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This is the EScree - the Electronic version of the Scree newsletter from
the Peak Climbing Section of the Loma Prieta Chapter of the Sierra Club.
It should be viewed or printed with a fixed-pitch font such as Courier.
     This publication may not be posted on any public news group.
                  April, 2000	Vol. 34 No. 4
     Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 4/23/2000 

This issue of Scree will be on the Official PCS Website at

Next general meeting (PCS meetings are the second tuesday of each month)

Date:	Tuesday, April 11
Time:	8:00 PM
Program:	Ice Climbing by Ron Karpel

Ice climbing is one of the least understood extensions 
of mountaineering. Why would someone search for a 
patch of vertical ice?  Come and see, and maybe you 
will get hooked too. See pictures of Ron Karpel and 
Rick Booth ice climbing in Colorado and California.  
We can also talk about some of the techniques and 
the tools of the trade.

Directions:	2344 El Camino Real, Santa 
Clara (between San Thomas and Los Padres).

(PDF version has a drawn map here)

From 101: Exit at San Thomas Expressway, Go 
South to El Camino Real. Turn left and the Western 
Mountaineering will be immediately to your right.

Jules M. Eichorn 1912-2000

After 88 years of enjoying the beauties of the Sierra Nevada 
range and the delights of Bach, Beethoven and Brahms, Jules 
Marquard Eichorn died peacefully at home in his sleep, Tuesday, 
February 15, 2000.  He was born February 7,1912, to Hilmar and 
Frieda Eichorn, both German immigrants.  Though frail and often 
sick in his childhood, he learned to enjoy walking on Mt. 
Tamalpais in Marin County on Sundays with his parents and 
brother, John Peter and sister, Eleanor.  His parents also strongly 
encouraged his clear musical talent;  at an early age he studied 
violin at the San Francisco Community Music School under the 
tutelage of Gertrude Field, his future teaching mentor.  His first 
piano teacher was Ansel Adams, of future photography fame; 
Jules was his first pupil.  Their friendship was to last a lifetime.  
Ansel also introduced Jules to the high Sierra through the 1927 
Annual Outing, ascending Alta Peak, Jules' first mountain climb 
at the age of 15.  To continue to pay for his piano lessons from 
Ansel, Jules washed prints in the Adams's family bathtub.

In 1929, Jules graduated from Lick-Wilmerding High School in 
San Francisco and continued to teach piano at the Community 
School for 50 cents a lesson.  Then his amazing life as a pioneer 
rock climber began, first in the summer of 1930 in the Tetons and 
after much practice climbing in Berkeley, California, the Sierra 
Nevada with its many unclimbed peaks.  In 1931 he made the 
first ascent of the 2400' East Face of Mt. Whitney, then 
Thunderbolt Peak in a frightening lightening storm, then 
numerous ascents in the Minaret range, one later to be named 
Eichorn Minaret.  However, the climb for which he is most 
famous is the 1934 ascent of the Higher Cathedral Spire in 
Yosemite with Dick Leonard and Bestor Robinson.  Here, for the 
first time, rope, pitons, carabiners, and dynamic belays were used 
to ascend this 700' granite needle.  The climb signaled the 
beginning of all future high-angle, big wall climbing in North 
America.  In 1934 he helped locate the body of Walter Starr, Jr. 
(Pete Starr), the writer-pioneer killed climbing alone in the 
Minarets.  For his efforts, Walter Starr Sr. provided Jules with a 
scholarship to U.C, Berkeley.  In the early 1940s he trained the 
National Park Service rangers in Yosemite to rescue injured or 
stranded rock climbers.  After W.W.II, he took groups of teenage 
boys into the High Sierra on mountaineering adventures with the 
greatest mountain man of his time, Norman Clyde.

His music life paralleled his mountain life.  In 1934, he entered 
U.C. Berkeley and in 1938 graduated with a degree and 
credential in music.  For the next 35 years, he taught 
instrumental, orchestral and choral music in the Hillsborough 
Schools District, near San Mateo.  His students remember him as 
a particularly gifted teacher.

Jules married Sarah Beckman in 1937, and they had six children.  
Divorced in 1957, he married Kay Calderhead in 1960; they had 
a child and Kay's daughter by a former marriage joined the 
household.  That marriage dissolved in 1973.  In 1982 he married 
Shirley Lhyne, who with her three children, remained with him 
until his death.

He continued to walk in the Sierra until the 1980s when he 
turned his full attention to environmental conservation.  His 
concern, like those around him, was that wild places should be 
forever preserved for the enjoyment of future generations.  With 
that agenda, he was elected for eight years as a Director of the 
Sierra Club.  He was a tireless worker to create and enlarge new 
and existing parks, both local and national. 

He worked to elect environmentally friendly candidates including 
Tom Lantos, Byron Sher, Arlen Gregorio and Malcolm Dudley.  
At public hearings his presence created an aura of depth and 
purpose.  The conservation community will sorely miss him.

He will be remembered fondly by his wife of 18 years, Shirley 
Lhyne-Eichorn and by eleven children and step children: David 
H. Eichorn, Gertrude W. Dixon, Julia A. Osborn-Gourley, John 
W. Eichorn, Hilmar M Eichorn, Peter M. Eichorn, Linda F. 
Renfro, Cara L. Eichorn-Osos, Robinie Lhyne-Alinejad, Peter L. 
Lhyne, and Anders Erik Lhyne.  Also surviving him are 18 
grandchildren, ten great grandchildren, nephew Tom Manning 
and the children of his brother, John Peter Eichorn.

