 
one of the ski resorts.

On the same day another group will do a one way ski traverse 
with a car shuttle.

*** Mt Diablo
Peak:	Mt. Diablo (3,849')
Date:	April 1, 2000
Leader:		Bob Suzuki rsuzuki@dspt.com H: 408-259-0772
Co-leader:	Rex Jennett datsrex@netzero.net H: 650-961-1618

Description: Bag this desirable peak and enjoy a 17 mile loop and 
panoramic views in this East Bay park. Wear boots if trails are 
muddy. Heavy rain cancels.
Co-listed with the Day Hiking Section.
Carpool Time: 7:00 AM
Carpool Location: Cubberly High (Middlefield & Montrose) in Palo Alto
Time at Trail head: 8:00 AM
Trail head location: Macedo Ranch at end of Green Valley Road in Danville

*** Rock Climbing Practice

Dates:	Tue. April 4th (evening session), Sat. April 8th 
(practice), Sat. April 15th (backup date)
Leaders:	Ron Karpel, Kelly Maas, Rick Booth
Contact:	Ron Karpel, email: ronny@karpel.org (W)510-771-3231

This is a restricted outing of the Sierra Club. To participate, you 
must be a Sierra Club Member. Participants must be experience 
on class 3 terrain and will be required to use a helmet.

Our practice will emphasize safe rock climbing using rock 
climbing gear. The goal is to cover the kind of rock climbing 
situations one might encounter during mountaineering in the 
Sierra Nevada. We will practice climbing rock routes of class-4 
and easy class-5 (up to about 5.4) levels. Participants will train in 
general use of ropes, tying knots, using harnesses, using 
protections devices, setting anchors, using slings and biners, 
providing belay to leaders top rope belay to followers, tying in to 
a belay station, using belay devices, and practice rappelling. We 
do not intend to train in leading rock climbing.

The theory session will take place in a suitable location in the 
Bay Area (the Peninsula Conservation Center is one option). The 
practice itself will take place in the Pinnacles National 

*** Ohlone Traverse
Peak:	Conditioning hike
Date:	April 8
Leaders:	Cecil Anison	cecilann@earthlink.net (408)395-4525,
	Vreni Rau, (510)582-5578

Please come with us for a 20 mile hike from Del Valle to Sunol. 
With multicolored carpets of wildflowers, the Ohlone Wilderness 
Area is in its finest form. We hope to smell some of them along 
the way by hiking at a moderate pace. A key-exchange will make 
this a one-way trip.

+ Last weekend a climber took a bad fall off  +
+ Half Dome, crushing half his body. His left +
+ arm and left leg were both amputated.       +
+ But don't worry, he's all right now.        +

Mt. Silliman - Saturday, January 22, 2000

We made excellent time leaving the bay area and arrived at the 
Lodgepole campground in less than 5 hours on Friday. Saturday 
morning the sky was clear and we started at 830.

There were others who camped nearby who also set off to ice 
climb, though it seemed too warm (the river was flowing).

The trail was easy to follow even with a few inches of snow 
(mostly ice), and we saw many footprints of recent travelers. 
After 2-2.5 miles we turned right to walk up the river, while the 
footprints continued up the trail. A faint use trail was visible in 
places that had no snow.

Around the 8000-foot level we put on instep crampons to make 
the going a little easier on the hard snow/ice. The correct thing to 
do would have been to keep following the river and follow the 
right fork once it splits. Then go up to Silliman Lake, but we 
were veering more and more to the right of the river to make the 
going less of a bushwhack, and foolishly decided to climb up to 
the ridge. This turned out to be very steep and hard snow at the 
top, but once we got up to the ridge it was quite easy.

Eventually we got to the part of the ridge directly across from 
Silliman and we realized that to follow this ridge all the way to 
the summit would involve many more steep ups and downs. But 
the descent to Upper Silliman lake looked equally steep and 
treacherous with the thick ice layer. Around this time the wind 
started howling and clouds began to fly by overhead.

We followed the ridge for another hour and found a snowy slope 
down to the upper lake (in the summer this would probably be 
class 3 but the hard snow made it much easier). From here it was 
a quick snowshoe to the summit in the soft mushy afternoon snow 
(1-2 feet on the ground).

