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Scree for May, 1997

THE JUNE SCREE WILL BE EDITED BY TONY CRUZ!
Be sure to send submissions to CRUZ@IDT.COM for the June issue of Scree 
only, or send hardcopy to the address shown on the back page.

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This is the EScree - the Electronic version of the Scree newsletter from
the Peak Climbing Section of the Loma Prieta Chapter of the Sierra Club.
It should be viewed or printed with a fixed-pitch font such as Courier.
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     This publication may not be posted on any public news group.
                     April, 1997   Vol. 31, No. 5
    Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 5/25/97.
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Next meeting (PCS meetings are the second tuesday of each month)
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Date: Tuesday, May 13
Time: 7:30 PM
Program: ?
Location: The North Face, 217 Alma Street in Palo Alto
          (NOTE: THIS IS A NEW LOCATION FOR US!)


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Piloting the River
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Saturday (29 Mar 97) a bunch of PCSers went to seek the fabled 
Southern Pilot Knob which is supposedly surrounded by snakes, 
private land, angry ranchers, and rabid lawmen. The HPS route 
description says to drive up Bloomfield Ranch Rd and be nice to 
a certain lady who might let you pass... The road is not signed, 
and has a closed gate with a no trespassing sign.

So we drove further west (past Pilot Knob on 178) and turned 
north on the first road that was NOT marked "we hate you", 
which would be Doyle Ranch Road. This paved public road 
crosses the river (yep, the same South Fork Kern we failed to 
cross earlier and higher that morning) and abruptly turns left. 
Right at the turn was a nice family who did not understand why 
we would want to go to Pilot Knob, but allowed as how their 40 
acres did go right clear through to the wilderness (between Onyx 
and Smith ranchlands). If we could not get permission from one 
of the big guys, perhaps Benny would let us climb his hill and 
skirt around the private land in Stormy Canyon. Not sure what to 
make of a guy in shorts and bad hat hair with glacier glasses...

So we drove further west on Doyle and found some boot-and-hats 
cowpeople (not all boys) who allowed as how their ranch DID have a 
key to that dirt road right there next to Benny's place. But they did 
not have it TODAY. Not too sure who owned the land, either. 
Suggested we mosey on over and talk to the Smith Ranch boys just 
up the road a piece there in Onyx. Nice folks, but in a hurry to go 
rope some horses. In fact, the guy who spent the most time talking to 
me had to hand over the keys to his truck to the more exigent 
cowpeople. He kept his pliers, however, to point out features on the 
topo map.

So we drove right back to Benny's place, waved, and jumped over the 
fence onto the dirt road that runs east-northeast along the aqueduct 
into Stormy Canyon (left the cars at 2700'). If not for the family of 50 
inbred yapping dogs (Benny had warned us about them) and cows 
that jumped up and stomped around like they were bulls drinking 
espresso, the road would have been pretty mellow. We angled off the 
road toward Pilot Knob as soon as we could see a clear shot across 
the bowl south (NOT southwest) of the peak. It turns out we should 
have stayed lower, but the route worked with minimal brush and 
cactus.

We hit the southeast ridge at about 4800' after one sleep-
deprived climber decided to turn back in the heat, tiny flies, and 
yuccas. (I was wishing for an icy stream by this point.) The ridge 
works well if you are willing to hunt around a little. If you try to 
bull your way through, you'll want gloves and heavy canvas 
clothes for the brush! Soon we came to a very shallow saddle 
where the old HPS route meets the ridge from the other side 
(5500'), and started seeing one-rock "ducklings" (hardly cairns, 
and quite widely spaced in places). It's worth following the 
ducked route because the brush and yuccas are both quite 
significant up there!

The summit itself (6200+) is rated class 2, but it and one or two 
places further down could be called class 3 without too much 
argument (we especially liked the rock/tree chimney). Only three 
groups summitted last year, and there's plenty of room in the register. 
If only we had started earlier than 1pm, we might not have needed 
flashlights to look after the 2x8 across the aqueduct, the yapping 
dogs, and the gate on the way out. Thanks go to Pat Ibbetson for 
motivating the trip and providing the Dome Land Wilderness map. 
Congrats go to the summit party of David Harris, Bob Suzuki, Rich 
Leiker, and your [humble] scribe.

- Steve Eckert


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Official (PCS) Trips
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PCS trips must be submitted through the Scheduler (see 
back cover for details). Trips not received from the 
Scheduler will be listed as PRIVATE, without recourse.


*** Oh, Can't-cha climb Olancha
Peak:	Olancha Peak (12,123')	class 2
Dates:	May 17-18	Sat-Sun
Map:	Olancha Peak 15 min
Leader:	Aaron Schuman    H 415-968-9184
	schuman@sgi.com  W 415-933-1901
Co-Leader:	Charles Schafer            H 408-354-1545
		charles.schafer@octel.com  W 408-324-6003

Saturday, we'll haul up 7 miles from parched Sage Flat trailhead 
(5800') to our creekside camp by the Pacific Crest trail (9600'). 
Sunday, we'll hike 4 miles to the summit (12100') and return 
home. It's a very long drive from the Bay area. 


*** 21st Annual Mt. Shasta Climb
Peak:	Mt. Shasta (14,161')	class 2 snow
Dates:	May 24-26	Sat-Mon
Map:	Mount Shasta 7.5 min
Leader:	Bob Gross	408-241-6149 rwgross@compuserve.com

Web site: http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rwgross 
We drive to Mount Shasta on the evening of Friday May 23 and 
begin on Saturday morning. We snowshoe or X-C ski from 7000 
to 10,400 feet on the standard route and camp in the snow. 
Before dawn on Sunday, we start for the summit with required ice 
axe and crampons. Class 2, but it can get nasty due to high 
winds. After descending back to camp, we will leave the 
mountain on Sunday or Monday, depending on weather. You 
must have winter camping experience. Non-refundable sign-up 
fee of $10 to the leader will be donated to a Sierra Club cause. Sign-
up deadline is May 12. For further information, contact the leader.


