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Scree for September, 1997

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This is the EScree - the Electronic version of the Scree newsletter from
the Peak Climbing Section of the Loma Prieta Chapter of the Sierra Club.
It should be viewed or printed with a fixed-pitch font such as Courier.
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     This publication may not be posted on any public news group.
                   September, 1997   Vol. 31, No. 9
    Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 9/28/97.
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Next meeting (PCS meetings are the second tuesday of each month)
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Date:	Tuesday, September 9
Time:	8:00 PM

Program:	Oh, Canada!
(or "Alpine Climbing in the Canadian Rockies" or "The PCS goes to Canada")

Watch Bob Suzuki solo the viciously exposed N.W. 
ridge of Mt. Sir Donald.  Ponder the bottom of Kelly 
Maas's crampon points as he kicks steps up the 
Silverhorn of Mt. Athabasca.  Behold Nancy 
Savickas as she punches through the summit cornice 
of Mr. Edith Cavell. See Kai Wiedman quiver in his 
boots looking at the snow plastered N. face of Mt. 
Assiniboine.

Location:	The North Face
217 Alma Street in Palo Alto, just north of the CalTrain station.
((PDF version of EScree has a drawn map here)) 


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"Ask Gaston" Returns!
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Dear Gaston: Do you have any suggestions as to how best to 
limit the amount of flatulence that can result from common trail 
foods, like beans? Last winter I had a nearly unbearable night 
in a tent with a guy who omitted prodigious quantities of gas. 
Unfortunately it was just too cold and snowy to sleep outside. 
Any tips besides sewing up the offending orifice?

- Holding My Breath


Dear Holding: Fight fire with fire. Eat kimchi & pickled aigs.

But seriously, I am the king of flatulence if that is a title which 
one would (or should) admit to. Then again, I am not soliciting 
hiking partners in this pathetic publication, so what the hell. 
What I have tried to do over the years is to identify foods which I 
KNOW will give me trouble and stay away from them (anything 
with cooked onions in it is a bozo NO NO - raw onions are no 
problem, go figure). With trail food the problem is vastly 
elevated since dried, calorie-rich foods can produce earth-
shattering anal explosions even in the queen of England. I, for 
myself, find it best to go away from the others after a meal and 
fart up a storm instead of trying to trap them via the sphincter 
squeeze. Ahhh, if only the stuff would act as a mosquito 
repellent!! I feel not letting go just makes the gas ferment all the 
longer in the colon, and that makes for trouble in the tent later on.

((PDF version of EScree has a picture of Gaston here)) 

A grand trick is to make sure they (or you) carry matches. Strike 
the match and then blow it out. The sulfurous smoke from the 
match head competes beautifully for the same receptors in your 
nose that the shit molecules go for. At least that is how I, 
Gaston, interpret it. The only other explanation is that the smoke 
binds to the fart directly and alters it in some way so that it can 
be detected by your nose. Someone should publish a study on 
this in JAMA. now there is tax money well-spent! in any event, 
it works great. One problem is that you need to keep lighting 
matches for the duration of the gas extravaganza. Be careful 
about striking a match in an enclosed area too rich in methane 
gas! "...Oh, the humanity!!"

Wait, it's coming to me now. Cold and snowy? Then VBL is 
the answer!  Make sure the other person uses a vapor barrier 
liner in his sleeping bag. As well as the well known thermal 
effects of a VBL, they also have the side effect of preventing 
smells from escaping (until morning), especially with a tight 
drawstring above the shoulders.

I could go on, but I grow weary of this topic. Now go and trouble 
me no more.


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Official (PCS) Trips
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PCS trips must be submitted through the Scheduler (see 
back cover for details). Trips not received from the 
Scheduler will be listed as PRIVATE, without recourse.


*** Mokelumne River Canyon,
Trip:	Mokelumne River Canyon	class 2
Dates:	Sep 5-8	Fri-Mon
Topos:	Mokelumne Peak, Pacific Valley, both 15 min
Leader:	John Ingvoldstad	209-296-8483	kate@cdepot.net

This is a 35 mile trip up a very scenic, 4,000 foot deep canyon, 
elevations from 5,000 to 9,000 feet.  Includes river crossings, 
cross-country, and route finding.  Opportunities to fish and swim. 
Short car shuttle.  Starts at Bear Valley off Hwy 4.


*** Mt. Gabb
Peak:	Mt. Gabb (13,741')	class 2-3
Dates:	Sep 12-14	Fri-Sun
Leader:	Peter Maxwell	408-737-9770

This trip is two weeks after Labor Day weekend, so we'll avoid all 
the crowds. Leaving Thursday night will avoid traffic hassles also 
and we'll have a three-day weekend ahead of us. We'll hike in 
Friday from Rock Creek, head up Little Lakes Valley, and cross 
over the Sierra crest using Cox Col, just northwest of Bear Creek 
Spire.  We'll camp somewhere that looks nice, do the peak on 
Saturday, and hike out Sunday.  We'll do the south slope, which 
Secor rates as class 2, but with the class-3 variant of going 
directly up to the summit, rather than taking the southwest ridge. 
(NOTE: Steve Eckert is thinking about adding Hilgard and/or 
Recess to this trip, contact him if interested.)


*** Mt. Diablo Conditioning Hike
Peak:	Mt. Diablo (3,849')	class 1
Date:	Oct 18 	Sat
Leader:	Vreni Rau	510-582-5578
Co-Leader:	Debbie Benham	650-964-0558	dmbenham@aol.com

No ice axe or crampons required!! Enjoy a hike up this grand 
devil mountain. We'll meet at Macedo Ranch parking area at 9 
a.m. and follow the Summit Trail to the top. Expect about 14 
miles and a total 3300' elevation gain. Carpool point in Milpitas at 
Highway 237 and Hillview (Bank of America parking lot), leaving 
at 8:15 a.m. 


*** An Unkosher Mountain
Peaks:	Needham, Sawtooth (S), Vandever	class 2
Dates:	Oct 18-19	Sat-Sun
Maps:	Mineral King 15 min. or Mineral King 7.5 min.
Leader:	 Aaron Schuman	H 650-984-9184
	schuman@sgi.com	W 650-933-1901

Only one week after purging our souls on Yom Kippur, we Need 
Ham again. Saturday, we'll acclimatize on Vandever Peak 
(11,947' class 2), and steel ourselves for Sunday's spectacular 
but arduous ascent of Need Ham Mountain (12,520' class 3). 
Before dawn lifts the frost off Mineral King valley, we'll light out for 
Crystal Lake. After a challenging crossing of Crystal Pass, we'll 
descend to Amphitheater Lake and climb the southern slopes of 
Need Ham. If time and energy permit, we'll traverse the mile long, 
airy, class-3 ridge to Sawtooth Peak (12,343' class 2), then 
descend via Sawtooth Pass and Monarch Lake. We're going to 
gain and lose 5800 vertical feet on Sunday, so be prepared for a 
merciless workout! Severe snow postpones this trip until fall 
1998. 


