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Scree for April, 1999

This is the EScree - the Electronic version of the Scree newsletter from
the Peak Climbing Section of the Loma Prieta Chapter of the Sierra Club.
It should be viewed or printed with a fixed-pitch font such as Courier.
     This publication may not be posted on any public news group.
                  April, 1999	Vol. 33 No. 4
     Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 4/25/99

This issue of Scree will be on the Official PCS Website at

Next general meeting (PCS meetings are the second tuesday of each month)

Date:	Tuesday, April 13
Time:	7:00 PM
Program:	Mission Peak Climb

Location:	Stanford Avenue, Fremont
(PDF version has a drawn map here)

Rather than see slides of peaks at PCS 
meetings, lets go climb one instead! 

Directions: Take 880 to Mission Blvd 
exit. Go under 680, about 1.5 miles, to 
the 3rd light. Just beyond Paseo Padre 
(the 3rd light), turn right on Stanford 
Avenue at the sign that says "Mission 
Peak Regional Preserve".

The NEW Climber.Org Roster

This year we are introducing the Climber.Org roster, 
which will be on the web but not in the Scree. All 
climbers (PCS members or not) can send a picture 
with your recognizable face and your name PLUS 
whatever contact information you want (email, web, 
phone, snail mail), the area and types of peaks you like 
to climb, etc. (preferably via email) to:

   Aaron Schuman / roster@climber.org
   223 Horizon Avenue, Mountain View, CA 94043

We'll have a gallery of faces & names, exclusively 
from info sent to roster@climber.org, with links that 
point to the contact information you supplied. Don't 
send it if you don't want it on the web! The PCS roster 
will be pointed to by a separate link, but ya gotta send 
yer mug and stuff if ya wanna be in pictures. (Ever 
have one of those trips where you know the first name 
but not the last name? Trying to identify who that was 
to your left in the hero shot? The loudmouth? This is 
the place to look!) More details later!

1999 PCS Roster Update

The 1999 PCS Roster will be published in the May 
Scree and on the PCS website, with only the 
information PCS members wish to release. You are not 
automatically in the PCS Roster unless you are 
receiving the hardcopy Scree - email and web readers 
MUST contact the PCS Treasurer (Dee Booth) to 
become PCS members (it's FREE):

   Dee Booth / pcs-treasurer@climber.org
   237 San Mateo Ave, Los Gatos, CA 95030

Whether or not you are on the email broadcast, you 
can list your email in the roster. Please provide all 
information in the form below so that we can update 
old information and maintain the best possible roster. 
For the safety of our members, your street address will 
not be printed when the roster is published in the 
Scree/EScree, and you can choose whether to release 
your telephone number(s) at the bottom of the form. 
You must contact the Treasurer if you wish to have 
your email info listed (just subscribing to the email list 
is not enough). Remember we publish the roster so 
that other PCS  members can reach you when 
coordinating trips, or to return gear that you left in 
their cars, so the more information the better!

Name:    ____________________________________________________

Address: ____________________________________________________



Home Phone (with area code):  _______________________________

Work Phone (or enter "none"): _______________________________

Email: ______________________________________________________

Sierra Club Membership Number: ______________________________

Include phone number when publishing the roster? Y/N_________

Official (PCS) Trips

PCS trips must be submitted through the Scheduler (see back 
cover for details). Trips not received from the Scheduler will 
be listed as PRIVATE, without recourse.

Mt Diablo by the North Side
Peak:	Eagle Peak(2359), North Peak(3557), Mt. Diablo(3849) Class-
Maps:	Clayton USGS 7.5'
Date:	April 11 (Sun)
Leaders	 Arun Mahajan. arun@tollbridgetech.com
	(h) 650-327-8598, (w) 408-585-2114, 
Co-leader:	Ahmad Zandi. ahmad@zandi.com
	408-255-4233 home, 408-616-5783 work. 

Dayhike this beautiful east bay peak and two of it's surrogate 
summits, Eagle Peak and North Peak by the North Side. Carpool 
from Cubberley School parking lot at the junction of Middlefield 
Road and Montrose in Palo Alto at 7am. The hike is a little less 
than 15 miles round trip and has  4000+ feet of gain. Cross-listed 
with the Day Hiking Section.

Black Diamond
Peaks:	Diamond Pk (13,126) and Black Mtn (13,289)
Dates:	April 16-18 (Fri-Sun)
Map:	Kearsarge Peak 7.5' topo
Leader:	Steve Eckert
Co-Leader:	Aaron Schuman / 650-968-9184 / aaron_schuman@yahoo.com
NOTE: Co-leader will take applications and maintain the trip roster.

Spring fever? Ditch those downhill skis and strap on snowshoes 
or backcountry skis for a fine bowl between two high peaks. Black 
is closed much of the year to protect bighorn sheep, so you will 
find few names in the register (if we can dig it out!).