*** Mt. Harrington
Peak:	Mt Harrington (11,005')	class 3
Dates:	June 7-8	Sat-Sun
Map:	Marion Peak 15'
Leader:	Kelly Maas	408-279-2054	maas@idt.com
Co-Leader:	WANTED

Don't worry that you've never heard of Harrington before. It's not 
the highest peak around but it's well situated between the mighty 
middle and south forks of the Kings River and is said to have 
great views. The basic goal here is to have a fun weekend in the 
mountains, which will be aided by "a short but enjoyable class 3 
route" on the north ridge. The trip should not otherwise be 
difficult, except for the large elevation gain. The trailhead is Cedar 
Grove at 4600'.


*** Cherry Creek Canyon Adventure Backpack
Trip:	cross-country backpacking	class 2-3 
Dates:	June 14-15	Sat-Sun
Maps:	Cherry Lake North 7.5', Kibbie Lake 7.5'
Leader:	Kai Weidman	415-347-5234

Cherry Creek Canyon is one of the most scenic places I've ever 
been to. We'll see raging rapids, quiet pools of crystal-clear 
water, sunny slabs of smooth granite, and rose-colored polished 
domes. Our adventure will take us over 20+ miles of rough and 
rugged terrain. Your eyes will be filled with such grandeur that 
you'll never notice your sore muscles. 


*** Beginner Trip Up Langley
Peak:	Mt. Langley (14,042')	class 1-2
Dates:	July 4-6 	Fri-Sun
Leader:	Chris Kramar	W 415-926-6861	H 510-796-6651 
Co-Leader:	Wanted

If you want to get one of the California fourteener's, this is the 
easiest. Friday we'll take a leisurely hike up the Cottonwood 
Lakes trail to the Cottonwood Lakes. There will be plenty of time 
to explore the lakes and even take a swim. Saturday we'll cross 
New Army Pass and proceed to the summit of Mt. Langley. We 
have all day to do this so beginning peak climbers should have no 
problem completing this climb. On Sunday we return to the cars 
with plenty of time to get home at a reasonable hour. This trip is 
for all peak climbers, as well as solid backpackers with little or no 
peak climbing experience who want to find out what peak 
climbing is all about. 


*** Tyndall In A Weekend
Peak:	Mt. Tyndall (14,018')	class 3
Dates:	Sat. July 26 - Sun. July 27
Leader:	Chris Kramar	W 415-926-6861	H 510-796-6651 
Co-Leader:	Wanted

Most people do this climb in three days, but with an aggressive 
schedule, we'll climb it in two. It IS possible, as I have climbed 
neighboring Mt. Williamson in two days. On Saturday we'll attain 
the top of Shepherd Pass and camp by Mt. Tyndall. Sunday we'll 
climb the peak and return to the cars. The first day involves a 
gain of 7000' over 12 miles, so I cannot overstress the 
importance of going ultralight. If you have questions about going 
light, I can provide instruction. Expect a late return Sunday night. 


*** Doing the Bear Abbot on Labor Dade
Peaks:	Bear Creek Spire, Dade, Abbot	class 2-3
Date:	Aug 30 - Sep 1	Sat-Mon (Labor Day)
Maps: 	Mt. Abbot, Mt. Hilgard 7.5' quad
Leader:	David Harris	(415) 497-5571	harrisd@leland.stanford.edu

Spend a glorious Labor Day weekend in the Little Lakes valley. 
On Saturday we will pack in a short distance to a convenient 
scenic camp and climb the magnificent Bear Creek Spire 
(13,720'+ class 3+) by Ulrich's Route. The summit spire evidently 
has an interesting move which can be facilitated by climbing 
shoes, though boots should be sufficient. Mt. Abbot (13,704' 
class 3) should be another fine climb. We'll probably also climb 
Mt. Dade (13,600' class 2), though I'd be game for something 
besides lumbering up the loose scree of the Hourglass if 
somebody has a better idea. Depending on interest, I may start 
the weekend on Friday with a dayhike of one of the other peaks 
around the Little Lakes valley. Send me mail if you have preferences.


*** Get Ritter Yer Banner
Peaks:	Ritter (13157'), Banner (12945')	class 3
Date:	Sep 6-7	Sat-Sun
Maps:	Mt. Ritter 7.5' quad
Leader:	David Harris	415-497-5571	harrisd@leland.stanford.edu

Enjoy a fast-paced jaunt up two classic peaks. Taking the 
standard route from Devil's Postpile, we'll hike up to a camp at 
Ediza Lake and scramble up the Ritter/Banner saddle to one of 
the summits. Depending on how fast we move, we'll either bag 
the other peak or climb it Sunday morning before packing out. 
Trip limited to six strong hikers. Ice axe required.


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Rumblings and Bumblings in Yosemite
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Through the dust left by the previous day's avalanche, I noticed 
black clouds in the early morning sky. My tenuous 
determination, already weakened further by lack of sleep, the 
sticky humid heat, and the dust burning my throat, began to 
fade.

"This pack is too damn heavy anyway." The steep trail was 
causing my thighs to burn with each step. The Yosemite Falls 
trail is one I'd been up and down a number times before, but 
never with a 65 pound pack at 4:30 a.m.