As we got to the summit all clouds disappeared and the wind 
stopped, giving us incredible views in all directions. The 
Kaweahs looked especially striking. Even more incredible was 
the sea of clouds that lay below us to the west at the ~6500 foot 
level from which tops of peaks stuck out! Bakersfield and the 
whole central valley had a completely foggy day while the peaks 
were in the sun.

After digging out the register, I noticed that many of the pages 
seemed to be eaten by mice/rats/marmots/hungry hikers?! The 
canister looked intact. It was left open in the summer.

We were the first group on the summit in 2000, and after taking 
many photographs we didn't start down until 3:45.

From the upper lake we followed the course of the river to where 
it splits and followed that back down to the trail. We made it to 
the campground at 6 just as night fell. If we had followed this 
route up, it would have taken only 3-4 hours (6 miles, 4500 feet 
gain). Sunday the plan was to do Alta, but the weather Gods 
foiled those plans.

After some photography in the sequoia groves we took off when 
the snowfall became really heavy. We escaped from the snowy 
part of the road minutes before chain requirements were posted - 
one in every 3 cars that we saw driving out had crashed into the 
rocks or trees alongside the road.

The relatively short mileage and mild slopes (if you go up the 
easy way!) make Silliman a really good winter dayhike. If you 
have time to go up to one of the highpoints on the ridge on the 
other side of the lake, you also get a good view of the area 
between Silliman and Alta Peak/Pear Lake, which is obstructed 
from the real summit.

-- Joe Budman and Alex Kuperman

Kilimanjaro 2000 - Jan 17-23, 2000 (summit Jan 22nd)

At the bottom is a list of participants, several URLs to other 
reports from our group, the URL where you can mail order a good 
topo map, the email address of our guide/hotel, and GPS 
waypoints for some points along the route. I was frustrated by a 
lack of solid info about a climb that has thousands of people on it 
every year, so please forgive my overuse of numbers in the report 
that follows. Also beware "the tyranny of a single data point", 
since conditions and weather patterns that we encountered may 
not be typical.

We had an overnight layover in Amsterdam and two nights in 
Tanzania before the climb. That was long enough for several of us 
to start having cold, flu, and GI tract problems... no surprise 
when you cross 11 time zones and eat unusual food after washing 
your hands with water that is unsafe to drink. (I know, the guides 
are fond of saying that all the water is just fine, but a bunch of us 
got sick anyway.)

Already popping Cipro pills, and after two nights in the Marangu 
Hotel (4700', waypoint MARHOT), we bounced up a very dusty 
road to the Machame trailhead (6200', waypoint MACHTH) 
where we all signed in and ate lunch. It was all uphill to the 
Machame Hut camp (10200', waypoint MACHAM) with some 
mud deep and sticky enough to remove Rebecca's shoe. (Did I 
mention she was hiking in running shoes because the brace 
around her stress-fractured-ankle hurt in hiking boots?)

One of our duffels showed up late to camp the first day, and we 
never saw that porter again. For the rest of the climb, our tent 
was up and our duffels were waiting by the time we got into 
camp. I had brought my own Sierra Designs expedition tent, 
wanting something more sturdy and roomy than the standard 
trekking tents Marangu provides, and it was always an adventure 
to see how the complicated poles were rigged since the porters 
had never seen a tent like this before. None of the "huts" on this 
route are what you could call climbing huts - they were used for 
cooking only by other groups, and we were seldom camped 
within sight of them. The first campsite was near treeline, and 
featured a stagnant pool of drinking water that made those who 
brought water filters glad we had them. My 4 micron pre-filter 
clogged every two quarts, and needed frequent backflushing, but 
did protect the main filter element.

Day 2 dawned damp but clear, and we headed up the steeper trail 
as the temps dropped and the clouds built in. By noon, our group 
was well spread out. Those of us at the back could no longer see 
the front when they stopped for lunch and hot tea, so my plan to 
light a Twinkie and have the whole group sing for my wife's 
birthday fell apart. By the time we reached camp (2:30pm) it was 
starting to sprinkle and my (unrefrigerated? 2 day old?) beef 
sandwich lunch was exploding in my gut, so I skipped dinner in 
what turned out to be the low point of the trip for me health-wise. 
I managed to drag myself out of the tent and present the "birthday 
cake" twinkies (with 39 wooden matches standing in for candles), 
but mostly tried to sleep it off.

