Home | Scree | Back Issues

Scree for January, 1998
=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
This is the EScree - the Electronic version of the Scree newsletter from
the Peak Climbing Section of the Loma Prieta Chapter of the Sierra Club.
It should be viewed or printed with a fixed-pitch font such as Courier.
=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
     This publication may not be posted on any public news group.
                  January, 1998   Vol. 32, No. 1
    Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 1/25/98.
=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Next general meeting (PCS meetings are the second tuesday of each month)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date:	Tuesday, January 13, 1998
Time:	8:00 PM
Program: Broad Peak, Pakistan

Hal Tompkins will present his slides from his 
successful expedition in July 1997 to Broad 
Peak, an 8000 meter peak in the Karakoram 
Range in Pakistan. Hal may be the first PCS 
member to accomplish climbing an 8000 meter 
mountain.

Location: Western Mountaineering Town & 
Country Village, San Jose

From 280: Exit at Winchester Boulevard, go 
East and turn right into the Town & Country 
Shopping Center across form the Century 
Theaters

From 880: Exit at Stevens Creek Boulevard, go 
North and turn right into the Town & Country 
Shopping Center

((PDF version of EScree has a drawn map here)) 
 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
By-laws & Operating Rules Meeting 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date:	Wednesday, January 14, 1998 
Time:	8:00 PM to 10:30 PM

Purpose: To determine if new versions of the PCS 
By-laws and Operating Rules were properly approved 
by the section.

Place: Home of Roger Crawley, 761 Nash Avenue, 
Menlo Park, 650-321-8602

Directions: Take the Menlo Park Willow Road Exit 
off Highway 101 towards Middlefield Road.  Pass 
Coleman  and Gilbert.  Turn right on Nash. My house 
is in the second block

Work has already been done by PCS members to make needed 
modifications to our By-laws and Operating Rules. At issue is 
whether our section properly approved the new versions of these 
documents.

The Section approved a By-law amendment at the October, 1997 
PCS meeting(Nov., 1997 SCREE, p1, "Sunset Clause Approved 
26:0"). The Loma Prieta Chapter EXCOM disapproved this 
amendment, probably because it stated that copies of the By-laws 
must be kept on file at the Chapter office.   

We will briefly discuss the Mountaineering committee Policy 
document of May 3, 1995. Anyone who wants to provide input 
into this process is urged to come to this meeting or express your 
opinions to Roger Crawley.  Thank you.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ed Viesturs in Person!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: 	Wednesday, February 18 
Time:	7:00 PM
Contact:	Tech Museum of Innovation 408-279-7150
Cost:	$20.00 Non-Members; $15.00 Tech Members

Ed Viesturs, who is the only person to summit Mount Everest 
seven times-five without oxygen, will speak at the San Jose Civic 
Auditorium as part of The Tech Museum of Innovation's lecture 
series. Ed tackled Mount Everest with a team of photographers to 
produce the upcoming IMAX film "Everest". His climb coincided 
with the disaster that claimed several lives in May 1996. His 
expedition is featured in the  September issue of National 
Geographic and is the subject of a PBS Nova special airing in 
February.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Earth Day 1998
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A Sense of Place: Bringing Earth Day Home

A steering committee has formed within the Loma Prieta Chapter 
to engage Sierra Club members in Earth Day 1998. This 
committee, plus other South Bay environmental groups, has 
chosen the theme, A Sense of Place: Bringing Earth Day Home. 
Using this theme, the coalition wants to show the connection 
between ourselves and our local environment.  Also the Loma 
Prieta Chapter  will use this event to reach out to organized 
religious groups. Together we want to work on our common 
concern for the planet. One of the models we will use is the 
"Green-Team," an environmental support group of 6 - 8 people 
wanting to "live more lightly" on the Earth. The groups meet in 
the  participants' homes for 5 weeks, using a workbook as their 
guide.

We are inviting all Activity Sections and Regional Groups to 
attend one of two meetings in early January.  At these meetings, 
we will discuss our preliminary goals for Earth Day '98, review 
some of the materials that are available for group use, see a 30-
minute video produced by the Union of Concerned Scientists 
(Keeping the Earth: Religious and Scientific Perspectives on the 
Environment) and set up an outreach plan to local religious 
communities.  We want a representative from each Section and 
Group. The two meetings will be identical to allow most people 
to attend at least one. We are encouraging all Loma Prieta 
Chapter members who are affiliated with a religious group to 
attend. The two meetings will take place at the Peninsula 
Conservation Center on January 12 & January 15 at 7 PM.  
Call the Chapter Office for directions or info, (650) 390-8494.

If PCS members have an interest in participating in Earth Day 
1998, please join us at these meetings.  The Chapter wants its 
offerings for Earth Day to reflect all aspects of our membership.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lost Coast Alert
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The King Range National Conservation Area, popularly known as 
the Lost Coast, is one of the most spectacularly beautiful 
stretches of coast in the world, as those of you who have visited it 
can testify.  The pristine quality of this area is being marred by 
the presence of off-road vehicles (ORVs) on the southern 3.5 
miles, known as Black Sands Beach.  ORVs cause considerable 
damage to the delicate coastal vegetation, create ugly tire tracks 
and scars, and cause  noise pollution.  ORV users frequently flout 
the closure at Gitchell Creek. The Bureau of Land Management 
is proposing to close Black Sands Beach to motorized vehicle 
use.  Well-organized ORV groups, backed by the ORV 
manufacturers,  have been bombarding the agency with letters of 
protest against the proposed closure. Hikers and backpackers, 
who visit the area in far greater numbers, need to make their 
voices heard.  Please take a few minutes to write to the BLM 
expressing your support for the proposed closure.

Address letters to
        Lynda Roush, Area Manager
        BLM Arcata Resource Area
        1695 Herndon Road
        Arcata, CA 95521

Although regular mail is the most effective way to make your 
views count, you can also contact Ms. Rouch by email at
        lroush@ca.blm.gov or by FAX at (707) 825-2301

 -- Submitted by John Wilkinson


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Official (PCS) Trips
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

PCS trips must be submitted through the 
Scheduler (see back cover for details). Trips not 
received from the Scheduler will be listed as 
PRIVATE, without recourse.


*** Pyramid Peak
Peak:	Pyramid Peak (9983'), class 2
Dates:	Sat. Jan. 17 - Mon. Jan. 19
Map:	Pyramid Peak 7.5 min.
Leader:	Palmer Dyal, H: 650-941-5321, Pdyal@msn.com
Co-Leader:	Wanted

This will be a moderately paced 3 mile snowshoe trip to 
climb a relatively easy peak in the Desolation Wilderness 
area southwest of Lake Tahoe. The elevation gain is about 
1000' per mile and we plan to camp at treeline.

We will have time to build snow caves on the first day and 
view the marvelous glaciated scenery of the whole Tahoe 
basin from the peak on the second day. There will be a 
choice of returning on Sunday or Monday depending on the 
weather, etc. A good trip for beginning climbers.