I sat down and looked at the clouds -- there had been buildups in 
the high country every afternoon, but nothing had really 
threatened here in the Valley. Now I wondered if that would 
change today. The last thing I needed was for Zeus to start 
chucking lightning bolts my way.

"Oh well, I might as well go up and take a look." If I bailed and 
the clouds burned off, I knew I wouldn't be able to forgive 
myself. And if they didn't, the worst would be that I lugged a 
huge pack up and down this trail and maybe got a little wet.

A little after 6 a.m., with the clouds somewhat dispersed, I 
tossed my ropes and began to rappel. Laden with a daypack, a 
small rack, two more ropes, and all the carabiners I owned, it 
was a little awkward as I passed the knot at the end of the first 
rope and began, with a jumar as a backup, rappelling down the 
second rope, a skinny 8.5mm.

The cool morning breeze should have felt good, but instead it 
magnified my worries and doubts. I looked up at the rope 
stretching over the cold, dark stone wall. At 250 feet, the 
climbing ropes seemed a lot more like thin rubber bands, 
elongating a good 20 feet under the weight of my body and gear. 
And the single 8.5mm strand was all too eager to slip through 
my rappel device.

Some 270 feet below the rim, I swung right about 15 feet in 
order to land my feet on the loose talus of the Lost Arrow notch. 
There I carefully worked my way onto more solid ground and 
eventually, ropes in tow, to a familiar set of shiny bolt anchors 
on the Spire itself.

I'd been there a few weeks before, with my two friends David 
Ress and Bob Suzuki. On that trip, I had been irritable, pissed 
off and a general asshole at times because things did not go as 
smoothly as I would have liked. So partly because I thought we 
had taken too long on our ascent of the Spire Tip, and partly 
because I was bored and had no climbing partner for a mid-week 
trip, I set off to rope solo the route last July.

The Valley was a hot, swealtering, sticky, overcrowded 
nightmare. I couldn't for the life me figure out why so many 
people came to Yosemite Valley in the middle of July. It seemed 
miserable, and the crowds only doubled the displeasure.

When I had arrived the previous morning, it was too hot to 
climb. I fought my way through the flocks of tourists, ate some 
ice cream, bought a few more carabiners and a cheap watch 
which I set to go off at 3 a.m... and I gazed up hypnotically at 
that giant granite phallus.

As the day cooled off a bit, I waited for a short, straightforward 
crack climb to become available and then I set off on my first 
ever rope solo aid pitch. The crack was so good that it was 
virtually a bolt ladder. But then I knew that the route on the 
Spire would not have any real technical difficulties either.

I had settled into the picnic area at the Church Bowl to cook my 
evening meal when I heard a loud roar. I thought it was a jet at 
first -- then after it continued for a moment, maybe thunder. But 
despite an eastern cloud buildup earlier in the afternoon, the sky 
was clear. And besides, the loud rumbling kept on going.

I stood up from the picnic table and strode out towards the road. 
Two people were looking out towards Glacier Point. There, from 
cliffs east of Curry Village, a rather large avalanche was in 
progress.

As with most such demonstrations of nature, the raw power of 
this event, even from our safe vantage point, was pretty 
impressive. An enormous piece of the granite wall had calved 
off and was falling thousands of feet. When it landed, a huge 
cloud of dust was forced far into the sky, eventually blotting out 
all views of Half Dome.

The sirens went off, and I wondered, even though it was early 
evening, how many unfortunate hikers were in that corridor. 
Certainly somebody was hurt or killed...

Rescue workers, who had only just left the adjoining meadow 
after a helicopter evacuation, began to reassemble. They looked 
tired and resigned to a long night of work. As the curious 
gathered to stare out at the giant dust cloud, I laid out my little 
pile of gear next to my car, crammed it into my pack, and then 
drove away to give the rescuers more room.

I managed a fitful night of sleep in the hot, filthy, buggy and 
humid woods above noisy Sunnyside. A small animal kept 
jiggling discarded tin cans in a crevice very near my head. Of 
course, the alarm went off far too soon and I was up and stuffing 
food in my mouth and hiking the trail. It all seemed like a really 
silly idea at 3:30 a.m.

When David and Bob and I had done the climb, we shared the 
route with a man who had climbed the Direct route with his 
friend. On a gear and beer run to the Valley, his friend had 
seriously twisted his knee on the trail. So this man was back to 
finish the last two pitches by himself. Watching him climb was 
fascinating. His movements were smooth and efficient, 
seemingly effortless.

In contrast, seeing us climb must have been like watching an old 
Three Stooges movie. "Hey Moe, you expect me to jug up this 
skinny rope?" "You knucklehead, you're standing in my aider!" 
"Woo-woo-woo! I thought you had the rack!" "Anybody seen my 
other Jumar?"

We had started off by rappelling into the notch with the rack 
still slung on a tree limb at the rim. Bob seemed very concerned 
about ascending an 8mm static line. One of my shiny new $50 
Jumars unclipped from my harness and dove off the Spire. We 
stopped climbing at the second belay and began a macrame 
project with our ropes. Performing a Tyrolean back to the rim 
appeared to be by far the most complicated task that has ever 
been performed. Hours passed.

So I was sure I could do better on my own. The leading and 
cleaning shouldn't take any longer, and a quick rap back to the 
start of each pitch shouldn't consume much time, right?

My self belay device was a clove hitch. This meant that to make 
progress I had to keep passing rope through the knot (or clip in a 
new knot and unclip the previous one). This technique, 
particularly on the little bit of free climbing required, turned out 
to be pretty slow going. In addition, the task of rope 
management was left entirely to me. Nobody was there to stack 
or tend the ropes as I climbed. A stuck rope while I was 100 feet 
up would be a major pain to deal with.