Hopefully we can drive to 6000' for this spring ascent, then bag 
both peaks on the second day. If not, we'll spend part of the 
second day moving packs and do one peak each on the second 
and third days. Ice axe and crampons required - submit resume of 
recent experience and a $10 deposit (refundable less any permit 
fees at the trailhead) with your Sierra Club membership number 
(this is a restricted mountaineering trip) to secure a spot.

San Gorgonio
Peak:	San Gorgonio (11,000)  San Bernadino County
Dates:	May 2
Contact:	George Van Gorden  408 779 2320

We'll meet at the Forest Falls trailhead early on Sunday morning 
and return in the late afternoon, probably between 5 and 6 PM, 
just in time for the last flight out of lala land although you'll hardly 
know you were there.  The hike is 14 miles round trip and over 
5000 feet.  The country is spectacular, high desert to Sierra forest 
to wind-blown high plateau.

Williamson and Tyndall
Peaks:	Mt. Williamson (14,375) class-2, Mt. Tyndall (14,018) class-2
Dates:	June 11-13 (Fri-Mon)
Map:	Mt. Williamson 7.5' topo
Leader:	Kelly Maas kelly.maas@idt.com 408-	279-2054
Coleader:	Ron Karpel ronny@luxsonor.com 650-	594-0211

Mt. Williamson is the second highest peak in California, we will 
climb it from Shepherd Pass via the standard Bolton Brown Route. 
Mt. Tyndall is right there near Shepherd Pass which is as good a 
reason as any to climb it. This is an MOC approved trip.  
Participant must be current sierra club members, must be 
experienced with snow climbing and the safe use of ice axe and 
crampons, including self arrest.  Participants must be in top 
physical condition. Friday, we will pack in from the trailhead at 
Symmes Creek to the top of Shepherd Pass (11-mile, 7,000') and 
setup camp.  Saturday we will climb Williamson and return to the 
camp.  Sunday we will climb Tyndall and pack out to the trailhead. 
Because of the early date, we expect to run into last winter's snow 

Rolls Merriam
Peaks:	Royce (13280), Merriam (13103), class 2/snow
Dates:	June 19-20 (Sat-Sun)
Maps:	Mt Abbot 15' topo
	Mt Hilgard 7.5' topo, Mount Tom 7.5' topo
Leader:	Steve Eckert, eckert@climber.org

By June much of the approach should be on trail, but the saddle 
between these two peaks is steep and there is a permanent 

We'll take crampons and ice axes for the summit but hope for dry 
camping at Pine Creek Pass. About a 4000' / 7 mile pack in, and 
about a 3000' / 6 mile summit hike means we'll be able to pack out 
the second day... but it will be strenuous. Views of Bear Creek 
Spire, Seven Gables, and Humphreys will reward our efforts. 
Submit resume of recent experience and a $10 deposit 
(refundable less any permit fees at the trailhead) with your Sierra 
Club membership number (this is a restricted mountaineering trip) 
to secure a spot.

Trip is limited to 6 people because there is no co-leader.

Mt Goethe
Peaks:	Goethe (13264), Emerson (13204) class 1-3
Dates:	June 19-20      Sat-Sun
Maps:	Goddard 15 min. 
Leader: 	Aaron Schuman  aaron_schuman@yahoo.com
	H 650-968-9184, W 650-943-7532
Details: 	http://sj.znet.com/~cynthiam/goethe.html

Saturday, pack from North Lake (9200) to our campsite at  Muriel 
Lake (11423).  Climb Mount Goethe for the view into  Evolution 
Valley.  Sunday, as we hike out, we'll drop our packs near Piute 
Lake for a side trip to Mount Emerson.  This trip will be strenuous 
but only of moderate technical difficulty.  .

Motherland of the Crows
Peaks:	Big, Black & Red Kaweah, Triple Divide, etc;
	class 2 to class 3
Dates:	July 17-25, Sat-Sun
Maps:	Mineral King, Triple Divide & Whitney 15 min.
Leaders:	Charles Schafer cgschafer@lucent.com
	H 408-354-1545, W 408-324-6003
	Aaron Schuman  aaron_schuman@yahoo.com
	H 650-968-9184, W 650-943-7532
Details:	http://sj.znet.com/~cynthiam/crows.html

Famed for its isolation, feted for its jagged crags, feared for its 
loose rubble, the Kaweah Peaks Ridge stands apart as one of the 
least known climbing areas  in the Sierra Nevada.  Join us for a 
challenging,  arduous week in the land named by the Yokut 
Indians  as "The Motherland of the Crows".  ($10 sign-up fee, 
refundable at trailhead, less cost of permit).

Pilot Knockout

Coming over Walker Pass, it stands steeply over the Kern Valley, 
a monolith, easily recognized from a distance, a guiding 

Its 6200 foot low elevation summit and its southern arid setting  
make it a unique climbing experience among Sierra Nevada 

It is Pilot Knob.

On February 28, 1999, we went to see how it looked up there.  
The party consisted of Arun Mahajan, Dee Booth, Pat Ibbetson, 
John Zazzara and yours truly, Aaron Schuman.  