His gift to the world was his great love of the mountains and 
music and an extraordinary ability to share these with those 
around him.  "Music and the mountains; they're the greatest," he 
liked to say.

On March 18 at 3:00 PM, a memorial music service will be held 
at the Unitarian Universalist Fellowship, 2124 Brewster Ave., 
Redwood City.  A second mountaineering memorial will be held 
May 20 at the Eichorn Memorial Grove in Big Basin State Park 
at noon.  Please call 510-524-9473 for directions.  Contributions 
in his name may be made to the following: Hidden Villa, 26879 
Moody Rd., Los Altos Hills, CA 94022;  Sempervirens Fund, 
Drawer BE, Los Altos, CA 94023; Unitarian Universalist Service 
Committee, 130 Prospect St., Cambridge, MA, 02139.

Wilderness First Aid 

This is a great 20-hour class for those who are looking to 
experience practicing wilderness first aid skills in an outdoor 
setting. In addition to a half day of outdoor scenario practice of 
first aid and leadership skills, this class focuses on practicing 
skills and covers wilderness standard first aid topics: patient 
assessment, shock and bleeding, head and spinal injuries, 
wounds, musculoskeletal injuries, heat and cold illnesses and 
much more. Red Cross Standard First Aid and Adult CPR 
certification are available upon successful completion of this 
course. OU's Wilderness First Aid certification is available upon 
successful completion of the course and passing a take-home 
wilderness exam. There are pre-class reading assignments. (If 
you are current in Adult CPR or Standard First Aid, contact 
Bobbie Foster about your options and costs)

Pre-requisites: None
Classroom Session:	April 11, 6-10pm
Weekend Session:		April 15-16, 8am-5pm
Cost:	$71- Volunteer Outdoor Leaders for nonprofit groups 
$100 - General Public
Sign-up Now - Sign-ups are already in progress. Call 415/476-
5244 for registration information.

Call Bobbie Foster at 415/476-0417 for any questions about the 
class or Outdoors Unlimited's First Aid Program.
Outdoors Unlimited at www.outdoors.ucsf.edu/ou

Evacuation and Search and Rescue Seminar

Sponsored by Outdoors Unlimited and BAMRU

Someone is seriously injured in the backcountry and you need to 
get them to the hospital. This free workshop will help you better 
understand your evacuation options so you can be better prepared 
and can make a good decision on how to get your patient to the 
hospital. The Bay Area Mountain Rescue Unit (BAMRU) will 
facilitate this workshop.

Find out how BAMRU can help you and what they need from the 
rescuers in order to pull off a successful rescue.

Prerequisites: None
Cost: Free
Date and Time: April 20, 7-9pm
Location: UCSF Campus - SF
For More Information and Room Location
Call Bobbie Foster
First Aid Program Coordinator
Outdoors Unlimited
UCSF Campus
415-476-0417 - ext 1.
Future Seminars
First Aid Kits Seminar   May 2   Free

Scenario Play Day   May 13   costs between $10  15

Prerequisites: Taken a wilderness first aid class (from 8hr on up) 
in thelast 4 years.

-- Kelly Mass

PCS Leadership Clinic

The PCS Mountaineering Committee is organizing a leadership 
clinic for Sunday May 7.  The motivation is to help our leaders be 
the best they can be, and to ensure that our trips are well led and 
safe.  All PCS leaders are urged to attend, but it is also open to 
aspiring leaders, and to everyone in the PCS or other sections.

The event is being organized as a combined clinic and day hike 
and will run most of the day.  We will alternate hiking with sit-
down sessions where various topics will be discussed.  Total 
hiking distance will be 8 to 10 miles.  We aim to discuss all 
aspects of trip leadership, from basic planning and organizing to 
safety and dealing with people and emergency situations. We 
especially want to share lessons learned from experience.

For those wanting to do advance reading, the following books are 

 "Mountaineering, Freedom of the Hills" - chapters on leadership, 

"Outdoor Leadership: Technique, Common Sense & Self-
Confidence" by John Graham

The clinic will be at Sunol Regional Park, Sunday May 7 from 
9:00 am to 6:00 pm.  Please call or email for more details on 
where to meet.

Kelly Maas (408) 378-5311, maas@idt.com

PCS Trips

PCS trips must be submitted through the Scheduler (see back 
cover for details). Trips not received from the Scheduler will be 
listed as PRIVATE, without recourse.

*** Mt Diablo
Peak:	Mt. Diablo (3,849')
Date:	April 1, 2000
Leader:		Bob Suzuki       rsuzuki@dspt.com      H: 408-259-0772
Co-leader:	Rex Jennett   datsrex@netzero.net   H: 650-961-1618

Description: Bag this desirable peak and enjoy a 17 mile loop and 
panoramic views in this East Bay park. Wear boots if trails are 
muddy. Heavy rain cancels.