The first pitch went without too much fuss. There is a little bit 
of free climbing, but I never felt scared in my Five Tennies, 
which to me means about 5.6. The book says 5.8, but I think you 
can aid a little more or less in places. When David led it, he got 
his money's worth by mantling out of his aiders onto the Salathe 
Ledge. I timidly slotted nuts there instead.

Climbing up off the Salathe Ledge (really a big flake) towards 
the supposed crux of the climb, my carefully stacked lead rope 
fell off and threatened to wedge behind the flake. So I had to 
downclimb and restack it. More lost time.

Once up to the two A2 placements, I discovered to my 
annoyance that I had forgotten which pieces fit, even though I 
had led this section a few weeks earlier. As I fumbled with my 
gear, I noticed someone watching from the rim above the Falls. I 
stopped and waved. For a moment, my anxiety was gone. It was 
really fun to be hanging there off the side of the Spire.

Then a glance up at the returning clouds got me moving again. 
"Oh yeah, the #1 friend fits here like a glove". Then for the 
shallow scar, I pulled out the ace card -- a 0.5 tri-cam. Easy 
placements and a number of funky fixed pieces that appeared to 
have been scavenged from a junkyard led up to an optional belay 
point. It was here that the three of us had spent a good thirty 
minutes reorganizing gear and untangling ropes. Because there 
were three of us, we had broken the climb into as many pitches, 
but I had no need or reason to do so.

The bolt and rivet ladder that Bob had led was a lot of fun. I 
remembered looking up at him as he stuffed cams under the 
bulge and then swung over it and followed the remaining rivets 
to the top. It isn't hard, but it's dramatic -- and amazing that it is 
sometimes free climbed at a stout 5.12.

It looked like there was going to be some thunderstorm activity 
and I was keen to clean my gear and get off that granite 
lightning rod. As fast as I could, I got back down to the Salathe 
Ledge and starting jugging like a madman, clipping gear 
haphazardly back onto my rack and harness.

As I prepared for the first of three crossings via Tyrolean, I 
looked down at a pair of newly arrived climbers. A Yosemite 
guide with his client had hiked in from Tuolomne to climb the 
Tip. I replaced the 8.5mm rap rope with my lead rope so I could 
traverse on two full size ropes, and I carefully stacked it on top 
so it would feed as I made my first trip.

As soon as I lowered off the top, the whole thing just fell off and 
plummeted towards the two below. "Rope!!". Fortunately, it 
didn't reach them -- "Sorry! I'm still trying to figure this stuff 
out!". "That's okay.". I started across, seeking a rhythm and also 
trying not to feel too scared. I kept looking at the anchor, the 
knots, my harness, the rope itself -- I didn't trust anything.

I stopped and looked down at the two preparing to climb. "Aren't you 
guys worried about rain?!" "YES!!", came the nervous response. I 
pulled up onto the rim and felt a strange mixture of relief and 
anxiety. I was back, but my ropes weren't. I tied off the one I'd 
dragged and traversed back again. I looked down, but the two were 
already around the corner, working very quickly on the climb.

When I got back to the Spire, I realized my blunder in a 
moment. A stream of obscenities alerted the guide's wife who 
was watching from the rim. "Are you okay? Are you stuck over 
there?" The thought of being trapped on the Spire in a 
thunderstorm sounded so unpleasant that it made my 
predicament seem too trivial to warrant a fuss. But it irritated 
me just the same. "No, I just didn't pass my rope through the 
anchors. I'll have to leave a couple carabiners on top." I knew I 
could also do two more traverses, but with the weather 
deteriorating, I thought the price of two carabiners -- even the 
overblown lockers that I chose -- was a small price to pay.

I made the final traverse, and with much grunting and groaning and 
with the help of a jumar, I pulled my stubborn ropes through the 
carabiners on the Spire and back to the rim. The two below had 
decided to rap back to the notch and jug out -- it had begun to rain 
and there were rumblings of electrical activity in the distance.

Coiling my ropes and stowing my gear, the weather and the light 
rain now felt harmless, even pleasant. I chatted with the guide's 
wife and yelled to the guide about my shiny lockers on top. I 
couldn't tell if he was more disappointed about bailing off the 
climb or missing out on the booty.

My huge pack wasn't much fun to carry down the trail, and I felt 
rather dubious about my little adventure. But I knew there was 
beer, food and a nap waiting for me down below. Half way 
down, with my body rebelling, I was passed by a dayhiker babe 
in a halter top and short shorts. Somehow, I managed to 
practically jog after her. Just keeping her in sight was motivation 
for me to keep moving.

As it turned out, it took me only about 30 minutes less time to 
climb the thing as it had when I was with Bob and David. 
Hardly a success from that perspective. And I found out that 
rope soloing added a stress to climbing that, for me, stole away 
some of the fun. I'm not sorry I did it, but it did seem a little silly 
in a way. And I just might do it again. 

- Jim Curl


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Mt Tallac
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

On 6th April 97, the three of us, Scott Kreider, Marilyn Hurley 
and I, Arun Mahajan attempted Mt Tallac (9735 ft) in the 
Desolation Wilderness in the South Lake Tahoe region.

As per the USFS (Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit), you 
need a permit even for day use, so we went to their office at 870 
Emerald Bay Rd and wrote ourselves one. The small turn off for 
the Tallac trailhead on 89 is easy to spot but the access road is a 
little broken up and bumpy, but we could still get to the 
trailhead in my car. Ours was the only one there. It turned out 
that there was a box at the trailhead with blank permit forms too.

