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Scree for June, 1998

     This publication may not be posted on any public news group.
                                       June, 1998   Vol. 32, No. 6
    Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 6/21/97.


    Next meeting (PCS meetings are the second tuesday of each month)


June, 1998      Peak Climbing Section, Loma Prieta Chapter, Sierra Club Vol.
32, No. 6

Next General Meeting
Date:   Tuesday, June 9, 1998
Time:   8:00 PM

Program: Baffin Island by Bob DeNike
Baffin Island, a part of Canada's Northwest Territories, is a barren ice
covered island with spectacular scenery, is located north of Hudson Bay
and is bisected by the Arctic Circle. For those of you who have not seen
Bob's slides of Baffin Island, I highly recommend this program.
Location: The North Face
217 Alma Street in Palo Alto, just north of the CalTrain station go
North and turn right into the Town & Country


Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 6/21/98. Meetings
are the second Tuesday of each month.


I value the Peak Climbing Section highly, and I deeply appreciate all
the people whose contributions make it possible for our club to exist:
The trip leaders, most of all, because what's best about the PCS happens
in the mountains;
The trip participants, especially the ones who tell funny campfire
stories, share extra mittens, get giddy at the summit, and press on in
spite of their blisters;
The officers and committee members, because their volunteer efforts
grease the wheels that make club activities happen;
Everybody who writes for the newsletter;
Everybody who brings food to meetings and potlucks,
Everybody who shows slides at meetings;
Everybody who applauds the slide show presenters;
And you.

- Aaron Schuman


9801/9802 Results.

Steve Eckert presented the two proposed mountaineering committee
operating rules that he had published in the May Scree.  This was
followed by several minutes of discussion, then votes. Neither was
approved.  Results:
Votes Cast By PCS Members Present May 9, 1998
9801:   Ayes    4       9802:   Ayes    4
        Noes    22              Noes    18

- Nancy Fitzsimmons, Secretary.


Trail Repair

Pacific Crest Trail Repair
Tahoe National Forest
Date: July 17-20
Contact: Larry Krumm, 408/270-4513
Would you like to repair the wilderness?  I am leading a work party July
17-20 in the Tahoe National Forest.  A party of 12 (including a cook)
will work form a 'car camp' basecamp to clear logs and restore tread to
the Pacific Crest Trail. Cost: nothing. Food for the whole trip is
Official (PCS) Trips

PCS trips must be submitted through the Scheduler (see back cover for
details). Trips not received from the Scheduler will be listed as
PRIVATE, without recourse.

Sawmill Pass

Peaks:  Baxter, Colosseum; class 2, 1
Dates:  Jun. 06-07       Sat-Sun
Maps:   Pinchot 15 min. or Aberdeen 7.5 min.
Leaders:        Steve Eckert    H 650-508-0500
        Aaron Schuman   H 650-968-9184
        W 650-943-7532, aaron_schuman@yahoo.com
Details: http://sj.znet.com/~cynthiam/sawmill.html
Starting from the thirsty roadhead at only 4600 feet, labor up to
Sawmill Pass (11343).  Visit Mt. Baxter (13136, class 2) and Colosseum
Mt. (12451, class 1).  Expect to climb into last winter's snow.  Ice axe
and crampons are required. The days will be long and the pace fast.
This will be a fun trip for experienced snow climbers.

The Harringtons and the Kennedys

Peaks:  Mt Harrington (11,005') class 3,
        Mt Kennedy (11,433') class 1
Dates:  June 13-14 (maybe 15)      Sat-Sun (maybe Mon)
Map:    Cedar Grove, Slide Bluffs; USGS 7.5 min
Leader: Bob Suzuki         bobszk@bigfoot.com
        (H)408-259-0772, (W)510-657-7555
        Co-Leader and contact: Ron Karpel       rkarpel@usa.net
X231,   (H)650-594-0211

Mid June is the perfect time to climb these scenic peaks in the lower
regions of Kings Canyon NP. Harrington is a very good looking peak with
a steep class 3 rock  summit with lots of hand holds in solid granite.
Kennedy is a short distance from the well maintained trail over Kennedy
Pass. Given the deep snow pack this year, we expect interesting stream
crossings, and lots of snow climbing. Participants have to be
experienced with ice axe and crampons. Saturday, starting from the Lewis
Creek Trailhead, it is 7200' and 14 miles to the top of Mt. Kennedy  and
back to our camp in Frypan Meadow. Sunday, we will climb Harrington and
return to the trailhead. Monday is a spare day in case the heavy snow
slows us down too much.

