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Scree for March, 1997

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This is the EScree - the Electronic version of the Scree newsletter from
the Peak Climbing Section of the Loma Prieta Chapter of the Sierra Club.
It should be viewed or printed with a fixed-pitch font such as Courier.
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     This publication may not be posted on any public news group.
                     March, 1997   Vol. 31, No. 3
    Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 3/23/97.
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Next meeting (PCS meetings are the second tuesday of each month)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tuesday, March 11
Time: 8:00 PM
Location: Western Mountaineering Town & Country Village, San Jose
Program: A Snowy Summer in Baffinland

Have you been intrigued by pictures of big wall climbing
in Canada's High Arctic?  Slides from Bill and Dana
Isherwood's sea kayaking adventure off northern Baffin
Island last summer show some of the untouched climbing
potential this region has to offer.  The walls, however, will
probably remain untouched if the weather pattern of last
summer repeats itself.  Come see for yourself the
exploration, climbing, and adventuring possibilities of this
intriguing landscape."

- Bill Isherwood


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How to Announce Trips in Scree (please clip and save)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If you want to announce a future trip in Scree/EScree, first
decide if it will be an official Sierra Club PCS trip or a private
trip without Club insurance. If it's private, send it to the Scree
editor via e-mail or US Mail:

    Steve Eckert
    1814 Oak Knoll Drive
    Belmont, CA 94002-1753
    pcs_editor@kaweah.mti.sgi.com

If it's an official PCS trip, send it to the PCS Scheduler via e-
mail or US Mail:

   Jim Ramaker
   188 Sunwood Meadows Place
   San Jose, CA 95119
   pcs_scheduler@kaweah.mti.sgi.com

Please submit trip reports in the following format, so your
overworked PCS officers don't have to reformat them for you.
Include a trip title (or risk having one made up for you), a brief
description (50-75 words) that will attract qualified people to
sign up on your trip. Include details such as the level of
experience required, the group size allowed, the area where the
peak is located, or anything else that trip applicants will need to
know. Here's a sample trip announcement, somewhat
plagiarized from a past Scree:

> *** Ambling up Mt Anywhere
> Peak:         Mt. Anywhere (15,760)   class 3
> Dates:                July 4-7 Thur-Sun
> Map:          Bargewater Flats 7.5 min.
> Leader:               Joe Organizer   999-999-9999    rokjok@abc.com
> Co-Leader:    Jane Realbrains 999-999-9999  rokqueen@xyz.com
>
> This peak is a spectacular sight from the road,
> but the real attraction of this area lies in the
> remote, sublime beauty of the peaks, lakes, and
> views. Some of the most spectacular scenery in
> the Park is found in this area with its vast
> sweeping panoramas. Our trip will take us 22
> miles into this rugged and remote landscape. Come
> join us for this once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Remember that for some trailheads you can reserve permits 6
months in advance. Some trailheads on the west side have no quota
until the end of June, which (along with other interesting notes) is
mentioned in a PCS reference file, containing phone numbers,
mailing addresses, quota dates, etc. To get this file, and a nicely
formatted plain-text copy of the SPS peaks list, just send email to
 with one or both of these lines in the
message:
   GET Ranger.Contacts
   GET Sierra.Peaks-List

Please do us all a favor: As you contact rangers for trailhead info and
permits, check these files and see if they're current. If not, send
updates to me and we'll all have a better resource to work with. Don't
be selfish and use it without improving it!

- Steve Eckert 


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Guidelines For Leaders And Followers
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

     Editor's Note: The text below was attached to a memo
     from Chris MacIntosh, the Loma Prieta Chapter Activities
     Coordinator. You should note that Item 9 prohibits use of
     all radios, which would include GPS location finders,
     HAM and CB emergency radios, cell phones, and
     avalanche transceivers, in addition to tape players and
     game cards. Item 7 could be construed to discourage use
     of butane and propane canister stoves, but is probably
     aimed at campfires. Other items (such as Item 6 about
     carpool fees) seem to be more reasonable.

The following have been adopted by the Activities Committee
for outings conducted under Chapter auspices. These guidelines
appear from time to time in the centerfold (activities listings) of
the Loma Prietan. "Trail", "trailhead", and "trip" should be
considered generic terms for "route" (if any), "starting or
meeting point", and "event".

1. It can be unpleasant and dangerous to join a trip for which you are
not qualified. If in doubt, discuss your capabilities and experience
honestly with the trip leader.

2. If interested in a trip and advance sign-ups are required,
contact the leader early.

3. Inform the leader as quickly as possible if you must cancel.

4. The responsibility for getting to the trailhead ON TIME is
yours - the leader does not have to wait.

5. The leader may assist in arranging transportation to the
trailhead but is not required to do so. The official trip begins and
ends at the trailhead unless explicit (and unusual) arrangements
to the contrary have been made. The Sierra Club does not
arrange or have responsibility for car pools.

