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Scree for May, 1998

Peak Climbing Section, Loma Prieta Chapter,

Sierra Club Vol.32, No. 5

Next General Meeting

Date:   Tuesday, May 12, 1998

Time:   8:00 PM

Program: Denali by Bruce Bousefield

Bruce Bousefield climbed Alaska's Mt. Denali in June of 1997. This
should be interesting even for those of you who have climbed Denali.
Location: Western Mountaineering Town & Country Village, San Jose
>From 280: Exit at Winchester Boulevard, go East and turn right into the
Town & Country Shopping Center across form the Century Theaters
>From 880: Exit at Stevens Creek Boulevard, go North and turn right into
the Town & Country

Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 5/31/98. Meetings
are the second Tuesday of each month.
New Operating Rule Proposals: Your Voice Counts, Vote For One

At the April PCS meeting, the Chair of the Mountaineering Committee
(Arun Mahajan, also the current PCS Vice Chair) and Steve Eckert made a
brief presentation concerning the operating rules. Two proposals were
presented. We voted to publish BOTH Operating Rule proposals in the next
Scree. Arun and Steve differ on which charter should be adopted, but
they  agree that a vote is needed settle it once and for all.

To help you make an informed decision about the new operating rules we
are providing you with the following materials.

* PCS bylaws governing the mountaineering committee
* History of the Operating Rules
* The two Proposals numbered 9801 and 9802

Please read them and comment either on the e-mail broadcast list or at
the next meeting. Since Steve is  the one who made the proposal, Steve
would like the debate to be along the lines of "this wording would be
better than that wording", not along the lines of "we do not need a
rule" or "who cares". If you have more than a few words or a sentence to
change, please pick the next number (We used 9801 and 9802) and propose
a new operating rule entirely. These things should be short, not page
after page of text.

The PCS Bylaws say operating rules must first be approved for
publication at a meeting (last meeting, April 14, 1998). Once approved,
they must be published in the next Scree, then discussed and voted on at
the next meeting. We may want to delay voting if people have not made up
their minds by May, but with this list we can at least get the issue out
of committee and onto the floor for debate
PCS Mountaineering Committee
As per ARTICLE VI (Committees), Section 1 of the PCS Bylaws, one of the
standing committees of the PCS is the Mountaineering Committee, which
maintains a list of peaks and lists of member and leader qualifications,
conducts training seminars, and assists the Vice-Chairman in scheduling
The following is the Mountaineering Committee Policy.

Mountaineering Committee Policy
Sierra Club Peak Climbing Section, April 25, 1998
1) The mountaineering Committee, a standing committee established by the
by-laws of the PCS, is given complete authority to determine leadership
guidelines (See Appendix A.) and a Leader List based on these
2) The Mountaineering Committee shall be comprised of three members,
each of which is qualified on the Leader List and is an active leader
and climber.  The Chair of the Committee shall be appointed by the
Section Chair.  The other two members shall be appointed by the
Mountaineering Chair with the approval of the Section Chair. It is
recommended that the Vice-Chair/Scheduler be a member of the committee.
3) All members who desire to be placed or upgraded on the Leader List
shall submit a written application to the Mountaineering Committee
Chair. The Mountaineering Committee shall review the application and
determine eligibility for the Leader List.
4) The Leader List will be reviewed annually in the first calendar
quarter by the Mountaineering Committee.  The Mountaineering Committee
will review qualifications of each leader and verify current
eligibility, including valid Sierra Club membership and current first
aid card.  A significant number of serious complaints is cause for
removal from the Leader List.  Leaders can also request that they be
removed from the Leader List when they feel they are no longer qualified
or interested.
5) The responsibilities of trip leaders and participants are summarized
in Appendix B.  The leader of a trip will be the final authority as to
who may participate on the trip.  A suggested list of questions to be
used for screening purposes is given in Appendix C.

The following are the guidelines for PCS leadership that the
Mountaineering Committee uses COUPLED with the PCS bylaws to select
leaders for PCS outings.

Guidelines for PCS Leadership
Class One: (walking on trail)

1) At least eighteen years of age, PCS and Sierra Club member
2) Red Cross Multimedia First Aid or approved equivalent.  Mountain
Medicine course conducted by Red Cross and Sierra Club may be
substituted at alternate renewal periods.