Co-listed with the Day Hiking Section. Carpool Time: 7:00 AM, 
Carpool Location: Cubberly High (Middlefield & Montrose) in Palo 
Alto Time at Trail head: 8:00 AM Trail head location: Macedo 
Ranch at end of Green Valley Road in Danville

*** Rock Climbing Practice
Dates:	Tue. April 4th (evening session), Sat. April 8th 
(practice), Sat. April 15th (backup date)
Leaders:	Ron Karpel, Kelly Maas, Rick Booth
Contact:	Ron Karpel, email: ronny@karpel.org (W)510-771-3231

This is a restricted outing of the Sierra Club.  To participate, you 
must be a Sierra Club Member.  Participants must be experience 
on class 3 terrain and will be required to use a helmet.

Our practice will emphasize safe rock climbing using rock climbing 
gear. The goal is to cover the kind of rock climbing situations one 
might encounter during mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada. We 
will practice climbing rock routes of class-4 and easy class-5 (up 
to about 5.4) levels. Participants will train in general use of ropes, 
tying knots, using harnesses, using protections devices, setting 
anchors, using slings and biners, providing belay to leaders top 
rope belay to followers, tying in to a belay station, using belay 
devices, and practice rappelling. We do not intend to train in 
leading rock climbing.

The theory session will take place in a suitable location in the Bay 
Area (the Peninsula Conservation Center is one option). The 
practice itself will take place in the Pinnacles National Monument.

*** Spinach Noodle
Peaks:	Spanish Needle, class 3, 7841, Sawtooth Peak (S), class 2, 7970
Dates:	Apr 08-09, 2000 (Sat-Sun)
Maps:	Lamont, Nine Mile Canyon
Leader:	Aaron Schuman, H 650-968-9184 W 650-943-7532, aaron_schuman@yahoo.com
Details:	http://sj.znet.com/~cynthiam/needle.html

Way off in the driest corner of the Sierra Nevada there's a 
subrange of mountains that's covered with junipers and 
jackrabbits, and it sports some right purty desert vistas: we're 
aimin to go there.  Join us for the long Saturday hike to Spanish 
Needle, the Sunday hike to Sawtooth Peak, or for both days.  
We'll approach Spanish Needle from 4500  foot Rodecker Flat, not 
from the usual direction, for extra  adventure and as a test of 
stamina.  14 miles, 3300 vertical  feet.  Sunday, we'll sprint up 
Sawtooth Peak, only 6 miles round trip and 2600 feet.

*** Leadership Clinic/Hike
Date:	Sun, May 7
Leader:		Kelly Maas, 408-378-5311, kelly.maas@idt.com

Kelly Mass will lead a leadership training hike. See write-up.

A Dome Too Far - Sentinel Dome - March 3-5

Trip members: Harlan Suits, Roy Lambertson, Chris Kerr, John Langbein, Karen Davis.

Sometimes when you put maps side to side, you see ski 
destinations that you would otherwise miss. Sentinel Dome, for 
example--not the well-known formation near Yosemite Valley but 
the remote overlook of King's Canyon in the southern Sierra.

To reach the Sentinel, we planned to ski north from Lodgepole 
about 15 miles through hilly, forested terrain. On the eve of the 
trip, we knew the going would be hard: storms had dropped lots 
of new snow and our two best trailbreakers had dropped out. 
There was also a "chance of showers" after the first day.

Friday morning we drove up through the drizzly lowland clouds 
into brilliant sunshine and a redwood wonderland draped with 
snow. "Up here 'chance of showers' usually means 10 inches of 
snow," said the ranger at Lodgepole before we embarked. I 
chalked up her warning to Park Service conservatism.

At that time we had already lost an hour due to construction 
delays on the road.

Memo to self: inspect ski equipment before each trip. At the 
trailhead I noticed one of my skis' metal edges was broken with 
two cracks extending up toward the top of the ski. Would the ski 
last the trip? I would have to risk it, and be prepared to remount 
my binding if the ski snapped in two.

Our slow start became slower. We had trouble finding the bridge 
over the river under the deep mantle of snow. At first we chose 
the wrong direction to search--downstream instead of upstream. 
After crossing, we lost the trail on the other side, skinning 
laboriously up through steep, hummocky forest before we found it 
again. Dimly I remembered making both of these route-finding 
errors on my last visit to this area many years ago!

On the trail, snowshoe tracks provided welcome relief from 
trailbreaking. But we found the trailmakers only 1-1/2 miles from 
the trailhead, just stirring from their tent. From this point the trail 
turns north and is difficult to follow when under snow; it is 
unmarked and the trees are often not dense enough to indicate a 
trail corridor. We soon lost the trail and tramped a serpentine 
course through the interlocking tree wells of closely spaced trees.

It was high time for a trail-breaking god to surge forward and 
push the pace, I thought. Our party included several trail-
breaking heroes of yesteryear, but we seemed to have lost our 
spark. Age, injury, raising families-many excuses came to mind 
but were best left unsaid.

The one aid to navigating by compass was that the route went due 
north or at times magnetic north. We stumbled on a trail corridor 
and made better time. But soon the warm, sunny weather created 
a devious side effect: melting snow soaked our ski bottoms and 
climbing skins, and the powder underneath stuck to our skis like 
glue. Meanwhile, big snow bombs melted off the trees, leaving 
craters beneath. We skied on slowly but unscathed.

Near Cahoon Pass we glimpsed cloud-filled valleys to the south 
through the trees and Kettle Peak to the north. We were on route. 
After plodding through woods all day, our reward was a lovely 
ridgetop campsite just south of JO Pass, with a cloud carpet 
below and a beautiful sunset brewing above. We had skied 7 
miles in about 7 hours.