6. Car pools are encouraged. Each rider is expected to reimburse
the driver at a rate of $0.05-0.10/mile. If this is not satisfactory,
another rate should be negotiated before departure.

7. Gasoline stoves should be used wherever possible for
backcountry cooking.

8. Pets are not permitted except on trips where it has been
explicitly stated that they are permitted - and then only with the
express permission of the leader.

9. Radios (and other electronic entertainment devices) and
firearms are not permitted.

10. Smokers should be both safe and courteous. There is to be no
smoking on trails. Smoking is permitted only during rest stops
where it is safe to do so and in accordance with legal limitations
and those established by the leader. Smokers should carry all their
cigarette butts out.

11. Impact problems noted during the trip should be brought to
the attention of the leader.

12. If the trip passes through private land, respect the owner's
rights.

13. Carry out all garbage.

- Loma Prieta Chapter Activities Committee


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1996 End-of-Year Treasurer's Report
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The PCS remains in good financial health, especially considering
that we reduced the subscription fee for Scree from $12 to $10 in
April 1996 (17% decrease). Total expenses for the year were
$1824, total income was $1743, and our cash balance decreased
from $1504 to $1423 (down 4%).

Membership increased by 24 (12%), from 196 to 220,
compared to a decline of 1 in 1995, thus showing that our
outreach efforts and our presence on the Internet are starting
to bring membership growth.

The number of hardcopy subscribers decreased from 171 to
159, as the number of online (EScree) members shot up from
25 to 61. An additional 300 or so people subscribe to EScree
but are not members of the PCS.

The PCS traditionally calculates its net worth by pretending
that the club disbands at the end of the year and refunds pro
rata shares of unused subscriptions to its members. Such an
analysis shows a required refund of $857, which when
compared to our cash balance of $1423, leaves the PCS with a
net worth of $566. While still substantial, this is a decline of
24% during the year, from a net worth of $744 on 12/31/95.

Another way of calculating our financial health yields similar
results. Cost of printing and mailing the hardcopy Scree
averaged $.88 per issue during 1996, while on 11/01/96
(latest figures available) we owed a total of 1028 issues to paid
subscribers. Thus we had a total liability of $905 at that time,
which suggests a positive net worth of $518.

Outlook: The number of hardcopy subscribers may continue
to decline as more and more members use the Internet, and
since well over 90% of the PCS budget relates to the hardcopy
Scree, we can expect income and expenses to decline also. On
the other hand, maintaining a high-quality hardcopy Scree is
essential for attracting new members, for serving non-Internet
users, and for reading in bed or sleeping bag.

The cost of printing and mailing 12 issues of the hardcopy
Scree averaged $10.57 per subscriber in 1996, somewhat
more than the $10 subscription fee. This difference, coupled
with some non-Scree related expenses listed below, explains
the slight decline in our financial position during the year.
This decline, combined with slowly rising production costs,
and the need for some longer issues in late summer/early fall
1997 to handle the abundance of trip reports at that time,
means that the subscription fee will probably need to go back
to $12 by late 1997 in order to preserve our financial health.
An alternative is to keep the subscription fee at $10 by
reducing the length of Scree every month in order to cut costs.

That's all I have to report. Detailed figures for the 4th quarter
and for the calendar year are below. Believe it or not, being
the PCS treasurer has been fun! Thanks and "see you at a
meeting, on the net, or in the mountains."

- Jim Ramaker


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1996 Annual Financial Report (1/01/96 - 12/31/96)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Checkbook balance 1/01/96                  $1504
Expenses
   Print & mail 12 issues of Scree  1681
   Refreshments                       63
   Travel money for one slide show    20
   Bank service charges               60
                                    ----
   Total expenses 1/01-12/31        1824
Income
   Scree subscriptions              1668
   Refund of bank service charges     36
   Excess food donations              19
   Correct 1995 checkbook error       20
                                    ----
   Total income 1/01-12/31          1743
Net loss for year                            (81)
                                            ----
Checkbook balance 12/31/96                  1423

- Jim Ramaker


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Shasta Mini-Report
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Tim Hult and I went out to test some gear and some techniques, and
Sargent's Ridge on Shasta seemed as good a place as any! We
camped at the saddle just over 11000' on the ridge, behind a wall of
snow blocks cut with my home-brew snow saw. Saturday was dead
calm after Friday's wind. Both days were clear, but memories of Kai's
many weather problems on this weekend (in years past) kept us worrying.

We got a fairly late start for the peak on Sunday, partly due to
wondering if the clouds would deliver the rain storms promised on
Tim's radio the night before. Lenticulars were forming just northeast
of the peak. We headed up anyway, with the agreement that
checking out a new route and getting in some high angle snow
practice was the REAL goal, not the peak. At one point I measured a
solid 50 degree slope, which would have been more comfortable in
hard ice than in the light styrofoam we had to kick into. (A pick-
based self arrest would NOT have worked here, but using the shaft
sort of like a canoe paddle was quite serviceable.)