*** Kern Connector
Peaks:	Angora, Coyote, Eisen, Lippincott	class 2
Dates:	Oct 20-23	Mon-Thu
Maps:	Kern Peak, Triple Divide Peak (15' topos)
Leader:	Steve Eckert	650-508-0500	eckert@netcom.com

If you've ever wanted to be deep in the Sierra during fall colors 
and without bugs, or if you've ever wondered what the Kern River 
looked like at 7000', this is the trip for you! Timed to follow 
Schuman's Vandever/Needham trip, we'll continue over Black 
Rock Pass and climb Eisen (12,160' class 2) and Lippincott 
(12,260' class 2) from Little Five Lakes. Continuing down Big 
Arroyo, it's a long gentle walk through the glacially carved Kern 
Canyon to Coyote (10,892' class 2) and Angora (10,202' class 
2), then over to meet Bob Suzuki's group on their dayhike of 
Moses and Maggie. One-way hiking means we can get some 
remote peaks without as much mileage, but it also means you've can't 
turn around if you get tired or get a blister.


*** Moses Rockhouse
Peaks:	Maggie, Moses,  Rockhouse, Taylor, Sirretta
Maps:	Mineral King, Lamont Peak, Kernville topos
Dates:	Oct 24-26	Fri-Sun
Leader:	Bob Suzuki	after 8 pm: 408-259-0772
	bobszk@pacbell.net
Co-Leader:	Steve Eckert	650-508-0500
	eckert@netcom.com

From Mountain Home State Park, we'll do a long dayhike of North 
Moses (9,331' class 3) and Maggie (10,235' class 1) on Friday. 
Then we'll caravan down to Big Meadow (off Cherry Hill near 
Sherman Pass) for Saturday dayhikes of Taylor (8,774' class 2) 
and Sirretta (9,977' class 1) with the people who could not take 
Friday off work. Sunday we'll walk over to Rockhouse (8,383' 
class 2) and head home. Car camping means we can travel fast 
and light, and it also means you can choose whether to do all the 
peaks or just a few of them. Fall temperatures should be 
moderate at this elevation, but rattlesnakes and light snow are 
possible.


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Red Slate Mountain, Red And White Mountain
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bob Suzuki led this trip on the last weekend in May 1997. 
Participants included Dee Booth, Marilyn Hurley, Scott Kreider, 
Rich Leiker, Arun Mahajan, Ted Raczek, and myself (Jim 
Ramaker). Our goals were to climb both peaks in a two-day 
weekend, frolic in the high-country snow of late spring, and we 
hoped, make up for the 1996 PCS group that had to turn back on 
Red & White because of loose rock and a rockfall injury.

We left the McGee Pass trailhead at 8 a.m. Saturday, hiking up 
the valley under partly cloudy skies. The weather remained 
partly cloudy all weekend but never rained, so it was nice and 
cool during the day and warmer than it otherwise would have 
been at night, not to mention the nice cloud effects for photographers.

We crossed swollen McGee Creek several times -- once on a log 
and twice on convenient snow bridges. Snow level was around 
9500 feet and snow conditions were generally good -- a little 
sloppy in the afternoon, but never soft enough to require 
snowshoes. We reached snowbound and iced-up Big McGee 
Lake at 1:30, set up camp on a tiny patch of bare ground, and 
packed for the first climb.

At 3 p.m., six of us set off for the hike thru a snowbound valley 
toward Red Slate Mountain (13,163), 3 miles to the northwest. 
The peak was hidden until we were well up the valley, which 
enabled us to say "That's it!" three separate times, then decide 
that no, that wasn't it after all. This area has a number of 
imposing reddish-hued peaks. Around 4:30 we reached McGee 
Pass, then began the final 1200-foot push up easy snow and 
scree slopes. While slogging up this slope, some of us had ample 
time to realize that going from sea level to 13,000 feet in 24 
hours on your first trip of the year is not a good idea. Bob and 
Rich seemed relatively unaffected, no doubt benefiting from 
their experience on Rainier the weekend before.

We summitted at 5:30 and admired the tremendous views of the 
snowbound mid-Sierra region, from the Ritter range in the north 
to the Abbot group in the south. Descent was relatively pleasant, 
with plenty of soft snow for glissading, and we were back in 
camp by 7:30. The wind continued all night and kept the tents 
flapping, but I was too exhausted to hear it and imagine many of 
the crew felt likewise.

Sunday at 5:30 a.m. found us smashing a hole in the frozen lake 
to get water, but it was actually a nice dawn -- the cloud cover 
had kept the temperature at a mild 38 degrees. We departed at 
7:20 and retraced our steps from the day before for awhile, then 
turned left and climbed out of the valley just south of snow-
covered Little McGee Lake. (By the way, I once backpacked 
through this valley in late summer and it was extremely 
beautiful, with little tarns and meadows and oceans of colorful 
rock).

Our plan was to circle to the north of Red and White Mountain 
(12,850), climb the 12,300-foot hump just north of it, then 
traverse back southward to the peak and finish up via the 
northeast ridge. The 1500-foot southeast face that rises directly 
from the Big McGee Lake basin is a more direct route, but this 
is the route on which the 1996 party turned back. While the 
loose rock of last summer was now covered by snow from lake 
to summit, making this route a fine moderate snow climb, some 
members of our party were uncomfortable on snow, so our route 
was a better choice.

Morning snow conditions were perfect for cramponing, and by 9 a.m. 
we were atop the snow hump north of Red and White, gnawing at 
rock hard PowerBars and contemplating the rest of the route. At this 
point the slogging ended and we enjoyed a little climbing -- an 
aesthetic class two scree ridge, and then a rarity in the Sierras, a 
sharp snow ridge with long snow slopes on both sides.

Here we paused for a repetition of that beloved PCS ritual -- the 
discussion of which route to take. The class-3 northeast ridge 
beckoned above -- snow free, but littered with loose rubble. I 
wanted to split the party and traverse on snow around onto the 
southeast slope, on the theory that four people kicking rocks 
down on one another is better than eight doing so, but no one liked 
that idea, so all eight of us followed Bob up the northeast ridge.

Miraculously, no major rocks descended, and the climbing was 
quite easy except for the constant danger of loose rocks almost 
everywhere you placed hand or foot. By 11 a.m., we had our 
peak and were all very happy. Views were once again excellent, 
especially the snowbound expanse to the west. The descent of 
the ridge went just like the ascent, with no missiles cut loose. 
This group deserves a great deal of credit for climbing so 
delicately and carefully, even when tired at almost 13,000 feet. 
Over half the group had technical climbing experience, so that 
probably explains the meticulous climbing. Future parties 
should go in much smaller groups or else do the early-season 
snow climb on the south- east face. As my father used to say, 
"Do what I say, not what I do."

Descent to camp went a bit slowly with the large group and the 
taking off and putting on of crampons, and we got back to camp 
at 2, packed up, and hiked out from 3 to 6. The last hour of the 
hike out was in some ways the most beautiful, as we passed a 
vast field of bright yellow corn- flowers, which together with the 
bright green grass and aspen trees, the dashing creek, the 
massive peaks above with their golden brown, brick red, gray, 
white, and black rock streaked with snow, and the blue sky with 
gray clouds above made for an unforgettable mountain panorama.