The evening was uneventful until John sniffed in the direction of 
our tent and exclaimed, "something's burning!" In fact, my tent 
group conducted two combustion experiments that evening. First, 
I determined that supergaitors do indeed burn when they drape 
against the stove burner--but without flame. Later, Roy 
discovered that foil food pouches, rather than insulate the stove 
from the snow, burn with a hot, tenacious flame, even when 
tossed out onto the snow.

After a windy night our layover day dawned fair. From camp, the 
ski to sentinel Dome appeared to be more than 8 miles each way. 
Success seemed unlikely with the current snow conditions 
(breakable crust overlaying powder), but we headed out to see 
what we could see--and ski what we could ski. We cruised along 
at first, then the crust melted and we had sticky snow again. We 
skirted Kettle Peak, descending a steep 500-foot slope of heavy 
powder from its western shoulder. A sea of clouds still covered 
the Central Valley to the west. To the east, the snowy giants of 
the Great Western Divide came into view. To the north, Mitchell 
Peak (10,000 ft+) was the tallest thing in sight--a worthy goal for 
the day's outing.

Our slow progress put even this objective in doubt, however. At 
2:00 we were at the base, with an 800-foot climb remaining. Roy 
and I were tired, but summit fever befuddled our higher brain 
functions. We plodded upward, knowing we would not return to 
camp until after dark. The others turned back.

The slog was worth it. At 3:00 we approached the summit and a 
grand snowy panorama spread in all directions, spanning two-
thirds of the horizon: to the north the wall of King's Canyon, 
including Spanish Mountain and the Monarch Divide; to the east 
the Great Western Divide; to the southeast, Mt. Silliman and 
environs. The forested ridge to Sentinel Dome undulated further 
north, descending gradually toward the great chasm. It looked 
like a long haul, and it was hard to imagine that it provided a 
better view.

The descent was challenging. Breakable crust that had softened 
somewhat during the day was refreezing. Then the long, zombie 
plod home. Night fell as we ascended Kettle's west ridge. We 
arrived back at the tents at 7:45, the deep ski tracks a foolproof 
aid to navigation. Our tentmate, Chris, had food waiting for us, 
bless her heart.

The next morning, dry snow slithered off our nylon tent fly. It was 
snowing. We had been planning to ski Kettle Peak--so 
tantalizingly close--before we skied out. Now there was no point, 
and my sore muscles celebrated the respite. Still, we had to ski 
out several miles of difficult terrain in the storm--hopefully 
before the snow filled in our tracks.

We packed up and headed down. The powder was now about 6 
inches deep. Better than nothing, but not deep enough to negate 
the breakable crust underneath. All of us took falls on the steeper, 
heavily forested slopes, but we made steady progress. The wind 
and temperature of the storm were not excessive, and we were 
able to follow our tracks the whole way, saving time otherwise 
spent stopping, consulting map and compass, and scratching one's 

As during our approach, snow bombs fell from the trees, but 
these were powder bombs that created mini-whiteouts. Damp, we 
reached the cars at 1:45. The snow level extended down to 4000 
feet, creating a wonderland of white-etched scrub pine and 
chapparal on the drive down to the Kaweah River. The ranger 
was right: "chance of showers"in Sequoiah does mean about 10 
inches of new snow.

-- Harlan Suits

Picacho del Diablo

The mountain is Picacho del Diablo, also known as Big Picacho 
or Big P. It is a twin summit at 3095m (N) and 3094m (S). 
Elevation gain is 2505m (8218'), 10 map miles. But the elevation 
gained and the mileage walked should be increased by at least 
20% due to all the devious routing around the obstacles.

After a lot of dithering and reading Sierra club reports at 
http://www.angeles.sierraclub.org/dps/archives and getting good 
advice from Rudolfo from the high-altitude list, I decided that 
this climb sounded like a fun trip to get away from the usual 
Colorado winter trips. Most of the trip reports were from the 
southern California climbers using a route from the West with 
access from Observatory Road. But I liked the easier drive from 
the East (from Colorado) and I knew I could have a relaxing place 
and a safe place to store my vehicle near San Felipe at a camp 
called Pete's.    I noticed the tall mountains while on vacation in 
March 1999. I set out alone in my truck to head south on March 
6, 2000 . While at a layover in the Phoenix area I studied the 
weather and decided to abort again. But by March 15 the jet 
stream had shifted north. The snow line was 3500' on the coastal 
range near the border. The trip was back on.

I found the trailhead easily between Diablito and Diablo Canyon 
and found the well-marked trail. This TH start is in the desert at 
590m. I identified Suhrago, Palo Verde and several varieties of 
cacti, but no Cholla (a good sign for this desert rookie). This 
desert vegetation is about 20 feet high indicating to me that there 
is plenty of water nearby.    Over my March11 through March16 
climb I saw the foliage change from the above desert setting to 
willows along the stream to scrub oak then juniper and beautiful 
cedar trees then a new variety of pine I have not seen before. 
Then up high there was more scrub oak and manzanita. In places 
the cover was very dense and it made passage with my big pack 
very testy.    I saw cow tracks and deer tracks between the first 
two waterfalls so I guess they come down the really steep hillside 
for water. In places there had been much rainfall so the hiker path 
was difficult to follow but one person had walked up the as far as 
Campo Noche and back. To the pass the time I tracked him to 
make the route finding easier. There were lizards and frogs 
everywhere, scampering and leaping into the pools. Most lizards 
were 6" long and skinny as a pencil. But several were king size. 
The frogs were all the same color as the rocks whether light gray 
or rust color.  Lots of small birds chirping. It was an interesting 
diversion.    At my high camp (2280m) a Ringtail Cat who 
thought I was very interesting examined me. It was a very pretty 
animal. And at the TH after my climb I was awakened by a bunch 
of Coyotes probably fighting over early morning food.