Class Two: (walking cross-country; using hands for balance)

1)  Qualifications for First Class list
2)  Minimum two years mountain experience
3)  Demonstrated navigational ability
4)  Demonstrated sound judgment, mountaineering competence, and
leadership ability on two Class 2 or harder PCS trips or equivalent

Class Three: (use of hands for balance while climbing)

1)  Qualifications for Second Class list
2)  Recent experience with roped climbing, including belaying,
rappelling, knot tying, and/or anchor setting
3)  Recent experience with ice axe, crampons, self-arrest, and/or
ice-axe belay
4)  Demonstrated sound judgment, mountaineering competence, and
leadership ability on two Class 3 or harder PCS trips or equivalent

Class Four: (use of rope for belays)

1)  Qualification for Third Class list
2)  Knowledgeable and experienced in all of the following: roped
climbing, which includes belaying, rappelling, knot tying, and anchor
setting; ice axe use, which includes self-arrest and ice-axe belay.
Recent experience with crampons.
3)  Demonstrated sound judgment, mountaineering competence, and
leadership ability on two Class 4 or harder PCS trips or equivalent

Class Five: (technical rock climbing)

1)  Qualifications for the Fourth Class list
2)  Had to have lead at least three routes equal to or better than the
class of climb to be lead
3)  Knowledgeable, and has demonstrated experience in all aspects of
rope management and handling.  Proficient with anchor setting, placing
of protection for safety, belaying, and rappelling.
4)  Demonstrated sound judgment, mountaineering competence, and
leadership ability on two Class 5 PCS trips or equivalent

Winter Trips:

1) Qualifications of class of climb to be lead
2) Two seasons of winter mountaineering, including extensive snow
3) Proficiency with skis or snow shows, ice axe, crampons, and ice axe
4) Substantial navigational experience, including white-out and storm
5) Advanced first aid preferred, with an understanding of hypothermia,
frost bite, and pulmonary edema
6) Avalanche course

Responsibilities of Leaders and Participants
The climbs of the Section range from comparatively slow-paced trips
which follow established trails almost all the way to the summit to
climbs in which strenuous cross-country travel must be capped off with
some steep and possibly exposed climbing in order to attain the goal.
This variety of climbs represents an endeavor to provide a schedule
directed toward the interests and capabilities of every Section member.
There is a leader assigned to each PCS trip.  The wide variety of climbs
makes it important to match climbers and climbs, and for the leader of a
climb and his companions to understand their responsibilities to one
MEMBERS OF THE PARTY.  To fulfill this responsibility, the leader needs
the full cooperation of each climber, and may restrict a climb, or some
portion of it, to climbers with certain types of experience.  As climbs
increase in difficulty, the leader can expect the individual climbers to
assume an increasing share of the responsibility.

Leader's Duties and Responsibilities:
1) The leader, or his/her designated representative, has the ultimate
responsibility and authority on all PCS trips for reasons of safety.
This responsibility includes foot travel to base camp, to the base of
the peak(s), the climb of the peak(s), and return to the trailhead.

2) The trip officially begins at the trailhead.  The leader is not
responsible for carpools.
3) The leader will determine the maximum number of trip participants,
depending on the difficulty of the trip and the popularity of the area
4) The leader will determine who may participate on the trip.  Factors
to be considered include the type of trip, the participants' experience,
equipment, climbing ability, his/her judgment, and behavior on previous
PCS trips.  It is suggested that "Leader Screening for Trip
Participants" (Appendix C) be used as an aid in the screening process
for trip participants.
5) The leader is responsible for making sure sufficient safety equipment
for the group is brought. The leader may require special personal
equipment specific to the trip.
6) The leader will brief all participants at the trailhead prior to
leaving the cars on the following:  route(s) to camp, rendezvous points,
campsite location, climbing schedule, and other pertinent information.
The purpose of this briefing is to aid the participant, should he become
separated from the group.
7) If the leader does not participate in any part of a trip, (s)he
should designate a representative with adequate experience who will have
the same responsibilities.
8) The leader has the authority to determine if and when the party
should turn back for reasons of weather, climbing conditions, Rockwell,
avalanche danger, and/or route difficulty.  The leader also has the
authority to require a participant to stay in a given location on the
peak or to return to camp WHEN IT IS SAFE, if the participant's actions
threaten the safety of the party.
9) The leader is responsible for making sure all members of the party
are safe and accounted for at all times.  This includes making sure all
participants return from the climb to camp and also that all
participants have returned to the trailhead.
10) In case of accident or illness, the leader is responsible for
ensuring first aid treatment.
11) Recommended reading: "Outing Leader Handbook" published by the
Sierra Club Council.