The snow started right away. We stuck mostly to what would 
have been the Mt Tallac trail, had it not been obscured by the 
snow. The snow was well consolidated, and we were not 
postholing, and we did not need to use snowshoes which 
remained a dead-weight throughout the trip. The trail sticks to 
the top of a ridge that runs north to south with great views of 
Fallen Leaf Lake. As we broke through the forest, we saw 
another group heading up the steep eastern bowl. Even though 
that route offers almost direct access to the summit, we passed. 
We went over the mildly steep ridge of Tallac that runs from 
north to the south-east and then headed up the backside. The 
snow was hard and icy in places but we did not need crampons 
or axe, ski poles were enough.

After a little over four hours from the trailhead, we were at the 
summit. Some clouds were building up, but we had great views 
of Dick's Peak, Pyramid Peak and the almost perfectly circular 
Lake Gilmour. We could make out Roundtop and what we 
thought was Freel Peak.

If the summit had register, then we did not see it.

The journey back was a little quicker (less than 3 hours) due to a 
couple of exciting glissades and we also used the long run-outs 
to practice some ice-axe techniques. On a colder day, an axe and 
crampons would have been really needed, but that day the sun 
was warm and the snow soft enough to obviate that. 

- Arun Mahajan


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1997 Advance Trip List
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

PLEASE DO NOT CONTACT THE LEADERS TO SIGN UP 
FOR THESE TRIPS. This list is intended to prevent trip 
scheduling conflicts and to help you plan your summer, NOT to 
enable people to sign up way in advance. If you are planning a 
trip, and if you change your plans or can't get a permit, please 
contact the Scree Editor to keep this list up to date.

Date	Peak(s)	Class	Leader(s)

Jun 21-22	Red Slate couloir	3	Schuman/Schafer
Jul 3-8	Goddard, McGee, Emerald, Hermit,etc	2,3,3,5	Suzuki/Eckert/Schafer
Jul 12-13	Mt. Dade	2	(withheld)
Jul 19-20	Humphreys, Emerson	4	Suzuki/Harris
Jul 19-20	Mt. Clark	3-4	Maas/Schafer
Jul 25-27	Kearsarge, University, Indep	3	Schuman
Aug 2-3	Matterhorn Pk, Whorl Mtn.	2,4	Schafer
Aug 8-10	Mt. Haeckel, Mt. Wallace	3	Kirkpatrick/Keith
Aug 9-10	Virginia Peak, Twin Peaks	3	Bulger
Aug 15-18	Mt. Whitney, Mt. Russell	5/3,3	Schafer/Ramaker
Aug 30-1	Clarence King, Gardner	5	Schafer
Sep 5-7	Banner Peak, Mt. Ritter	3	Harris
Sep 12-14	Mt. Gabb	2	Maxwell
Sep 13-14	Tehipite Dome	3	Suzuki/Schafer
Sep 19-21	Mt. Russell	3	(withheld)
Sep 20-21	Mt. Morrison, Mt. Baldwin	3	Fitzsimmons/Suzuki
Sep 20-21	Koip Peak, Gibbs, Dana	2	Schuman/Magliocco
Oct 4-5	Needham, Sawtooth, Vandever	3	Schuman
Oct 18-19	Koip Peak, Ragged Peak	3	Suzuki


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Unofficial (Private) Trips
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Private trips may be submitted directly to the Scree Editor, 
but are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra 
Club. They are listed here because they may be of interest to 
PCS members, not because they are endorsed by the PCS.


*** Lassitude
Peak:	Mt. Lassen (10,000 +)	snow
Date:	May 3	Sat
Contact:	George Van Gorden	408-779-2320

We will meet  at the old ski lodge moderately early Sat. and go to 
the top and back in one day. Snowshoes or skis, axe and crampons.


*** Williamson, by George!
Peak:	Mt. Williamson (14,375 feet)	class 2
Dates:	May 2-4	Fri-Sun
Map:	Williamson 7.5 min
Contact:	Tony Cruz 	408-944-2003	cruz@idt.com
Co-Contact:	Rich Calliger	415-424-0480	rcalliger@siliconengines.com

This is the second highest peak in the Sierra and the most 
awesome when viewed while driving south on Highway 395. The 
objective is the highest of the three summits and the route is the 
SE ridge from George Creek. Ice ax and crampons are required 
and winter camping experience is desirable. The George Creek 
approach is a long bushwhack. We will depart from the George 
Creek trailhead at the crack of dawn, May 3.


*** Maggie and Moses with Miya
Peaks:	Maggie and Moses	class 1-2, ice axe
Dates:	May 10-11	Sat-Sun
Contact:	Eugene Miya	415-961-6772

Maggie and Moses are to Sequoia National Park as Sing and 
Gale are to Yosemite National Park -- immediately outside and 
south of the park. Maggie and Moses are in Mountain Home 
State Forest and not part of the Sierra crest. So what's their 
significance? These two talus heaps were proposed as an 
alternate to the proposed Mineral King ski resort. When Mineral 
King was rejected, neither the USFS nor Disney retained interest 
in developing a ski area. 

*** Shasta-Hotlum-Bolum
Peak:	Mt. Shasta  (14,162')	snow
Dates:	May 24-26	Sat-Mon
Contact:	George Van Gorden	408-779-2320 before 9pm

We will climb the mountain from the north side by the way of the 
Hotlum-Bolum ridge.  On the summit day we will do about 4700 
Vertical on moderate snow.  Crampons and ice axe experience 
required.  Great sunsets from the camp, despair and angst on 
ascent  and hierophany on descent possible.