The SERIOUS wind started just above Red Banks, where we met
two people coming down. They asked us to check up on their
partner, who they had STOOPIDLY abandoned on the summit
plateau. We set a goal of at least topping Misery Hill, but we were
being shoved around by the wind. Threading through the wind-
formed ice clods got to be too much when we could barely stand up.
Just after we donned goggles and turned around to face the wind, we
saw the lone climber coming down behind us. At Red Banks, we
nervously watched him STOOPIDLY glissade with crampons
directly above us in a narrow chute. Pick instead of point in the
snow, pick aimed at his body, crampon spikes ready to hook and flip
him out of control... this earned a good tongue-lashing as we related
other incidents like the one reported here by Bob Gross last year. We
saw his two partners heading for their tent on Cassaval Ridge later,
but never saw him again.

The hike down was uneventful, but it started snowing just as we
reached the parking lot. Lightning and rain followed us to
Redding as we congratulated ourselves for doing a Fri-Sun
weekend instead of a Sat-Mon (which would have seen us at
11000' in a howling snowy storm).

- Steve Eckert


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1997 Advance Trip List
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The trips listed below were proposed at the trip leaders' meeting
on Jan. 23. PLEASE DO NOT CONTACT THE LEADERS TO
SIGN UP FOR THESE TRIPS.  The time to sign up is after the
trip is formally announced in the Scree, with a full description
and a designation as a private or official PCS trip. Many of these
trips are contingent on obtaining permits, and plans for some of
them will change.

This list is intended to prevent trip scheduling conflicts and to
help you plan your summer, NOT to enable people to sign up
way in advance. If you are planning a trip, and if you change
your plans or can't get a permit, please contact the Scree Editor
to keep this list up to date.

Class x-y means the climb is between class x and class y.  Class
x,y,z applies to multi-peak trips where the peaks vary in difficulty.
Some leaders have requested that their names not be listed.



Date    Peak(s) Class   Leader(s)
Mar 8   Junipero Serra Pk (Big Sur)     1       Van Gorden
Mar 29-20       Argus (Death Valley)    2       Bulger
Apr 2-6 Mt. Whitney     2-3     Van Gorden
Apr 11-13       Lost Coast (No. Cal.)   1       Maas
May 3-4 Mt. Lassen      2       Van Gorden
May 10-11       Mt. Maggie, Mt. Moses   ?       Miya
May 17-18       Olancha Peak    2       Schuman
May 24-26       Mt. Shasta      3       Van Gorden
May 30-1        Red Slate, Red & White  3       Suzuki/Mahajan
Jun 6-8 Grand Canyon of Tuolumne        1       Schafer
Jun 14-15       Mt. Harrington  3       Maas
Jun 20-22       Mt. Williamson  3       (withheld)
Jun 21-22       Red Slate couloir       3       Schuman/Schafer
Jun 21-22       Mt. Dade, Mt. Mills     4       Suzuki/Wiedman
Jun 28-29       Split Mtn, Mt. Tinemaha 2       Debbie Bulger
Jun 30-31       Mt. Bolton Brown, Mt. Prater    3       Debbie Bulger
Jul 3-8 Goddard, McGee, Emerald, Hermit,etc     2,3,3,5 Suzuki/Eckert/Schafer
Jul 4-6 Minarets        5       (withheld)
Jul 12-13       Mt. Dade        2       (withheld)
Jul 18-20       Mt. Sill        2       Kirkpatrick/Keith
Jul 19-20       Humphreys, Emerson      4       Suzuki/Harris
Jul 19-20       Mt. Clark       3-4     Maas/Schafer
Jul 25-28       Thunderbolt, Norman Clyde       4-5     Harris
Jul 25-27       Kearsarge, University, Indep    3       Schuman
Aug 2-9 Colorado 14ers  3       Van Gorden
Aug 2-3 Matterhorn Pk, Whorl Mtn.       2,4     Schafer
Aug 8-10        Mt. Haeckel, Mt. Wallace        3       Kirkpatrick/Keith
Aug 9-10        Virginia Peak, Twin Peaks       3       Bulger
Aug 15-18       Mt. Whitney, Mt. Russell        5/3,3   Schafer/Ramaker
Aug 22-23       Mt. Brewer      3       Kirkpatrick/Keith
Aug 29-1        Dade, Abbot, Bear Cr Spire      2,3,4   Harris
Aug 30-1        Clarence King, Gardner  5       Schafer
Sep 5-7 Banner Peak, Mt. Ritter 3       Harris
Sep 12-14       Mt. Gabb        2       Maxwell
Sep 13-14       Tehipite Dome   3       Suzuki/Schafer
Sep 19-21       Mt. Russell     3       (withheld)
Sep 19-21       Mt. Morrison, Mt. Baldwin       3       Fitzsimmons/Suzuki
Sep 20-21       Koip Peak, Gibbs, Dana  2       Schuman/Magliocco
Oct 4-5 Needham, Sawtooth, Vandever     3       Schuman
Oct 18-19       Koip Peak, Ragged Peak  3       (withheld)


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Official (PCS) Trips
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

PCS trips must be submitted through the Scheduler (see
back cover for details). Trips not received from the
Scheduler will be listed as PRIVATE, without recourse.