In preparing for the climb I had obtained the correct topos and 
Jerry Schad's map/guide instructions from the Map Center in San 
Diego mailed to my home in Colorado. The Mexican topos were 
difficult but Mr. Schad has really got it together.  The first day 
started at Pete's Camp about 10:30AM. We arrived at the 
trailhead at 12:30. The walk to the entrance waterfall took 1/2 
hour on a well-flagged trail then up the stream bed. The entrance 
waterfall is unclimbable (660m), 15-foot deep pool and a 5 to 10 
foot waterfall. The rock is an aid climb.  The previous climbers 
have placed a ladder and 2 steel cables and a ladder to get the 
climb started. You pendulum from the first cable to the ladder, up 
the ladder down the other side into the creek bottom with the 
other cable. OK without a pack but impossible with a 6 day pack. 
I hauled the pack (not recommended). The correct way is to use a 
prusik to hold you and the pack so you can get purchase with the 
feet then walk to the ladder. On the return is even harder because 
you have to run uphill from the ladder to a boulder, it took two 
tries on the return and I really went hard the second time.

The second waterfall is harder. Schad says go left up a 20-foot 
crack then up 10+ foot sketchy slab. It cannot be done with a 
pack (for a normal hiker). I went up the right side until the 
sketchy nubbins disappeared then frictioned up the rock. Then 
hauled the pack (difficult). On the return I could not down climb 
this route - too scary. 20 feet with no place to use my 60' rope. It 
needs a rap bolt really bad. So I downclimbed the Schad route 
without a pack. The moves were 5.2 or 3 with 20 feet of air. Not 
good for a solo climber. No place of a rap anchor here either, 
anyway my rope was hopelessly tangled in my pack down on the 
creekbed. Everything goes wrong when you are trying to be ultra 
careful. I was really concerned more than any time before.

Here is how I did the down climb without benefit of seeing it or 
studying it from below. It is a wide crack starting down about 10' 
on an OK slab with a narrow sloping ledge leading to the crack. I 
could see two chock stones and several 3/8" edges for my feet. I 
put one foot on the top stone and grabbed it with one hand and 
did the classical lieback and moved that foot to the crack and let 
it slide down to the next stone. All the time scratching for a foot 
hold on the face of the rock with my free foot. Then repeat for the 
second chock stone, foot and hand on the same stone lieback and 
lower. One foot found a small bump and held. The other foot fit 
the crack, I extended my arms and jumped the last 4 feet to a flat 
surface. Sounds OK for a 5.7 lead climber the biggest problem 
was the lower chock stone "WIGGLED", boy that gets your 

I didn't get very far the first day, HA. After the second water fall 
there is an uphill bypass through a dense briar patch. Really 
tough going with my big pack. Then 15 to 30 minutes later is 
another boulder problem I could not do with the pack but I 
ducked a Class 3 difficulty bypass, but it has over 20 feet of air 
(maybe it a Class IV). It is safe due to the very grippy places for 
your feet, careful balance is required as there is no place for your 

The rest of the approach just follows ducks but significant route 
changes were always marked with a least at 2' high cairn. (Note a 
duck is a one stone cairn?). Hikers place a round a 2" to 10" stone 
on a big rock and you walk either where the duck is or beside the 
big rock where the duck is. Its hard to make the classical cairn 
with round streambed cobbles. I was surprised to find several 
crawl throughs along the way. Very interesting.

At 1450m there is another big waterfall (15") with a friction slab. 
I climbed up a short gully and stepped up onto the ledge system 
above the slab and just walked across. 50' of vertical down the 
slab to the pool of water if I screwed up. It was Class 2 difficulty 
and I was not concerned. My way looked better than the smooth 

After the water flow disappeared (1850m) it returned and I was 
at Campo Noche (1900m). This place is identified by 2-3' high 
cairns. Turn left (E) and find several large camp sites. I found the 
duck and proceeded up Night Wash. The going was brushy and 
the shady spots were full of snow. My method was to avoid the 
snow but keep the ducks in sight. It worked OK but was difficult. 
At the crossover to Slot Wash I left my pack and explored for a 
campsite. Slot Wash was full of snow where one might pitch a 
tent. So I made my high camp on the ridge at 2280m. It was a 
short day (I stopped at 2PM) but I knew I could summit from 
there and it would be easier with less weight in the pack. 

The next morning I set off and the snow got really bad. I took my 
axe but decided that the crampons were unnecessary (correct, as 
they would never be necessary under any situation for this 
mountain). Taking an axe on rock climbs is common for me. I use 
it for aid when things get touchy. I bypassed a long section of the 
wash on slabs on the left (N) side and the progress was excellent. 
No marginal slabs were noted. I never saw the S summit gully but 
found a big cairn on a large tree stump. I assumed it was the left 
turn to Wall Street but not so, a right turn and some slabs are 
next with a sketchy ledge and a tree-hug move. All this was easy 
compared to the lower canyon problems.