Shira Camp is at 12800' (waypoint SHIRAH), but we hit 13000' 
that day as the trail popped up onto the plateau. GREAT scenery 
here, by the way, with scrub brush and moss on the rocks but no 
streams except the murky one in camp. The experts say you're 
supposed to gain 1000 to 1500 feet per day to avoid altitude 
sickness. We stayed at 4500', 10000', and then 13000'. People 
weren't feeling all that great, and we were looking forward with 
false hopes to an easier third day.

Day 3 saw us leaving camp as much earlier clouds started to 
form. Overnight temps had been in the 20s (F), and threading our 
way along sandy paths between volcanic boulders was a sharp 
contrast to the jungle that was behind us. The Cipro was working 
(both on my GI problem and my bronchial infection?), and I 
selected a spot near the back of the group to establish a plodding 
but sustainable pace. Rebecca had never been over 10000' before, 
so every step was a new personal altitude record... and an 
exercise in pacing herself.

Seamus had said there was a 15.5k pass, but I think it was more 
like 15k. Actually, there were two or three cold ridges to cross in 
the blowing fog-clouds, each adding to the day's gain, before we 
dropped steeply down to Barranco Camp at 13200' (waypoint 
BARNCO). Along the way we saw our only good clear-water 
stream of the trip, and I pumped a couple quarts of cold water as 
we relaxed in the sun before waking up the guide and finishing 
the day.

Day 4, and we're losing people. Betty had turned back after the 
first day, and now Leanne and Dixie were headed out via the 
Umbwe Trail - as much to avoid climbing "the wall" out of 
Barranco as anything else. The trail climbs steeply up a cliff face, 
looking very exposed from below, and there are one or two places 
where hands should be used. The maps are all wrong here, since 
the trail climbs in and out of valleys where the map shows a level 

We did 1200' of climbing, 1400' of dropping, and wound up in the 
Karanga Valley (13000', waypoint KARANG) where our guide 
wanted to spend the night even though we had all paid extra for a 
layover day at high camp. Continuing up to Barafu Camp 
involved 2400' of additional gain and would take us over 15000', 
but staying in Karanga meant we'd have only half a night at high 
camp before the summit. We were told there was no place to 
camp between the valley and high camp, but that was not true. 
We walked by several areas that were flatter than our site at 
Barafu. Since all the water had to be carried up from the valley to 
high camp, stopping somewhere halfway up would have been 
easier on the porters.

But wait, there's MORE! The group voted to stay in Karanga 
Valley, as our guide requested, but someone in the other lunch 
tent started a stampede and we headed up the trail shortly after 
voting not to. I still haven't gotten anyone to tell me what 
happened in the other tent, but someone there should have a role 
in presidential politics! As an added bonus, it started raining just 
after we started walking, and the rain slowly turned into snow 
which accumulated on us and the ground as we lost sight of each 
other and plodded our way up the hill. Jeff stayed behind with 
altitude sickness, probably enhanced by a chest infection or the 
flu setting in.

Enrique arrived at Barafu way before the rest of us, and was 
astonished to find the porters (some dressed in thin cotton, no 
gloves, bad shoes) huddled under rock outcroppings to stay out of 
the still-falling snow. The guides, needing them to set up camp, 
threw handfulls of dirt and snow up under the overhangs to drive 
out the porters. As our climbers arrived, several were 
hypothermic (one took her temperature to check, another just got 
thrown into his sleeping bag). We should have stayed in the 
valley. It wasn't a very fun afternoon, and the long day probably 
stopped a couple of people from climbing the peak.

[Weinstein comments on this report: "I don't agree with your 
opinions or observations regarding staying at the Karanga valley. 
I believe the number of people who made the crater, and the 
relative health of those people (Ray aside), speaks for the 
correctness of the decision to respect our original itinerary, and 
the height of the mountain. In any case, most everyone seemed to 
enjoy the vacation and to complete it safely. In the final analysis, 
that's all that matters."]

Day 5 was a layover day at Barafu (15300', waypoint BARAFU). 
Some people did an afternoon hike about 1000' higher, but most 
of us laid around in our tents. Some had headaches that lasted the 
entire time we were at high camp, the result of climbing too fast 
too soon. Others were having GI problems, and I think a few 
tossed it, but I just read my book and tried to keep drinking 
fluids. Jeff showed up after all, but didn't feel well even though 
his climb had been broken into two days.