*** Junipero Serra Peak
Peak:   Junipero Serra Peak (5900')     class 1
Date:   March 8 Sat
Leader: George Van Gorden       408-779-2320

The murmuring pines, the gnarled oaks, the woven skeletons of
chemise, they were on this summit when a Mutsen boy came
here and dug a pit from which, set with bait, he would reach out
and grab an eagle. We climb to imagine, though whether the
boy's grasping hand or the eagle's vainly beating wings . . . 12
miles, 4000' gain, good trail. (near Big Sur)


*** Hale-Bopp Comet Viewing
Peak:   Argus Peak (6562')      class 1
Dates:  March 29-30     Sat-Sun
Leader: Debbie Bulger   408-457-1036
Trip Astronomer: Richard Stover

Argus is a non-technical peak on the DPS list. It is rated Class 1, but
desert peaks are usually more difficult than Sierra peaks due to
rough terrain, thorny vegetation and 30 foot gullies which do not
show up on 40 foot contour interval maps. The desert should
provide good visibility (no city lights, no trees) for the promised-to-be
spectacular Hale-Bopp comet which should be at its peak of
brightness.

After a hard drive Friday (try to leave work early) we'll meet
north of Ridgecrest early Saturday morning to caravan to the
trail head. The climb is rated to take about 6 hours with a 3000
foot elevation gain. That will give us ample after dark time for
comet watching. Bring binoculars, lawn chairs, plenty of water
and a snack to share. Limited to 10 people.


*** Sunol Conditioning Hike
Place:  Sunol Regional Park (near Fremont)      class 1
Date:   April 5 Sat
Leader: Cecil Magliocco 408-358-1168    cecilm@ix.netcom.com
Co-Leader:      Vreni Rau       510-582-5578

Carpets of wildflowers will surround us on this 19-mile hike
from Del Valle Regional Park to Sunol Park.  Meet at Sunol at 8
a.m., at the first parking lot on the left after the entrance kiosk.
We'll shuttle over to Del Valle, hike back to Sunol, then shuttle
back to cars at Del Valle. To get to the hike, a carpool will meet
in Milpitas -- call for info.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I Climbed Crag Peak!  Almost...
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

January 25, 1997: This is February's edition of Don't Take Pat's
Route.  After contemplating for a week about what troubles I
could involve myself in during the upcoming weekend I picked
up some maps for some extreme southern Sierra destinations
like Sorrell Peak and Cross Mountain. After finding out that the
impending storm headed elsewhere I decided that I should climb
a "real" mountain, Crag Peak.

I left Reedley around 5 am and made Kennedy Meadows by
8:45, this time spotting the Chimney Peak Fire Station sign
before I passed it. Canebrake road wasn't in great shape beyond
the campground but the views more than made up for the bumpy
ride.

I was on the PCT at nine and around 9:30 I crossed the well
built bridge over the raging South Fork Kern River and then
headed northwest across a somewhat forested sage meadow
aiming for the saddle between peak 7945 and peak 9395. The
brush was absolutely horrendous, I'd never seen as many Live
Oaks in my life, and had never even seen one at that elevation.
Needless to say it took a while to get through. After a tough
climb up the ridge I found my self standing atop a giant outcrop
with an impressive view of the ridge I was trying to climb! After
struggling to find exactly where I was I headed north to the
summit of peak 7945. From here I could see the almost bare
summits of Deer Mountain and Olancha Peak. It was now past
11 and I was nowhere near my destination so I hurriedly had
lunch and then pressed on.

I then followed the ridge west and up the forested main ridge.
Here the snow became really deep and my extra large gaiters
weren't extra large enough, for every step I took the snow pushed
them up, sometimes above the rim of my boots. After losing an
hour trying to step carefully I discovered the root of problem,
which a pair of extra pack straps quickly solved.

By now the snow was completely melted and with every step I
sunk knee deep into the snow. I finally made it up something,
but not Crag peak. To the north were at least two higher crags,
possibly more. It was now 1:30 and there was no way I would
make any further progress without snow shoes. It was actually
getting warm so I headed downslope. The slope was noticeably
steep and the trip down to Clover Meadow took well over an
hour and a half.

Hiking through the meadow was far more enjoyable than
navigating the treacherous slopes of Crag and the wide open
views provided much needed relief from the intensive
concentration of past hours. When I reached Crag Creek I could
see that the ridge that meets up with the crag named on the
USFS map was not only snow free, but practically vegetation
free as well, contrary to what was shown on the map. After I
finished cursing I convinced my self that two peaks were better
than one, even if they weren't named, and headed south along
the trail.