There is no public access to the area.  Earlier groups have 
climbed  it, with permission, from the property of Ben Rudnick, 
on Doyle Ranch  Road.  But based on Don Peterson's earlier 
scouting, we decided to  enter from the White Blanket Ranch 
(2700').  This choice saved us three miles of boulder hopping in 
each direction.  

To get to our starting point, we found Call Box 178-659 on 
highway 178, a couple of miles east of the village of Onyx.  
Opposite the call box, a gate is closed by not locked.  About a 
half mile in on the driveway, there are two trailers in disrepair.  
This is the White Blanket Ranch, home to Josephine, Frank and 
their daughter.

They are friendly and gave us permission to cross their land.    
Josephine didn't ask for money, but we gave her five bucks 
because we wanted to make sure that hikers would continue to be 
welcome there  in the future.  If you follow our directions, please 
remember to also follow our example and tip the ranchers.  
Josephine asked that we write her in advance, at PO Box 376, 
Onyx CA.  

I've heard rumors that the USFS is planning to create public 
access to the south end of the Domelands Wilderness via the 
Bloomfield  Ranch, but they expect to need a couple of years to 
implement it.  

We walked across Josephine's bridge over the Kern River, crossed 
a low ridge, and entered the canyon that descends steeply from 
the peak. We hiked westward up the canyon all the way to where 
it arises near  the summit.  It is a brushy drainage, filled with 
yuccas, greasewood, sage and prickly pear.  Many tumbled 
boulders and polished slabs blocked our way, incongruous 
remnants of a long-gone fluvial age. There certainly isn't any 
surface water there now.  

At the summit ridge we scrambled for a couple hundred feet over  
class 2 rocks to the top, concluding with a squeeze up "Skinny  
Hiker's Chute."  We rested on the acme, gazed out over the abyss, 
and admired the view of the Domelands all the way to the crest 
and the snowy summit of Olancha Peak.  

Our ascent took four hours, and our descent took three, making 
altogether a moderate Sunday, and a pleasant encounter with a  
different side of the Sierra Nevada.  

-- Aaron Schuman

Black Mountain - March 1999

Another candidate for the WIMP ( Winter, Inyo, Mono, Peak ) 
List, and yes, yet another Black Mountain.  This is the peak due 
east of the Owens Valley Radio Observatory, at the southern end 
of the White Mountains. I was joined by Toy, Joe Kelsey, and 
Paul Horton, a friend of Joes visiting from Wyoming.  Paul, as it 
turns out, has secretly climbed Moapa, Castle Dome, Bridge Mtn, 
and just did Telescope.  We turned off the Westgard Pass road 
toward White Mountain.  0.4 miles past the kiosk, currently 
unmanned, we turned left on an unmarked dirt road.  After 0.7 
miles there was a bad patch and we parked.  Part of the idea was 
to get exercise.  We followed the road south and then more west.  
A fork to the right we decided was in the wrong direction.  After 
a few miles, the road appeared to be descending to the west, so 
we took off straight toward the peak.  After a quarter mile, we 
were back on the road, which had apparently made a big 
descending switchback.  The road wound up and around, finally 
revealing its true purpose at a mine in the south flank of our 
peak.  From the mine we contoured up and right to the broad east 
ridge, mostly snowy.  The summit was marked by a 4 x 4 in a 
cairn; we found no register, but did leave one.  It had been 
flurrying all day, and now began to snow more seriously.  We did 
a direct descent back to a saddle a little west of the mine to avoid 
snow.  Steep, loose, reminded me of the San Gabriels. Round trip 
stats: 9 miles, 1700 feet, 4 hrs 20 min.

As it turned out, the only bad spot in the road was right where we 
parked, and it was only 50 yards long.  All the rest looked like 
easy 2wd with snow patches.  The earth is soft in that area and it 
looked like it would only take about 20 minutes with a shovel to 
make the bad patch easy.  If one drove all the way to the mine, 
0.5 miles, 500 feet.

There should be a great view across the valley of the Sierra, 
although we cannot say.

-- Eric and Lori Beck

Roundtop Rondo - March 21, 1999

It is getting to be quite a ritual for some of us in the PCS to 
celebrate the two major events of the world around this time of 
the year by doing a climb of Roundtop Mountain (10381 ft).The 
first event being the arrival of the spring with it's attendant good 
weather. The second being the Dandelion Weekend that is 
celebrated with much fanfare almost nowhere else in the world 
except in the bustling town of Jackson, California.

We gathered at the Carson Pass sno-park in the chilly morning of 
Sunday, the 21st of March, cursing the weather service for having 
floated the vile rumor that it would be a sunny day, when all we 
could see in the sky were the clouds.

Clad in multiple layers of clothing, some on skis and some on 
snowshoes, we set out through the forest, following the ski tracks 
over undulating terrain. It was a strong group and we made good 
time getting to the ridge above Lake Winnemucca. The wicked 
wind that came our way, kicking up the snow and lashing our 
faces with it, also blew the clouds over the summit making it 
nearly invisible.