I summited at 11:30AM on Tuesday March 14 and was back to 
my camp at 2PM. The register is full and in the past year 30 
parties and well over 100 persons have summited. They were 
mostly from Ensenada, but a few others were noted from 
Southern California, Arizona and Colorado. My Peru climbing 
partner, Jim Rickard summited in June '99. When his report 
becomes available I will post a URL. He was as impressed as I 
was. I think only Jim and I summited from the East.

The views were great to the lake bed to the East. There are 
several farms identified by large green squares on the East side of 
the Diablo Lake. The air was still full of the sea haze to the West 
and beyond the dry lake bed to the East. The observatory is a 
prominent feature when looking NW across the huge Canyon del 

The trip down from the summit left me with some scrapes but I 
managed to avoid any falls even small ones. I had to make tracks 
to meet my ride on Friday AM. I made the TH at 4PM Thursday 
afternoon so all was well. My son picked my up about 10AM and 
I headed for the showers and some good food at Pete's. 

My evaluation of the climb: What a blast, walk for 5 minutes 
boulder hopping in the creek bed, then do a class 3 boulder 
problem. Day1 was 3 hours of marginal climbing, day 2 had 9 
hours, day 3 had 7 hours, days 4 & 5 had 8 hours. A leisurely 
pace is required due to the intense route finding. Two persons 
would go much faster as the ducks would bed located much 

Next time:  I will take a bolt kit and place at least two rappel 
bolts. The entrance fall ladder is getting much usage from the 
locals and the rungs are showing serious weakness and splitting. I 
would rather see an aid route placed so one could go from runner 
to runner and just avoid the ladder all together. The obstacle goes 
up vertical for about 15 feet then lays over all the time traversing 
to the right.

If you do this climb here is my recommended gear:

At least a 60'X7mm climbing rope, 2-1.5'X6mm prusiks, 2-
4'X6mm prusiks, 4 caribiners, 1 locking caribiner, webbing to 
make a diaper sling, An axe for winter months, Jerry Schad's map 
"Parque Nacional San Pedro Martir". It had route descriptions 
and an accurate topo. And last of all an altimeter which is easily 
resettable to the landmarks on the Schad map.


To the TH:  Buy liability insurance for $56 per week, no visa 

Drive S on Mex 5 from Calixico/Mexicali to first Pete's Camp El 
Paraiso for about 2 hours (120 miles or so). Then S past the 
Crocodile sign on your right. Turn right on the paved road called 
Saltito Rd or more commonly "Zoo Rd" At Morelia Junction keep 
right. Again keep right at the earthen dike. 

Don't get stuck in the sand there are several parallel roads. 
Choose a well traveled one. After the cattle guard you are on the 
lake bed. Follow tracks the don't sink in the mud. Stop on the 
high ground in case the army wants to inspect you. Try not to stop 
on the flat where it is soft. (GO fast). This route is a gun/drug 
contraband route so be courteous to the army guys.

Pass two signs on the right for roads leading E to Providencia 
Ranch. Pass an unreadable sign on the right. Turn left toward the 
mountain at the buried tire. Drive the path to and through the 
trees and though the ranch and keep right. I think this may be 
Vallecitos' shack I was told about. (May be he will watch your 
vehicle.) If you go straight, you will be at the mouth of Diablito 
Canyon and an army camp. Following the right fork leads to a 
large parking area and the beginning of the trail. Elevation 590m 
N31deg 04.456, W115deg 21.90. You can plot this on Mexican 
topo#HIIB45. The adjacent map shows a place called Santa Clara 
but I cannot verify that it is the ranch above? All the canyon 
labels on the these topos are incorrect. The Schad map shows a 
shack at the mouth of Diablito Canyon. It does not exist unless it 
is the ranch above.

Do NOT leave a vehicle at the trailhead on Saturday & Sunday as 
there is much traffic from locals on the weekend days. There are 
to many people who could cause mischief. Find a driver to drop 
you off and collect you later.

Buy Schad's map and the topos from Map Center 888 849 6277 
or 619 291 3830.

-- Paul Wilson 

First Backpack of the Year - March 18, 2000

91 F at my house so I packed only a jacket and pants. Arrived at 
Crystal Lake in the San Gabriel mtns at about 5PM. There were 
the usual campers blaring music so I packed out immediately. 77 
at 6500 feet. The sun set behind the ridge and the temp dropped 
to 58.Hiked up to about 7200 feet where there were 3foot snow 
drifts. Gaters would have been useful, a walking stick also. A 
cool catabatic wind blew all night so I started afire. Everything 
was so wet, I barely got it going. It got down to 40 and I didn't 
even bring a hat. As usual, I didn't bring a tent. I just put pads on 
the ground with a sleeping bag. For the first time in years, I 
wasn't warm enough, so I got up at 4AM and rekindled the fire. 
There was a full moon so there was plenty of light. The 
moonlight and shadows on the snow is always very pretty. The 
light from the moon and the city were so bright, I kept thinking it 
was dawn. My footprints were the only ones on Big Cienega trail, 
so I had the whole mountain to myself. Good training for my next 
trips to Yosemite on April 15-24 and May7 to Sept 2.