With all the hard stuff under my belt I put on the cruise control
and headed towards the river. While I was thinking about things
like where to get gas, homework assignments, why my car's
cooling system works too well, and of course how much I
despise UC Davis, I made excellent time over the small
nameless saddle east of peak 7945. As I dreamt of doing awful
things to whomever concocted the quarter system, I missed a
turn in a faint spot in the trail and wandered south on a use trail
through my old friend the sage meadow.

At 3:45 I was standing on the west bank of the river...looking up
at the west face of a small peak. It then hit me that I missed the
bridge, and after the panic eased I got a good idea of where I
was. Half an hour and over a mile later, I spotted a narrow spot
in the river that would be an ideal spot for a bridge. The bridge
turned out to be a fallen tree. Again I headed north and a few
minutes later found the real bridge. I was back to the trailhead at
5, having completed another rewarding excursion in the High
Sierra.

- Pat Ibbetson


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PCS Trip Leaders Wanted
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Becoming a PCS trip leader is easier than you probably think.
The main requirement is climbing knowledge and experience.
Here's what you need to do to become a PCS trip leader:

1. Join the PCS and the Sierra Club if you haven't already.

2. Take a Red Cross-approved first aid class and obtain a Red
Cross first aid card.

3. Fill out the "Application for PCS Leadership" below.

4. Submit your completed application to the chair of the PCS
Mountaineering Committee:

      Tim Hult
      2256 Avenida de los Alumnos
      Santa Clara, CA  95054
      Phone: 408-970-0760 (H)
      E-mail: pcs_mtn_chair@kaweah.mti.sgi.com


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Application for PCS Leadership
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Name:

Address:

Phone numbers:

Sierra Club Number:

Are you over age 18?    Yes___    No___

Are you a PCS member?   Yes___    No___

What class of climb are you applying to lead?

   Class 1___   Class 2___   Class 3___   Class 4___   Class 5___

Are you also applying to lead winter climbing trips? Yes___   No___

Attach a photocopy of your Red Cross first aid card.

Please answer the two questions below in order to verify that
you have satisfied the requirements for leading the class of
climb that you have checked.  These requirements are listed
following the questions:

1. Summarize your climbing skills, navigational skills, and any
other information related to your mountaineering knowledge and
experience.


2. List the major peaks you have climbed.  For each one, include
the class of the climb, the name of the leader (if a PCS climb),
and whether you led the climb.


I hereby apply for leadership with the Sierra Club Loma Prieta
chapter Peak Climbing Section.


Signature_____________________________ Date___________


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Requirements for PCS Leadership
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Class One (walking on trail):

" At least eighteen years of age.  PCS and Sierra Club member
" Red Cross Multimedia First Aid or approved equivalent.
Mountain Medicine course conducted by Red Cross and
Sierra Club may be substituted at alternate renewal periods.
Class Two (walking cross-country; using hands for balance):
" Qualifications for class one
" Minimum two years mountain experience
" Demonstrated navigational ability
" Demonstrated sound judgment, mountaineering competence,
and leadership ability on two class two or harder PCS trips
or equivalent

Class Three (use of hands for balance while climbing):
" Qualifications for class two
" Recent experience with roped climbing, including belaying,
rappelling, knot tying, and/or anchor setting
" Recent experience with ice axe, crampons, self-arrest,
and/or ice-axe belay
" Demonstrated sound judgment, mountaineering competence,
and leadership ability on two class three or harder PCS trips
or equivalent

Class Four (use of rope for belays):
" Qualifications for class three
" Knowledgeable and experienced in roped climbing
(including belaying, rappelling, knot tying, and anchor
setting) ice axe use (including self-arrest and ice-axe belay),
and use of crampons.
"  Demonstrated sound judgment, mountaineering
competence, and leadership ability on two class four or
harder PCS trips or equivalent

Class Five (technical rock climbing):

" Qualifications for class four
" Led at least three routes equal to or harder than climb to be led
" Knowledgeable and experienced in all aspects of rope
management and handling. Proficient with anchor setting,
placing of protection for safety, belaying, and rappelling.
" Demonstrated sound judgment, mountaineering competence,
and leadership ability on two class five PCS trips or
equivalent

Winter Trips
" Qualifications for class of climb to be led
" Two seasons of winter mountaineering, including extensive
snow camping
" Proficiency with skis or snow shows, ice axe, crampons, and
ice axe belays
" Substantial navigational experience, including white-out and
storm conditions
" Advanced first aid preferred, with an understanding of
hypothermia, frostbite, and pulmonary edema
" Avalanche course
" Demonstrated leadership on one PCS winter trip as co-leader


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Notes and Requests
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