Summit Day! Up at 11pm, walking at midnight, our guides set a 
pace so slow that even the sick among us could keep up. They 
kept us in a tight group for quite a while, but as various people 
turned back each of them took a guide with them. Others who 
weakened had a guide assigned to them (carrying day packs, in 
some cases steadying them as they climbed). As we climbed, it 
started to snow again: This was good news and bad news! It was 
far degrees warmer than just a few nights before, when climbers 
reported below-zero (F) temps, and the thin skiff of snow which 
collected on the ground reflected the full moon so we could see 
better. On the other hand, the wind and high humidity really 
made the 15F temp feel much colder. I had my baffled gore-tex 
down parka and expedition mitts on, and was not overly warm. 
This is the first time I've used chemical handwarmers in those 
mitts when it was above zero (F), and I've never buttoned up the 
down coat while climbing (not even on Denali's summit!). I was 
not at my best, still fighting off variousailments and afflictions, 
but pacing myself was easy on the mostly-dirt trail.

As dawn approached, we were within sight of Stella Point. The 
group took almost no rest breaks, but I was stopping on my own 
to fiddle with boots and gloves, and to tank as much water as I 
could. (Seamus said not to drink more than a quart, and we were 
provided nothing to eat for the 10+ hour summit climb, but I 
sloshed down 2 quarts of water and about 1500 calories of snacks 
brought from home.) A short sprint to the crater rim (waypoint 
STELLA) allowed some sunrise photos INTO the crater, plus a 
nice sunrise shot of the rest of the group. It was about a 45 
minute stroll over to the high point on low-angle trail from there 
to the high point (waypoint UHURUP, 19.3k).

As far as I can tell, Kilimanjaro refers to the entire mountain with 
many summits, Kibo refers to the highest volcano which is part of 
Kilimanjaro, and Uhuru Peak is the high point on the rim of the 
Kibo crater. Our arrival at Stella Point put us between Gillman's 
Point, where the standard route reaches the rim, and Uhuru.

By Stella Point, our group was mixed with others and we had no 
idea how many had turned back. At the summit, we thought about 
12 people had made it. As we headed down some time later, we 
were surprised to pass several of our group still ascending (in all, 
20 out of 30 made it all the way to Uhuru). At least one of the 
late arrivals was unresponsive, not looking at me or 
acknowledging my greeting, but no one keeled over and died. 
Does that mean we were safe, or that we got away with it? Ray 
turned back at Stella after his vision started to go - later 
examination suggests it was early cerebral edema, with the vision 
problems caused by a burst blood vessel in the eye. His vision 
returned in a day or two, but it was frightening to know that he 
could not descend on his own even after a rest in Barafu.

The descent back to camp went very quickly, aided by guides who 
knew where to charge down sandy chutes and where to cross rock 
ribs. Generally the return route stayed north of the ascent route 
between Stella and Barafu. We relaxed in camp until the last 
people returned (several hours later), then headed down the 
Mweka Trail. From sand to rocks to mud, it was a damn long way 
down to our final camp (waypoint D6CAMP, which may or may 
not be the Mweka Hut at about 10000'). We passed one hut along 
the way, where people offered us water, but continued to the 
lower camp where you can buy beer. It rained within minutes of 
the last person reaching camp, but no one cared.

NOTE: Waypoints&pictures are in the web version of this report:

-- Steve Eckert

Traipsing Around Tucson 2000

In February, Gretchen and I traveled to Tucson, Arizona so that 
she could exhibit her mineral collection at The Tucson Gem and 
Mineral Show, the largest show of its kind in the world. While in 
Tucson, we went on several hikes in the area. In the March 1999 
Scree, I gave a trip report on three hikes I took last year. This 
year I had to do get out and do some hiking. While the Sierra is 
socked in with snow pack, Tucson is enjoying temperatures in the 
upper 70's.