*** Annual Beginners Snow Camping Seminar
Dates:	Tues. Eves. Jan. 6th, Wed. Jan. 7th, Wed. Jan. 
14th; Weekend of Jan. 24/25 or Jan. 31/Feb. 1.
Leaders:	Marj Ottenberg 408-867-4576 or Chris 
MacIntosh 650-325-7841 .

A planned winter overnight trip in the Sierra can be 
wonderful or cold and miserable. A forced overnight due to 
storm, injury or equipment failure presents far more 
hazards in winter than in summer.  For the 25th winter, 
PCS (and STS) leaders present a snow camping seminar 
to help backpackers, climbers, and others enjoy winter 
sports safely and comfortably. Participants learn do's and 
don'ts of winter planning, clothing, food etc. as well as 
making emergency and non-emergency shelters in the 
snow, then put these skills into practice on a weekend trip 
to the Sierra ( traveling by skis or snowshoes. $40 cost 
includes 3 books and equipment maintenance.


*** Treasure of the Serra Padre
Peak:	Junipero Serra Peak, 5862 ft, Class 1
Date:	February 1st 1998.
Maps:	Junipero Serra 7.5'
Contact:	Arun Mahajan, arun@sentientnet.com,
(h) 408-244-7912, (w) 408-473-8029 
Co Contact: Bill Kirkpatrick. Home: 408-293-2447, Work: 
408-279-3450 wmkirk@earthlink.net

The native Americans called it Pimkolam Peak, it has also 
been called Santa Lucia Peak, and now goes by the name 
Junipero Serra after the venerable padre. At 5862 ft, it is 
the highest peak in the Santa Lucia  Coast Range. It is also 
the high point of Monterey County and the highest peak 
that you can get to in the Bay Area. Join us as we take a 
enjoyable and mildly strenuous (6 miles and 3900 ft gain, 
one way) tramp to this peak. There is trail all the way to the 
top. Carpool suggestions from Bay Area: Meet at the Carl's 
Jr. that is at the Dunne Avenue exit on 101 in Morgan Hill at 
7 am on Sunday, February 1. We will carpool from there. 
Non Bay Area People: Contact the leader for directions to 
the trailhead.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Notes and Requests
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

*** McKinley Redux

I'm looking for a qualified partner(s) for another attempt at North 
America's highest peak. After two trips on the mountain, I'm 
practically a "guide,"  which simplifies planning.

Qualified partners MUST possess high altitude experience above 
20,000 ft, multiday expedition experience, have the right cold 
weather gear or be willing to purchase it, have adequate vacation 
time, XC ski (or be willing to learn) and not snore. First time 
want-to-be's will not be considered. Send email or call me at 408-
970-0760 home, 408-543-3135 work.

  -- Tim Hult 


*** Items for Sale

'97 North Face Lunar Light Tent: 2 person, 3 season, under 5 lbs., 
full warranty, fully seam sealed, like new, used one night -- $150 
(retail $245). Boreal Flyers approach shoes: size 9 U.S.  men's, 
smooth soled sticky Fusion rubber, like new, used once to walk 
around the block -- $35. Garmont Sticky Weekend approach 
shoes: size 10.5 U.S. men's, very good condition, used for about a 
week in the Tetons -- $30 or $25 and a pint of good ale. Wanted:  
Size 10.5 Five Tennies.

  -- Jim Curl  415-585-1380


*** Advice on Pants Needed

Advice on pants would be appreciated.  I saw a pair of what I'd 
like at Western Mountaineering today for $269.00 (Marmot).I'd 
go for something cheaper, even used if it's high quality. No blems 
please.  Or I'd go for something more expensive if it's worth it. 
I'm looking for gortex or gortex-like material I can use on 
Aconcogua or winter mountaineering in the Sierra.

  -- Tony Cruz 


*** Crampon Quest

I'm looking for a used pair of strap-on flexible crampons for 
occasional use with my leather Raichle Mountain Guide boots. 

  -- Aaron Grossman 


*** Andes and Himalayan Expeditions

I am looking for climbers interested in a summer 1998 trip to the 
Peruvian Andes. My intention is to focus on some of the more 
technical routes in the Cordillera Blanca, but I'm open for 
discussion on other objectives.

I am also interested in joining a Himalayan expedition in 1998. If 
you are planning a Himalayan expedition and are in need of 
another team member, please call 415-309-0570 or drop me a 
line at P.O. Box 8757, Mammoth Lakes, CA 93546.

  -- Craig Clarence 


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Trip Leaders Wanted
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Becoming a PCS trip leader is easier than you probably think.  
The procedure was listed in the December SCREE. I am putting 
this notice in to emphasize that we can always use more leaders.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1998 Roster Update
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

It is still not too late for you to be listed in the 1998 PCS roster. 
See the December SCREE for the update form. If you don't have a 
December SCREE, you can obtain a copy form the PCS website 
whose URL is listed at the end of this SCREE.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CLIMBORAMA 1997
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

JULY 2-8, 1997

Climborama 97 was a decentralized affair.  Ten PCS climbers 
ventured into the Evolution region during the first eight days of 
July, and we all climbed various peaks with various combinations 
of partners during that time.  Charles Schafer and I (Jim 
Ramaker) climbed together all week, and this report covers the 
trip from our perspective.

DAY ONE -- HIKING IN

On Wed. morning July 2, Charles and I drove down to North 
Lake after spending a restful night at David Harris's condo in 
Mammoth.  David, Steve Eckert, and John Bees followed in 
another car -- they were hiking over Paiute Pass to climb Goethe 
on the way in, while Charles and I were heading over Lamarck 
Col. The Lamarck Col route is basically a trail rather than a 
cross-country route, even though it's not marked on the 15' map.  
Then only tricky part is finding where it leaves the official trail 
between Lower and Upper Lamarck Lakes.  We cut off at the first 
creek crossing, about 1/3 of the way from the lower to the upper 
lake.  Looking down on this section later on, we saw that there 
are actually two parallel trails leaving the main trail, with the 
second one cutting off about 2/3 of the way from the lower to the 
upper lake.  After less than a mile, the two trails join and proceed 
past some beautiful small lakes and up a long steep hillside to 
some barren slopes and plateaus above.  I got up near Lamarck 
Col around 4 and talked to some campers there, then decided to 
dash up Mt. Lamarck (13,417'), because Charles hadn't appeared 
yet. (He had a very heavy pack, his camera lens alone is the 
approximate size and weight of a brick).

Mt. Lamarck is easy class-2 and took 45 minutes round trip from 
the trail.  When I got down, Charles was there, and we hiked over 
the col (13,000'), across the Sierra Crest and into Kings Canyon 
National Park. Then it was down down down to the highest 
Darwin Lake at 11,800', where we arrived at 7 p.m.  Little did we 
know, but this wild, rockbound lake would be our home for the 
next three nights.  It was a wonderful place, with a few bivvy 
spots carved out of the rocks by climbers, and too high for any 
bugs.