*** Zoroaster Temple, Grand Canyon

I have a permit for a few slots for a trip to the Grand Canyon in
Mid April. The route is the North Ridge on the Zoroaster
Temple. This trip requires hiking down to Phantom Ranch and
then back up the other side to the Sumner wash off of the Clear
Creek Trail. From there it cuts through the Red Wall (fourth
class) and then to the top of Sumner Butte. Route then
apparently takes fourth class stuff around to the back of the
temple and up a crack weakness (5.9) on the ridge.
  a. Trip duration approximately five days
  b. Route is four or five pitches...5.9 wide
  c. Total elevation change is about 20,000 feet...5K down, 5K up,
     5K down again, 5K back up
  d. Will require lots of lugging stuff (mostly water) up and down
     here and there
If you are interested please e-mail me. Be forewarned: I have no idea
where the exact route is so there is a large likelihood of failure. If
this makes you uncomfortable then please do not call me.

- Rick Booth 


*** Red Slate Request

I'm looking for a co-leader for Red Slate Mountain on 6/21-22.
The qualified individual is already a PCS class 2 leader, and is
prepared to take a group from our campsite at the headwaters of
Convict Creek up the easy side of Red Slate, while I and one
other climber climb the Red Slate ice couloir. There's an
opportunity to climb Aggie and Baldwin on the same weekend.

- Aaron Schuman ; 415-933-1901 


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
More Permit Info
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

     Editor's Note: All of the information below was scanned from
     the Angeles Chapter's Sierra Peaks Section newsletter "The
     Sierra Echo" (Jan-Feb 1997 issue). There may be typographic
     errors due to the scanner's optical character recognition. Please
     report errors to Steve Eckert .The PCS
     Binder now contains a more complete version of this article,
     including individual trailhead quotas plus a separate GIF file
     containing the permit application form.

*** Inyo National Forest Wilderness Reservation Service

The Inyo National Forest Wilderness Reservation Service
(INFWRS) is a cooperative effort between the U.S.D.A. Forest
Service Inyo National Forest and concerned citizens and
wilderness enthusiasts of the Eastern Sierra Nevada area. The
wilderness permit system provides valuable statistical
information on use levels in the wilderness areas of the Eastern
Sierra. These statistics are a vital tool used by the Inyo National
Forest in developing and evaluating resource management
strategies. Requiring visitors to obtain wilderness permits and
maintaining quotas on heavily used areas also insures that
human impact on the wilderness is maintained at a sustainable
level. The INFWRS was created to insure continued sound
management of the valuable and sensitive wilderness resources
under the stewardship of the Inyo National Forest despite staffing
losses due to Government downsizing and budget cuts. The
INFWRS is sole supported by user fees. By removing the fiscal
burden of the permit system from the Inyo National Forest, more
of the limited funding received by the forest can be used in field
level activities. It is our hope that these efforts combined with
the efforts of our fellow wilderness users will keep our wilderness
areas unspoiled and enjoyable in the near and distant future.

Requests are accepted no sooner than 6 months to the day in
advance and no later than 2 days before entry date. You can mail
your request to INFWRS, P.O. Box 430), Big Pine Ca. 93513.
Or FAX your request to (619) 938 1137. You can call in your
request at the following numbers: (619) 938 1136 or (888) 374
3773, 8:00 am to 4:30 pm PST, Monday through Friday from
10/15 to 11/22. After 11/22 our hours are 8:00 am to 4:30 PM
PST seven days per week until 9/15. We are closed on
government holidays.


*** Non-Inyo Wilderness Permit Information

Yosemite requires permits for overnight use year round. Day use
permits are not required. Permit reservations may be applied for
any time. Permit applications are processed in random order.
Your permit application will be processed for any trip 24 weeks
to the day before departure up to 2 days before departure. 50%
of permits are issued to reservations and 50% the day of entry on
a first come first served basis.

For mail in reservations write Wilderness Permit Reservations,
Yosemite. P.O. Box 545, Yosemite, CA 95389. To phone in a
reservation call 209/372-0740. When requesting a reservation
include dates of entry and exit, trailhead for start and finish, the
number of people k stock animals, destination and base camp
locations. Give alternate dates, trailheads or base camps, if possible.
Advance reservations are $3.00 per person, make checks out to
Yosemite Association, or use a major credit card number with
expiration date. For general permit and day use information call
209/372-0310. For trail information call 209/372-0200.

The following areas all have advance permit reservations available.
requests should be post marked no earlier than March 1, 1997.

Sequoia & Kings Canyon Park: Wilderness Permit Reservations,
Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks, Three Rivers, CA
93271. Phone 209/565- 3134. No permit fee is required. If using
a packer for west side entry, you will need your own permit, the
packer can not issue one for you. There is currently a $10.00
entrance fee per vehicle into the Park.

Sierra National Forest: Wilderness Reservations, Pineridge
Ranger District, P.O. Box 300, Shaver Lake, CA 93664. Phone
209/855-5355. $3.00 per person permit fee.