Waltzing up Wasson

Thursday, February 10, 2000

Mt Wasson at 4687 Ft is the highest peak in the Tucson 
Mountains, the range that borders the city to the west. The 
trailhead starts at about 2800 Ft and the distance to the top is 4.6 
miles. We started at 10:27 AM and I summited at 1:02 PM. 
Gretchen summited 10 minutes later. We left the summit 35 
minutes later at 1:37 PM. One interesting feature at both the head 
of the trail and close to the summit was a logbook where we 
signed our names, city, time of entry, time of exit on return, and 
whether we had water. This is a good idea from a safety 
standpoint so that rangers can know where to look if a person is 
missing We took a slower pace so that we would not become 
dehydrated in the desert sun. We wanted to conserve our energy 
and our water. We arrived back at the car at 4:30 PM.

The trail and Wasson Peak is located in the western section of the 
Saguaro National Park. Here you see an exceptional display of 
the giant Saguaro Cacti as you climb the peak. Saguaro cacti can 
grow as tall as fifty feet, live to as old as 150 years, and weigh as 
much as eight tons. Here you can see the cacti in all stages of 
growth ranging from tiny plants a few inches tall to 30-foot giants 
with as many as eight arms. The cacti grow straight up like a 
narrow pole until they reach seventy-five years in age. Then they 
will sprout their characteristic arms, which first appear as tiny 

Although Wasson's 4687-foot summit is nowhere close to the 
elevation of the 12000-14000 footers where we hike in the Sierra, 
it is still a very respectable peak climb offering spectacular views 
of Tucson and the surrounding area. We have to ask ourselves 
why climb a peak in the first place. Do we climb to see what 
elevation we can achieve? Do we do it for exercise? Do we climb 
to see the scenery along the way? Do we climb for the great 
views? For me personally, I climb for all of these reasons. Even 
thought this peak is a relatively low peak, it still offers all aspects 
of class 1 climbing. Also I enjoy seeing different plant life. The 
Sonora Desert is like no other place on earth.

-- Bob Bynum

Tinker Knob - Saturday February 19, 2000

After getting back from Tinker Knob last week, I saw that both a 
ski tour and a snowshoe trip there are planned for March, so we 
probably should have climbed a different peak... Anyway, hope 
this helps people going to that area soon:

We started on the little turnout from 89 south marked O8/Pole 
Creek. A few skiers and snowshoers had been on this road in the 
previous days, but there were still lots of powder and snowshoes 
became necessary almost immediately as the sun came out and 
the temperature climbed.

The road is quite curvy in places (we stayed on O8 - a few other 
roads branch from it) but gets you up to 8000' quite fast. It took 
us about 2 and a half hours to get to the brand new Bradley Hut, 
which is apparently open for free for the public.

We saw many ski turns on Silver Peak and surrounding slopes, 
but no skiers. We went up to the pass in the ridge just to the right 
of peak 8597', which was very heavily corniced, as were many 
parts along the ridge. Besides the possibility of those sliding, the 
avalanche danger seems to be fairly low in this area once a few 
sunny days help consolidate the snow...

We dropped about 500' from the main crest (the slopes are much 
steeper higher up), meeting what must have been the PCT since 
we followed a pretty well-cleared path through the trees to the 
plateau 200' below Tinker Knob. There was a group of about 30 
skiers taking a class from some guiding company, so the summit 
wasn't too quiet that day! Views in all directions were 
nevertheless excellent.

I originally had the overly ambitious plan of traversing to Granite 
Chief, but the powder had made the going slower. The traverse 
seems to involve plenty of elevation loss and gain - many of the 
peaks along the way have very steep summits and shoulders, so 
it's probably easier to follow the PCT route approximately.

Any skiers going there this winter might be interested/amused by 
a HUGE ski jump that was built about 1/4 mile west of the 
summit, at the edge of the summit plateau area. It's hard to 
exaggerate how big it is, and the slope a few feet out increases to 
well over 45 degrees!

No matter how much new snow falls this winter, I'm sure this 
jump will remain visible. If you dig out the middle, you'll have a 
snow cave with room for a small army.

-- Joe Budman

Sherlock Holmes and Dr. Watson were on a camping trip.

They had gone to bed and were lying there looking up 
at the sky. Holmes said,

"Watson, look up. What do you see?

"Well, I see lots of stars."

"And what does that mean to you?"

"Well, I guess it means we will have a nice day 

"What does it mean to you, Holmes?"

"To me, it means someone has stolen our tent."