As we came to the final saddle, by now wearing crampons, the 
weather seemed to have worsened and we debated the possibility 
of turning around. While we were so debating, there came a lull 
in the wind and we decided to make the most of it and made a 
push for the summit that seemed to be only a couple of hundred 
feet higher. Now the top snow layer was calf deep and then as we 
reached the final section there was a thin layer of ice over the 
rocks. The chink of the crampon spikes going through the thin ice 
and hitting the rock made us dearly wish that we had rental 
crampons instead!

Regardless, we all summitted and headed down quickly without 
spending any time at the summit as once again the clouds had 
started doing their swirling bit. After a short break at the point 
where we had left our snowshoes, we headed out to the cars and 
were back at 2:30 pm. Yet another successful PCS climb of 
Roundtop, this time in just a little over five hours in foul weather.

The peak climbers who participated in this trip were: George Van 
Gorden (leader), Peter Maxwell, Brian Wachter, 
Greg+Gina+Marie Hanson, Dee Booth, Ahmad Zandi, Ted 
Raczek, Alex Keith, Mike McDermitt, Larry Cetti and some 
fellow they found hanging out at the parking who volunteered to 
write the trip report, Arun Mahajan.

-- Arun Mahajan

Peter Maxwell Adds:

Two things you didn't mention:

1.  Some of our thoughts drifted to the South Col on Everest, as 
we were huddled on the saddle waiting for the weather to lift.

2.  The skiers left the snowshoers in the (snow) dust on the return.

Training For Snow Climbing

Let me share a "wake-up" experience that I had while self 
arresting on skis with a pack.

On Shasta I was dropping down from the ridge into the bowl that 
was the old ski lift area. I had a 40+ pound pack on my back. I 
caught an edge in the wet corn show, and started sliding down the 
hill feet first, on my left side. I tried to self arrest several times 
with my right ski pole by holding the spiked end in my left hand 
and the handle end in my right hand, and digging into the snow 
by my left hip. The spike would hold in the snow, and I would 
swing around so that my pack was facing down hill (because that 
pack was my heaviest part). Once the pack was facing downhill, 
my pack would pull me downhill, which released the weight I 
had on the spike on my uphill side, and it would pull loose, and I 
would start sliding downhill again.

After repeating this 3 or so times and losing the plant each time 
my pack swung downhill, I decided to just try something else. I 
reached my right hand over my body to the left side, and dug the 
handle of the ski pole into the snow just above my left hip. This 
held, and I stopped sliding.

It was okay that I slid like this on the slope where I was; it wasn't 
too steep to be dangerous and there was a safe runout. But if I 
were in more dangerous terrain, I could have been in serious 
trouble. Anyway, the lessons I learned from this are:

1. Self-arresting with a pack is very different from arresting 
without a pack. I had always practiced without a pack.

2. Getting into a stable position with your weight _over_ the 
plant point is important.

3. Arresting with ski-poles and skis on is a very different 
experience from arresting with ice axe and no skis; if you are on 
your side/back, the skis limit your ability to fully turn over into 
the classic self arrest position on your stomach. Arresting by 
reaching your downhill hand over to the uphill side helps get your 
upper body (if not your legs) into that stable position. 

-- Tom Morrow 

Permits And Quotas And Bears (Oh, My!)

I've just finished a major update of the RangerContacts.txt file. It 
contains mailing addresses, phone numbers, web addresses, 
permit season and cost and pickup information, basically 
everything I know about contacting the gatekeepers for access to 
the backcountry. If you didn't know already, as of May some area 
codes are changing. I researched it a bit, and I hope I've got them 
all right. Please help make this a useful resource for everyone - 
send me corrections and additions. The file is on the web at


I also added several pages of text to the food storage locker page, 
based on some rare text obtained from a ranger last fall. Better 
than the short one-line notes you see on several websites, this file 
has paragraphs describing how to find some of the boxes. Some 
also have GPS coordinates. Send me anything you have that will 
help nail down where these bear boxes are (maps, text, GPS 
waypoints) so we can avoid attacks like the one in Center Basin 
last year:


In the ranger contacts file you will find corrections to the permit 
sheets recently published by the CMC (the california one) and the 
SPS in their newsletters. I incorporated some information from 
those valuable sources, but in cross-checking I found errors.

In the bear boxes file you will find boxes not listed on any 
website or ranger station list I've seen. That's why I'm so 
interested in field reports from people who walk by one... the 
rangers seem to have forgotten where they are.

-- Steve Eckert 

Blind Spring Hill

Another addition to the WIMP ( Winter, Inyo, Mono, Peak ) List.  
Yes, I Know, technically it is now spring.  This is the peak SW of 
Benton. From Benton we ( Lori, Toy, and Joe Kelsey ) drove west 
on 120 to Benton Hot Springs.  We drove south on Yellowjacket 
road for 1.1 miles, initially paved, then excellent dirt to a poor 
dirt road leading east toward our peak. We drove 100 yards and 
parked.  The road meandered across the flat and immediately 
deteriorated into undriveability.  It contoured, climbing, toward 
the SE, across the west slope of our mountain.  There are two 
amazing retaining walls, one 18 feet high along this section.