Despite the late hour, all of us met in Mammoth to have supper 
and celebrate the conclusion of a very satisfying trip. PCS 
alumni Mike Johnson, who lives in Mammoth, took time off 
from his job at the Shell station to join us.

- Jim Ramaker


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Blood on the Biner:  Eichorn Pinnacle
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

After a successful ascent of Lone Pine Peak and a day of rest, 
Craig Clarence and your loyal scribe David Harris wandered up 
to Yosemite for another day of climbing (July 16, 1997). Living 
in Mammoth is very convenient because we reached the 
Cathedral Lake trailhead in just an hour. Another hour of fast 
walking up a great use trail along Budd Creek put us at the base 
of Cathedral Peak.

In the morning we had a terrific climb up the southeast buttress 
of Cathedral Peak. The peak is justly famous for solid rock with 
great cracks and holds and very enjoyable climbing in the midst 
of amazingly beautiful glacially scoured scenery. The only 
drawback of the climb for me was that my hands were scraped 
raw until my locking biner got bloody!

From the summit, Eichorn Pinnacle, the lower summit spire, is 
an impressive sight. Jules Eichorn had soloed it and we decided 
to repeat his route. From the ridge between the summits, 
Eichorn Pinnacle looks quite difficult, but supposedly an easier 
route existed around to the right side. If the route had not been 
mentioned in the guidebook, we never would have considered 
the unlikely traverse to the right. I led the climb, never being 
able to see more than a few moves in front of me. Amazingly, 
good holds would appear exactly where they were needed so the 
climbing was unexpectedly moderate. There was lots of air 
under my feet and four pitons along the way to a good belay 
ledge at the end of the first pitch. From there, I led a short, easy 
second pitch to the summit. The register is bolted to the summit 
and features an entry signed by Eichorn himself! Cathedral peak 
justly receives lots of attention, but the Eichorn pinnacle is 
worthy of the extra time when one is up there.

The rap off the summit is protected by about a dozen slings! It 
can be done on a single 50m rope, but one must be careful to 
exactly center the rope to avoid running out of rope on a 4th 
class ledge! The remainder of the descent is easy and pleasant.

- David Harris


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Notes and Requests
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*** Yosemite Takes A Toll

Yosemite National Park announced today [7/30/1997] that there 
will be a change in entrance fees beginning Friday. Drivers 
using the park as a shortcut through the Sierra Nevada will pay a 
$5 fee and receive a time-imprinted receipt. Those staying in the 
park beyond the allotted number of hours will pay the remaining $15 
of the full recreational-use fee when they leave the park. Vehicles 
must enter or exit the park through the Tioga Pass entrance on Tioga 
Road.

- Aaron Schuman 


*** Sierra Club Memberships/Members By Chapter

Apparently some members don't pay annually, because they 
have honorary memberships, lifetime memberships, or because a 
couple shares the same membership - Ed.

NAME                 MEMBERSHIPS   MEMBERS
------------------    --------     -------
ANGELES CHAPTER        42,349       48,010
SAN FRANCISCO BAY      30,950       36,131
ATLANTIC CHAPTER       28,487       31,730
LOMA PRIETA            20,000       23,279
ILLINOIS CHAPTER       20,455       22,759
CASCADE CHAPTER        17,832       20,086
[chapters below 20,000 removed from table]
T O T A L S :         489,196      554,235

SOURCE: pat.veitch@sfsierra.sierraclub.org, May 1997


*** High Alaska Magazine on the Web

Quoting from : "Spring thundered 
into Anchorage early this year with the snow retreating at record 
pace. We reluctantly put away our ice tools and dusted off the 
old rock shoes - heading out to do some climbing in the light 
that lingers a bit longer each night. Spring also brought about 
High Alaska Magazine, an on-line magazine/guide for 
mountaineers, backpackers and explorers in Alaska's 
backcountry. We're still in the works, so bookmark this page and 
check back often."

They've got some pages under construction that appear to be the 
start of an online guidebook to climbing and recreation in 
Alaska. I've found online or hardcopy guidebooks are 
unavailable for most of the peaks, even Marcus Baker (the high 
point of the Chugach Range) which I climbed with a guide last year.

There's also a link to the Mountaineering Club of Alaska, whose 
newsletter is coincidentally called the Scree just like the PCS 
newsletter, at . A cool resources 
page has links to charter air services, weather forecasts, etc. 
They also have more information on specific accidents like 
Ptarmigan Peak (where an entire class fell killing 2 and injuring 12).

- Steve Eckert 


*** Tahoe Peaks List

If you're on the WWW, jump to
	http://www.mother.com/~beren/pgs/ogullist.htm
You'll find a list of 61 peaks compiled with the explicit purpose
of encouraging peak-climbing in the Lake Tahoe Region.  This 
list was compiled and is maintained by the Peak and Gorge 
Section, Mother Lode Chapter, Sierra Club.  You might check 
out Schaffer's Tahoe Sierra for specific directions to climbs.

- Beren Erchamion 


*** Outdoors Unlimited Medical Training

If you are ready to get beyond basic first aid, here is an 
opportunity to get some training that is by and for backcountry 
travelers. I know one of the instructors. She is a qualified, 
enthusiastic teacher but is always willing to learn.

UCSF's Outdoors Unlimited (a non-profit outdoor play and 
education organization) has announced the dates for their fall 
Wilderness Emergency Response class. Certification includes 
Red Cross Emergency Response, Red Cross CPR for the 
Professional Rescuer, and Outdoors Unlimited Advanced 
Wilderness First Aid. Cost is $190 for non-UCSF affiliates 
(cheapest I've seen around) and includes instruction, Red Cross 
book & workbook, Wilderness First Aid book, camping fees for 
final weekend--does not include resuscitation mask or 
transportation and food costs for final weekend.

Classroom sessions: Tues & Thurs, 7-10pm, September 4 - 
November 11 (no class on Sept. 11); CPR for Professional Rescuer: 
Saturday, September 13, 9am - 5pm; Scenario and Skills Practice 
Sessions: October 4 & November 15-16. (ALL Saturday/Sunday 
sessions are required for certification). Signups begin July 7. The 
phone number for Outdoors Unlimited is 415 476-2078.

- Will Hirst 


*** Aconcagua Private Expedition

Dec 26, 1997 through Jan 20, 1998 - Two openings exist.  
Anyone interested?  I have 2 locked-in tickets R/T for $851.95 
ea., available (to the first two emailers at 
calliger@infolane.com).

Please take a look at Secor's "Climbing Aconcagua" if you are 
interested, then contact me for further details via email. The 
main challenges to this climb are the altitude (6,962 meters or 
22,841 feet) and the weather (-10F to -20F plus wind during the 
period we will go). It is the start of the summer there in 
December and with the altitude expect conditions like climbing 
a 14'er here in late winter early-spring but colder.