Private Trips

Private trips may be submitted directly to the Scree Editor, but 
are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra Club. 
They are listed here because they may be of interest.

*** To Tinker, And Beyond!
Peaks:		Mt Judah (8243), Mt Lincoln (8383), Anderson Pk (8683),
		Tinker Knob (8949), Granite Chief (9006)
Rating:	"Class 2" snow, no ice axe or crampons
Date:	Sun, Mar 12
Contact:	Steve Eckert, eckert@climber.org

This is a ski traverse over intermediate terrain, timed to coincide 
with another group's snowshoe trip. We'll start together, and the 
snowshoers will return from Tinker Knob while the skiers complete 
the traverse from Sugar Bowl to Squaw Valley. If we have time for 
Granite Chief at the end of the day, there will be one black 
diamond run and we'll finish on groomed slopes. With GC, it's 
close to 15 miles and 5000' of gain, but there are ways we can 
shorten it (like taking the ski lift to start, and skipping GC.)

*** Roustabouts Roundabout Roundtop
Peak:	Roundtop
Date:	March 19, 2000
Details:	Roundtop, 10,381 feet, snow/winter
Contacts:	Arun Mahajan arun@tollbridgetech.com, 
(w)408-585-2114, (h)after 9 pm: 650-327-8598
	Adrienne Van Gorden, 831-728-2160

The locals of the quaint town of Jackson, Ca, pick daffodils and 
dandelions this day to herald the arrival of spring. Paying no heed 
to this mushy stuff, we gnarly souls from the PCS will attempt to 
climb Roundtop in snowshoes or skis with axes and crampons on 
the ready for the final summit ridge. Meet at 8 am at the Carson 
Pass snowpark on Sunday the 19th of March (remember to get a 
snow park permit else face the hefty fine). Snowshoes or skis for 
the approach and axe and crampons for the summit ridge needed. 
Basic ability to use axe/crampons a must. Get adequate warm and 
windproof winter clothing and footwear. We should be back to the 
cars by 3pm.

*** Waddell Beach to Saratoga Gap/Highway 35
Date:	May 13, 2000
Time:	Before Daylight
Contact:	Joan Marshall (jmarshal@legato.com or eves. 408-972-8222)
 	Claire Marshall (clairem14@excite.com)
	Bonnie Ruesch bruesch@worldnet.att.net
	Bob Suzuki (408-259-0772 rsuzuki@dsptlg.com)
Details:		Rated 6E, 28 miles, approx. 4,500 ft. gain

Hike may take twelve hours, depending on how much partying and 
lollygagging goes on. Many of you have done this hike downhill, 
but how about UPHILL? Some of us crazies would like to try it. 
But, we will need help and lots of planning to make it work. That's 
why the notice is going out SO early! It would be fun to organize 
another group of hikers going down, (those who have to work on 
getting the knees in shape) to meet the Uphill Crazies somewhere 
in the middle for dessert and drinks. Also, looking for kind souls 
willing to volunteer to shuttle these sick, sick, people to Waddell 
Beach at an ungodly hour in the morning, or shuttle them back to 
Waddell Beach in the evening. Leaders are working on some sort 
of reimbursement, but right now the reward is good Karma. All 
participants must sign up, and be experienced day hikers.

*** Spring Split Break
Peaks:	Split Mtn (14,042), Mt Prater (13,471)
Rating:	"Class 3" snow, ice axe & crampons but no rope
Dates:	Sat-Sun, May 13-14
Contact:	Steve Eckert, eckert@climber.org

Get high this spring! People seem to like the 14ers, so I've agreed 
to go back to Red Lake (10500) and bag Split from the east side. 
We should have steep hard snow, not the rubble you'll find here in 
the summer, so you must be comfortable with self arrest and 
crampon techniques. If time allows, we'll get Prater on the way 
back from the saddle between them. If you haven't been to Prater, 
beware the 10' knife edge that pushes the Class 2 rating.

*** Feather Peak
Peak:	Feather Peak (13,242 ft.), Class:4 snow
Date:	May 27-29
Contact:	Kai Wiedman, (650)347-5234

Feather Peak is a striking landmark dominating the Royce Lakes 
basin. As a climbers' peak, known not only for its isolation but for 
its difficulty by any route, it has earned the respect of many a 
Sierra climber. We will attempt the North Couloir featured in the 
book "Sierra Classics."