The road turned east into a basin surrounded by round hills with 
old mines and tailings everywhere.  Toward the SE looked the 
highest and after a bit we were on the summit.  The Inyo NF map 
shows a cluster of five named summits in this area.  The view of 
the White Mountains is terrific.

Round trip stats:  5 miles, 1500 feet, 2hrs 30 min

-- Eric and Lori Beck

Unofficial Trips

Private trips may be submitted directly to the Scree Editor, 
but are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra 
Club. They are listed here because they may be of interest to 
PCS members.

Southern Sierra Day Hikes
Peaks: 	Spanish Needle,  7,851 ft
	Sawtooth Peak,   8,000 ft
	Rockhouse Peak,  8,383 ft
 Dates: 	April 2-4
 Contacts: 	Bob Suzuki  (408) 259-0772 (H)
	(510) 657-7555 (W)
	 Rich Leiker (510) 792-4816 (H) 
	(408) 453-4253 (W)  after 4pm

Shake off that winter rust for an early season trip into the southern 
Sierra.  We'll be climbing each peak as a day hike and car 
camping at night.

Breaking in Lassen
Peaks:	Mt. Lassen (10457) snow, Brokeoff Mt (9235) snow
Dates:	Apr 3-4 (Sat-Sun)
Map:	Lassen Peak, Reading Peak 7.5' topo
Leaders:	Ron Karpel, ronny@luxsonor.com(H) 650-594-0211
	Nancy Fitzsimmons Pkclimber@aol.com(H)408-957-9681

Also known as Lawson's Peak, Mount Joseph, Mount Saint Jose, 
Snow Mountain, and quite a few other names,  Mt Lassen is an 
easy summer hike, but in the winter it makes a challenging goal.  
Saturday, we will ski or snowshoe the 14 mile 3,500' round trip 
from Sulphur Works to the top of Lassen Peak.  Sunday, we will 
ski or snowshoe the closer, lower, but challenging Borkeoff 

This is not a beginner's trip. Ice axe and crampons as well as 
experience in using them are require.

Yosemite Valley Peak Climb
Peak:	Grizzly Peak, Sierra Point, Mt. Broderick, 
	Liberty Cap, and Eagle Peak. 
Date:	April 24-25
Contact:	George Sinclair 650-941-2160; geosinc@aol.com

Spend the weekend climbing some "peaks" about Yosemite Valley, 
including Grizzly Peak, Sierra Point, Mt. Broderick, Liberty Cap, 
and Eagle Peak.  Some climbs will involve class 4 climbing.

Mount Shasta
Peak:	Mt Shasta class-2 (14,161ft. - 4,317 meters), snow
Maps:	Mount Shasta USGS 7.5'
Dates:	May 1-2 (Sat-Sun)
Leaders:	Ron Karpel  (H)650-594-0211
	Nancy Fitzsimmons  	(H)408-957-9681

Early May on Mount Shasta promises superb snow conditions. 
From Bunny Flat to the summit is about 6 mile and 7000' elevation 
gain.  This is a 2 day trip with camping on the snow on Saturday 
night.  Saturday, we will ski or snowshoe the Avalanche Gulch or 
the Green Butte route depending on conditions.  Sunday we will 
summit and return to the trailhead.  Crampons and ice axe 
required for the summit.

Optional, bring a rope and climbing harness and join us practice 
glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques in preparation for 
Rainier. If you like extreme skiing, from the top of Shasta suppose 
to be a hell of a run, and early may should be a good time.

Bear Mountain
Peak:	Bear Mountain (2640 ft) Class 1
Date:	May 8 (Saturday)
Contacts:	Richard Vassar richard.vassar@lmco.com 
	650-354-5113 (W) or 650-949-4485 (H) and 
	Bob Suzuki 	bobszk@bigfoot.com 
	510-657-7555 (W) or 408-259-0772 (H).

Mississippi Lake from Henry Coe Park HQ Sat  6E. Stretch your 
legs and enjoythe beautiful backcountry of Henry Coe State Park.  
We'll hike to China Hole, through the Narrows and along Willow 
Ridge Trail to Mississippi Lake. After lunch at Mississippi Lake the 
return trip should provide beautiful views out over the undeveloped 
Orestimba Wilderness.  Expect about 26 miles with 4500 ft. of 
elevation gain.  Bring plenty of water or a means of water 
purification.  Carpool 6:30 AM Cottle Rd. and 280 Park & Ride or 
meet at Henry Coe Park HQ at 7:30 AM.  Hike is co-listed with the 
Day Hiking Section, where it is an official, approved hike.

The Doodad
Peak:	The Doodad (11600'+) Class 4
Dates:	May 15-16
Contact:	Jim Curl  415-585-1380

Scanning along the skyline of the Sawtooth Ridge, one can't help 
but feel affected by the alpine character of the area.  The dark 
rock, precipitous and beautifully serrated, pocketed with glaciers, 
along with a blanket of snow in the foreground, makes this one of 
the most attractive regions of the Sierra.  But just west of 
Matterhorn Peak, sandwiched between the Dragtooth and the 
Three Teeth, one's eye is caught by a rather odd protuberance, an 
ungainly wart of stone sticking up embarrassingly from the ridge 
top -- it's The Doodad.