You need to reserve Sept 20 for a mandatory trip planning 
meeting, and then several dates between now and Dec 26 for 
some conditioning/training and equipment shake out climbs. 

- R.J. Calliger(510-651-1876) 


+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ If you obey all the rules you miss all the fun. +
+           -- Katherine Hepburn                  +
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +

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Deer Mountain (8,796) and Pothole Dome (8,720+)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Following an excellent suggestion by Owen Maloy, I decided to 
hike up Deer Mountain (8,796) near Mammoth on my way home 
from Sunday's climb of Abbot (August 4, 1997). Not knowing 
where the peak was, I had to stop at the USFS visitors center 
near the eastern edge of town to get directions which were to 
take the Mammoth Scenic Loop, turn north onto the road signed 
for Inyo Craters and drive to the trailhead. I was very surprised 
by what I saw on the back road. It very much reminded me of the 
dense forests of the west side minus one thing: the smog.

The hike to the craters took about 10 minutes. The craters were 
amazing. The first crater one reaches is the Dragon's Neck. 
There is a use trail that circles the entire crater. Although hard 
to follow in places, it was easy going and yielded spectacular 
views down to pea soup colored lake at the bottom of the crater. 
After circling the first crater I headed to the east side of the next 
higher up crater which held an even larger green lake far at its 
bottom. The trail petered out around the north side of the crater. 
From here I headed north up the steep but easy slope of Deer 
Mountain following a use trail at first.

Near the top the vegetation started to vanish and hard packed 
volcanic sand and rock resembling concrete provided an 
interesting challenge for my "car" shoes. After slipping and 
sliding downhill a few times, I finally reached the rim of the 
crater. Deer Mountain is the high point of the crater. The 
shortest path was around the east side, which quickly turned into 
a knife edge. Although this sounds strange, using crampons and 
straddling the rim of the crater would have been perfect. I was 
forced to head west and downslope, slipping sometimes, into the 
drainage that came out of the crater. From here a steeper but 
easy duff slope gave access to the north rim where the high point 
could be walked up with little effort.

There was no benchmark or summit register on top, but the view of 
the surrounding mountains was reward enough. On my way down to 
the trailhead I hiked out to a small peaklet that rose from the north 
side of the mountain which was slightly lower than the crater rim.

Following the advice of Tony Cruz, I stopped in Tuolumne 
Meadows to hike Lembert and Dog domes. When I arrived I had 
plenty of time for the short hike but there was nowhere to park! 
It was now time for plan B. My only problem was that I didn't 
have a plan B... I continued on down the road towards Fairview 
dome and parked on the north side of the road about half a mile 
from the large lot at the west end of the meadow. To the north 
was a photographer shooting the formation at the west end of the 
meadows that I believe is called Pothole Dome (8,720+). If it's 
good enough to photograph then its certainly worth the hike out. 
After a few hundred yards of the wet meadow I reached the class 
1 slopes of the dome. It took about 10 minutes to reach the high 
point which is far to the northwest, out of sight of the road. 
Almost the entire east slope was walkable class 1 but the most 
direct route involved a small bit of class 2 scrambling. The view 
of the river and the surrounding peaks was spectacular. This was 
my first dome in the area, and although it isn't as prominent as 
its neighbors Daff and Fairview, the view more than justified the 
effort. An easier way up the dome would be to park at the lot at 
the west end of the meadow and take the trail east to the south 
side of the dome. From here a use trail led up to the east slopes. 
My drive home to Fresno was the most agonizing I've ever 
experienced. I was caught behind some tourists from the east 
coast who insisted on practically stopping before each and every 
turn. Apparently the "Slower traffic use turnouts" signs didn't mean 
anything to them. By the time I reached coarsegold, a whopping 4 
hours from the meadows, my brakes were completely shot.

These weren't necessarily spectacular peaks from a 
mountaineering point of view, but they are very relaxing and 
enjoyable hikes that someone of any skill level could enjoy. I 
would recommend them both to anyone, especially after 
completing a tough trip, such as the north face of Abbot.

- Pat Ibbetson


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A New 15'er
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Three separate groups descended on Treasure Lakes Saturday to 
camp, to gaze, and, eventually, to climb the following day, the 
Hourglass Couloir to the top of Mt. Dade. Looking at the 
Hourglass route, we had all afternoon to imagine lengthy falls 
from the top that involved bloodied crampons and bodies hitting 
bodies. While most of us acclimatized and lounged, two 
climbers ice axed their way to Dade Lake for a bit of practice 
and a leg stretch. While no bears were spotted, we did have a fat 
marmot look longingly at our dinners. There were very few 
campsites around the lakes, but all managed to pitch their tents.

Bright and early, at 7am, we headed up. The snow was crisp and 
crusty with bootsized sun cups. There was a wide range of skill 
level within the three groups coupled with a variety of 
equipment. Ice axes were a must while some people donned 
crampons. We followed a wonderful 'ice stairway' from midway 
to the top of the snow. The morning was clear, bright, and 
windless. We followed a use trail to the summit and had 
marvelous and memorable views of Seven Gables, Gabb, and, of 
course, Bear Creek Spire. Arun Mahajan dayhiked Dade and 
joined us on top -- a total of fifteen mountaineers!!

Heading down the snow couloir, a skier was on his way up! One 
of our group asked to borrow the skis for the downhill. Back in 
camp and packing up to head out, the mosquito was there to 
remind us to hurry up and move. A grand trip it was! Little 
Lakes Valley was gorgeous with wildflowers galore. Thanks to 
all who participated! Group l: Nancy Fitzsimmons (co-leader), 
Steve King, Jeff West, Noreen and Dan Boram, Ron Freemire, 
Dennis Hiipakka and, yours truly, Debbie Benham; Group 2: 
Anouchka Gaillard and Kate Ingvoldstadt; Group 3: Ron Karpel, 
Nick Pilch, Ted Razcek and David Lou; The Lone Dayhiker: 
Arun Mahajan.

- Debbie Benham


+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ I went to the woods because I wished to live                +
+ deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life,    +
+ and not see if I could not learn what it had to teach,      +
+ and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not        +
+ lived. I wanted to live deep and suck out all the           +
+ marrow of life, to live so sturdily and Spartan like as     +
+ to put to rout all that was not life, to cut a broad swath  + 
+ and shave close, to drive life into a corner, and reduce    +
+ it to its lowest terms, and, if it proved to be mean, why   +
+ then to get the whole and genuine meanness of it, and       +
+ publish its meanness to the world; or if it were            +
+ sublime, to know it by experience and be able to give       +
+ a true account of it in my next excursion.                  +
+            - Henry David Thoreau                            +
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Unofficial (Private) Trips
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Private trips may be submitted directly to the Scree Editor, 
but are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra 
Club. They are listed here because they may be of interest to 
PCS members, not because they are endorsed by the PCS.