DAY TWO -- DARWIN

Charles and I left for Darwin (13,830') at 7 a.m.  Thursday and by 
9 we were at the bottom of the gully leading up to the notch in 
Darwin's west ridge.  We passed the vertical section at the bottom 
of the gully by climbing a steep snow ramp on the right, then 
climbed mixed class-3 rock and frozen snow in the upper part of 
the gully.  We soon arrived at the notch, a very alpine place -- 
shady, windy, and icy.  We then shed our crampons, turned left, 
and started up the ridge toward the summit plateau.  It was 
harder than expected, with several class-3 sections and some 
careful route finding needed to avoid cliffs to the left and right. 
By 11 we were on the vast 1000-foot long summit plateau.

I'd been harboring secret hopes that maybe the famous Darwin 
summit pinnacle had fallen over in an earthquake or been 
dynamited by some merciful soul.  But halfway across the plateau 
it suddenly appeared, rearing up above the horizon like a 
grotesque nightmare, an unsteady stack of square blocks with a 
weird pointing finger formation on top, as if pointing the way to 
our doom. I didn't like the massive exposure around the pinnacle, 
and the two steep gullies leading over to it were filled with steep, 
soft, and unstable snow.  I climbed down the first one unroped, 
then retreated, sat down in a funk, and suggested we just forget 
about the pinnacle and go down.  But Charles was not to be 
denied.  He perused the situation from various angles, then 
figured out a way to set up a solid belay that would protect both 
snow gullies.

After more delay, I finally agreed to try it.  I tied in, climbed 
quickly down one snow gully and up the other, found a stance on 
the far side of the pinnacle, and belayed Charles over.  While I 
was rearranging the rope, he floated up the class-3 crack and 
hopped onto the summit without a belay!!  I followed suit, and we 
both found the last part of the pinnacle much easier than 
expected.  I'd been told to expect a tricky mantle with 1500 feet 
of exposure, but if you move as far to the right as possible before 
doing the mantle (more on the east side of the pinnacle instead of 
the southeast), you have a nice flat ledge below you and the 
exposure is more like 6 feet instead of 1500 feet.  As long as you 
fall off the mantle in an orderly manner, you'll land on that ledge. 
Since we found the descriptions of how to climb the pinnacle 
confusing, here is mine (don't read this if you want to preserve a 
little mystery): Stand on the edge of the plateau facing the 
pinnacle, and drop down off the plateau to your right.  Then go 
left and cross over the small saddle between the plateau and the 
pinnacle.  Descend a small gully on the left side of the pinnacle 
for about 40', then climb a similar gully to a stance on the far 
(east) side of the pinnacle (the two gullies form a "V").  From the 
stance, climb an easy class-3 crack to a ledge, then mantle onto 
the summit.

After climbing back to the plateau, we took a long break and then 
descended the mountain.  Back on the glacier around 5:30 p.m., 
Charles announced that we had to climb Mendel (13,691') today.  
I suppressed a groan, then led across the glacier to a prominent 
right-slanting snow gully near the bottom right center of Mendel's 
steep east face.  The snow was soft, steep, and carved into deep 
suncups, so that when you were standing in the bottom of one, 
the top of the next one was in front of your face.  We climbed 
about 500' on this happy terrain, then exited left onto a wide, flat 
ledge.  After about 50', this led us to another right-slanting gully 
that we climbed till it ended.  From there, we couldn't figure out 
the correct route on the wide face above, and since it was going 
on 7 p.m., we bailed for the day.

A strange kind of euphoric exhaustion overtook me as I 
descended the glacier to our camp -- we'd fumbled around a bit 
on one peak and run out of time on the second, but it had been a 
great, 13-hour day on some of the best alpine terrain in 
California.  The stars and the Milky Way were spectacular that 
night -- we had no moon for the entire week of the trip and I saw 
over a dozen meteors before drifting off to sleep.

DAY THREE: CENTURY DUO SOLVES MENDEL MYSTERY

Friday we decided to postpone our plans to hike over and join the 
rest of the group, and return to Mendel instead.  We retraced our 
steps up onto Darwin Glacier, up the 500' slanting snow gully on 
Mendel, across the 50' ledge, and up the second gully for about 
200' to our high point.  From there we traversed left on a second 
ledge system for about 100', which brought us to the large open 
scree bowl high on the east face of Mendel. At the top of the 
scree bowl is a cliff going all the way across the mountain, 
forming a vertical, 200-foot wall at the upper left, a smaller cliff 
across the middle, and a small headwall split by a couple of steep 
gullies on the upper right. Secor says to go up and left to a 
chimney, but we just didn't believe him, because the cliff in that 
area looks vertical and even overhanging. So we wandered up to 
the right, toward the only obvious weakness in the cliff, on the 
theory that Secor was wrong and the chockstone was really at the 
upper right, not the upper left.  My interest was piqued when I 
spotted a gully with a chockstone up there, and near it an old 
rappell sling.  I climbed up the gully and forced my way all the 
way to the summit ridge, only to find that it was very exposed on 
both sides, with big awkward blocks barring the way to the 
summit.

I retreated back to the steep boulders and scree, and discussed 
various theories with Charles.  It was after 12 noon by this time, 
and we weren't doing too hot on this damn mountain.  We still 
had no idea whether the elusive route was up to the left or right.  
We did some more wandering back and forth across the face, 
looking for the magic staircase that would deposit us on the 
summit plateau.  Finally I gave up, sat down, and told Charles it 
was time to go down.  But once again he wouldn't have it, and he 
wandered up and left toward an unlikely looking cleft just right 
of the 200-foot high cliff.

There was a chockstone there, in a square chimney marked by 
bright greenish-yellow lichen.  Instead of tackling the chimney, 
Charles assaulted a vertical 40-foot cliff to its right, working his 
way up bit by bit on what he claimed were plentiful holds.  From 
my vantage point several hundred feet below, the cliff seemed to 
be overhanging, and I waited for a scream, clattering rock, and a 
grim thud.  Instead I heard a yell of triumph, and there was 
Charles on the summit plateau at the top of the cliff.  I scrambled 
up toward him and he offered to belay me up the chimney.  The 
chockstone overhung a little bit and forced me out onto a smooth 
wall to the left, but with a top rope it was great fun. Although the 
exposure wasn't bad, I would call the chimney class four because 
of the awkward climbing on small holds.  I would climb it 
unroped on a good day, but I wouldn't like to downclimb it 
unroped.  A fall, while not fatal, would slam you onto some nasty 
sharp blocks. So that's the mystery of Mendel's east face -- just 
head for the square chimney on the upper left with the greenish-
yellow lichen, and bring a short rope (50' is plenty).

Charles and I strolled across the summit ridge to the top at 2 
p.m., for another hard-won summit.  Views of the central Sierras 
were again tremendous, and from the edge of the plateau we 
could see the large lakes of Evolution Valley and the huge dark 
peaks over in the Goddard area. Around this time Charles and I 
discovered that our combined ages add up to exactly 100 -- thus 
the nickname century duo.