Climbing it is not a popular goal.  Attaining its summit will not 
garner any fame.  More likely, admitting that you've climbed it will 
cause your friends to smirk.  But its unique qualities, even if 
scorned, are precisely what makes climbing it so attractive.

Mt Tinemaha
Peak:	Mt Tinemaha (12,561) Class 2 / snow
Dates:	May 15-16 (Sat-Sun) (weather may delay by a week)
Map:	Big Pine 15' topo
Contact:	Steve Eckert  

Tired of every trip requiring lots of experience? Want to get out in 
the spring snow, but don't have a long resume? This is the trip 
you've been waiting for! We'll pack from about 6500 to about 10500',
a pretty long day, starting on trail and probably finishing on snow.

It's not steep and I don't expect ice axes will be required. The peak 
itself probably WILL require an ice axe, but won't be hard climbing 
(Secor rates it Class 1 in the summer).

Only 2000' of gain on summit day leaves us some time to review 
ice axe and snow travel techniques, but THIS IS NOT A CLASS. 
I'll be happy to share what I know and to discuss what you know, 
and I'll even watch if you want to practice, but you should have 
taken a class or read Freedom of the Hills or had some experience 
with the axe before you come.

Sign up at your own risk. See required waiver at: 

If you've never climbed with me before you should check out 

Escalante Canyons
Dates:	May 21-30
Contact:	Marj Ottenberg & Bob Wallace, 408-867-4576

See why Escalante River is worthy of Monument status! Car-
camping off Hwy 12 on Hogback Ridge, between Escalante and 
Boulder; day-hikes exploring slot canyons and slick rock between 
road and river, with a waterfall, arches, natural bridges, maybe 
petroglyphs. Central commissary breakfasts & dinners, you bring 
lunches. Marj plans, purchase, packs food; all help cook. Cost: 
$75 up front (we pay, too); surplus after food and planning costs 
goes to Southern Utah Wilderness Alliance (or returned, if you're 
hard-up). We've been sending $200-300/year. Meet at Petrified 
Forest State Park near Escalante (showers, trails, swimming) on 
Sat., May 21. Well trained dogs OK. We bring ours. If interested, 
give a call. We've led 12 trips in Utah's redrock country. Limit 12. 
Call by April 26 to reserve space. 

Beginner Snow Climbing
Peak:  Tahoe area, peaks TBD
Date:  May 15-16 (Sat-Sun)
Contacts:  Kelly Maas (H) (408) 279-2054, maas@idt.com
	Charles Schafer (W) (408) 324-6003 cgschafer@lucent.com

This snow climbing trip is targeted at beginners who want to get 
more comfortable on snow, and learn and practice ice axe use, 
including self arrest.  If conditions permit, we will also practice 
with crampons.  No ice axe or crampon experience is required.  
We will be car camping somewhere in the Tahoe area, with 
exact peaks still to be determined.

Near the Dome Lands
Peaks:	N. Maggie (10,235'), Moses (9,331'), Taylor 
	(8,774'), Sirretta (9,977'), and Rockhouse (8,383')
Maps:	Mineral King, Kernville, and Lamont Peak topos, Class: 2-3
Dates:	May 22-24 (Sat-Sun with Mon option)
Contact:	Bob Suzuki, day: 510-657-7555 After: 8pm: 
	408-259-0772, bobszk@bigfoot.com
	Rich Leiker, Before 2pm: 510-792-4816,
	After: 3pm: 408-453-4253

This will be a repeat of Steve Eckert's Oct '97 trip, "Moses' 
Rockhouse," to climb 5 peaks in Sequoia NF. Saturday will be the 
strenuous day, 11+ miles with 6,500' gain and bushwacking, as 
we try for N Maggieand Moses Mtns. Sunday will be easier with 
separate climbs of Taylor and Sirretta. For those interested there 
will also be a Monday attempt on Rockhouse Pk.

Crevasse Rescue Practice
Location:	Rancho San Antonio Park, Hwy 280
Date:	May 23 (Sun), 2pm
Contacts:	Kelly Maas (H) (408) 279-2054 maas@idt.com

You can read all you want about crevasse rescue but there's 
nothing like practicing it.  Join me for an afternoon of practice 
without venturing far from home, but first I strongly advise 
reading "Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue" by Andy Selters, 
or at least the appropriate chapter in "Freedom of the Hills".  
Meet at the bathrooms at the lower parking lot to the right at 
2pm.  Bring your crevasse rescue paraphernalia (harness, 
prussiks or ascenders, slings, biners, pulleys, etc.), book, 
windbreaker, and come ready for a few hours of fun.  Realism is 
encouraged.  Note: if you're making prussiks for the first time, 
cut the pieces very long to allow for adjustment.  Also, at least 
one other person  will need to bring a rope and an ice axe.