My sacrifice to the camping god was my hand plastic trowel that I 
had owned for my entire backpacking life of 25 years.

It melted after I left it too close to the fire.

-- Ed Lulofs

Roundtop Roundtrip - March 19, 2000

A note on the privately organized trip to Roundtop (10381 ft).

Clear skies and the imposing form of Roundtop in the skyline 
spurred on the ten of us in the morning of Sunday the 19thof 
March. We made good time on our snowshoes (George was the 
only one on skis) to Lake Winnemucca, after having started at 
8.45 am from the top of Carson Pass. At the snow-covered lake, 
we headed right and then towards the ridgeline towards the 
saddle between Roundtop and it's adjoining peak. Here the angle 
got progressively steeper and we switched to crampons and made 
our way towards the first summit. A couple of people decided that 
the angle was a little too much for them and they prudently 
decided to wait for us. The rest of us summitted at about 
11.30am. While some preferred the first summit, some others did 
the extra ridge walk towards the true summit. Getting over the 
small rock band that is just below the high angled true summit 
with cramponed boots added some spice to the climb. The views 
were spectacular all around but the cold wind made us retract our 
steps and very soon we all were back to the point where we had 
left our snowshoes. The sun continued to shine and the walk out 
was very pleasant and we were all back to the cars at 2.45pm, a 
six hour day in all.

The snow was crusty and getting a little hard, but snowshoes or 
skis were still needed or you will punch through. Ski conditions 
were not the best but George still made the most of it all.

The mountain climbers that did the trip were, Adrienne Van 
Gorden (co-leader), George Van Gorden, Rick Booth, Dee Booth, 
Scott Kreider, Ron Karpel, David McCraken, Huy Nuygen, Dana 
Le and leader and scrivener, Arun Mahajan.

-- Arun Mahajan

Silver Canyon Point

Lori and I had often noticed the bump on the long ridge to the 
right (south) of Silver Canyon while out running along the canals 
north of town.  We had been told that this had been a favorite of 
Smoke Blanchard's.

Yesterday, Joe Kelsey, Toby, Lori and I bagged it.  We parked just 
barely into the entrance of Silver Canyon, which is east of Laws 
and otherwise northeast of Bishop by three miles.  An old 4wd 
track led up the ridge about half way.  The ridge would alternate 
with rises and flat sections.

Atop the first rise was a television, which had apparently been 
sacrificed according to the edict "Kill your Television".  Spent 
shell casings suggest that this may have been a more violent 
event than a stoning alone.

Two hours later we gained the summit, all easy class 1 through 
low sage and with good footing on the shaly ground.  There was a 
four-foot cairn, but no register so we left a modest one.   We 
lounged enjoying the view out over Bishop and the maze of 
surrounding canals and then walked backdown.

Round trip stats: 4 miles, 2300 feet, 3.5 hours.

-- Eric and Lori

Private Trips

Private trips may be submitted directly to the Scree Editor, but 
are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra Club. 
They are listed here because they may be of interest to PCS 

*** Adams Without Family
Peaks:	Mt Adams, WA (12,276', roped snow climb)
Dates:	April 29-30
Contact:	Steve Eckert 

Before the tourist hoard arrives, but hopefully after the big loose 
winter snows, we should have relative calm and isolation on the 
third highest (and far eastern) Cascades volcano. We'll try to 
minimize avalanche risk by staying on the ridge, and we'll avoid 
rockfall and mudslides with a solid snowcap. Adams is not a 
beginner climb at this time of year! Send recent experience 
including roped snow climbs.

*** Lassen, not Again?
Peaks:		Mount Lassen (10,457), Brokeoff Mountain(9235), class-2 snow
Dates:	Sat-Sun, May 6-7
Maps:	Lassen Peak
Contact:	Ron Karpel, ronny@karpel.org, George Van Gorden, Ron Karpel

It is that time of year again when we hear the call "Go north peak 
bagger."  So again, we pack our gear and drive up to Lassen NP, 
and again, we will climb to the top of Lassen and Brokeoff.  We 
schedule Lassen for Saturday and Brokeoff on Sunday.  Both are 
long snow hike/climb.  Participants require to be experienced with 
ice axe and crampons.  Snowshoe or skis welcome.

*** Waddell Beach to Saratoga Gap/Hwy 35 
Date:	May 13, 2000
Time:	Before Daylight
Contact:	Joan Marshall jmarshal@legato.com or eves.408-972-8222
	Claire Marshall (clairem14@excite.com)
	Bonnie Ruesch  bruesch@worldnet.att.net
	Bob Suzuki 408-259-0772, rsuzuki@dsptlg.com
Details:	Rated 6E, 28 miles, approx. 4,500 ft.ele. gain

Hike may take 12 hours, depending on how much lollygagging 
goes on. Many of you have done this hike downhill, but how about 
UPHILL? Some of us  crazies would like to try it. But, we will need 
help and lots of planning  to make it work. That's why the notice is 
going out SO early! It would be fun to organize another group of 
hikers going down, (those who  have to work on getting the knees 
in shape) to meet the Uphill Crazies  somewhere in the middle for 
dessert and drinks. Also, looking for kind souls willing to volunteer 
to shuttle these sick,  sick, people to Waddell Beach at an ungodly 
hour in the morning, or shuttle  them back to Waddell Beach in the 
evening. Leaders are working on some sort  of reimbursement, 
but right now the reward is good Karma. All participants must sign 
up, and be experienced day hikers.