We descended the chimney on belay, then downclimbed the 
steep, loose face and the steep snow gully, finally getting back to 
the safety of the glacier at 4:30.  An hour later, while descending 
the talus slope to our camp, I spotted two people a couple of 
thousand feet away, descending the slope opposite us on the way 
down from Lamarck Col.  Both were skinny, one silent, one 
constantly talking -- it could only be Kelly Maas and Kai 
Wiedman!  We met up with them at the lake, and had a good 
time visiting each others camps as we cooked supper and 
discussed the day just past and the day to come.  Kai and Kelly 
were in with two friends to do one of the Mendel couloirs -- 
possibly the premier technical ice climbs of the Sierras.  (They 
did the climb the next day, and found it to be a real thriller.)  
Finally Charles and I bade them goodnight and retired to another 
restful night under the stars.

DAY FOUR: A BEAUTIFUL BACKPACK

Saturday we hiked cross-country to rendez-vous with the other 
climborama climbers in McGee Canyon.  (Note: there are two 
McGee Canyons in the Sierras, and this is the southern one, near 
Mt. Goddard.)  With the early morning sun behind us, hiking 
down past the series of lakes in Darwin Canyon was 
exceptionally beautiful, with natural "gardens" of green grass, 
boulders, bushes, and flowers along the shores of the lakes. We 
crossed Darwin Bench and found a great staircase route down 
through some cliffs to the John Muir Trail below Evolution Lake.  
At that point the fun was over for a while -- the mosquitoes in 
Evolution Valley were ferocious, and the only solution seemed to 
be slather on the bug dope and keep hiking as fast as possible. 
We hiked up the trail to the far (south) end of Sapphire Lake, 
then started up the cross-country route over McGee Pass.  This is 
a nice pass to avoid the cliffs directly east of the pass, go south 
all the way to  the end of Sapphire lake and then angle back 
northwestwardly toward the pass, on a line between the pass and 
the magnificent peak of Mt. Huxley, which stands out in the 
middle of Upper Evolution Valley. At the top of the pass I spotted 
a person down in the trailless valley to the west, and it turned out 
to be Kalon Kelley, who was hiking out after camping with the 
climborama group.  After talking to him, Charles and I descended 
the valley and found the climborama camp at Middle McGee 
Lake about 4 p.m.  Camp was deserted except for Tim Hult, 
lounging in his screen-walled tent to escape the bugs.  Charles 
and I washed up, set up our tent, and took a welcome nap -- the 
only time in this seven-day trip we had time to do that.

Around 8 p.m., the rest of the group (Steve Eckert, David Harris, 
Rich Leiker, Don Martin, and Bob Suzuki) started wandering in 
from a very arduous 14-hour day climbing the Hermit (12,360') 
and Mt. McGee (12,969').  The Hermit has a technical pitch at 
the top that Bob Suzuki led at 5.7, while the route on McGee 
involved crossing a saddle and descending 1000 feet of loose 
scree on the way to the top, then re-climbing the same 1000 feet 
to cross the saddle again on the way "down."  This was the one 
real climborama evening of the week, with all eight of us 
cooking, talking, and camping together in a vast flat sandy area 
next to the lake.  It was another cloudless evening and many of us 
slept out under the stars.

DAY FIVE: THREE VARIATIONS ON THE GODDARD THEME

Sunday the group divided up again, with David Harris, Rich 
Leiker, and Bob Suzuki joining Charles and me to do Goddard.  
Our goal was Starr's buttress on the northeast side of the peak -- 
"an interesting route on an otherwise boring mountain," as Secor 
describes it.

Our plan was to hike back over McGee Pass to the John Muir 
Trail, drop our packs near Sapphire Lake, hike up the trail to 
Wanda Lake, then head cross-country to the foot of Mt. Goddard 
near its small northeast glacier.  We dropped our packs next to 
the JMT about 9 a.m., then crossed the saddle west of Wanda 
Lake and gradually descended southwesterly into the Davis Lake 
basin, with Mt. Goddard looming above us ever higher, blacker, 
and more threatening.

At 12:30 we finally arrived at the bottom of Starr's Rib, which is 
the north ridge of peak 12,960+ on the 15-minute map.  The first 
part of the rib was steep class-3, with strange porcelain-like rock 
with smooth rounded holds.  Above that, the buttress has three 
more sections, all of them with very loose rock -- a long almost 
level section, a steep part that shoots up several hundred feet, 
then a final long sidehill traverse that leads to the long and easy 
east ridge of Goddard.  At the start of the flat section, I spotted an 
exit onto the glacier to our right, and asked if I could go and 
climb it.  Bob said okay, but no one wanted to join me, so I 
headed off alone.

Secor's photo on page 223 shows this glacier as a rather 
depressing scrap of snow streaked with rockfall.  But in the first 
week of July it was a generous glacier, with a steep snow couloir 
above it leading all the way to the saddle between Peak 12,960+ 
and Goddard, and gentle snow slopes below it leading down past 
the bottom of Starr's buttress.  The steep part of the couloir 
looked like no more than about 100 feet, and I figured I could 
handle that.  I climbed up and right on the glacier, rested a 
minute, then headed up the couloir.  As the walls closed in it got 
steeper and steeper until it was well over 45 degrees -- wow, I'd 
never been on snow this steep.  Front-pointing and using the pick 
of my axe, I felt secure, but what if I slipped?  I started climbing 
faster and faster, and the couloir went on and on.  Finally, after 
more than 500 feet of steep snow, I flopped onto the scree at the 
top exhausted.

After a few minutes I started up the class-2 slope to the summit, 
running into Kalon Kelley for the second time in two days in the 
middle of nowhere.  He was descending after a solo climb from 
Muir Pass.  I summitted at 3 p.m., then waited for an hour for my 
four buddies to finish climbing up from Starr's Buttress.  We 
relaxed on the summit for an additional hour, enjoying the 
tremendous views for which this isolated peak is justly famous.  
A weird lethargy overtook us -- a hard descent and miles of 
rugged cross-country terrain stood between us and our camp, but 
it seemed better to just lie around on the scree at 13,568'.  Finally 
we shouldered our daypacks and started down.

After a debate about the descent route, we decided to go down 
Starr's buttress.  The sidehill section near the top went okay, 
though one of us set loose a tremendous rockfall, the kind that 
raises clouds of dust and clatters and rumbles down into the void 
for over 30 seconds.  Luckily we were traversing and spread out, 
so it was no threat to anyone.  At the top of the steep section, I 
spotted a exit gully descending steeply to the left down to a snow 
couloir and then down to the glacier.  Soft snow sure looked 
better than this hideous loose brown rock, and I got permission to 
check it out.  The rock was loose class 3, and the snow couloir 
below it was steep, but not as steep as the one I'd gone up. Soon I 
was down on the low-angle part of the glacier, urging the others 
to follow me.

They reluctantly agreed, but as Bob was descending the snow 
couloir, someone above knocked loose another rockfall, and two 
soccer-ball-sized boulders came thundering down the gully 
toward him.  With his usual studied calm, Bob waited till the 
boulders drew near, then dodged in between them.  A close call.  
Finally we were all down on the glacier, and after an easy walk 
down the snow, we arrived back at the bottom of

Starr's Buttress at 6:30.  Thus we really did three different routes 
on Goddard:

1. The "esthetic" and by far the fastest route, up the clean class-3 
rock a the bottom of Starr's buttress, across the glacier, and up the 
steep snow couloir.  This route of course will vary widely 
depending on snow conditions.