Matterhorn Peak
Peak:   Matterhorn Peak (12,279), class-2
Dates:  July 25-26
Maps:   Matterhorn Peak
Leader: Ron Karpel rkarpel@usa.net
        Co-Leader and Contact : Nancy Fitzsimmons
        (408) 957-9683
This is a loop trip. Saturday we will start from Twin Lakes, take the
Robinson Creek trail and camp in Little Slide Canyon. Sunday we will
climb the peak by the Southwest slope and return to Twin Lakes via Horse
Creek. This trip is suitable for strong backpackers and hikers with a
desire to take on mountain climbing.

Pending Official Trips

As of publication, these trips are not yet official trips. They have
been submitted to the mountaineering committee for approval and we hope
that it will be designated official when the trip takes place.

Leavitt Peak

Peaks:  Leavitt Pk. (11,569) and TBD (?)class 2 snow
Date:   June 20-21 Sat-Sun
Contact:        Kelly Maas, maas@idt.com, 408-279-2054
This is an early season trip intended for beginners who want to gain
more snow experience.  There will be plenty of snow, but the climbing
isn't particularly hard.  The climbs also won't be real long, so there
should be plenty of time to practice with ice axe and crampons on mild
slopes.  We'll car camp and climb another comparable peak on Sunday.
Climbers of all abilities are welcome, and I'm working to get a couple
of additional experienced climbers to help out.  Any takers? Leavitt is
located at Sonora Pass on Hwy 108.

Notes and Requests

Medic/First Aid Classes

To help trip leaders and would-be leaders get the required First Aid
certificate, the Chapter sponsors a First Aid class each quarter, based
on a nationally recognized first aid text, but with added material and
emphasis on wilderness situations with no phone to dial 911. The next
First Aid classes will be Saturday, August 22 and Sunday, August 23 at
the Peninsula Conservation Center in Palo Alto (from Bayshore/Hwy. 101
at San Antonio, turn toward the Bay; turn left at 1st stoplight, then
right at Corporation Way to park behind PCC). Class is 8:30 a.m. to 5:30
p.m. (1 hour for your bag lunch) and is limited to 12 people. To sign
up, send a check for $38 with a stamped, self-addressed business-sized
envelope to: Health Education Services, 200 Waverly, Menlo Park, CA
94025. Cancellations get partial refund if a substitute attends (you get
to keep the Wilderness First Aid book). For more information, call

- Marg  Ottenberg

List Owner Farewell

First, let me apologize for the recent spate of political messages on
the email lists. I was justified in making a proposal, and I had a right
to expect the vote I was promised before making the proposal, but I got
carried away trying to get that vote to actually occur and to have a
real debate before the vote. I should have walked away much sooner. When
it did occur, it was more a vote on the controversy than on the rule
itself. We are still where we were, with unofficial "rules".
Second, I wish I had been able to stop the publication of all those
MtnComm "policy" pages in the recent (and confusing) Scree. As chair of
the Publicity Committee, it should have been my call on what to publish.
Roger over-ruled me in violation of PCS bylaws, and several people have
indicated that they could not sort out what was being voted on and what
was already in place (as I predicted would happen). I will never know if
the confusion was intentional.
Third, Bill Kirkpatrick has replaced me as Chair of the PCS PubComm. The
PubComm charter says the chair is appointed for a one year term to
insulate the Scree from political pressure, but in this case the rules
are not being followed. Roger Crawley announced at the last PCS meeting
that Bill was replacing me midterm. (Was that the best choice for the
PCS or retaliation for something I had done? Is Bill more capable of
doing the job?) I am taking the boot quietly even though I was not
notified in advance of the announcement and have not been given a reason
for my dismissal.
Bill will be looking for someone to maintain the PCS Binder, to run the
email lists, to forward mail to the "-news" version of the list, to
publish the PDF version of the EScree, etc. If you would like to do
that, stand up. Soon. Bill's first call for help, upon being notified of
the tasks I was turning over to him, said "I am totally incapable of
taking over these responsibilities."
Don't expect to be as bound by written rules as you may have been in the
past. Again quoting Bill: "I do not sit around reading PCS rules and
regulations and I do not intend to." That should be a relief for some,
and a cause of alarm for others.
I think it's best for the PCS and this email list if I remove myself and
let things settle down. A recent climbing trip with a cohesive group, no
conflicts, challenging route finding, and a beautiful summit reminded me
what the server was supposed to do: make it easier and more fun to go
climbing. (Thanks to all who came along - it was truly a great weekend,
and gave me a chance to gain some perspective.) I'm going to stop doing
things I don't enjoy and spend more time with people who don't see me as
a threat.
I've been at the "climbing email list" task for a long time. I set up a
crude BBS (remember them?) on my Apollo computer (1993), then sort of a
home-brew mailing list that reflected off my netcom account (1994), then
got a primitive email list called sc-pcs (1995), moved it onto a new
server and called it sc-peaks (1996), and finally got Sierra Club policy
in place which allowed us to create the current lomap-peak-climbing
email list (1996). That was many years of effort, with huge results,
that I'm proud of. In combination with Aaron's efforts as webmaster, the
Scree is now going to about three times as many people as it used to, we
have trips all year, we have new participants and new leaders... in
short, the number of trips is up and that was my primary goal. Over 400
people read this msg via email. I hope there will be even more in a few
months or a few years.
Now it's time to see if you want what we have, or if we just have it
because I pushed hard and behaved as The Benevolent Dictator in setting
up something you live with but don't love. You can keep things as they
are and build on my efforts, or you can tear them down and return to the
days of information gatekeepers. When the new list owner takes over,
it's up to YOU to watch out for erosion of free speech and due process.
Don't assume someone else will do it for you.
I'll be around, but not in any official capacity. Don't use the
"list_owner@juno.com" address anymore try the generic address of
lomap-peak-climbing-request@lists.sierraclub.org and you should reach
the new owner, wmkirk@EARTHLINK.NET, as of today.
"Vy can't ve chust climb?", indeed. That's what I'll be doing. Bye.