Mt. Stanford & Mt. Morgan
Peaks:	Mt. Stanford (N) and Mt. Morgan (N)   (Class 3, Snow)
Dates:	May 29 thru 31, Sat thru Mon 
Maps:	Mt. Abbot and Convict Lake 7.5'
Contacts:	Charles Schafer (408) 324-6003 (w) 
	Steve Eckert, (650) 508-0500, eckert@climber.org

Come join us for an interesting traverse of Mts. Morgan and Stanford.

Saturday we will hike in to our base camp at Davis Lake, on the 
eastern side of Mt. Stanford.  Sunday we will climb Mt. Stanford, 
traverse across to Mt. Morgan, then descend back to our camp.  
Monday we hike out. That is, unless conditions dictate that we do 
it differently, in which case we will do it differently (a lot depends 
on the state of the snowpack).

You must be proficient with ice axe and crampons, since we are 
expecting there to be plenty of snow.  You will probably need 
snowshoes or skis, and snow shovels and avalanche transceivers 
may be de rigueur, again depending upon the snowpack.  This 
should be a fairly strenuous trip; just how strenuous will, again, 
depend on the conditions.

Peak:	Shasta (14,162)
Dates:	May 29-31
Contact:	George Van Gorden, 408 779 2320

We will climb Shasta from the north side via the Bolam Glacier.  
We will be roped and experience in glacier travel is required.  Two 
nights camping at about 9500 feet.

Broad Peak Expedition!
Peak:	Broad Peak 26,400 ft
Dates:	June-July 1999
Contact:	Tom Masterson
	phone, fax (303) 499-6363
	address: 250 31st Street, Boulder, Colorado U.S.A. 80303

We are a Boulder based group seeking to add 3-4 more members 
to our June-July 1999 expedition to attempt the standard route on 
Broad Peak.

This is a non-commercial, non-guided, non-profit expedition! Price-
wise, it is a great deal: Land costs should be about $3800, plus 
airfare of 1200-1500. We want to put together a Colorado-based 
team, so that we can climb together this winter & spring, get to 
know each other and get used to climbing with each other. 
Experience climbing over 20,000 ft very helpful. For more 
information call Tom Masterson at 303 499-6363 or Mike Marsh at 
303 499 3395. 

Taboose: Climb-O-Rama '99
Peaks:	Wynne, Pinchot, Pyramid, Striped, Goodale, 
	Cardinal, Ruskin, Pinchot, Marion, State, 
	Prater, Observation
Dates:	July 3-11 (Sat-Sun, July 4th week)
Leaders:	Steve Eckert, eckert@climber.org
	Bob Suzuki, bobszk@BIGFOOT.COM

We're planning another Climb-O-Rama for peakbaggers who just 
can't live with only one peak per day. This year's trip features 
fewer campsites  (we hope to spend two nights in the same place 
several times) and more  seldom visited peaks (probably including 
some first ascents of the year) and  you get at least one peak 
every day, but the first one.

Editor's Note: This trip is full. However, a waiting list is being kept 
so send in your name anyway.

Lucky Sevens: Mt. Ritter Annual Pilgrimage
Peaks:	Mt. Ritter (13,150'), Banner Peak (12,900')
Dates:	July 26-31, 1999
Contact:	Alan Ritter
	(314) 225-7600, x5362
	(7:30 a.m. 5:30 p.m.CST
Reference:	http://www.climber.org/pcs/Feature/Ritter1998/

Not being one to give up easily, I will make a lucky seventh 
attempt at my namesake peak this summer.  Trailhead date is 
Monday, 26 July, at Agnew Meadows.  We will hike in via the 
Shadow Creek trail and camp near/above Ediza Lake (9,200').  
From there, the climb will follow the same route as last year (sans 
route-finding error!), via the Southeast Glacier and on to the 
summit of Ritter.  Summit day will involve about 3,500' of gain, 
almost all class 2, perhaps a little low class 3 snow, depending on 
conditions.  Ice axe and crampons will be required.  Time, 
weather, and energy permitting, we will attempt neighboring 
Banner Peak (12,900') one of the following days.  Plan to return to 
Mammoth on Friday, 30 July or Saturday, 31 July.

Yosemite: Petit, Piute, Volunteer
Peaks:	Petit, Piute, Volunteer Class 2
Dates:	Sep 4-6 (Sat-Mon) Labor Day weekend
Contact:	Steve Eckert 

A one-way walk through northeastern Yosemite should provide 
some of the best early fall scenery available. Hopefully the 
mosquitoes will be dead or dying, and hopefully it won't have 
snowed yet. The plan is to enter at Saddlebag, exit at Twin Lakes 
(requires car shuttle). There is a bit of cross-country travel at the 
beginning and some 2nd class near the peaks, but basically it's a 
lot of trail walking (15 miles/day) with an average of about 4000' of 
gain per day. To avoid a dawn-to-dusk sort of trip we'll need to 
move fairly quickly, but skipping one or two of the peaks or adding 
a fourth day could provide an easier trip if desired.