2. The "traditional" route -- all the way up Starr's buttress on 
loose class 2-3 rock.

3. The "paranoid" route (the way we descended), which avoids 
the steep  snow above the glacier by going down the upper part of 
Starr's Buttress, and avoids the steep rock lower down on the 
buttress by going over onto the glacier. From the bottom of the 
buttress, we got water and started the long uphill slog across the 
talus to Wanda Lake.  The alpenglow hit as we crested the saddle 
west of the lake, and the entire lake basin and even the air itself 
seemed suffused with soft pink light.  From there it was down the 
Muir trail to our packs, then down some slabs to a flat sandy area 
at the south end of Sapphire Lake, where we set up camp.  It was 
9 p.m., for a 14-hour day, and incredibly, for David, Rich, and 
Bob, their second 14-hour day in a row.

DAY SIX : A COL FROM HELL

Monday our plan was up and over the Sierra Crest via the 
Haeckel-Wallace Col (except for David, who departed for 
Lamarck Col).  We left camp at 8:30 a.m.  and hiked up into the 
very beautiful and nearly untouched alpine valley just east of 
Sapphire Lake, enjoying the small lakes and meadows, strange 
rock formations, and excellent views of Mts. Huxley, Warlow, 
and Fiske just to the south.  We climbed higher into more austere 
alpine terrain of talus, snowfields, and partially frozen lakes, then 
reached the bottom of the 1000' scree gully leading up to the col 
at noon.  The scree gully was very steep and loose, and at one 
point part of the group had to take cover while two of us climbed 
up ahead -- there was just too much rockfall for the four of us to 
climb at the same time.

After two hours in the gully, with time out for breaks and 
whining, we reached the col at 13,000'.

After a break to eat and put on crampons, we walked over to the 
base of Haeckel (13,435') as dark clouds moved in from the 
north.  The climb up Haeckel from the south is challenging class-
3 but short -- in fact it leaves you wishing it were a lot longer 
because the climbing is quite interesting.  The best route starts 
about 100' below the south ridge of Haeckel and angles gradually 
up toward the ridgeline, aiming for a slot about 10 feet below the 
summit.  In 30 minutes we were on top, but just as we started 
relaxing and enjoying the views, we heard the rumble of thunder 
from the approaching storm and turned to descend.

Back down on the snowfield at 4 p.m., Charles and I discussed 
whether or not to do Wallace (13,377) (Bob and Rich had already 
climbed it).  We were pretty tired and it was a long way down to 
where we wanted to camp, but on the other hand, neither of us 
had done it and the storm seemed to be breaking up.  The 
argument "How long will it be before we're this close to it 
again?"  easily won out, and we started up the snow that led 
almost all the way to the top.  Some class 2-3 scrambling above 
the snow took us to the summit, which is an uncomfortable pile 
of huge thin slabs standing on end.

Charles worked on his photography for awhile, and after a rest, 
we descended and retrieved our packs.  At 7 p.m. we started 
following in Rich's and Bob's footsteps down to our meeting place 
at Midnight Lake, 2000 feet below over complex terrain.  We 
were assaulted by bugs on the ridge above Midnight Lake, and 
we finally spotted Rich's tent and pulled into camp at 9 p.m.  
After supper I drifted off to sleep with that deeply pleasurable 
feeling you get on the last night of a long and wonderful climbing 
trip.

DAY SEVEN -- HIKING OUT

Tuesday morning we got up at 5 a.m. and fled just as the bugs 
were waking up at 6.  With a break for breakfast on the trail, we 
got down to Lake Sabrina at 10, watched the fishermen on the 
dam, cleaned up, and headed off to the Bishop Sizzler and home.

 -- Jim Ramaker


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"We slept like babies.  We woke up every two hours and cried."
     -- Todd Skinner, describing life at 19,500' on the Trango Tower
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Langley and Tyndall 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

JULY 4, 1997 Mt. Langley

This trip to Mt. Langley was billed in Scree as a beginner peak-
climbing trip. The trip proved very popular, as I had more sign-
ups than I had space. The weather could not have been better; 
sunny and warm with no clouds. The only thing marring the trip 
was a moderate mosquito problem at the cotton wood lakes. After 
a brief (less than 3 hours) hike from the trailhead, we camped at 
the cottonwood lakes 4 and 5 area, just below Army Pass on 
Saturday night. We started hiking at 7 AM Sunday morning. As 
the group was large (8 people) and contained climbers of widely 
varying experience, we took 5 hours to reach the top. Everyone 
made it, including some people that I frankly had doubts about 
earlier in the day. We enjoyed fantastic views at the summit. I 
think that from the summit of Langley, all the 14ers can be seen 
except Shasta! It took us 3 hours to get down to camp. Everyone 
reported that they had enjoyed the climb and the superb weather. 
There was some brief, and I do mean brief, swimming in the lake 
by a number of brave souls, as the water was very cold. In fact 
Alex seemed to defy gravity by being able to exit the water 
seemingly as fast as he had entered! It looked like someone was 
fast-reversing a video of him diving into the water. We returned 
to the cars early the next day after a short hike out. This is a very 
enjoyable and picturesque area to be in and I recommend it for 
climbers of all abilities. Trip participants: Deirdre Conley, Juan 
Vera, John Cordes + Gerard (a summer intern at John's 
company), Dwight Goehring, Nancy Stevenson, Alex 
Sapozhnikov.

Mt. Tyndall JULY 26, 1997

This peak was climbed in a weekend by myself and Alex 
Sapozhnikov, the only other trip participant. This trip was listed 
as long, strenuous and requiring one to go ultra-light, so I guess 
these tough trips do not appeal to many people. We traveled 
ultra-light, so that meant no stove, no drinking cup, no pots, no 
bowls, no silverware, no water filter (just Polar Pure), no rope, 
no harnesses, no ice ax, no crampons, no pro, well, you get the 
idea. It is easier to list the stuff we took, instead of the stuff we 
left behind. And, since the weather looked good, we had no tent 
or bivy sacks. I think my pack weighed 14 lbs. This light weight 
made for glorious hiking. This para-military death-march left the 
car at 8:30 and  reached the top of Shepherd Pass 8 hours later. I 
reported that it felt like I had not done anything that day at all., 
due to how light my pack was. We scrapped the idea of knocking 
off the peak that evening, as Alex had a bit more weight than I, 
and he said he felt as though he HAD done something that day. 
Also, we were not sure how long it would take us to do the climb. 
The next morning we started at 4 AM and after some brief class 3 
at the top, we signed in at the summit register and were back 
down at camp in a leisurely 5.5 hours. We were at our car by 5 
PM. Afterwards, although Alex appeared to be partially dead, he 
said he would like to do two of these type of trips per month to 
stay in shape! By the time we got home, at about 1 AM, I had 
started to feel some of the affects of the 7000' gain-loss, 26 mile 
round-trip. Going light - how sweet it is!