Participant's Responsibilities
1) The trip participant agrees to abide by the decisions of the leader
at all times on PCS trips, except when (s)he feels the leader has made a
dangerous error in judgment.  A primary aim should be for the
participant to resolve the issue with the leader.  Leadership complaints
should be submitted to the Mountaineering Committee Chair in writing.
2) In no case should a trip participant attempt or abandon a climb, camp
in a different area, or return to the trailhead without the leader's
permission.  If the participant elects to not abide by the leader's
direction, then the Sierra Club/PCS cannot be held accountable for the
participant's safety.
3) The trip participant agrees to provide all personal climbing
equipment required by the leader.
4) It is the leader's responsibility to brief all participants prior to
leaving the trailhead.  If the leader neglects to provide this briefing,
it is the participant's responsibility to request that the leader do so.
5) In case of emergency, all participants agree to help in any way
possible at the direction of the leader
New Operating Rule Proposals
History of Rules for Picking Leaders
The PCS formed a Leadership Qualification Committee back in 1974, and
that committee drafted (and published) a PROPOSAL for how to select
leaders. Steve's research (old Scree issues and people who were there)
shows this was probably a result of some people being barred from
leadership. There were charges of sexism and favoritism (some
published). It appears that the proposal was brought up for a vote, but
there were not enough votes to amend the PCS Bylaws. Two years later
(76) the guidelines were once again published, with a preface by Cline
that emphasized they were guidelines and not requirements. Then in 1977
the Operating Rule clause was added to the bylaws, two months after a
leader candidate
Diana called for disbanding the Mountaineering Committee because they
were not following the bylaws. It appears the Operating Rule clause was
added as a first step in adopting the proposed policy without having to
amend the bylaws each time the policy was changed. Dina's death on Mt
Shasta seems to have terminated the debate, leaving the leadership
certification process in limbo until 1995. Benham and Magliocco's
efforts to assemble the PCS Binder and put the PCS records in order
uncovered this proposal, and it was put into the Binder as official
policy after a vote in Aug. 1995. The problem is that Operating Rules
must be published before they are voted on, and the text put into the
Binder was revised in 95. It has never been published in the Scree. The
policy was downgraded (in the Binder) to a proposal in 1997.
Mountaineering Committee Charter Background:
The PCS Bylaws say "The Chairman of the Section calls and presides at
the meetings of the Section, enforces the By-Laws of the Section, and
appoints and may remove members of committees to carry out the work of
the Section." and "Standing committees shall include a Mountaineering
Committee, which maintains a list of peaks and lists of member and
leader qualifications, conducts training seminars, and assists the Vice
Chairman in scheduling outings;" and "The Vice-Chairman of the Section
is responsible for the selection of leaders for, and the scheduling of,
the outings of the Section, subject to the approval of the
Mountaineering Committee." and "Rules for making more explicit the
operating procedures of the Section may be adopted or modified by the
following method. Rules as defined in this article shall not be in
conflict with the By-Laws."
In recent years, the MtnComm has been operating under guidelines which
they say represent the criteria for being a PCS leader. The Vice Chair
has been using a list of leaders compiled by the MtnComm instead of
selecting leaders and asking for approval from the MtnComm. There are
some who say the guidelines represent a list of leader qualifications,
meaning they should choose who is a leader, while others think a list of
qualifications means a list of achievements and skills. If we are to
have rules for who is a leader, the creation and maintenance of those
rules properly fall into the category of a PCS Operating Rule.
On the other hand, it may be just an administrative decision to pick
leaders - in which case we don't need a formal Operating Rule.
There are records going back over 20 years which indicate this debate is
not going to go away on its own. The MtnComm does a great job, but in
the past there have been accusations of favoritism and even sexism.
These problems are best avoided by a clearly documented charter for the
MtnComm, so we can go climbing and stop debating the bylaws.
Proposed Operating Rule 9801: MtnComm Charter with Skills Lists
Mountaineering Committee Charter
The MtnComm will have at least a Chair at all times, and this person
will be responsible for maintaining accurate records of "member and
leader qualifications", which consist of accomplishments and skills on a
per-person basis, as required by the bylaws. These records will be made
available to the Vice-Chair for use in selecting trip leaders, and to
trip leaders for use in screening trip applicants. These records will
include copies of First Aid certificates, mountaineering training course
certificates, lists of peaks climbed, etc., as supplied by the person
who wishes their record to be updated.
The MtnComm may also create objective guidelines for those skills and
achievements which qualify a member to lead various types of trips, but
those guidelines shall not be used by the PCS until they have been voted
on as a PCS Operating Rule according to the PCS Bylaws.
The PCS Chair appoints the MtnComm Chair for a one-year term, and the
MtnComm chair in turn selects the rest of the MtnComm members. A MtnComm
representative will be included in all PCS Officer's meetings.
Proposed Operating Rule 9802: MtnComm Charter with Leader Criteria
Mountaineering Committee Charter
The MtnComm will have at least a Chair at all times, and this person
will be responsible for maintaining "member and leader qualifications",
which consist of criteria to be considered a member and/or a leader, in
addition to a list of those who currently meet the criteria.
The MtnComm shall create objective guidelines for those skills and
achievements which qualify a member to lead various types of trips, such
as First Aid certificates, mountaineering training courses, provisional
trips, lists of peaks climbed, etc., and may create subjective
guidelines for leadership skills, past performance, etc. These
guidelines may be revised at the discretion of the current MtnComm
without being voted into effect as a PCS Operating Rule under the PCS
These criteria shall be used by the MtnComm to compile a list of trip
leaders, and which types of trips they are qualified to lead, which the
Vice-Chair uses to schedule trips, as required by the bylaws. These
criteria will also be used by the MtnComm to compile a list of active
members, and which types of trips they are qualified to attend, which
trip leaders use to screen trip applicants.
The PCS Chair appoints the MtnComm Chair and the rest of the MtnComm
members, who serve until they are removed by the PCS Chair. A MtnComm
representative will be included in all PCS Officer's meetings.