*** 6 Pack Minus 2 = 4 For Today
Peaks:	Tulare, Florence, Rainbow, Unnamed	class 3
Date:	Saturday Aug. 16
Map:	Mineral King 15' quad
Contact:	Pat Ibbetson	pkibbetson@ucdavis.edu
Co-Contact:	Rich Calliger	calliger@infolane.com

From the Farewell Gap trailhead we will hike through gloriously 
beautiful Mineral King valley up to Franklin Lakes. From the 
Lower Dam we will climb the north slopes of well hidden Tulare 
Peak (class 2-3) and then descend to the Franklin Pass trail by 
skirting the shores of gorgeous Upper Franklin Lake. From the 
pass we will climb Florence Peak (12,432' class 2) via the class 
2 northeast ridge where we will have spirited views of the 
Kaweahs and the entire Kern Plateau followed by a sandy trip 
north to Rainbow (12,043' class 2). Time permitting, we will then 
descend Rainbow via the southwest sand slope and hike Peak 
12,045' (class 2-3) where we will have fantastic views of 
Needham Mtn, Mineral and Sawtooth Peaks.


*** Get Ritter Yer Banner
Peaks:	Ritter (13,157'), Banner (12,945')	class 3
Date:	Sep 6-7	Sat-Sun
Maps:	Mt. Ritter 7.5' quad
Contact:	David Harris	415-497-5571
	harrisd@leland.stanford.edu

Enjoy a fast-paced jaunt up two classic peaks. Taking the 
standard route from Devil's Postpile, we'll hike up to a camp at 
Ediza Lake and scramble up the Ritter/Banner saddle to one of 
the summits. Depending on how fast we move, we'll either bag 
the other peak or climb it Sunday morning before packing out. 
Trip limited to six strong hikers. Ice axe required.


*** Toulomne Family Car Camp
Peaks:	Koip (12,962'), Gibbs (12,773')	class 1
Dates:	Sep 13-14	Sat-Sun
Maps:	Mono Craters 15 min or
	Mount Dana & Koip Peak 7.5 min
Contact:	Aaron Schuman	H 650-968-9184
	schuman@sgi.com	W 650-933-1901
Co-Contact:	Cecil Magliocco	H 408-358-1168
	cecilm@ix.netcom.com

Tuolumne Meadows group campsite reserved Friday and Saturday 
nights. Family members are welcome.  Join us exploring the Pacific 
Crest on Saturday or construct your own day activity. Saturday, we'll 
day hike from Dana Meadows trailhead (9600) near the eastern edge 
of Yosemite National Park, over windswept Parker Pass (11100), to 
Koip Peak, to barren Mono Pass (10600), and up the south flank of 
Mount Gibbs. Sunday, we'll make a short class 2 jaunt, perhaps to 
Mount Gaylor or Tioga Peak.


*** Tiptoe to Tehipite
Peak:	Tehipite Dome (7,708')	class 3
Dates:	Sep 13-14	Sat-Sun
Map:	Tehipite Dome topo
Contact:	Charles Schafer	W 408-324-6003
	charles.schafer@octel.com	H 408-354-1545
Co-Contact:	Bob Suzuki	W 510-657-7555
	bobszk@pacbell.net	(>8 pm) 408-259-0772

Tehipite, which Secor says is "the largest dome in the Sierra Nevada," 
overlooks the Middle Fork of the Kings River in the western edge of 
Kings Canyon Natl Park. It will take a 30 mile round-trip hike, fording 
60' wide Crown Creek and climbing a seriously exposed, 20', class 3 
crux to enjoy the exceptional views from Tehipite's summit. We have 
a permit for 5 if you are up to this challenge. Climbing harness and 
rappel device needed.


*** Dana Couloir
Peak:	Mt. Dana (13,057')	class 3-4 ice
Date:	Sep 20	Sat
Contact:	George Van Gorden	408-779-2320

Early start from Tioga Pass Saturday morning. We will climb the 
couloir, putting in protection as we go. Exiting the couloir, we will 
go over the top of Dana and descend the trail. Long day. Ice axe, 
crampons, harness, and at least one ice screw required. Call 
after Aug. 21. 


*** Riders on the Ridge
Peak:	Mt. Morgan North (13,003')	class 3-4
Dates:	Sep 20-21	Sat-Sun
Map:	Convict Lake
Contact:	Kai Wiedman	650-327-5234
Co-Contact:	Cecil Ann	408-358-1168
	cecilm@ix.netcom.com

From "A Hundred Classic Climbs": "The Sweeping crest of the 
Nevahbe Ridge is a dramatic and colorful backdrop for the 
community of Crowley Lake. This route is a long, airy ridge climb, 
rising nearly a vertical mile from McGee Creek to the summit. 
The climbing is continually interesting and involves a wide range 
of rock types and quality." This climb will be a dayhike involving 
5000 feet of elevation gain over an 8.5 mile round trip, 
descending colorful Esha Canyon. We'll help you through the 
short 4th class step, so c'mon along. You can do it!


*** Doin' the Duplicates
Peak:	Stanford(N), Morgan(N), Red Slate	class 2-3
Dates:	Sep 26-28	Fri-Sun
Map:	Mt Abbot and Mt Morrison 15' topos
Contact:	Steve Eckert	650-508-0500
	eckert@netcom.com

Not to be confused with the OTHER Morgan, the OTHER 
Stanford, and Red&White, we'll be doing Morgan, Stanford, and 
Red Slate! Friday is a moderate pack in, Saturday we go over 
Stanford (12,851') to Morgan (13,005') and back over Stanford to 
camp. Sunday we bag Red Slate (13,168') and pack out. Roper 
says the traverse is class 2, Secor says it's class 3 in places. If 
you want an easier trip, you can skip Morgan and/or Red Slate (this 
trip is not as tough as many that I do).


*** Mt. Winchell
Peak:	Mt. Winchell (13,775'), East Arete	class 3
Dates:	Oct 4-5	Sat-Sun
Map:	Mt. Goddard 15'
Contact:	Debbie Benham	H 650-964-0558
	dmbenham@aol.com
Co-Contact:	Nancy Fitzsimmons	H 408-957-9683,
	Nancy_Fitzsimmons@BayNetworks.com

Roper reports, "This excellent class-3 route is by far the most 
popular way to reach the top of Winchell," with a Secor segue, 
"...and the summit is spectacular with an impressive view down 
the magnificent sculptures on the west face." A beautiful time of 
year in the Sierra with shorter, mosquito-less days and crisp, cool 
nights. Must have a bit of class-3 climbing experience. All will be 
asked to sign a liability waiver at trailhead. 


*** Climb Nevada
Peaks:	Wheeler, Boundary, Montgomery
Dates:	Oct 8-12	Wed-Sun
Contact:	Tony Cruz	408-944-2003
Co-Contact:	Pat Ibbetson	pkibbetson@ucdavis.edu

We will rendezvous in East Sierra and drive to Wheeler Peak 
(13,063') near Las Vegas. It is the second highest peak in 
Nevada, and glaciated. We hope to tour the famous nearby 
Lehman Caves before we drive to the White Mountains and climb 
Boundary (13,161'), the highest peak in Nevada, and adjacent 
Montgomery, which is in California, next to White Mountain.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hammered On Humphreys
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Humphrey's East Ridge Attempt (II, 5.4), August 2-3, 1997

Roy Lambertson and I attempted this route last weekend, 
starting at the base of the east ridge according to Moynier and 
Fiddler's guide, rather than following the Roper/Secor route, 
which uses a scree chute to gain the ridge closer to the summit.