Clarence King & Gardiner
Peaks:	Clarence King and Gardiner.
Dates:	Sept 3-6
Contact:	Rick Booth at 408-354-7291 or 
	Dee Booth, rdbooth@worldnet.att.net

Pack in from Onion Valley over Kearsarge Pass and Glenn Pass 
into Rae lakes and eventually into Sixty Lakes Basin.  Estimated 
distance is 10 miles. This is kind of a chug.

Clarence King has a fifth class summit block requiring a few 
moves of about 5.4.  Gardiner has a longish fourth class summit 

Requirements: Both peaks require rope and modest rock climbing 
skills. You should know me or my wife or know someone who 
knows us.  This is a private trip.

Nepal  October 1999
Peak:	Chulu West
Date:	October 1999
Contact:	Warren Storkman
	4180 Mackay Drive
	Palo Alto, CA 94306
	Phone 650-493-8959
	FAX      650-493-8975

Climb or Trek, We'll combine both for the ultimate adventure.

The trekking peak is Chulu West  21,750 ft. (6630 m). Its rating 
classifies it  as moderate -difficult.  Chulu West is on the 
Annapurna circuit, north of the village of Braga. After the climb we 
pass over the Thorung La Pass (17,700 ft)

Our walk down to beautiful Muktinath brings us to a Hindu 
religious setting.  You'll see many older Indians from India who 
made this arduous journey.  Most of the older people consider this  
visit the fulfillment of their religious life.

Before reaching Jomson Airport There will be a side trip to 
Kagbeni, A village that lost its way in time. 

The Coming Millennium Celebration
Peak:	Kilimanjaro 19,340  Uhuru Peak.  
Date:	Jan 12, 2000
Contact:	Warren Storkman
	4180 Mackay Drive
	Palo Alto, CA 94306
	Phone 650-493-8959
	FAX      650-493-8975

Visit Africa for a walk-up of one of the seven continental summits. 
We'll leave San  Francisco January 12th 2000 arriving in Arusha, 
Tanzania. This special package of 4 hotel nights plus 6 nights on 
the mountain is around $1000 1998 prices.  The prices should 
hold for 2000.

The standard package is for 2 hotel and 4 hut nights.

Why longer for us?  Jet lag and acclimatization . We are looking 
for better than the average success rate.  20% not good enough.  

K.L.M. Air looks attractive.  '98/'99  price $1240.00

San Francisco to Kilimanjaro Airport.  

We have 26 persons with a strong commitment.  Lets make it a 
century for the millennium.


Scree is the monthly journal of the Peak Climbing Section 
of the Sierra Club, Loma Prieta Chapter. Visit our website at

Elected Officials

	George Van Gorden / pcs-chair@climber.org
	408-779-2320 home
	830 Alkire Ave, Morgan Hill, CA  95037

Vice Chair and Trip Scheduler:
	Ron Karpel / pcs-scheduler@climber.org
	650 594-0211 home
	903 Avon Street, Belmont, CA 94002

Treasurer and Membership Roster (address changes):
	Dee Booth / pcs-treasurer@climber.org
	408-354-7291 home
	237 San Mateo Avenue, Los Gatos, CA 95030

Publicity Committee Positions

Scree Editor:
	Bob Bynum / pcs-editor@climber.org
	510-659-1413 home
	761 Towhee Court, Fremont CA 94539-7421

PCS World Wide Web Publisher:
	Aaron Schuman / pcs-webmaster@climber.org
	650-943-7532 home
	223 Horizon Avenue, Mountain View, CA 94043-4718

Publicity Chair:
	Steve Eckert / pcs-listmaster@climber.org
	650-508-0500 home
	1814 Oak Knoll Drive, Belmont, CA 94002-1753

Subscriptions and Email List Info

Hard copy subscriptions are $10. Subscription applications and 
checks payable to "PCS" should be mailed to the Treasurer so they 
arrive before the last Tuesday of the expiration month. If you are 
on one of the PCS email lists (either the sierra-nevada@climber.org
discussion list or the california-news@climber.org read-only list,
you have a free EScree subscription. For online info, send Email to
info@climber.org. EScree subscribers should send a subscription form
to the Treasurer to become voting PCS members at no charge. All 
subscribers are requested to send a donation of $2/year to cover 
operating expenses other than printing the Scree. The Scree is on 
the PCS web site (as both plain text and Adobe Acrobat/PDF at 

Rock Climbing Classifications

The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing trips 
for which you are qualified. No simple rating system can anticipate 
all possible conditions.
	Class 1: Walking on a trail.
	Class 2: Walking cross-country, using hands for balance.
	Class 3: Requires use of hands for climbing, rope may be used.
	Class 4: Requires rope belays.
	Class 5: Technical rock climbing.

Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 4/25/99.
Meetings are the second Tuesday of each month.

"Vy can't ve chust climb?" - John Salathe

First Class EMail - Dated Material as soon as it's published!