Official (PCS) Trips
PCS trips must be submitted through the Scheduler (see back cover for
details). Trips not received from the Scheduler will be listed as
PRIVATE, without recourse.

Delenda Est Cartago
Peaks:  Muah, Cartago; class 2, 2s3
Dates:  May 16-17    Sat-Sun
Maps:   Olancha 15 min.
Leaders:        Steve Eckert    H 650-508-0500  eckert@netcom.com
        Aaron Schuman   H 650-968-9184
        W 650-943-7532
Details: http://sj.znet.com/~cynthiam/cartago.html
Join us for the long backpack from Horseshoe Meadows to Mt Muah 11016,
class 2) and Cartago Peak (10480+, class 2s3).  It's a desert area, but
quite a bit of last winter's snow might linger. We're covering a lot of
mileage in two days; so come prepared for a workout.  Peakbaggers with
more time may join Steve on Kern
Peak (11,510) on Monday.

Twin Peaks 12,240' Class 3
Peak:   Twin Peaks 12,240 class 3
Dates:  Jul 25 - Jul 26
Leaders:        Debbie Bulger   408-457-1036
        Arun Mahajan    408-244-7912
Last year we climbed Virginia Peak. This year we are going back to get
Twin. The trail from near Bridgeport leads us through amazingly
beautiful country over Virginia Pass and into Virginia Canyon. I suspect
the wildflowers will be spectacular this year. Perhaps the exposure will
be equally spectacular. It may depend on the snow level.
Pending Official Trips
As of publication, these trips are not yet official trips. They have
been submitted to the mountaineering committee for approval and we hope
that it will be designated official when the trip takes place.

Sawmill Pass
Peaks:  Baxter, Colosseum; class 2, 1
Dates:  Jun. 06-07       Sat-Sun
Maps:   Pinchot 15 min. or Aberdeen 7.5 min.
Leaders:        Steve Eckert    H 650-508-0500
        Aaron Schuman   H 650-968-9184
        W 650-943-7532, aaron_schuman@yahoo.com
Details: http://sj.znet.com/~cynthiam/sawmill.html
Starting from the thirsty roadhead at only 4600 feet, labor up to
Sawmill Pass (11343).  Visit Mt. Baxter (13136, class 2) and Colosseum
Mt. (12451, class 1).  Expect to climb into last winter's snow.  Ice axe
and crampons are required. The days will be long and the pace fast.
This will be a fun trip for experienced snow climbers.

The Harringtons and the Kennedys
Peaks:  Mt Harrington (11,005') class 3,
        Mt Kennedy (11,433') class 1
Dates:  June 13-14 (maybe 15)      Sat-Sun (maybe Mon)
Map:    Cedar Grove, Slide Bluffs; USGS 7.5 min
Leader: Bob Suzuki         
        (H)408-259-0772, (W)510-657-7555
        Co-Leader and contact: Ron Karpel        (W)510-683-4668
X231,   (H)650-594-0211
Mid June is the perfect time to climb these scenic peaks in the lower
regions of Kings Canyon NP. Harrington is a very good looking peak with
a steep class 3 rock  summit with lots of hand holds in solid granite.
Kennedy is a short distance from the well maintained trail over Kennedy
Pass. Given the deep snow pack this year, we expect interesting stream
crossings, and lots of snow climbing. Participants have to be
experienced with ice axe and crampons. Saturday, starting from the Lewis
Creek Trailhead, it is 7200' and 14 miles to the top of Mt. Kennedy  and
back to our camp in Frypan Meadow. Sunday, we will climb Harrington and
return to the trailhead. Monday is a spare day in case the heavy snow
slows us down too much.