We made it to the top of the big gendarme (13,000+) by mid-
morning Sunday. The view from this perch was impressive: A knife-
edge ridge of granite descends slightly to the saddle that marks the 
start of the standard East Ridge route. Above, an airy blocky ridge 
climbs to the massive, fortress-like east face of Humphreys.

Dark thunderheads were piling up over the summit, however. 
When we started at 5 a.m., the sky had been clear; now, shortly 
past 9 a.m., such a fast buildup did not bode well for our plans.

I remembered a similar situation I had encountered on the East 
Face of Whitney several years ago. There, retreat was much 
more difficult so we had continued on. We had been lucky: 
though we heard thunder and our ice axes buzzed with 
electricity for several minutes, no bolts struck Whitney. And the 
accompanying snow flurry was brief.

On this route, escape was much easier. The ridge up to this point had 
yielded three enjoyable 4th-5th class pitches, but an easy descent in 
the scree was available by scrambling off the gendarme.

Should we climb an exposed ridge to the highest lightning rod 
on the Sierra crest for miles? We reluctantly descended.

Roy, always quick with the self-deprecating humor, compared our 
strategy to that of the knights in the film Monty Python and the Holy 
Grail. These fellows usually responded to danger with headlong 
retreat, yelling: "Run Away! Run away!" To further memorialize our 
failure, he culled another TV reference from his misspent youth: he 
dubbed our gendarme "girlie-man peak," borrowing the name from 
the Hans und Franz skits of Saturday Night Live.

From that ridgetop I realized that adding Moynier's section of 
the ridge makes this route longer than a Grade II. In my book, 5-
6 additional pitches of 4th to low 5th-class climbing warrants a 
total rating of Grade III for the complete ridge. Next time I will 
allot a full day to this route.

The lower ridge did have one especially memorable section: a 
100-foot knife edge ridge, almost as smooth as the crest of an A-
frame: too narrow to walk on but you could hump across it on 
your butt (what do the French climbers call this technique? Au 
cheval? (on horseback?). I was leading at the time and couldn't 
tell if there was any pro on the crest; nor did I know if my butt 
could take the horseback ride. I opted for downclimbing on the 
left side to a ledge system. To enjoy these technical pitches you 
need to stay right on or near the crest. If you don't, you're just 
slogging up scree-covered ledges.

Despite our retreat, we enjoyed the weekend. The high desert 
was bursting with wildflowers--lupines, paintbrush, many 
others--and the hike in was short, though it involved a little 
bushwacking and some scree slogging. Also pleasant was a 
spearmint-type aroma that we enjoyed along the way. Was it 
actually spearmint? Maybe someone can who knows the flora 
better than me can answer this. At the unnamed lake where we 
camped, the meadow nearby was covered with blue shooting 
stars and purple heather.

We had the whole place to ourselves except for one other party--they 
climbed the Checkered Demon couloir Sunday morning. These guys 
had the right idea: pick a route you can get up and off of before the 
showers start. (By the way, we felt a few random drops of rain on the 
hike out, but we never did hear any thunder.) The night had barely 
been cold enough to freeze the neve in the couloir, and we were 
impressed with how efficiently they did the climb, including 
negotiating one melted-out section. Checkered Demon is the wildest 
looking rock I have seen in the Sierra. It is a calico cat of huge strips 
and patches of red, white and gray--a geological marvel.

Road info: Access is from the Buttermilk road west of Bishop. The 
last 2-3 miles of road are rough. Roy's Subaru Legend wagon did 
well negotiating the ruts on this section (a task that would have been 
very difficult without adequate clearance and 4WD). We parked at 
8600; If you have a very low gear, you can drive up to 9000 feet. 

- Butch Suits


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wonderful Wednesday
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

In his North Palisade day hike trip report, Jim Curl bewails 
route-finding through the federal wilderness bureaucracy. To 
sidestep the inconvenient permit process, he proposes that we 
climb indoors, leave California, climb stealthily without a 
permit, climb in winter, day hike, or "quit your job and climb 
midweek". But it is perfectly feasible to enjoy the solitude of 
midweek climbing without enduring unemployment. Nowadays 
many companies encourage their employees to take an 
occasional day off, and even pay them to do it. Enlightened 
managers feel this policy actually boosts morale and productivity.

On July 16, Steve Eckert and I made a Wonderful Wednesday 
outing to North Peak and Mount Conness. We left his home in 
Belmont at 4:00 am, zipped up to (10087') Saddlebag Lake and 
began hiking at 9:00. We evaded the mosquitoes at Greenstone 
Lake, rambled up to Conness Lakes, kicked steps up the snowy 
southeast side of North Peak, reaching the 12242' summit by 
2:30 pm. If we knew our limits, we would have headed home 
then, but like Old Johns, we lighted out for Mount Conness. 
Steve had never visited Conness, and I was nostalgic to return to 
the destination of my first Sierra Nevada peak climb (July 1984, 
and thank you, Bob Gross, for introducing me to the sport!). We 
crossed the Conness Glacier, gained the plateau, and walked up 
the summit sidewalk to the 12590' top around 5:30. Secor's 
guidebook suggests this route presents some challenges, but if 
there were any obstacles, they must have been buried in snow, 
because we didn't find them. We descended via lush Green 
Treble Creek and the Carnegie Institute, completing our loop at 
9:00 pm. It was too late for dinner at the Tioga Lodge, but we 
did run into Wade Larsen there. We took turns driving and 
sleeping, returning home by 2:00 am.

- Aaron Schuman


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ansel Adams, Ansel Adams
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Synopsis:

Thu, 3 July: Left Tuolomne Meadows at 9am. Hiked up Rafferty 
Creek and over Vogelsang Pass (a little snow). Turned left at the 
Lewis Creek trail and camped 0.5 miles before Lyell Fork of 
Merced, near a waterfall, at 6pm. Approximately 17 miles. 
Mosquitos were terrible all the way.

Fri, 4 July: Left camp at 8:30am, hiked down to Lyell Fork and 
then followed slabs and an intermittent path through bogs and 
forest up to the lake below Mt. Ansel Adams. Crossed river at 
lake outlet. Climbed easy snow couloir left of north face for 
several hundred feet. Then took steeper branch (40 degrees) up 
right until easy to exit left onto rock. Loose 2nd and 3rd class 
led straight up to summit (12:45pm). Retraced route down, 
except dropped straight into main couloir instead of the steeper 
right fork. Back at camp by 6pm.

Sat, 5 July: Left camp at 9:30am, retraced path back to T. Meadows by 6:45pm. 