- Steve Eckert

Unofficial (Private) Trips

Private trips may be submitted directly to the Scree Editor, but are not
insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra Club. They are listed
here because they may be of interest to PCS members, not because they
are endorsed by the PCS.

Mt. Hutchings

Peak:   Mt Hutchings (10785), Class-2
Date:   June 6-7
Maps:   Marion Peak (15 minute)
Trailhead:      Copper Creek (Cedar Grove, Kings Canyon)
Contact:        Siamak Navid (sia@sr.hp.com)
        (707) 577-4845 W
        (707) 537-9293 H
The peak is about a mile west of the trail. The climb looks like a
relatively easy one in a normal year. This year we will probably
encounter a fair amount of snow, therefore ice axes are required. The
trail starts fairly steeply at 5000 ft and climbs about 3500 ft to our
intended camp for Saturday night at Upper Tent Meadow. We will climb the
peak on Sunday and return to trailhead.

Williamson by William Again

Peak:   Williamson (14,375') class 3 (snow)
Dates:  June 12-14
Contact:        Bill Kirkpatrick (408) 293-2774         Wmkirk@earthlink.net
Co-contact: Alex Keith (650) 325-1091   akeith@crc.ricoh.com
Pack in to Anvil Camp on Friday.  Saturday we will hike to the top of
Shepard's Pass, across he Williamson Bowl, to the top of Williamson and
then back to Anvil Camp.  Sunday we return to the cars.  This will be an
arduous climb, through amazing country.  Expect lots of snow and ice.
The topo is Mt Williamson.

Climb-O-Rama '98

Peaks:  Tunnabora, Joe Devel, McAdie, Guyot, Hale, Chamberlin, Pickering,
Mallory and others
Dates:  June 27-July 5 or July 6
Contact:        Bob Suzuki, bobszk@bigfoot.com w: 510-657-      7555,  h:
        Steve Eckert, eckert@netcom.com 650-508-0500

If you have only one long vacation this summer, this is it! We think we
can do 14 peaks in 8 days, with only one day over 4000' of gain and no
day over 12 miles, most under 10 miles, entering and exiting at Whitney
Portal. We've got it down to 3 backcountry campsites, from which you
will have access to all 16 of the SPS list peaks in the Whitney area.
9000' of gain for the full week, and day trips to several peaks per day
will allow cutting back if you want to relax. Ice axe and crampons
required. You will need to sign a liability waiver which you can obtain
Also you will need to convince us that you know what you are doing
We have already secured two permits for 6 people each. The $50 cost for
both permits will be split among the people who go. Contact either one
of us for details or to reserve a spot: $10 non-refundable deposit when
you sign up, to be given back to you at the trailhead, less permit cost.