Leavitt Peak
Peaks:  Leavitt Pk. (11,569) and TBD (?)class 2 snow
Date:   June 20-21 Sat-Sun
Contact:        Kelly Maas, maas@idt.com, 408-279-2054
This is an early season trip intended for beginners who want to gain
more snow experience.  There will be plenty of snow, but the climbing
isn't particularly hard.  The climbs also won't be real long, so there
should be plenty of time to practice with ice axe and crampons on mild
slopes.  We'll car camp and climb another comparable peak on Sunday.
Climbers of all abilities are welcome, and I'm working to get a couple
of additional experienced climbers to help out.  Any takers? Leavitt is
located at Sonora Pass on Hwy 108.
Unofficial (Private) Trips
Private trips may be submitted directly to the Scree Editor, but are not
insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra Club. They are listed
here because they may be of interest to PCS members, not because they
are endorsed by the PCS.

Mountaineers on the Hood
Peaks:  Mt. Hood, possibly St. Helens
Date:   May 2-3 Sat-Sun
Contact:        David Harris   harrisd@leland.stanford.edu   (650) 725-8811
Join us for a romp up this spectacular Cascade volcano. We'll be flying
into Portland Friday evening and driving to Hood for an alpine start on
Saturday.  If time permits, we may visit St. Helens on Sunday.  Ice axe
and crampons required.  If you have not climbed with me before, please
send a resume of your experience and conditioning.

Cravasse Rescue Practice
Place:  Rancho San Antonio Park
Date:   May 17, Sunday
Contact:        Kelly Maas
        maas@idt.com, 408-279-2054
Come spend a few hours practicing craves rescue techniques. Practice
prusiking and setting up pully systems.  Advance reading is strongly
recommended, since I don't organize this as an instructional session.
Good books are "Glacier Travel and Cravasse Rescue" by Andy Selters, and
"Mountaineering - Freedom of the Hills". Contact me for meeting time and
suggested gear.
Tahoe Peaks Car Camp
Peaks: Various Tahoe area peaks
Dates: May 23-25
Leader: George Sinclair 650-941-2160, geosinc@aol.com
Spend the Memorial Day Weekend climbing some high peaks in the Lake
Tahoe area.  Snowshoes or skis recommended, along with ice axe.

Mount Adams
Peak:   Mt. Adams
Date:   May 23-25 Sat-Mon
Contact:        David Harris  harrisd@leland.stanford.edu (650) 725-8811
Experienced ice climbers may join us for a challenging ascent of the
Adams Glacier on Mt. Adams.  We'll fly to Portland Friday  evening.
Saturday will include the approach hike to the base of the icefall on
the Adams Glacier and should have time for crevice rescue practice.  On
Sunday we will attempt the ice fall. Monday is an extra day in case of
weather or other adverse conditions. There is a serious rockfall risk,
so helmets are advised in addition to crampons, ropes, and ice tools.
Warning: I am not an experienced ice climber and not the leader on ice.
If you would like to join us, send a climbing resume of relevant
experience and conditioning.

Matterhorn Peak
Peak:    Matterhorn Peak (12,264), Class 3 snow
Dates:   May 23-25
Map:     Matterhorn Peak, Buckeye Ridge 7.5 min.
Contact:         Kai Wiedman (650)347-5234
The Sawtooth Ridge is an alpine cluster of peaks known for its clean,
white granite and interesting glaciers. The Ridge contains much charm
and is affectionately known as, "The Poor Man's Chamonix."  The
Matterhorn is an impressive peak with a commanding view. Secor thinks a
ski tour from the summit can be one of the finest mountaineering
experiences on the continent. Ski or snowshoes necessary.