Mt. Ansel Adams: 11,700'
Approximate total trip distance: 42 miles
Total elevation gain (via Avocet): 9500'
Participants: Cecil Ann, Debbie Benham, Jim Curl, Dot Reilly

Now, for those of you without jobs, or plenty of 
time in spite of being employed, here is the usual 
boring blather:

Friday morning, as we turned the corner to head up the Lyell 
Fork of the Merced, I looked up to catch my first sight of our 
objective, Mt. Ansel Adams. "A spectacular peak in the 
Yosemite backcountry" I had written in the description -- in 
truth, I had no idea what it looked like, and I figured it for the 
hulking mass behind an attractive fin-like peak far to the right. 
But upon examining the topo, I was surprised and elated to 
discover that this lovely steep sided peak that I thought was 
obstructing my view was in fact Mt. Ansel Adams.

Our little cast of characters, Cecil Ann, Debbie Benham, Jim 
Curl, and Dot Reilly, had set out lazily at 9am on the previous 
morning to attempt a repeat of Kai Wiedman's July 4th trip of 
the previous year. We even carried a copy of Jim Ramaker's 
write-up to guide us along. We headed up Rafferty Creek, over 
Vogelsang Pass (a little snow), down past a lovely cascade, and 
then left at the Lewis Creek trail. Jim's trip report proved very 
useful, although we thought the mileage was a bit overestimated 
as we passed by the mosquito infested camping site where last 
year's group had paused their first night. We pushed on to where 
they moved camp on their second morning, in a forested area 
near a waterfall, several hundred feet of lovely slabs above the 
Lyell Fork. The Clark Range stood out in front of us, glowing in 
the evening light. At 6pm, the mosquitoes were already at their 
worst -- DEET, raingear and finally a retreat into the tents were our 
only defenses. Just as well, as the 17 or so miles of trail left us tired.

Without thunderstorms to hurry us (not a cloud in sight all 
weekend), we casually set off Friday morning to climb the peak. 
We were surprised to find a pretty well-trodden path up the 
drainage and we passed several developed campsites. A momma 
bear and her three tiny cubs forced us to detour slightly, but the 
trillions of mosquitoes kept our pace up through the boggy 
lowlands. Cecil spotted a bald eagle flying over the marsh -- 
perhaps the same bird sighted on last year's trip.

The river didn't offer us any crossing opportunities, but it didn't 
seem any advantage to be on the right side anyway. We kept 
focused on our pointy peak and moved pretty easily over slabs, 
bogs and through forest. Electra Peak, a rather plain diminutive 
bump sandwiched between higher points, seemed like a dud 
from our angle. In contrast, the pyramidal Rogers Peak 
demanded our attention.

Upon reaching the lake below Mt. Ansel Adams (where we 
crossed the river), we looked up right at the easy snow slopes 
leading around to the south side. This was the route described in 
Roper and Secor and seemed completely reasonable at this 
point. By what powers of intuition and mountain savvy had Kai 
decided to ignore this and head up the couloir on the left? It 
seemed, like several other ascent possibilities, that it might go at 
class 3, but it certainly wasn't obvious. There was a short debate 
about trusting Kai versus Secor... and then we headed left.

We more or less followed the Wiedman route up the peak. We 
climbed part way up an easy snow couloir left of the north face until 
it split. Then we continued up a steeper narrower snow tongue to the 
right. As our feet began to slip up higher, we exited left onto the rock 
and climbed several hundred feet of fractured second and third class 
rock straight up to the summit. A nice climb.

We enjoyed a beautiful, warm, lazy hour of peak gazing, with views 
of Lyell, Rogers, Ritter, Banner, the Minarets and the Clark Range. 
It appears that Mt. Ansel Adams has more visitors than we thought -- 
about a dozen parties signed into the register last year. The register 
also noted that Ansel Adams had originally photographed this peak 
and was later in the second ascent party.

A quick scramble west on the summit ridge didn't reveal any obvious 
line down the south side. So we more or less retraced our steps, 
knocking off a lot of loose junk on the way. Rather than head back 
down the steeper snow tongue, we dropped off right into the main 
couloir. As I set off on one of the longest standing glissade rides I've 
had, Cecil and Debbie belted out one of the longest mountain duets 
I've heard. Pretty good voices, I must say.

On the hike back, I worried obsessively about our sloppy bear 
bagging job and those four bears we had seen earlier. My stomach 
already felt dangerously empty with 17 miles of hiking between 
camp and the road. I kept running ahead and losing my companions. 
At one stream crossing, they seemed stuck at a point I had leapt 
across. So, like McGyver, I whipped out a roll of duct tape and a 
Swiss Army knife and constructed a suspension bridge for them. My 
bear anxiety was wasted energy as usual, and we feasted that 
evening along with the mosquitoes. Sometime around 11:30pm, I set 
off a few Red Devil "Piccolo Petes" to celebrate the holiday.

We started out late and lazy Saturday morning with Vogelsang 
as our target. But when we got there, the bugs were so bad that 
we ended up deciding to leave. Debbie wanted badly to stay, but 
we outvoted her. Had the mosquitoes been allowed to cast votes, 
we would never have left. Dot already had a counted 58 
mosquito bites on one side of one of her legs -- it looked like she 
had chicken pox. An incoming hiker we passed near Vogelsang 
looked at her legs in horror and asked "Are those 
from...MOSQUITOES??"

We were back at the cars before 7pm and were able to enjoy a 
leisurely return home the next morning. 

- Jim Curl


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Warren's Not All That Bad!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

People kept telling me that Warren was a slag pile, a broken 
down heap, and so forth. But when someone called him a scree 
slog with a brushy bottom, I realized we were talking about Mt 
Warren and not Warren Storkman (my good friend and the 
esteemed Chair of the Peak Climbing Section). The only reports 
on the PCS or SPS websites indicated an overnight climb from 
Lundy Canyon??? With all of the discouraging comments, I 
decided to solo dayhike Warren so as not to expose any of my 
friends to such a terrible experience.

On my way home from Onion Valley (7/26/97), I stopped off at 
Camp 9 (the 9000' elevation major hairpin turn between Tioga 
Pass and Lee Vining) to see whether the brush was as bad as 
had been predicted. I noticed that the usual "Camp 9" was 
marked "No Camping", but right across the road you can walk 2 
minutes past the "road closed" sign and be in the Warren 
Canyon camping area with picnic tables and FREE numbered 
campsites. Why take the risk on a citation for camping illegally 
when you can just walk into the trees and camp in comfortable 
flat sites with no road noise?

There's a trail up the Warren Fork of Lee Vining Creek, but I 
only stayed on it for about 10 minutes. Bugs and mud motivated 
me to seek drier ground. Other PCS groups have gone up the 
canyon and looped around the west or north side of the peak, but 
I wanted to shave off a couple of miles. An SPS member warned 
me that the ridge from the trailhead was brushy, so I cut off the 
trail and went through a couple hundred feet of moderate brush 
to a low-hanging talus slope (below some minor pinnacles) that 
cuts through most of the brush and small trees. I angled left at 
the top of the talus where fairly stable footing could be found. 
This brought me to the south and east sides of a little bump 
behind which there is a good sized lake (10100') on the 15' topo. 
The lake is now a meadow, but the walking in that whole area is 
great - pine needle duff and no brush, boulders, or fallen trees to 
work around. A small stream not on the 15' map drains the 
southwest corner of the lake.