  -- Both trip reports by Chris Kramar


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Whitney & Russell
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

AUGUST 15, 1997

Five of us met at Whitney Portal on the morning of Friday, Aug. 
15 to attempt Mt. Whitney (14,494') and Mt. Russell (14,086').  
The group included Arun Mahajan, David Shaw, Bob Suzuki, 
and co-leaders Charles Schafer and myself (Jim Ramaker).  We 
hiked up the north fork of Lone Pine Creek, starting at 10 a.m. 
and getting a morning wake-up on the short exposed section of 
the Ebersbacher Ledges.  We had lunch at Lower Boy Scout Lake 
and pushed on to Iceberg Lake at 12,600', arriving in a hailstorm 
around 4:30 after a gain of 4200'.  We got our tents up and the 
weather slowly cleared to a beautiful cool breezy alpine evening.  
The cool breeze sent us to bed shortly after 7, so we had one of 
those long sleeps you sometimes get on PCS trips.

Saturday we were up at 6 -- Bob and Charles to do the 1500-foot, 
5.7 East Face of Whitney, and Arun, David, and I to do the 
Mountaineer's route. The three of us cruised up the Mountaineer's 
route with no problems, avoiding the scree and climbing the 
sandy class 2-3 ledges on the way up to the notch.  From the 
notch we climbed the wide chute about 50 feet past it on the left, 
climbing carefully to avoid the ice flow and the small icy patches 
in the chute.  About 9:30, after 2 1/4 hours of climbing, we 
stepped from the mountaineering world to the tourist world of the 
plateau.  It was a beautiful calm morning, and after a long rest on 
the summit, we departed about 11 and arrived back in camp at 
12:30. This climb seemed easier than when I did it last year -- it 
is definitely not one of those all-day PCS epics, though it's still a 
sporty and interesting climb in spectacular surroundings.

While the three of us relaxed all afternoon at Iceberg Lake, Bob 
and Charles were putting in a long, exciting day high above us.  
They got a bit off route above the Fresh Air Traverse, and had to 
downclimb over 100' to find the correct crack.  Above that, they 
saved time by climbing unroped on some of the class 3-4 pitches, 
and summitted at 2 p.m.  After that they hiked a mile and 700 
vertical feet down the Mt. Whitney trail to bag Mt. Muir 
(14,015).  Then it was back up to 14,500 and down the 
Mountaineer's route, finally arriving back in camp at 7:30 p.m.


Around this time we had a fascinating visitor drop by our camp 
a world-class mountaineer from Bulgaria named Val Trenev.  He 
was helping lead a coed group of about a dozen teenage Explorer 
Scouts, and told us off-handily of some of his mountaineering 
exploits.  He'd climbed the north faces of the Eiger and the 
Matterhorn, done a first ascent in the Torres del Paine, skied the 
Whitney Mountaineer's route in one day in winter, and so forth.  
And he was no story teller -- before he'd dropped by, we'd 
watched him cruise unroped up a 100' vertical cliff above our 
camp, which he later casually dismissed as "only 5.8+". Suitably 
humbled and charmed by this mountaineering demigod, we 
washed our dishes and slunk off to bed.

Sunday was Russell day, and the plan was to hike down to Upper 
Boy Scout Lake and climb the East Ridge from there.  We made 
good time, packing up our camp, hiking down, setting it up again, 
and leaving for the climb by 9 a.m.  I'd forgotten how painful the 
scree slope leading up to Russell is steep, loose, and unrelenting 
for a full 1500'.  At 11 we finally stepped onto the strange desert-
like plateau at 13,000', and strolled over to the Russell-Carillon 
saddle.  The spiry East Horn of Russell glowered down at us, and 
our mood was not lifted when we ran into two climbers on a 
CMC trip who'd just turned back on the East Ridge because of 
the exposure.  After some minor procrastination, we started on 
the ridge at 12. Right at the beginning there's a knife-edge section 
with some narrow upright slabs cross-wise to the ridge, and we 
got our first taste of the vast exposure on both sides of the ridge 
as we did some awkward straddling moves over the slabs.  After 
that, the ridge rises steeply toward the East Horn (not to be 
confused with the East Summit farther on), with the only possible 
route going up a steeply sloping slab with some parallel cracks 
high up on the right side of the ridge.  The slab looks frightening 
to climb unroped, but take heart, this section, like most of the 
East Ridge, is not as bad as it first appears.  One of the cracks up 
on the slab is a knee-deep trough that we strolled up in almost 
total security.  And the rock here, like almost everywhere on the 
ridge, is solid, with fairly frequent handholds and a rough texture 
that gives excellent friction.

After we passed the East Horn, the East Summit came into view 
about 500' away, and this section is the hardest part of the climb.  
We climbed briefly on the knife-edge, but most of the time on 
slabs and ledges 10 to 20' down on the right.  This section 
requires total concentration, as the exposure on the right is 
hideous and a slip could be fatal.

But again, take heart -- you're always on slabs or ledges on an 
inclined "shelf" with good holds, and not on a vertical wall 
hanging your butt out over the void.  And all of the actual moves 
are class 3 or easier if you find yourself struggling in terror on 
tiny holds or on a smooth inclined slab, back up and look for an 
easier way, because you're probably off route.  Bill Kirkpatrick 
describes the East Ridge of Russell as like climbing on the 
curved upper part of the wall of a bathtub, and that's a good 
description (there's even a pool of water at the bottom of the wall, 
except it's 1000 feet below and filled with icebergs). As the ridge 
rises toward the East Summit, we kept traversing at the same 
level instead of following it up, aiming for the bottom of a 
nebulous gully about 50' below the east summit.  Once we 
reached that point, the scary part of the climb was over.  We 
climbed up almost all the way to the East Summit (class 3, but 
not exposed at all), then traversed another 500' or so over to the 
West Summit on sidewalk ledges about 20' down on the right 
side of the ridge.  It's best to go a few feet past the West Summit 
on the ledges before climbing up to it.

It took an hour for the five of us to traverse the 2000-foot long 
ridge a smaller party that didn't stop to rest and BS could do it 
much more quickly.  We relaxed on the summit for 40 minutes or 
so, reading the register and admiring the views of peaks near 
(Whitney, Williamson) and far (Great Western Divide, 
Palisades).  Around 1:30 we retraced our steps, or tried to -- at a 
couple places we went slightly lower or higher than on the way 
up.  By 2:30 we were back on safe ground at the Russell Carillon 
saddle, celebrating our triumph.  We then did the 20-minute 
class-2 scramble up to the summit of Carillon (13,552'), and took 
a long break.  Bob wanted to climb Mt.  Tunnabora (13,565'), a 
mile away to the north across the Tulainyo Lake basin, and I 
agreed to go with him.  Arun, David, and Charles had had enough 
and departed for the lowlands.