Mt. Hutchings
Peak:   Mt Hutchings (10785), Class-2
Date:   June 6-7
Maps:   Marion Peak (15 minute)
Trailhead:      Copper Creek (Cedar Grove, Kings Canyon)
Contact:        Siamak Navid (sia@sr.hp.com)
        (707) 577-4845 W
        (707) 537-9293 H
The peak is about a mile west of the trail. The climb looks like a
relatively easy one in a normal year. This year we will probably
encounter a fair amount of snow, therefore ice axes are required. The
trail starts fairly steeply at 5000 ft and climbs about 3500 ft to our
intended camp for Saturday night at Upper Tent Meadow. We will climb the
peak on Sunday and return to trailhead.

Williamson by William Again
Peak:   Williamson (14,375') class 3 (snow)
Dates:  June 12-15
Contact:        Bill Kirkpatrick (408) 293-2774         Wmkirk@earthlink.net
Co-contact: Alex Keith (650) 325-1091   akeith@crc.ricoh.com
Pack in to Anvil Camp on Friday.  Saturday we will hike to the top of
Shepard's Pass, across he Williamson Bowl, to the top of Williamson and
then back to Anvil Camp.  Sunday we return to the cars.  This will be an
arduous climb, through amazing country.  Expect lots of snow and ice.
The topo is Mt Williamson.
Kings Canyon Peakfest
Peaks:  Goat Mountain, 12,207'
        Kid Peak, 11,458'
        State Peak, 12,620'
        Dougherty Peak, 12,244'
        Marion Peak, 12,719'
        Kennedy Mtn, 11,433'
Dates:  July 3, thru July 10
Contact:        Debbie Bulger   408-457-1036
This week-long backpack will take us to three base camps. The peaks are
mostly second class. After ascending from the trailhead in Kings Canyon,
we will proceed in a counter-clockwise loop, both on and off trail,
climbing as we go. If the terrain, sun cups and cornices cooperate, we
will cross from Volcanic Lakes to E. Kennedy Lake on our way to Kennedy
Mountain. Ice ax required. Crampons strongly recommended. Long
weekenders (Fri-Sun) who wish to climb only Goat and Kid are welcome,
however preference will be given to those opting for the whole trip.

Scotch on the Rocks
Peaks:  Lyell (13,115') and Maclure (?) class 3
Dates:  July 17-19
Contact:        Bill Kirkpatrick (408) 293-2774         Wmkirk@earthlink.net
Co-contact: Alex Keith (650) 325-1091   akeith@crc.ricoh.com
 Starting from Tuolomne Meadows, we will pack through the Lyell Canyon
on Friday.  We will summit Lyell on Saturday and, if conditions permit,
Maclure. The topo is Mt Lyell.  Be prepared for snow.  Permit for 6

Peak:   Mera Peak (21,200),
Date:   October 1998 (21 day trip)
Contact:        Warren Storkman
        4180 Mackay Drive
        Palo Alto, CA 94306
Trekking from Arun river through a seldom traveled route we experience
seeing villages and people not accustomed to westerners.  Both climb or
Trek is 21 days.  Cost $1880 - a non-commercial private trip.
Mera Peak Climb (21,200 ft.) Mera is a non-technical peak and one of the
finest vantage points in the Khumbu.  This breathtaking mountain
panorama includes no less than five of the worlds fourteen 18,000 metre
Kalapattar Trek (18,000 ft) looks down upon Everest Base Camp.

ABC:  Anarchist Brewer Climbers
Peaks:  Mt.  Brewer, North Guard, South Guard,
        Deerhorn, Francis Farquhar, West Vidette,
        Charlotte Dome
Date:   July 3-9 (Friday - Thursday)
Contact:        David Harris, harrisd@leland.stanford.edu
        (650) 725-8811
        John Bees, jbees@dri.edu, (702) 851-0949
Join a merry band of climbers for a week in the Northern Great Western
Divide. We are planning to share a campground, but go our separate ways
to climb everything from 2nd class slag heaps to fifth class walls. The
approach will give the opportunity for Deerhorn or one of the Videttes.
We'll make a base camp near East Lake, giving access to technical and
non-technical routes on Mt. Brewer, North Gurad, South Guard, and
Francis Farquhar.  Some of us may attempt the classic face of Charlotte
Dome on the way out.  Anything else in the vicinity is fair game too.
If you are looking for technical climbs, find your own rope partner.  If
you prefer 3rd class, you are welcome to join the contingent doing those
routes.  Be aware that this is an "anarchist" trip with no central
leadership except coordination of the permits and an opportunity for
good company in camp.