Continuing up through the trees in easy terrain, I hit the 
drainage between Mt Warren and Peak 11952 somewhere 
around the 10600' level. The 15' topo (made before I was born) 
shows a stream all the way to the crest, but in the 90s that 
stream ducks under the boulders below 10400'. It rumbles and 
gurgles, taunting you all the way up, but never shows itself. 
Imagine my surprise to find a reasonable use trail pounded into 
the large talus and boulders of the drainage! From 11700 to the 
summit (12327) is back to class 1 where the register indicates 
bighorn sheep can sometimes be seen.

The register also indicates that many people climb from Lundy 
Canyon, but I can't figure out why... it's more elevation gain, and 
looks like you miss the wonderful forest walking (which 
reminded me of Chagoopa Plateau). A small plane was doing 
acrobatics in Lundy, which would have REALLY made my day 
had I been hiking there. There is a radio repeater on the summit, 
and every helicopter crew that works on it signs the register 
(some laughing at hikers who don't fly there), so it's not a real 
wilderness experience at the top. On the other hand, the view of 
Mono Lake is well worth the effort.

The climb took about 2.5 hours, and the return was about 1.5 
hours, making this a good halfdayhike to include if you're 
burning a day driving from the eastern Sierra to the Bay area. 
(Your time may vary, depending on route finding skills and 
conditioning!) It could also be made into an easy overnight trip 
since there are an infinite number of great campsites around the 
"lake". Including breakfast at Schat's in Bishop, the climb, a 
leisurely lunch, and the drive, I got from Onion Valley to 
Belmont in just over 12 hours. The early talus was the only bad 
footing of the route, and that's only about 400' out of 3400'. So 
you see, Warren's not as bad as you may have heard!

- Steve Eckert

PS: There is a scanned route map with this report on the PCS 
website in case my route description is vague. New leaders 
might consider this as a place to build their confidence, since a 
route mistake merely lengthens the trip and can't really get you 
in trouble. Keep in mind that you are in the trees part of the 
way, and you never see the summit until the crest at 11700, at 
which point the antenna and solar array make it pretty obvious. 
Oops - too big of a hint. Sorry!


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(Dayhike/2) ^ (1/SisterSisterSister)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

As a warmup for an SPS trip I was supposed to lead (see Silver 
and Izaak Walton report), I solo dayhiked Three Sisters in about 
half a day (20 June 1997). Since the standard guidebooks seem 
to consider this area NOT part of the Sierra, I turned to the SPS 
and PCS website archives. (One day we may not need the 
guidebooks, eh?) Ibbetson's Epic from Dinkey Creek convinced 
me to start from Courtright Reservoir. The Roach Approach had 
too much cross country in an area where a good trail exists, so I 
decided to follow the Kline Line for a while.

No big tricks to this trip. It's a gentle trail from the west side of 
Courtright Reservoir (which DeLorme's CDROM calls 
"Coortwright") toward Cliff Lake, which I reached in under two 
hours. The Kline Line says "10 miles cross country to the peak" 
from the lake (obviously a typo - more like one mile), claims the 
peak is 101619' high (another typo - 10619), and I found no 
reason to steer for gullies or saddles (I just crossed the stream at 
the outlet of the lake, and hiked up the class 1 ridge to the east 
face of the peak arriving directly at the summit block instead of 
turning north along the ridge). The last 600' of the east face is 
steeper but has class 2 routes on it, making this a trip suitable 
for beginning hikers with a reasonably experienced leader. 
Grandparents and gradeschoolers could easily accompany you to 
stunning boulder-and-sand campsites near Cliff Lake, and all 
would have a wonderful time.

At 8:30am I was the first to sign the summit register this year, 
which really surprised me. This peak would be a good ski tour 
or early season trip. By late June, the mosquitoes were out in 
force, and I wound up wearing a head net on the 10619' summit! 
I had started around 5:30am in anticipation of a hot day, beating 
the heat nicely on the climb but fighting bugs on the return.

I returned to the car before 11am, making this a half-day hike up 
one of the Three Sisters (finally explaining the report title).

- Steve Eckert


+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ All conservation of Wilderness is self-defeating, for to  +
+ cherish we must see and fondle, and when enough have      +
+ seen and fondled, there is no Wilderness left to cherish. +
+       -- Aldo Leopold, "A Sand County Almanac".           +
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE BACK PAGE
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Scree is the monthly journal of the Peak Climbing 
Section of the Sierra Club, Loma Prieta Chapter.


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Elected Officials
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Chair:
	Warren Storkman / pcs_chair@kaweah.mti.sgi.com
	650-493-8959 home, 650-493-8975 fax
	4180 Mackay Drive, Palo Alto, CA 94306

Vice Chair and Trip Scheduler:
	Jim Ramaker / pcs_scheduler@kaweah.mti.sgi.com
	408-224-8553 home, 408-463-4873 work,
	188 Sunwood Meadows Place, San Jose CA 95119-1350

Treasurer and Membership Roster (address changes):
	George Van Gorden / pcs_treasurer@kaweah.mti.sgi.com
	408-779-2320 home
	830 Alkire Avenue, Morgan Hill, CA 95037


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Appointed Positions
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Scree Editor, Email Broadcast Operator:
	Steve Eckert / pcs_editor@kaweah.mti.sgi.com
	650-508-0500 home/work, 650-508-0501 fax
	1814 Oak Knoll Drive, Belmont, CA 94002-1753

PCS World Wide Web Publisher:
	Aaron Schuman / pcs_webmaster@kaweah.mti.sgi.com
	650-933-1901, http://reality.sgi.com/csp/pcs/index.html
	223 Horizon Avenue, Mountain View, CA 94043-4718


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Subscriptions
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Hardcopy subscriptions are $10. Subscription applications and checks
payable to "PCS" should be mailed to the Treasurer so they arrive before
the last Tuesday of the expiration month. If you are on the PCS email
list (discussion version or lower-volume news version), you have a free
EScree subscription. For broadcast info, send Email to
 with the one-line message:
   INFO lomap-peak-climbing-news
EScree  subscribers should send a subscription form to the Treasurer to
become voting PCS members at no charge. All subscribers are requested to
send a donation of $2/year to cover operating expenses other than
printing the Scree. The Scree is on the PCS web site (as both plain text
and Adobe Acrobat/PDF).


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Rock Climbing Classifications
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The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing 
trips for which you are qualified. No simple rating system can 
anticipate all possible conditions.
	Class 1: Walking on a trail.
	Class 2: Walking cross-country, using hands for balance.
	Class 3: Requires use of hands for climbing, rope may be used.
	Class 4: Requires rope belays.
	Class 5: Technical rock climbing.

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Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 9/28/97.
Meetings are the second Tuesday of each month.
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"Vy can't ve chust climb?" - John Salathe