*** Slated for Red and White
Peak: Red Slate (13163) Red&White (12816) snow/class 3
Dates:	May 31-June 1	Sat-Sun
Maps:	Mt Morrison, Mt Abbot 15' topos
Contact:	Bob Suzuki	(>8pm) H 408-259-0772
	bobszk@pacbell.net	W 510-657-7555
Co-Contact: Arun Mahajan	H 408-244-7912
	arun@sentientnet.com	W 408-473-8029

This strenuous 2-peak weekend will start from the McGee Pass 
trailhead, 10 miles southeast of Mammoth Lakes. Saturday we'll 
backpack in to Little McGee Lake, setup camp and climb Red 
Slate for a total first day's gain of over 5000'. Sunday's climb of 
the northeast ridge of Red and White will be easier with less than 
2000' of gain, but may involve ascending steep snow and loose 
rock. Limited to 8 experienced climbers; ice axe, crampons and 
snowshoes.


*** Simply Silliman
Peak:	Mt Silliman (11188')	class-2
Dates:	June 7-8	Sat-Sun
Maps:	Triple Divide Peak (15') or Mt Silliman (7.5')
Contact:	Siamak Navid	707-577-4845	sia@sr.hp.com

We will start hiking on trail at Lodgepole (Sequoia NP) on Sat, 
June 7th. Our tentative camp for Sat night is at Twin Lakes 
(9500") which makes the hike about 8 miles with 2500' of gain. 
Depending on the conditions, going off-trail and camping closer to 
the peak might also be an option. We will attempt the peak and 
return to the trailhead on Sunday. 

*** Williamson
Peak:	Mt. Williamson (14,375')	class 2/3
Dates:	June 20-22	Fri-Sun
Map:	Mt. Williamson 7.5'
Contact:	Debbie Benham	415-964-0558	dmbenham@aol.com

We will depart 6am, Friday, the 20th, from the Shepard Pass 
Trailhead. The Shepherd Pass trail is long, steep and strenuous 
with 500' of loss and gain mid-way to the pass. Saturday, we'll 
get an alpine start and ascend via the Bolton Brown route. Ice 
axe and crampons required. Sunday, we'll head on out. Permit for 
six. $3 permit-fee deposit required. Those who have expressed 
an interest need to re-contact Debbie - thanks! 


*** Milling About Dade
Peaks:	Mt Dade (13,600'), Mt Mills (13,451')	class 4
Dates:	June 21-22	Sat-Sun
Map:	Mt Abbot 7.5' quad
Contact:	Kai Wiedman	415-347-5234
Co-Contact:	Bob Suzuki	408-259-0772	bobszk@pacbell.net

Scenic Little Lakes Valley will be the setting for our adventure. 
We will attempt at grand traverse of Mt Dade by climbing 
moderate snow and ice on the north face which will lead us to a 
4th class rock rib. From here we will follow the hideously exposed 
northwest ridge to the summit and down the Hourglass Couloir to 
Treasure Lakes. The climb will take place on Saturday for it's only 
a 3.5 mile hike in. Sunday brunch or possible climb of Mt Mills.


*** SPS TRIP: Izaak Walton and Silver
Peaks:	Izaak Walton (12077), Silver (11878)	class 3
Dates:	Jun 21-23	Sat-Mon
Leader:	Steve Eckert	eckert@netcom.com
Co-Leader:	Ron Hudson

Listed with the Angeles Chapter: 30+ mile Tiger Trip! We'll carry 
ice axes for some probable spring snow chutes, but most of the 
trip will be on dry land (assuming a normal snowfall). We'll try to 
finish in 2 days, with a third day just in case, so pack light for a 
fast pace! Restricted to Sierra Club members. Send email or 
SASE with recent experience to leader to sign up.


*** Split Mountain And Other Peaks
Peaks:	Split, Tinemaha, Prater, Bolton Brown	class 1-3
Dates:	June 28 - July 4	Sat-Fri
Contact:	Debbie Bulger	408-457-1036

Now that I have a four-wheel drive vehicle, I'm ready for the 
much- discussed ride to the trailhead of this impressive 
fourteener south of Big Pine. The first day we'll hike to Red Lake 
and set up base camp. Sunday we climb Split Mountain (14,058, 
class 1-2). On Monday, we'll climb Mt. Tinemaha (12,561, class 
1-2), then hike over the Sierra Crest into Kings Canyon National 
Park, moving our camp to Lake 11,599. From there we'll ascend 
Mt. Prater (13,329, class 1-2) and Mt. Bolton Brown (13,638, 
class 2-3) and still have time to explore. Ice axe required. 
Crampons strongly recommended. Weekenders who wish to 
climb only Split are welcome, however preference will be given to 
those opting for the whole trip. A $5 check reserves your place. 
Call leader to be sure there is room.


*** Evolution, Goddard Divide and Black Divide Peaks
Peaks:	misc	class 2-3
Dates:	July 1-6	Tue-Sun
Map:	Mt Goddard 15 min
Trailhead:	Lake Sabrina
Contact:	John Bees	H 702-851-0949
	jbees@maxey.dri.edu	W 702-673-7381
Co-Contact:	NEEDED	

Let's start the summer season off to a bang by climbing as many of 
the Muir Pass area peaks as possible over a long July 4th weekend.  
We'll get six days of climbing with only three days off work. We'll start 
from Lake Sabrina and go over Echo Col (class 3; 12,400') the first 
day and set up a basecamp in the Helen Lake/Muir Pass area.  Over 
the next four days we'll  climb as many of these peaks as we can: Mt 
Goddard (class 2; 13,568'), Charybdis (class 3; 13,096'), Scylla 
(class 2; 12,956'), MacDuffie (class 3; 13,282'), Fiske (class 2; 
13,503'), Powell (class 2; 13,360+'), Haeckel (class 3; 13,418')   
Primary importance are Mt Goddard, Charybdis, and McDuffie.  
Leader flexible for other alternative peaks.  Ice axes will probably be 
necessary depending on snow and weather conditions.   Group 
currently limited to four experienced and ambitious climbers but 
additional permit slots may be available.