Around 4, Bob and I dropped down off the saddle (a 500' descent, 
class 2 if you zig-zag on ledges, class-3 if you go straight down) 
and strolled across the Tulainyo Lake basin on boulders and 
deeply suncupped snow. This basin, home to the highest named 
lake in the United States, is a silent, lonely, and beautifully 
peaceful place. The climb up Tunnabora was an easy class-2 
scramble, just like Carillon but a bit longer.  We summitted at 5 
and enjoyed tremendous views.  To the north were the Palisades, 
Mt. Williamson, and an impressive, seldom visited cirque at the 
head of George Creek canyon.  To the south was the spectacular 
ridge on Russell we'd just climbed, with its tiny shelf of slabs and 
ledges atop a vast vertical wall. 

After suitable celebrations on our third summit of the day, Bob 
and I headed home through the waning light.  We powered 
straight up the boulders to the Russell-Carillon saddle, then raced 
down the boulders and scree to camp, dropping 2000 feet in 40 
minutes, and arriving at 7 p.m. Like Iceberg Lake the night 
before, Upper Boy Scout Lake was a popular camp, with about a 
dozen or so tents set up.  A neighboring woman dropped by to 
wait anxiously for her eight friends to come down from Whitney, 
and they finally staggered in exhausted about 8:30.  A full moon 
rose over the jagged north ridge of Thor's Peak, and Bob and I 
stayed up for awhile talking, savoring the last hours of a 
spectacular day in the mountains.

Monday we strolled down the canyon and got briefly lost on the 
Ebersbacher Ledges, but still made it to the cars in 2 1/2 hours.  
The traditional post-climb lunch at the Bishop Sizzler brought 
our adventure to a close.

 -- Jim Ramaker


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tinker/Granite Traverse
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

DECEMBER 19, 1997

No one showed up for the Tinker/Granite traverse on Saturday. 
(I'm sending a blind copy of this msg to the 6 who were signed up 
in case I missed one of them in the parking lot - several sent 
email letting me know they were dropping out, but I had already 
left town.) Jim Curl stayed in the Donner area and reported ice in 
the morning and a storm in the afternoon... so the cancellations 
were probably a good call. I, of course, would have had to beg off 
as leader since my bindings were broken and I was pretty tired 
after walking out from Excelsior. The ridges visible from 
ASI/Sugar Bowl had rocks showing.

It turns out we had a nice climb of Excelsior on Friday 12/19 
(after I broke a ski binding on Thursday and continued on 
snowshoes). There was some great powder around Frog Lake 
(10500') but mixed windslab and bare 2nd class rock on the 
ridges to 12,446' (better for glissading than for skiing - I got down 
faster than Jim did ). It snowed all day Thursday but Friday was 
perfectly clear. By Friday night the snow down at Virginia Lake 
was already crusting up. The wind on the final summit ridge was 
terrible, but no clouds. I've been packed for this trip every 
weekend this month, and since every weekend has a storm Jim 
Curl and I went mid-week to trick the weather!

It was great to be "way back" the day after a storm, cutting fresh 
tracks with no one else in the area. Daytime high temp was 
around 20, nighttime low  was 0 according to my new minimum-
reading thermometer (which Taylor Instruments finally replaced 
after Campmor sold me a regular thermo in a min-reading box 
and could not understand my complaint). Aside from the broken 
ski binding, my OR gaiters blew a buckle, my snowshoe bindings 
popped a rivet, one of my car headlights went out, and we STILL 
had a hell of a good time.

BTW, Sugar Bowl told me on the phone that you could get a one-
way lift ticket for backcountry skiing. They said it was the 
Lincoln lift. Well the Lincoln lift is apparently NOT accessible 
from a car - you have to buy a $42 lift ticket to ride the gondola 
over to some other lift that drops you into the Lincoln lift. The 
gondola operator said the Judah lift (separate parking lot closer to 
ASI) was the ONLY place to get the $10 backcountry lift ticket. 
Has anyone done this recently?

 -- Steve Eckert


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Unofficial (Private) Trips
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Private trips may be submitted directly to the Scree Editor, 
but are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra 
Club. They are listed here because they may be of interest to 
PCS members, not because they are endorsed by the PCS.


*** New Year's Resolution
Peaks:  	Mt. Stanford (N) 12,838, Mt. Morgan (N) 13,005, class 2/snow
Dates:	2-4 Jan. 1998 (Fri.-Sun)
Maps:	Mt. Morrison, Mt. Abbot, Casa Diablo, Mt. Tom (15' topos)
Contact:	Steve Eckert  650-508-0500
Co-Contact: Craig Taylor 

Sure, you could do these peaks in the summer. But can you do 
them in the dead of winter? I'm not sure either, but it's going to be 
fun trying. If the weather gives us a break, that is. The views 
should be stunning! We'll start from the Sno Park at Rock Creek 
for an eastern approach to both peaks. The first day will be 
snowshoe or ski travel to establish a base camp at Hilton Creek 
Lakes. We may move camp toward Davis Lake the second day 
(depending on snow and the group's strength). Buy, rent, or 
borrow an avalanche beacon and a shovel, in addition to ice axe 
and crampons. You'll need either skis or snowshoes - skis will 
work best for the approach, snowshoes may work best for the climb.

NOTE: By starting from Rock Creek (instead of Hilton Creek) we 
have a little more mileage but a lot less elevation gain on the first 
day. If the road is not plowed, we'll divert to Hilton and grunt up 
past Davis Lake that way. This is not a beginner's trip. To sign 
up, send email to  with recent snow 
climbing experience. Please indicate what group gear 
(tent/stove/car) you have to offer, whether you prefer snowshoes 
or skis, and whether you would go in marginal weather.


*** Bear Valley Peak Bag and Randonnee Ski Instruction Trip.
Peak:	To be decided by group and instructor.
Dates:	Jan. 5-6
Contact:	Rich Calliger
Map:	N/A
Gear:	Full winter gear required. Ice axe and 
crampons should be in car. (Along with car tire-chains!!!)

Location:	Bear Valley is between Tahoe and Yosemite 
Administration: Liability waivers required to be 
signed as well as sign-in/off the trip. Mt. 
adventure waiver will be signed as well.

I have decided to take the peak-bagging ski mountaineering 
plunge (oh- there's a pun!) and want to take some semi-
private lessons as well as climb a peak on skies so I have 
talked with a Pro at Mountain Adventure up at Bear Valley. 
Day 1 is basic ski instruction at $55 day beginner package 
including rental and lift ticket. The 2nd day will climax with 
a negotiable peak bag trip in the back country which 
includes ski instruction and practice for $95.

Three or more are need to drive the price down to the $55 
and $95 level. If you are interested page me ASAP at 
510.659-7546 or email. A hostel is available for $22/night 
or I have snow-camped near Bear there are a ton of places. 
I was thinking Sunday-Monday or so- to avoid crowds and 
get a better discount. These prices are non-refundable but 
transferable and deposit is required. (This is a NON-
COMMERCIAL trip announcement so please keep the 
flames @ home , but if you have done something 
like this and know the idea is a bad one-or have 
suggestions let me know off-list-- thanks) We are also 
planning a winter ski-trip up White later in Jan. so this is a 
good time to get started!