Toiyabe National Forest: Bridgeport Ranger District, P.O. Box
595, Bridgeport, CA 93517. Phone 619/932-7070. $3.00 per
person permit fee. The Toiyabe Nat. Forest BBS has a free on-
line service with area information, from your modem (settings-
8,n, 1 supports up to 28.800bps), dial 619/932- 1234 to get the
information you want.

Minarets: Wilderness Reservations, Minarets Ranger Distract. North
Fork. CA 93643. Phone 209/877-2218. $3.00 per person permit fee.

Mariposa: Wilderness Reservations, Mariposa Ranger District,
41969 State Highway 41. Oakhurst, CA 93664. Phone 209/683-
4665. $3.00 per person permit fee.

Stanislaus National Forest - Mokelumne, Carson- Iceberg,
Emigrant Wilderness Areas: Stanislaus Nat. Forest, Supervisor s
Office, 19777 Greenley Rd. Sonora, CA 05370. Phone 209/532-
3671. No fee.


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Unofficial (Private) Trips
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Private trips may be submitted directly to the Scree Editor,
but are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra
Club. They are listed here because they may be of interest to
PCS members, not because they are endorsed by the PCS.


*** Redwoods & Cascades
Peak:   Mt. McAbee      class 1
Date:   March 8 Sat
Contact:        Debbie Benham   home: 415-964-0558      dmbenham@aol.com
Co-Contact:     Judith Dean     home: 415-854-9288      judith.dean@forsythe.stanford.edu

We'll get a chance to enjoy grand redwoods and thunderous
falls on this 12 mile hike at Big Basin State Park. We'll start
9am at park headquarters, climb to the Mt McAbee overlook,
then loop round and up to Golden Falls. Carpool point in Palo
Alto: Montrose & Middlefield Rd. leaving promptly at 7:30am.
Any questions, please feel free to contact leaders.


*** Bound for Domeland
Peaks:  Taylor, Sirretta, Rockhouse, White, Pilot
Map:    Jenkins - Exploring Southern Sierra East Side
Dates:  March 29-31     Sat-Sun plus Mon
Contact:        Pat Ibbetson    pkibbetson@ucdavis.edu
                                weekends: 209-787-2894
Co-Contact:     Steve Eckert    eckert@netcom.com

Join us for a weekend try at Sirretta Pk (9977), Taylor Dome
(8802), Rockhouse Pk (8383), and maybe even White Dome
(7600). followed by an optional day hike up the elusive
southern Pilot Knob (6212). We'll be ready for everything from
ice axe and crampon climbing to dodging snakes and sweating.
A peak bagger's delight, and a good conditioning trip, with
plenty of variety. Most peaks are class 2, except White is class
3. The moon will be high at dawn that weekend, and so will we.
Don't wait for the summer heat to visit this area!


*** Whitney in Early Spring
Peak:   Mt. Whitney (14496')    snow / class 2
Dates:  April 3-6       Thu-Sun
Contact:        George Van Gorden       408-779-2320

Get high early and stay there all year long.  A difficult trip with a
requisite of good weather and snow conditions.  Snow camping and
crampon and ice axe experience required.  Snowshoes or skis.


*** Lost Coast Backpack
Trip:   King Range Beaches & Mountains  class 2
Dates:  April 11-13     Fri-Sun
Contact:        Kelly Maas      408-279-2054    maas@idt.com
Co-Contact:     wanted

We'll explore the beach and mountains of the the southern
Humbolt coast in the King Range National Conservation Area
(near Shelter Cove), slogging through sand and reaching
possibly 4000 ft in elevation. Expect to cover about 10 miles per
day at a moderate pace.  No real climbing is planned, but
backpacking experience is required.  Co-leader wanted.

+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ Take nothing but pictures,      +
+ Leave nothing but footprints,   +
+ Kill nothing but vandals...     +
+             -- Anon             +
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +

*** Mt. Ritter From The Back Side
Peaks:  Ritter (13150'), Banner (12943')        class 2, snow
Dates:  July 14-19      Mon-Sat
Trailhead:      Agnew Meadows
Contact:        Alan Ritter     314-225-7600 x5362      jar@storz.com

Leave Agnew Meadows Monday, 14 July, camp near Thousand
Island Lake, then hike over North Glacier Pass and on down to
Ritter Lakes on 7/15. Approach is on-trail (10 mi) to 1,000 I., off-trail
(2 mi) from there. Secor's western approach is Class 2. If
assault on Mt. Ritter succeeds 7/16, we may give neighboring
Banner Peak a try 7/17, before hiking back out 7/18-7/19.       Ice
axe and crampons required. Snow camping possible at 1,000 I. very
probable at Ritter Lakes.