*** Mt. Ansel Adams
Peak:	Mt. Ansel Adams (11,760+)	class 3
Dates:	July 3-6	Thur-Sun
Map:	Mt. Lyell 7.5
Leader:	Jim Curl	415-585-1380	jimcurl@juno.com

Remote and rarely visited, Mt. Ansel Adams is a spectacular peak in 
the Yosemite backcountry. From Tuolumne Meadows, 19 miles of 
trail lead up and over Vogelsang Pass to the Lyell Fork of the Merced 
River. A few more off-trail miles up this drainage lead to a lovely 
collection of lakes below the peak. Permit is for 6. Ice axe experience 
required. Relatively strong hikers preferred (endurance more 
important than speed). For reference, read Jim Ramaker's report of 
last July's successful trip in the September 1996 Scree. 


*** The Minarets
Peaks: The Minarets, around 12000'	class 4-5
Dates:	July 4-6
Contact:	Peter Maxwell	408-737-9770
Co-Contact:	Paul Scheidt	408-439-9204

The Minarets comprise the delightfully jagged crest close to Ritter and 
Banner, seen from Highway 395. Ever wondered what it would be like 
to be on the SUMMIT of one of them? That's what we aim to find out. 
We'll explore several of the summits over the weekend, with 
difficulties ranging from class 4 up to 5.7 or so. All the climbs will be 
roped, and will be suitable only for experienced climbers. 


*** Mt. Ritter From The Back Side
Peaks: 	Ritter (13150'), Banner (12943')	class 2, snow
Dates:	July 14-19	Mon-Sat
Trailhead:	Agnew Meadows
Contact:	Alan Ritter	314-225-7600 x5362	jar@storz.com

Leave Agnew Meadows Monday, 14 July, camp near Thousand 
Island Lake, then hike over North Glacier Pass and on down to Ritter 
Lakes on 7/15. Approach is on-trail (10 mi) to 1,000 I., off-trail (2 mi) 
from there. Secor's western approach is Class 2.	If assault on Mt. 
Ritter succeeds 7/16, we may give neighboring Banner Peak a try 
7/17, before hiking back out 7/18-7/19.	Ice axe and crampons 
required. Snow camping possible at 1,000 I. very probable at Ritter 
Lakes. Reference last summer's trip report:	
	http://reality.sgi.com/csp/pcs/Reports/ritter9606.html


*** Mt. Sill
Peak:	Mt. Sill (14,162)	class 2-3
Dates:	July 18-20	Fri-Sun
Map:	Mt. Goddard 15
Contact:	Bill Kirkpatrick	408-293-2447	3780631@mcimail.com
Co-Contact:	Alex Keith	415-325-1091	akeith@crc.ricoh.com

Starting at South Lake (10,000') we will follow the trail over 
Bishop Pass (about 12,000') then cross-country over 
Thunderbolt Pass (12,400') to camp in the Palisade Basin 
(11,600'). On Saturday we will ascend Mt. Sill through Potluck 
Pass and the Polemonium Glacier Basin. We will retrace our 
steps to the cars on Sunday. This route requires a long grind on 
Friday and the possibility of Class-3 climbing on Saturday. Permit 
for Six. Waiver required. 


*** Palisades Part Two
Peak:	Norman Clyde (13920+')	class 3-4
Date:	July 27-28	Sun-Mon
Maps:	Split Mountain 7.5' quad
Contact:	David Harris	415-497-5571	harrisd@leland.stanford.edu
Co-Contact:	John Bees	702-851-0949	jbees@maxey.dri.edu

After Thunderbolt and a short night of sleep in the desert, we'll attack 
imposing Norman Clyde from the South Fork of Big Pine Creek. 
Carrying light packs and bivy gear, we'll race up to Finger Lake before 
the Dreaded Mosquitoes of Big Pine Creek eat us alive, then attempt 
to locate the class 3-4 route up the North-Northeast Ridge. If we stay 
on route, we may be able to dayhike the peak.  If not, we'll plan to 
bivvy somewhere on the peak and finish Monday morning. Ice axe, 
crampons, harness required, climbing shoes may be helpful. Group 
limited to four fast, experienced mountaineers.


*** Colorado 14ers
Peaks:	misc	class 1-3
Dates:	Aug 1-10	Fri-Sun
Contact:	George Van Gorden	408-779-2320 before 9pm
Co-Contact:	Bill Kirkpatrick	408-293-2447

We will climb four or five 14er's. We will arrange a meeting time 
at Denver or Colorado Springs airport (depending upon air fares), 
rent a car and drive from peak to peak. although not to the top. 
Among the peaks we climb will be Elbert which is the highest 
mountain in Colorado and Longs Peak by the well-traveled 
Keyhole route. As a group we will select the other peaks, 
considering distance, difficulty and Colorado's unpredictable 
summer weather. Nothing will be harder than Class 3 and much 
will be on trail.


*** Brewer By Bubb
 Peak:	Mt Brewer (13,570')	class 2
 Date:	Aug 22-24	Fri-Sun
 Map:	USGS Mt Brewer 7.5'
 Contact:	Bill Kirkpatrick	408-293-2447	3780631@MCIMAIL.COM
 Co-Contact:	Alex Keith	415-325-1091	akeith@crc.ricoh.com

Starting at Road's End in King's Canyon (elev 5,000') we will 
follow the long trail along Bubb's Creek to East Lake (9,500') 
early Friday morning, ascend the peak the next day, and return 
by the same route on Sunday. Secor says that Brewer has a ".. 
wide, unobstructed view in all directions from its summit." A good 
trip for first-time peak climbers with prior back-packing 
experience. Permit for six. 