Check out:   http://www.mtadventure.com


*** Mount Wheeler, Nevada
Peak: 	Mount Wheeler(13,000)
Dates:	Jan. 16-20, 1998
Contact:	Pat Ibbetson, Tony Cruz, Rich Calliger	
	Info line  707-234-7331

What: Winter ascent of Wheeler (13,000+) then guided tour 
of the caves before heading home. ($4)

Why: Its beautiful, it's cold, there's no bugs or bears or 
crowds, it's a challenge and IT'S THERE!

Where: GB National Park.  GB has the distinction of being 
Nevada's ONLY national park. It was established as the 
Lehman Caves National Monument in 1922 and is over 
77,000 acres in size. Also- the GB Park has Nevada's 
ONLY glacier as well. GB is located in eastern Nevada.

We will probably sample The Outlaw, a highly recommend 
restaurant in Baker, where purportedly they won't "let you 
leave hungry".

Climbing Plan:

Day 1:  Drive to Great Basin NP.  Find the proper canyon 
and drive as far up as we can.  Roads are open, but the 
NPS doesn't maintain. Snowlevel and downed trees 
determine how far up we start. Camp where are able to. 
(Meeting place to be determined).

Day 2:  Climb Quartzite peak using the canyon to the 
south, camp in the saddle north of quartzite.  Snowshoes 
will be needed in the canyon where there will be up to 6 feet 
of snow in the shadows of the ancient bristlecone pine 
forest.  Snowshoes will not be needed once we are above 
treeline, as the winds of the great basin are so fierce that 
the alpine country is either blown completely snow free or 
rock hard.  Either way crampons or shoes work fine.

Day 3:  Climb Jeff Davis and Wheeler Peaks.  This is just 
one mountain, east and west summits respectively.  This is 
the highest mountain in Nevada. Descend back to car.

Day 4:  Guided tour of Lehman Caves.  Drive home.


*** Coneheads atop Ventana
Peak: Ventana Double Cone, 4853 ft,    Class 2
Dates: January 24, 25 1998. 
Maps: Big Sur 7.5' and Ventana Cones 7.5'.
Contact: Bill Kirkpatrick. Home: 408-293-2447, Work: 408-279-3450

Meet at Botcher's Gap (2000 ft) Campground in Big Sur on 
Saturday morning, January 24; pack about 6 miles to Pat 
Springs Camp (3800 ft). We will start Sunday morning at 
dawn for the long hike to the top of Ventana Double Cone, 
then return to pick up our gear and return to the cars after 
dark on Sunday. This is only 1.5 hour drive from San Jose. 
Heavy rain cancels. 


*** Around and Atop Roundtop Again
Peak:	Roundtop (10600) 	Class 2+ snow
Date:	Feb. 8  Sunday
Contact:	George Van Gorden  408-779-2320

We will meet at the Carson Pass snow-park at 8:00 and on 
snow shoes or skies head for Roundtop.  To the saddle 
above Lake Winumucca is easy walking and, crampons 
and ice axe are needed only on the last few hundred feet.  
Experience with axe and crampons is necessary.  


*** It's  A Cold, Cruel World
Peak:	Matterhorn Peak (12,264')               Class 3/snow
Dates:	Feb. 14-16
Maps:	Matterhorn Peak and Buckeye Ridge
Contact:	Kai Wiedman	650-347-5234

Let's test our mettle against the elements. To reach a 
Sierra summit in winter is a major achievement. We may 
never climb in Alaska or the Himalayas, but a winter ascent 
of the Matterhorn could be our Everest. I would like to form 
two teams; one on skis and one on showshoes. Please give 
me a call if you would like to lead the snowshoe team.


*** Pakistan
Date: 	August 1998
Contact:	Warren Storkman

Along the Afghan border from Chitral to Hunza. Duration of 
28 days, with 20 trekking.


*** Nepal
Peak:	Mera Peak (21,000)
Date:	October 1998
Contact:	Warren Storkman 
	4180 Mackay Drive, Palo Alto, CA 94306
	650-493-8959(H), 650-493-8975(FAX)
	Dstorkman@AOL.com    

Mera Peak 21,000 also a trekking group to Tengbache. 
Trek from Arun River, a seldom traveled route. People and  
villages that are not accustomed to seeing  Westerners. I'll 
retrace a 1983 trek.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chance favors prepared minds. -Czech proverb
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"If you pick up a starving dog and make him 
prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal 
difference between a dog and a man."
  -- Mark Twain
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Use email:  Never send a tree to do an electron's work"
-- Rich Calliger
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE BACK PAGE
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Scree is the monthly journal of the Peak Climbing 
Section of the Sierra Club, Loma Prieta Chapter.


=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
Elected Officials
=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=

Chair:
	Roger  Crawley 
	650-321-8602  home
	761 Nash Avenue, Menlo Park, CA 94025

Vice Chair and Trip Scheduler:
	Arun Mahajan / arun@sentientnet.com
	408-244-7912 home, 408-473-8029 work,
	3770 Flora Vista Avenue, #904, Santa Clara, CA 95051

Treasurer and Membership Roster (address changes):
	Nancy Fitzsimmons/Nancy_Fitzsimmons@BayNetworks.com
	408-957-9683 home
	1025 Abbott Avenue, Milpitas, CA 95035


=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
Appointed Positions
=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=

Scree Editor:
	Bob Bynum / rfbynum@aol.com
	510-659-1413 home/work 
	761 Towhee Court, Fremont CA 94539-7421

PCS World Wide Web Publisher:
	Aaron Schuman 
	650-933-1901, http://www.sierraclub.org/chapters/lomaprieta/pcs/
	223 Horizon Avenue, Mountain View, CA 94043-4718


=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
Subscriptions and Email List Info
=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=

Hardcopy subscriptions are $10. Subscription applications and 
checks payable to "PCS" should be mailed to the Treasurer so 
they arrive before the last Tuesday of the expiration month. If 
you are on the PCS email list (discussion version or lower-
volume news version), you have a free EScree subscription. For 
broadcast info, send Email to  with 
the one-line message
   INFO lomap-peak-climbing
or contact a human at . EScree subscribers
should send a subscription form to the Treasurer to become voting
PCS members at no charge. All subscribers are requested to send a 
donation of $2/year to cover operating expenses other than 
printing the Scree. The Scree is on the PCS web site (as both plain 
text and PDF) at
   http://www.sierraclub.org/chapters/lomaprieta/pcs/Scree/Scree.html


=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
Rock Climbing Classifications
=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=

The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing trips 
for which you are qualified. No simple rating system can anticipate 
all possible conditions.
	Class 1: Walking on a trail.
	Class 2: Walking cross-country, using hands for balance.
	Class 3: Requires use of hands for climbing, rope may be used.
	Class 4: Requires rope belays.
	Class 5: Technical rock climbing.

In Upcoming Issues:
Feb 10,1998: Butch Suits - Skiing the High Sierra
Mar 10, 1998: Dr. Mark Cole Cho Oyo


=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 1/25/98.
Meetings are the second Tuesday of each month.
=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=

"Vy can't ve chust climb?" - John Salathe