*** Piute Peaks
Peaks:  Humphreys (13986), Emerson (13225)      class 4,3
Date:   July 19-20  Sat-Sun
Maps:   Mount Tom 7.5' quad, Mt. Darwin 7.5' quad
Contact:        David Harris    415-497-5571    harrisd@leland.stanford.edu
Co-Contact:     Bob Suzuki      408-259-0772    bobszk@pacbell.net

Mt. Humphreys is a beautiful flat-topped giant prominent from
Bishop. "The easy routes are challenging, the summit is high, and
the scenery is outstanding."  We'll warm up Saturday on Mt.
Emerson, then take the standard route up Humphreys from Piute
Pass on Sunday. Ice axe, crampons, and climbing harness required.


*** Thundering up the Palisades
Peak:   Thunderbolt (14003')    class 5
Date:   July 25-26      Fri-Sat
Maps:   North Palisade 7.5' quad
Contact:        David Harris    415-497-5571    harrisd@leland.stanford.edu
Co-Contact:     John Bees       702-851-0949    jbees@maxey.dri.edu

Friday will be a leisurely approach over Bishop Pass to a camp near
Thunderbolt Pass, with the option of a lunchtime jaunt up Agassiz.
On Saturday we'll ascend Southwest Chute #2 and puzzle out how
to lasso the summit block. One brave soul will lead the block, then
ordinary mortals may prussic up after unsuccessfully trying to follow.
We'll complete the long day by hiking out that night. Ice axe,
crampons, and climbing harness required. Climbing shoes may be
helpful. Group limited to six fast, experienced mountaineers.


*** Palisades Part Two
Peak:   Norman Clyde (13920+') class 3-4
Date:   July 27-28 Sun-Mon
Maps:   Split Mountain 7.5' quad
Contact:        David Harris    415-497-5571    harrisd@leland.stanford.edu
Co-Contact:     John Bees       702-851-0949    jbees@maxey.dri.edu

After Thunderbolt and a short night of sleep in the desert, we'll attack
imposing Norman Clyde from the South Fork of Big Pine Creek.
Carrying light packs and bivvy gear, we'll race up to Finger Lake
before the Dreaded Mosquitoes of Big Pine Creek eat us alive, then
attempt to locate the class 3-4 route up the North-Northeast Ridge. If
we stay on route, we may be able to dayhike the peak.  If not, we'll
plan to bivvy somewhere on the peak and finish Monday morning.
Ice axe, crampons, harness required, climbing shoes may be
helpful. Group limited to four fast, experienced mountaineers.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE BACK PAGE
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Scree is the monthly journal of the Peak Climbing Section of the Sierra Club, Loma Prieta Chapter.


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Elected Officials
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Chair:
        Warren Storkman / pcs_chair@kaweah.mti.sgi.com
        415-493-8959 home, 415-493-8975 fax
        4180 Mackay Drive, Palo Alto, CA 94306

Vice Chair and Trip Scheduler:
        Jim Ramaker / pcs_scheduler@kaweah.mti.sgi.com
        408-224-8553 home, 408-463-4873 work,
        188 Sunwood Meadows Place, San Jose CA 95119-1350

Treasurer and Membership Roster (address changes):
        George Van Gorden / pcs_treasurer@kaweah.mti.sgi.com
        408-779-2320 home
        830 Alkire Avenue, Morgan Hill, CA 95037


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Appointed Positions
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Scree Editor, Email Broadcast Operator:
        Steve Eckert / pcs_editor@kaweah.mti.sgi.com
        415-508-0500 home/work, 415-508-0501 fax
        1814 Oak Knoll Drive, Belmont, CA 94002-1753

PCS World Wide Web Publisher:
        Aaron Schuman / pcs_webmaster@kaweah.mti.sgi.com
        415-933-1901, http://reality.sgi.com/csp/pcs/index.html
        223 Horizon Avenue, Mountain View, CA 94043-4718


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Subscriptions
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Hardcopy subscriptions are $10. Subscription applications and checks
payable to "PCS" should be mailed to the Treasurer so they arrive before
the last Tuesday of the expiration month. If you are on the PCS email
broadcast, you have a free EScree subscription. For broadcast info, send
Email to  with the one-line message
   INFO lomap-peak-climbing
EScree subscribers should send a subscription form to the Treasurer to
become voting PCS members at no charge. All subscribers are requested to
send a donation of $2/year to cover operating expenses other than printing
the Scree, which is on the PCS web site (as both plain text and postscript).


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Rock Climbing Classifications
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The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing
trips for which you are qualified. No simple rating system can
anticipate all possible conditions.
        Class 1: Walking on a trail.
        Class 2: Walking cross-country, using hands for balance.
        Class 3: Requires use of hands for climbing, rope may be used.
        Class 4: Requires rope belays.
        Class 5: Technical rock climbing.


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In Upcoming Issues:
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 Trip Reports: Mexican Volcanoes, Southern Sawtooth
 Compendia: Restaurants
 (the Editor promised we'd clear the backlog, eh?)


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Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Sunday 3/23/97.
Meetings are the second Tuesday of each month.
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"Vy can't ve chust climb?" - John Salathe
(end of Scree - March 1997)