Palisade Basin

Peaks:  Your choice
Dates:  July 2-5 (Thu-Sun)
Map:    Mt. Goddard 15 min.
Contact:        Jim Curl, 415-585-1380, jimcurl@juno.com
Co-contact: Dot Reilly, der@gene.com
This is a non-led trip to the Palisade Basin. The approach over Bishop
Pass and Thunderbolt Pass is about ten miles, half of which is moderate
cross country terrain.  We will be camping together, but your climbing
itinerary is up to you.  Possibilities for peak climbing abound in this
beautiful area.  Be prepared for snow.

Trinity Alps Backpack

Peaks:  Various peaks
Dates:  July 3 - 5
Leader: George Sinclair (650) 941-2160  geosinc@aol.com
Avoid the heavy snowpack and mosquitoes of the Sierra with a visit to
the Trinity Alps. I went here last year at this time and the conditions
were great.

ABC:  Anarchist Brewer Climbers

Peaks:  Mt.  Brewer, North Guard, South Guard,
        Deerhorn, Francis Farquhar, West Vidette,
        Charlotte Dome
Date:   July 3-9 (Friday - Thursday)
Contact:        David Harris, harrisd@leland.stanford.edu
        (650) 725-8811
        John Bees, jbees@dri.edu, (702) 851-0949
Join a merry band of climbers for a week in the Northern Great Western
Divide. We are planning to share a campground, but go our separate ways
to climb everything from 2nd class slag heaps to fifth class walls. The
approach will give the opportunity for Deerhorn or one of the Videttes.
We'll make a base camp near East Lake, giving access to technical and
non-technical routes on Mt. Brewer, North Gurad, South Guard, and
Francis Farquhar.  Some of us may attempt the classic face of Charlotte
Dome on the way out.  Anything else in the vicinity is fair game too.
If you are looking for technical climbs, find your own rope partner.  If
you prefer 3rd class, you are welcome to join the contingent doing those
routes.  Be aware that this is an "anarchist" trip with no central
leadership except coordination of the permits and an opportunity for
good company in camp.

Oh My Goddard!

Peak:   Mt Goddard
Dates:  July 3-5
Contact:        Tim Hult Ph: (408) 970-0760 AFTER June 17th
Climb Mt. Goddard with Tim Hult over the long weekend.  Class 3 climb,
but a stiff hike in.  Space for 3 people

Kings Canyon Peakfest

Peaks:  Goat Mountain, 12,207'
        Kid Peak, 11,458'
        State Peak, 12,620'
        Dougherty Peak, 12,244'
        Marion Peak, 12,719'
        Kennedy Mtn, 11,433'
Dates:  July 3, thru July 10
Contact:        Debbie Bulger   408-457-1036
This week-long backpack will take us to three base camps. The peaks are
mostly second class. After ascending from the trailhead in Kings Canyon,
we will proceed in a counter-clockwise loop, both on and off trail,
climbing as we go. If the terrain, sun cups and cornices cooperate, we
will cross from Volcanic Lakes to E. Kennedy Lake on our way to Kennedy
Mountain. Ice ax required. Crampons strongly recommended. Long
weekenders (Fri-Sun) who wish to climb only Goat and Kid are welcome,
however preference will be given to those opting for the whole trip.

Mt. Ritter: The Annual Pilgrimage

Peaks:  Mt. Ritter (13,150'), Banner Peak (12,890')
Dates:  July 5-10, 1998
Contact:        Alan Ritter, jar@storz.com
                W: 314-225-7600 x5362 (7:30am-5:00pm CDT)
Not one to give up easily, I will return to my namesake peak for a sixth
attempt in July. We will meet at the Agnew Meadows trailhead on Sunday,
5 July, hike to Ediza Lake or nearby, and attempt Mt. Ritter on the
first nice day thereafter. Route will be the Southeast Glacier, Class 3
per Secor.  Ice axe and crampons required, given that Mammoth has seen
almost 400 inches of snow by 1 March. Assuming success on Ritter, we may try
neighboring Banner Peak a via the Ritter/Banner Saddle route, mostly
class 2, but with a bit of class 3 snow just below the saddle.  Success
on both peaks may leave us with time to explore the Ritter  Range and
surrounds, which is worth the trip even without the climbs.

Williamson by William Again

Peak:   Williamson (14,375') class 3 (snow)
Dates:  June 12-15
Contact:        Bill Kirkpatrick (408) 293-2774         Wmkirk@earthlink.net
Co-contact: Alex Keith (650) 325-1091   akeith@crc.ricoh.com
Pack in to Anvil Camp on Friday.  Saturday we will hike to the top of
Shepard's Pass, across he Williamson Bowl, to the top of Williamson and
then back to Anvil Camp.  Sunday we return to the cars.  This will be an
arduous climb, through amazing country.  Expect lots of snow and ice.
The topo is Mt Williamson.