Climb-O-Rama '98
Peaks:  Tunnabora, Joe Devel, McAdie, Guyot, Hale, Chamberlin, Pickering,
Mallory and others
Dates:  June 27-July 5 or July 6
Contact:        Bob Suzuki, bobszk@pacbell.net 408-259-0772
        Steve Eckert, eckert@netcom.com 650-508-0500
If you have only one long vacation this summer, this is it! We think we
can do 14 peaks in 8 days, with only one day over 4000' of gain and no
day over 12 miles, most under 10 miles, entering and exiting at Whitney
Portal. We've got it down to 3 backcountry campsites, from which you
will have access to all 16 of the SPS list peaks in the Whitney area.
9000' of gain for the full week, and day trips to several peaks per day
will allow cutting back if you want to relax. Ice axe and crampons
required. You will need to sign a liability waiver which you can obtain
Also you will need to convince us that you know what you are doing
We have already secured two permits for 6 people each. The $50 cost for
both permits will be split among the people who go. Contact either one
of us for details or to reserve a spot: $10 non-refundable deposit when
you sign up, to be given back to you at the trailhead, less permit cost.
Trip Reports
Excellent Excelsior Experience
Short report (i.e. useful info if you plan a trip there):
Topo: Dunderberg Peak Quadrangle, 7.5' series
Trailhead: Conway Summit, 12 Miles South of Bridgeport on 395 [road to
Virginia Lakes was closed]
Time of year: mid April in El Nino year (98)
Conditions: mostly snow, great weather
Length: 2 1/2 days, or 2 days (with long 12 hour second day)
Elevation: 12446' Excelsior summit, 4300' elevation gain from trailhead
Drive: 270 mi to trailhead from Bay Area, up Carson Pass, through Minden
and Bridgeport
Equipment: crampons, ice-axe, snow shoes, poles, too much weight for
summary: camped near Frog Lakes the 1st night, up the peak the second
Summit Route: up the 11100' col at the end of the drainage,  then up the
broad 11800' peak staying on the left, then up to the beginning of the
excelsior ridge at 12200',  finally following the rocky ridge for 30
min. to summit at 12446',
Down the same way
Long report:
After a fairly fast trip from the Bay Area to the East side, we spent
Friday night at Bridgeport's  motel. In the morning, Peter Maxwell and I
met Debbie Benham, Jim Ramaker and Arun Mahajan for breakfast (Sportsman
Inn was surprisingly  closed for breakfast) and got started at the
trailhead around 9AM, loaded up to our ears with gear.
The sun was high, and the spirits were high despite the load.
We followed the Virginia Lake road for about 6 miles, getting to the
resort at lunch time. For a while we considered climbing Dunderberg,
which towers over Virginia Lakes: its snow-free ridges were a safe
alternative to its avalanches gulches. But we persisted in setting out
to climb Excelsior instead.
The terrain changed, as we found our way up the hill and passed Virginia
Lakes and Cooney Lake. The packs got suddenly heavier. By 4pm, we had
set camp on the bench above Frog Lakes. Quite a fine evening, with a
brilliant sunset and the MSR roar in the background.
On Sunday, we got started by 7:15 AM, snow shoes on. We moved fast and
reached the top of the "pass" within an hour. The inevitable question
was "where to go next" and the answer came from the map. We started
climbing up a broad hill with 2 corner shaped summits: as the slope
became steeper, we switched to crampons. At the top of this hill, we
could see Excelsior, the second peak South along the ridge in front of
us. It seemed still far.
However, after reaching the top of the next bench, we realized that the
route was a rocky ridge  and we no longer needed packs nor crampons. We
reached the summit before 11:30AM, basking in windless and sunny
conditions, surrounded with snow covered Sierra: Conness, Lyell, Ragged
Peak, Virginia, Ritter and Banner to name a few. And afar, the Grand
Canyon of the Tuolumme. What a backdrop for many photographs!
We also enjoyed going through the register, finding PCS'ers names and
the name of a 10 year old French girl from the Alps. And, for me, a
comforting feeling of "deja vu"...
Back to camp at 3pm, 3 of us headed out right away while Peter and I
stayed one more night. It turns out the hike out was longer than
remembered, even for our fresh souls and bodies the next morning.
To complete this story, I'll include some post-trip comments from our
party, comments which give full depth to the Experience. Jim: "We set a
PCS record with 2 motel rooms and 2 suppers at the Sportsman's Cafe in a
single weekend. "
Arun: "the chocolate biscuit that I had brought along is called
Le Truffe and can be found in the cookies section of many fine
participating Safeway's."
Peter: "Our couscous with garlic spices, with roasted cashews added in,
together with Snowballs for dessert was tasty also."
Debbie: "A wonderful trip, wonderful company"
* Anouchka Gaillard