*** Mt Shasta
Peak:	Mt. Shasta 14,162 ft.,Class: 2/snow
Date:	June 3-4
Contact:	Kai Wiedman (650)347-5234
Co-Contact:	Cecil Anison cecilann@earhlink.net

Mt. Shasta is a climbers' mountain, singular in its magnificence. 
Sargent's Ridge will be an airy, challenging route with steep 
traverses and mixed climbing. Please join us on this exhilarating 

*** Mt. Shasta via Avalanche Gulch
Date:	June 23 - 25, 2000
Details:	Mt. Shasta, 14,161 feet, class 2/snow
Contacts:	Joan Marshall jmarshal@legato.com

Beginners Trip. No Leader.
Backpack. Details to come later. Trip limited to six.

*** San Benito County Peaks
Peaks: Laguna Mountain & others in San Benito County
Date: No set date
Contact: Bill Hauser, 408-243-4566

Bill Hauser is looking for people to climb San Benito County Peaks.

*** Nepal
Peak:	Chulu West, 20,500 ft.
Date:	October, 2000
Contact:	Warren Storkman, 650-493-8959, dstorkman@aol.com

Climb or Trek, We'll combine both for the ultimate adventure. The 
trekking peak is Chulu West, 20,500ft. Its rating classifies it as 
moderate-difficult. Chulu West is on the Annapurna circuit, north 
of the village of Braga. After the climb we pass over the Thorung 
La Pass (17,700 ft) Our walk down to beautiful Muktinath brings 
us to a Hindu religious setting. You'll see many older Indians from 
India who made this arduous jouney. Most of the older people 
consider this visit the fulfillment of their religious life. Before 
reaching Jomson Airport, there will be a side trip to Kagbeni, a 
village that lost its way in time. It's a 19 day trek from Besisahar, 
return from Jomson


Scree is the monthly journal of the Peak Climbing Section 
of the Sierra Club, Loma Prieta Chapter. Visit our website at

Elected Officials

	Rick Booth / pcs-chair@climber.org
	408-354-7291 home
	237 San Mateo Avenue, Los Gatos, CA 95030

Vice Chair and Trip Scheduler:
	Dee Booth / pcs-scheduler@climber.org
	408-354-7291 home
	237 San Mateo Avenue, Los Gatos, CA 95030

Treasurer and Membership Roster (address changes):
	Bill Kirkpatrick / pcs-treasurer@climber.org
	408-293-2447 home
	435 N. Second St. #217, San Jose CA 95112

Publicity Committee Positions

Scree Editor:
	Bob Bynum / pcs-editor@climber.org
	510-659-1413 home
	761 Towhee Court, Fremont CA 94539-7421

PCS World Wide Web Publisher:
	Aaron Schuman / pcs-webmaster@climber.org
	650-943-7532 home
	223 Horizon Avenue, Mountain View, CA 94043-4718

Publicity Chair:
	Steve Eckert / pcs-pub-chair@climber.org
	650-508-0500 home
	1814 Oak Knoll Drive, Belmont, CA 94002-1753

Subscriptions and Email List Info

Hard copy subscriptions are $10. Subscription applications and 
checks payable to "PCS" should be mailed to the Treasurer so they 
arrive before the last Tuesday of the expiration month. If you are 
on one of the PCS email lists (either the sierra-nevada@climber.org
discussion list or the california-news@climber.org read-only list,
you have a free EScree subscription. For online info, send Email to
info@climber.org. EScree subscribers should send a subscription form
to the Treasurer to become voting PCS members at no charge. All 
subscribers are requested to send a donation of $2/year to cover 
operating expenses other than printing the Scree. The Scree is on 
the PCS web site (as both plain text and Adobe Acrobat/PDF) at 

Rock Climbing Classifications

The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing trips for 
which you are qualified. No simple rating system can anticipate all 
possible conditions.
	Class 1: Walking on a trail.
	Class 2: Walking cross-country, using hands for balance.
	Class 3: Requires use of hands for climbing, rope may be used.
	Class 4: Requires rope belays.
	Class 5: Technical rock climbing.

Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 3/26/2000.
Meetings are the second Tuesday of each month.

"Vy can't ve chust climb?" - John Salathe

First Class EMail - Dated Material as soon as it's published!