*** Spring Split Break
Peaks:	Split Mtn (14,042), Mt Prater (13,471)
Rating:	"Class 3" snow, ice axe & crampons, no rope
Dates:	Sat-Sun, May 13-14
Contact:	Steve Eckert, eckert@climber.org

Get high this spring! People like the 14ers, so I'm returning to Red 
Lake (10500) and bag Split from the east side. We should have 
steep hard snow, not the rubble you'll find here in the summer, so 
you must be comfortable with self arrest and crampon techniques. 
If time allows, we'll get Prater on the way back from the saddle 
between them. If you haven't been to Prater, beware the 10' knife 
edge that pushes the Class 2 rating.

*** Feather Peak
Peak:	Feather Peak (13,242 ft.), Class:4 snow
Date:	May 27-29
Contact:	Kai Wiedman, (650)347-5234

Feather Peak is a striking landmark dominating the Royce Lakes 
basin.  As a climbers' peak, known not only for its isolation but for 
itsdifficulty by any route, it has earned the respect of many a 
Sierraclimber. We will attempt the North Couloir featured in the 
book "Sierra Classics."

*** Mt Shasta
Peak:	Mt. Shasta   14,162 ft.,Class: 2/snow
Date:	June 3-4
Contact:	Kai Wiedman (650)347-5234
Co-Contact: Cecil Anison   cecilann@earhlink.net

Mt. Shasta is a climbers' mountain, singular in its magnificence. 
Sargent's Ridge will be an airy, challenging route with steep 
traverses and mixed climbing.  Please join us on this exhillarating 

*** TBD in the Rockies
Peaks:	TBD
Dates:	June 22-28 (a full week)
Contact:	Steve Eckert 

Paul Wilson, of the Colorado Mountain Club, has agreed to host a 
select few California climbers at his house in the Rockies. This is 
my first trip there, so I'm open to suggestions. Hopefully this trip 
will lead to other trips (both in the Sierra Nevada and the Rockies) 
with people from both areas. Since this is a long distance trip, 
plans should be made as soon as possible.

*** Mt. Shasta via Avalanche Gulch
Date:	June 23 - 25, 2000
Details:	Mt. Shasta, 14,161 feet, class 2/snow
Contacts:	Joan Marshall jmarshal@legato.com
Beginners Trip. No Leader. Backpack. Details  later. Limit of  six.

*** Climb-O-Rama 2000
Peaks:		Mt Bago, Mt Bradley, Caltech Pk, Center Pk, 
  Deerhorn Mtn, Mt Ericsson, Gregorys Monument, 
  Mt Gould, Junction Pk, Mt Keith, The Minster, Mt 
  Rixford, Mt Stanford, University Pk, East Vidette, 
  West Vidette (class 2&3, plus XC backpacking)
Dates:	July 29 - Aug 6 (a full week)
Contact:	Bob Suzuki 
	Steve Eckert 

Join us for our annual peak bagging orgy - including some of the 
peaks above, but probably not ALL of them! We'll base camp in 3 
or 4 places, and various sub-groups will split off to bag the peaks 
they want before re-joining the main group. You MUST be 
competent to navigate and climb on your own, since we're not 
going to keep the group together at all times. Limited space 
available. Send recent climbing experience and the list of peaks 
you want, we'll pick the group by mid-April (may not be first-come-
first-served, $10 deposit refunded on the climb).
For more peak details (location, height, etc) see 

*** San Benito County Peaks
Peaks: Laguna Mountain & others in San Benito County 
Date: No set date
Contact: Bill Hauser, 408-243-4566

*** Nepal
Peak:	Chulu West, 20,500 ft. 
Date:	October, 2000
Contact:	Warren Storkman, 650-493-8959, dstorkman@aol.com

Climb or Trek, We'll combine both for the ultimate adventure.
The trekking peak is Chulu West, 20,500ft. Its is rated as 
moderate-difficult. Chulu West is on the Annapurna circuit, north 
of the village of Braga. After the climb we pass over the Thorung 
La Pass (17,700 ft) Our walk down to beautiful Muktinath brings 
us to a Hindu religious setting. You'll see many older Indians from 
India who made this arduous jouney. Most of the older people 
consider this visit the fullfillment of their religious life. When 
reaching Kali Gandaki river,  there will be a side trip to Kagbeni, a 
village that lost its way in time. Trek  starts from Besisahar, return 
to Beni road head then fly from Pokhara to KTM. 

*** Argentina -  January 2001
Peaks:	A Seven Summit Mountain, Aconcaqua  6959 m
Contact: 	Warren Storkman, 650-493-895


Scree is the monthly journal of the Peak Climbing Section 
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Rock Climbing Classifications

The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing trips for 
which you are qualified. No simple rating system can anticipate all 
possible conditions.
	Class 1: Walking on a trail.
	Class 2: Walking cross-country, using hands for balance.
	Class 3: Requires use of hands for climbing, rope may be used.
	Class 4: Requires rope belays.
	Class 5: Technical rock climbing.

Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 4/23/2000. 
Meetings are the second Tuesday of each month.

"Vy can't ve chust climb?" - John Salathe	

First Class EMail - Dated Material as soon as it's published!