Scotch on the Rocks

Peaks:  Lyell (13,115') and Maclure (?) class 3
Dates:  July 17-19
Contact:        Bill Kirkpatrick (408) 293-2774         Wmkirk@earthlink.net
Co-contact: Alex Keith (650) 325-1091   akeith@crc.ricoh.com
 Starting from Tuolomne Meadows, we will pack through the Lyell Canyon
on Friday.  We will summit Lyell on Saturday and, if conditions permit,
Maclure. The topo is Mt Lyell.  Be prepared for snow.  Permit for 6

Twin Peaks 12,240'

Peak:   Twin Peaks 12,240 class 3
Dates:  Jul 25 - Jul 26
Contact:        Debbie Bulger   408-457-1036
        Arun Mahajan    408-244-7912
Last year we climbed Virginia Peak. This year we are going back to get
Twin. The trail from near Bridgeport leads us through amazingly
beautiful country over Virginia Pass and into Virginia Canyon. I suspect
the wildflowers will be spectacular this year. Perhaps the exposure will
be equally spectacular. It may depend on the snow level.

Bear Creek Spire

Peak:   Bear Creek Spire (13,713 ft.), Northeast Ridge  Class 4
Dates:  July 25-26
Maps:   Mt. Morgan, Mt. Abbott, Mt. Hilgard
Contact:        Kai Wiedman (650)347-5234
        Cecil Ann    cecilann@earthlink.net
If you're ready to move beyond the typical PCS slog, this is the climb
for you.  We're looking for a few hardy souls willing to experience high
adventure, vicious exposure and the beauty of a classic line.  If you
can appreciate a knife edge ridge, clean solid rock, and can stomach the
spiralling abyss beneath your feet, please give us a call.

Clyde Minaret

Peak:   Clyde Minaret (12281') Class 4/5
Dates:  July 31 - August 2
Contact:        Peter Maxwell (408) 737 9770
By a few feet Clyde is the highest of the Minarets, that fabulous craggy
range visible from 395.  The trip is spread over three days (Friday
-Sunday) because the climb is likely to be a very long day.  We'll camp
at one of the Minaret Lakes and then spend all Saturday doing the peak.
Depending on which route is taken the difficulty is either Class 4 or
low Class 5.  Ropes and climbing gear will be needed, as will ice axes
and crampons - there is a large, steep snow field to cross to get to the
start of the climb.
This is not a beginner trip.  The actual number going will depend on who
is interested and their level of ability.  Interested experienced
climbers should contact me and I'll collect a list.  If you come, you'll
be expected to sign the standard liability waiver.

Mount Ritter

Peak:   Mount Ritter (13,143) Class-2
Dates:  August 8-9
Maps:   Mt Ritter, Mammoth Mtn (E)
Leader: Ron Karpel rkarpel@usa.net
        Co-Leader and Contact: Nancy Fitzsimmons
        (408) 957-9683
This is a private trip with ice axe and crampons. Previous experience
with ice axe and crampons are required. Saturday, we will start from
Agnew Meadows and hike to Ediza Lake. Sunday we will climb Mount Ritter
via the Southeast glacier route.

Bear Creek Spire & Mt. Abbot

Peaks:  Bear Creek Spire (13,720'+), Mt. Abbot  (13,704'); class 3, 4
Dates:  Aug 15-16
Maps:   Mt. Abbot 15 min
Contact:        Bob Suzuki, w: 510-657-7555,
        h: 408-259-0772,
        Nancy Fitzsimmons, w: 408-764-1761,
        h: 408-957-9683,
This weekend we'll attempt two of Moynier and Fiddler's 
"100 Best Climbs in the High Sierra." 
After an early Saturday morning backpack into
Treasure Lakes we'll tackle the class 4 northeast ridge and summit block
of Bear Creek Spire. Sunday's challenge will include ascending the steep
snow and loose rock of Abbot's north couloir. Climbing harness, rappel
device, helmet, ice axe and crampons required. Only climbers with the
requisite gear and experience will be considered.

Rodgers Peak 12,978'

Peak:   Rodgers Peak (12,978') Class 2/3
Dates:  Fri, Aug 21, thru Sun, Aug. 23
Contact:        Debbie Bulger (408) 457-1036
        Debbie Benham (650) 964-0558
This striking peak on the eastern border of Yosemite should offer
spectacular views to both the east and west. After a long backpack in
(roughly 16 miles) from the June Lakes Loop, Rush Creek trailhead,  we
will set up base camp near Rodgers Lakes. The exposed east ridge may be
a challenge for strong newcomers. We plan to stay together. Sunday we
pack out and drive home. Limited to 8.