Winter's Over, Blokes!
March 15, 1998 English Mountain, 8373', Steve Eckert & Hal Murray
Climbing this mountain in the summer is a few hour jaunt from the car
(Bowman Lake from Hwy 20, Jackson Lake from Hwy 89, etc.) but in the
winter there are few easy options.
If you're heading south from Sierra City, ignore the PCT trailhead on
Hwy 49 and look for the Wild Plum Campground signs instead.
We walked right past a PCT junction on snowmobile tracks, but lost no
time since there was another road that went back to the trail further up
the hill. A GPS is a good idea, with Hal The Luddite even asking for the
occasional location check as we turned and twisted around open streams,
cliffs, and trees.
>From about 5000' on, we could find no sign of the trail. LOTS of snow
this year! We lost the trail near a bridge across Miller Creek that had
3' hand rails and over 5' of snow in the middle. An exciting crossing,
on skis, climbing a pile of snow higher than it was wide while looking
down 15' at the stream. From there we sort of headed for the east rim of
the canyon, plowing through some close trees and very glad to have
climbing skins. Further up the drainage, at around 6000', we kept
getting pushed east by small cliffs and dense trees, and wound up doing
a little extra distance getting to Bear Valley.
Jackson Reservoir was a welcome sight. We finally were out of the trees
and knew just where we were. There was plenty of snow on a perfectly
flat ice crust, so we skied a mile across the 6100' lake and headed up
the road toward the saddle north of English Mtn. We miscommunicated on
fuel, and only had 11 ounces for 2 people and 2 nights, so melting snow
for drinking water was going to cut our trip short or force us into cold
dinners. Fortunately, we found a spring. Unfortunately, there was 7' of
overhanging snow on the banks of the tiny stream. I shoveled a ramp down
the side while Hal worked on the tent, and we soon had iodized water
warming in our sleeping bags. Overnight low was 33 degrees.
Sunday was as clear as Saturday, a welcome sight after months of El
Nino's weather tantrums. We skied the road toward Jackson Lake, then cut
cross country to the northern ridge of English, climbing with skins once
we got on the ridge proper. The trees are well spaced and there was no
brush showing through the heavy snowpack, so we stayed right on the
ridge until several hundred feet below the summit where the west slope
steepened and the ridge was small cliffs. We kicked steps the last 200',
where an ice axe would have been nice but not absolutely required, and
stood on the summit at 10:30am. It was not windy, and warm enough for my
summer-weight polypro with a wind layer!
The view was amazing. From Lassen to Round Top we saw a sea of white
peaks on forested hills. There were miles-long cornices on little ridges
that probably have little snow during a normal winter.
Returning to camp, we skied back across the reservoir and down to 6100'
hoping to avoid some icy crust in the morning. Surprise! It rained in
the wee hours of the morning, and the snow was slush the next day.
Soaked from brushing wet trees and one or two short sprinkles, we moved
steadily downhill in mid-40 degree temperatures and dried as the sun
shone off and on. We were back at the car around noon, and drove home
through Truckee.
* Steve Eckert
Scree is the monthly journal of the Peak Climbing Section of the Sierra
Club, Loma Prieta Chapter.
Elected Officials
        Roger  Crawley
        650-321-8602  home
        761 Nash Avenue, Menlo Park, CA 94025
Vice Chair and Trip Scheduler:
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        650 327-8598 home, 408-473-8029 work,
        1745 Alma Street, Palo Alto, Ca 94301.
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        408-957-9683 home
        1025 Abbott Avenue, Milpitas, CA 95035
Appointed Positions
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        510-659-1413 home
        761 Towhee Court, Fremont CA 94539-7421
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Subscriptions and Email List Info
Hard copy subscriptions are $10. Subscription applications and checks
payable to ?PCS? should be mailed to the Treasurer so they arrive before
the last Tuesday of the expiration month. If you are on the PCS email
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subscribers should send a subscription form to the Treasurer to become
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Rock Climbing Classifications
The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing trips
for which you are qualified. No simple rating system can anticipate all
possible conditions.
        Class 1: Walking on a trail.
        Class 2: Walking cross-country, using hands for balance.
        Class 3: Requires use of hands for climbing, rope may be used.
        Class 4: Requires rope belays.
        Class 5: Technical rock climbing.

Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 5/31/98. Meetings
are the second Tuesday of each month.

Peak Climbing Section, 789 Daffodil Way, San Jose CA 95117
"Vy can't ve chust climb?" - John Salathe       First Class Mail - Dated