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Notes and Requests
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

*** Mt. Vicarious

If you're not already aware, a current Mt. Everest expedition is 
sending back near-real-time pictures/text via uplink to the Web. 
The site is at: http://www.pbs.org/nova/everest

- Mark D Adrian 

Here's the opening text, shamelessly stolen from the website:

> Take on the ultimate challenge to mind and body and climb Mt. 
> Everest, the highest point on earth. NOVA takes you there, online, 
> with a team of four elite climbers who will continue to track their 
> mental and physical state -- even as they enter the infamous Death 
> Zone above 26,000 feet. Their story appears here, in real-time, and 
> in a NOVA film to be broadcast next winter. 


*** Asolo Poseiden Mountaineering Boots

I have a pair of Asolo Poseiden Mountaineering Boots for SALE. 
I bought them last year and wore them on 4 mountaineering 
trips. They're almost new except for a slight scratch from my 
crampon on the left boot. I'm selling them because I've recently 
bought a pair of Asolo AFS Guide (Plastic Boots) for my trip to 
Aconcagua. If I had known I'd be going there last year I would 
have bought them instead. Oh well! The boots except step-in or 
strap on crampons. I've used both with great success. 

Here are the particulars: Leather Mountaineering Boots, Black, 
Size 9-US, $95.00 or B.O. Reply via e-mail or call 415-424-3290.

- Michael A. Rinaldi 


*** Climbing Gear Safety Recalls

If you have a web browser, and if you have climbing gear, check 
out  for some 
eye openers. Did you know that Ed Leeper bolt hangers are 
cracking under rappel loads? Other brands also. Killing people. 
Grivel Rambo Crampons have toe bails that break when it's 
cold, Black Prophet Bent Shaft ice tools are breaking, Metolius 
3D Harness buckles cut the webbing, and PMI Dynamic 8.8mm 
Ropes kink during rappels. Climb safely.


*** Grand Teton RFI

I am going to be heading to Wyoming to climb the Grand Teton 
in July and was wondering if anyone else had done it.  Well, I 
guess I didn't think it would be a first ascent - but does anyone 
have any info. to share regarding the climb and 
recommendations for routes, maps, guidebooks . . . I heard that a 
rope/tech gear was necessary for the last pitch. Thanks.

- Kevin Flynn 


*** Camp 5 Expeditions RFI

If anyone has had any experience with Camp 5 Expeditions 
(operated by Greg Grant and Alan Burgess, and headquartered 
in Salt Lake City) or knows of anyone who has had such 
experience, I would appreciate hearing your views or comments 
on the quality of the trips Camp 5 Expeditions runs. Thanks.

- Mark Wallace 


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE BACK PAGE
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Scree is the monthly journal of the Peak Climbing Section of the Sierra Club, Loma Prieta Chapter.


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Elected Officials
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Chair:
	Warren Storkman / pcs_chair@kaweah.mti.sgi.com
	415-493-8959 home, 415-493-8975 fax
	4180 Mackay Drive, Palo Alto, CA 94306

Vice Chair and Trip Scheduler:
	Jim Ramaker / pcs_scheduler@kaweah.mti.sgi.com
	408-224-8553 home, 408-463-4873 work,
	188 Sunwood Meadows Place, San Jose CA 95119-1350

Treasurer and Membership Roster (address changes):
	George Van Gorden / pcs_treasurer@kaweah.mti.sgi.com
	408-779-2320 home
	830 Alkire Avenue, Morgan Hill, CA 95037


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Appointed Positions
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TEMPORARY Scree Editor, JUNE ISSUE ONLY:
	Tony Cruz / pcs_editor@kaweah.mti.sgi.com
	408-446-4090 home
	1009 November Drive, Cupertino CA  95014

PCS World Wide Web Publisher:
	Aaron Schuman / pcs_webmaster@kaweah.mti.sgi.com
	415-933-1901, http://reality.sgi.com/csp/pcs/index.html
	223 Horizon Avenue, Mountain View, CA 94043-4718


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Subscriptions
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Hardcopy subscriptions are $10. Subscription applications and checks
payable to "PCS" should be mailed to the Treasurer so they arrive before
the last Tuesday of the expiration month. If you are on the PCS email
broadcast, you have a free EScree subscription. For broadcast info, send
Email to  with the one-line message
   INFO lomap-peak-climbing
EScree subscribers should send a subscription form to the Treasurer to
become voting PCS members at no charge. All subscribers are requested to
send a donation of $2/year to cover operating expenses other than printing
the Scree, which is on the PCS web site (as both plain text and postscript).


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Rock Climbing Classifications
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The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing 
trips for which you are qualified. No simple rating system can 
anticipate all possible conditions.
	Class 1: Walking on a trail.
	Class 2: Walking cross-country, using hands for balance.
	Class 3: Requires use of hands for climbing, rope may be used.
	Class 4: Requires rope belays.
	Class 5: Technical rock climbing.


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In Upcoming Issues:
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Trip reports: Mt Russell, Upper Kern, Southern Sawtooth, Tin Mtn, Mt Lola, Mt Morgan.
(Please limit trip reports to one page if possible.)



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Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 5/25/97.
Meetings are the second Tuesday of each month.
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"Vy can't ve chust climb?" - John Salathe	First Class Mail - Dated Material

(end of EScree - May 1997)