Ten Days in Milestone Basin

Peaks:  Your choice
Dates:  Aug 29 - Sep 7
Map:    Mt.Whitney 15 min.
Contact:        Jim Curl, 415-585-1380, jimcurl@juno.com
Co-contact: Dot Reilly, der@gene.com
Join us for a fun trudge with huge packs over Shepherd Pass to spend a
long week in the Milestone Basin area.  The peak climbing potential is
vast and we currently have no set intinerary.  Climb along with us or on
your own, but be self-sufficient.  This is not a led trip.


Peak:   Mera Peak (21,200),
Date:   October 1998 (21 day trip)
Contact:        Warren Storkman
        4180 Mackay Drive
        Palo Alto, CA 94306
Trekking from Arun river through a seldom traveled route we experience
seeing villages and people not accustomed to westerners.  Both climb or
Trek is 21 days.  Cost $1880 - a non-commercial private trip.
Mera Peak Climb (21,200 ft.) Mera is a non-technical peak and one of the
finest vantage points in the Khumbu.  This breathtaking mountain
panorama includes no less than five of the worlds fourteen 18,000 metre
Kalapattar Trek (18,000 ft) looks down upon Everest Base Camp.

Trip Reports

Tahoe Trip

Over the Memorial Day weekend I organized a trip to Tahoe that consisted
of both Day Hiking and Peak Climbing people.  We camped at the Forest
Service campground at Fallen Leaf Lake - which had empty sites all
weekend.  Perhaps the weather and heavy snowpack kept many people away.
On Saturday we climbed Mt. Tallac by a route that ascended the "cross"
on the east face.  This involved a climb of over  3,000 feet, and
included crossing some very steep snow  near the top.  Ice axes were
required here.  Summit views were limited due to clouds.  Lake Gilmore
was completely frozen over. On the descent several of us enjoyed skiing
down slopes covered with spring snow of almost perfect consistency.
From Hwy 89, about 2 miles north of Camp Richardson, go west on Spring
Creek Road.  Follow it to near where it ends.  Begin hiking in a
south-southwest direction through trees and brush, climbing gradually up
to a ridge that descends down the northeast side of Mt. Tallac.  From
this ridge one should be able to look into a large bowl that sits below
the east face of the mountain. Where practical traverse into this bowl
and continue climbing up in a southwest direction until reaching the
base of the cross.  Over the Memorial Day weekend everything, except for
the part at the very beginning, was covered in snow.  As you climb up
the cross the going gets increasingly steep.  An ice axe is essential
here.   After passing the horizontal section of the cross the snow
becomes very steep.  Crampons and rope may be needed here depending on
snow conditions.  About half way up the upper section of the cross,
begin angling up to the right and look for a spot without a cornice to
pass through to the summit.  During our climb there were large cornices
directly above the cross.
On the descent one may go down the north face of the mountain about 300
feet to the top of a gully that will take one directly down to the right
side of the horizontal section of the cross.  This descent may be easier
than descending the climbing route.
If the cross contains little snow than the climb could be quite
different. I've only climbed it when there was snow.  It could be harder
without the snow.
On Sunday we drove to the northern side of the lake - about a 45 minute
drive via the Nevada side - and climbed Mt. Rose.  This was an easier
climb than Tallac, but it involved more walking as Mt. Rose is not as
close to the highway as one might expect.  In order to keep everyone
together, no skis were used on this climb, which was unfortunate because
there is some great skiing on the way into and out of Mt. Rose.  This
peak involved a climb of slightly less than 3,000 feet.  The final ridge
leading to the summit was exposed to a severe wind which almost knocked
us down.  The summit of Mt. Rose is marked by a wood sign. On Monday we
awoke to rain and soon after everyone headed for home.

- G. Sinclair


With snow and rain to the left of me and snow and rain to the right of
me well you get the picture. I abandoned my drive to Shasta.
I ended up stealth biving right out side the gate and was the first one
in the parking lot at 7AM or so Saturday morning as the Ranger was
wondering (I KNEW!!!) just where did this guy spend the night!! A
distant good morning was exchanged as I drove by him slowly after
packing up my stove and stuff he was looking at as he pulled up to the
Storm damage was quite evident from the huge 5-10' piles of sand and the
many slide areas scarring the hillsides as well as the temporary looking
bridge (one car at a time??) spanning the creek across the entrance to
The route was about 15 miles and 5000 feet spanning the Chalone peak
trail back around to the High Peak trails past the reservoir where I
filtered water to re supply my bottles. (All water facilities are still
shut down in the part and various parking lots are stocked with 5 gal
water bottles placed by the NPS)
It was pretty green with many areas of beautiful blooms remaining with a
lucious scent of lilac almost overpowering on large portions of the HP
It had been a few years since I climbed up a pinnacle and since I
brought some rope and the raptor signs were down where I wanted to go I
did a small one  off the highest point in the part.  After having
glorious weather and slight wind (temps in the mid 70's) I dropped my
full big back-back  and enjoyed some watermelon with some folks I met on
the trail. I would estimate there are 1 to 2 weeks of blooming left-
maybe more if the precip keeps up-- the ground was still very moist with
still a lot of pools remaining inside the high pinnacles that I hiked
by. All in all a good detour and a great workout.

- RJ Calliger

Mt. Morgan

I was on the STS "telemania" trip last weekend. There will probably be a
more detailed report in TRACK, but here's some snow level information.
Saturday we skied from Virginia Lakes up toward Mt. Excelsior. Steep
boilerplate and fog turned back the summit seekers at about 12,000 feet.
Below 10,000, the corn snow was superb.
Sunday we skied Mt. Morgan south from near the summit all the way to
Rock Creek Lake. The top 1500 feet of the north face was icy with
patches of wind-packed powder. Below 12,000 feet the corn snow was
great. The road was plowed beyond the lake, but I don't know how far.
Monday we had rain and wet snow flurries at Sonora Pass, so most of us
headed home early. The snowpack at Sonora Pass looked about 8-10 feet

 Butch Suits

Casaval Ridge

A note on the conditions on the Casaval Ridge of Mt Shasta as
experienced by us on 23/24th May 98.
The forecast wasn't very good, but there was a break expected on
Saturday afternoon and there was another front forecast for Sunday
morning. Unsure what to do, and hoping to get some climbing in anyway,
about 10 PCS'ers led by George Van Gorden and Bill Kirkpatrick set out
towards Horse Camp. The ranger at Bunny Flat was turning back groups who
intended to do Avalanche Gulch as the route was living upto it's name
and a lot of point-releases were happening.
It was cold and foggy but there were still an amazing number of cars in
the parking lot and a lot of climbing parties. We trudged thru the mushy
snow in snowshoes till Horse Camp. Suddenly the sun came out and the
clouds parted to reveal a part of our ridge. We decided to continue on
the ridge till we got to about 9200 ft and set up camp on the relatively
flattish spots there. It snowed some and remained generally cool as we
dug platforms for our tents. I had a bivy bag, so Ron and Ted helped me
dig a trench. The plastic bladed snow shovel worked mostly well, except
when we reached the ice which had to be chopped with an axe. The clouds
continued to flirt with the sun till we fell asleep.
We woke up in the morning to the sound of snow and rain coming down
steadily on our tents. It was cold and wet and visibility was low. A
summit attempt in these conditions was inadvisable, so we packed up and
headed down. Ron led the way down, the way points on his GPS helped a
lot in getting us back to Horse Camp, especially at the point a few
hundred feet above Horse Camp where we had made an abrupt right turn
while heading up.
Interestingly, at Horse Camp, on the way up, we had run into Robert
Chang. Robert is a Bay Area local who summitted Ama Dablam last year and
had an article on that expedition published in the San Jose Mercury
News. Robert was on his 49th attempt of Shasta but had himself turned
around due to the bad climbing conditions.  El Nino hasnt loosened it's
grip on California just yet.
Climbers in our group to whom the summit of Shasta was denied this
Memorial Day were, George Van Gorden, Bill Kirkpatrick, Ahmad Zhandi,
Adrienne Van Gorden, Rick and Helena Verrow, Roger Crawley, Alex Keith,
Ted Raczek, Ron Karpel, Arun Mahajan.

- Arun Mahajan

Bear Creek Spire

Drove up Rock Creek Canyon road from Tom's Place, arriving at East Fork
around 8pm Saturday night, where the road is gated for the winter. Peter
Horvath & I geared up and set out under a full moon up the road,
stopping about 3 miles up to make camp on the north shore of Rock Creek
Lake.  We took our time breaking camp Sunday morning, hitting the road
around 11am.  Stopped for a couple yo-yo runs from the road down to the
lake shore through choice corn!  We continued up the canyon, crossing
several lakes and up a steep headwall to make camp at Treasure Lakes by
late afternoon.  As we slept, Jay Kumar showed up at our camp around
midnight to join us, skiing all 8-10 miles in by moonlight.
Monday morning, after some ice axe arrest practice, we set out around
9am for Bear Creek Spire.  Skied up past Dade Lake and across the huge
north facing bowl, ditching skis as the slope neared 45 degrees.  We
kicked steps up to the NW ridge, and dropped over onto the west face,
where we climbed snow to just beneath the Summit.  We climbed a short
steep snow pitch on belay, and a 50 foot pitch of low fifth class (in
ski boots & gloves!), both led by Jay.  After thrashing away snow on the
summit block in a fruitless attempt to find the register, we rapped off
some existing slings back to the west face snow slope.  As we made our
way down, the weather started to worsen and I came down hard with
altitude sickness. Peter & Jay helped me down to the skis with a couple
of belayed glissades, where I geared up while fending off nausea
attacks.  In the worsening weather, what was anticipated as an
exhilarating return ski through bowls of untracked corn, now became a
handicapped survival-turn struggle down steep wind crust ice in gale
force gusts.  Finally making it back to the tent I immediately crashed
inside while Jay got some hot soup going.  Shortly thereafter, my
symptoms faded and we sacked out early as the wind storm roared on.
The next morning we had some fresh powder to ski out.  The final 5-mile
stretch down the Rock Creek Canyon road from Mosquito flat was pure
coasting all the way!  We stopped again for a couple runs at Rock Creek
Lake, and made it out to the car just after noon.  After a relaxing hot
springs soak in the desert, I dropped Peter & Jay back at Tom's Place
and hit the road for the long drive home.  Big thanks to Peter & Jay for
looking out for me when I was sick as a dog!

- Pat Callery

Delenda Est Cartago

We had some trouble meeting, since the write-up said to meet at the Cafe
in Cartago the Ranch House Cafe is actually in Olancha, 2 or 3 miles
south of Cartago. We drove to the north end of Cartago and turned west
on a dirt road that crosses the aqueduct via a quite drivable bridge. We
went south roughly half a mile on the aqueduct access road and parked
off the road in a wide spot. 4WD vehicles can drive a bit further and
turn west again up a short spur road that leads to a use trail.
The use trail peters out where the pine trees start, and it's pretty
much up to you which sand you walk in. The terrain is clumps of plants
in loose soil, and washes might be slightly looser than ridges. We
headed more or less for the peak, angling left (south) because it looked
lower angle than straight up the draw (see way point RIDGE). There were
a few third class moves with packs before we broke through the rock band
to camp at 8400' (see way point CAMP). We came down to the south of this
band, bushwhacking a bit instead of doing 3rd class. It's possible there
is an easier way slightly north, and the campsites are bigger and
sandier over there (see way point ALTCAMP).
We followed the ridge up past some more great campsites around 9300' to
the saddle between Point 9921 and the Cartago plateau. Stay to the south
of 9921 but north of the other bumps, since the south drainage has very
steep sides. From the saddle, we angled up west-southwest, avoiding rock
faces well above us. At way point TRAVRS we thought we could see the
peak, but could not. Going through a minor saddle, we followed Mark
Adrian's GPS coordinates to a flat sandy area ringed by crags. From here
it's a 5-minute scramble to the top first on boulders under the west
face of the peak and then cutting left on third class with good holds to
the summit. There is no need for a rope, and we found several routes
with varying exposure.
The summit is in the southeast corner of the flat sandy area, and the
sandy area is distinguished by far fewer trees and a flatter surface
than we had seen in other areas. Approaching from the west, your
observations may vary! The summit area is the north wing of a small
L-shaped ridge, at least that's how it appears from the northwest. The
web version of this report has a scanned 7.5' map with pointers showing
our camp, the saddle, and the peak. I've included way points MUAH and
KERN below, picked off the map, just in case you wonder where those
little bumps are when you're on top of Cartago.
See way points CARTAG and MACART for my GPS entry and Mark Adrian's
entry. We were both sitting on the summit at the register, but the
readings are about 0.1 mile apart. The government can diddle the signal
by 100 meters, to prevent accurate missile targeting, and that's about
0.06 miles. It appears that Mark and I were there under different error
conditions so our readings are off by more than you would expect when
comparing coordinates from the TOPO! software to field observations.

- Steve Eckert


Scree is the monthly journal of the Peak Climbing Section of the Sierra
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Rock Climbing Classifications
The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing trips
for which you are qualified. No simple rating system can anticipate all
possible conditions.

        Class 1: Walking on a trail.
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