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Scree for July, 1996

This is the EScree - the Electronic version of the Scree newsletter from
the Peak Climbing Section of the Loma Prieta Chapter of the Sierra Club.
It should be viewed or printed with a fixed-pitch font such as Courier.
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     This publication may not be posted on any public news group.
                     July, 1996  Vol. 30, No. 7
    Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Thurday 7/25/96.
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Next meeting (PCS meetings are the second tuesday of each month)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:   Tuesday, July 9
Time:   6:30 Start charcoal
        7:00 Start BBQ
        8:00 Start of meeting

Location: Junipero Serra Park, Sunnyvale

From I-280 turn North on DeAnza Blvd in
Cupertino then left on Homestead then right on
Hollenbeck. The park is on your left.

From I-85 turn East on Fremont then South on
Hollenbeck. The park is on your right.

A 90 person picnic area is 20 yards from the
parking lot between the 2 sets of tennis courts.
Park or unload here. Extra parking is 1/2 block
away on the North side of the park and 1 block
away on the West side.

Program: BBQ and SWAP MEET

Bring your own main course to BBQ and your
own liquid refreshment (alcohol IS allowed) and
a side dish to share for the potluck. A $2.00
donation will cover the picnic area and charcoal.

Electrical outlets are available at the table. Kids
play area is 20 yards away.

Bring your summer trip reports and mark your
extra equipment for the swap meet with your
name and a price.


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Olympus Mons
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Are you tired of bagging peanut-sized 14ers and dreaming of
puny 8,000 meter peaks? Want to climb something REALLY
TALL? Then sign up for the climb of Olympus Mons, tallest
peak in the Solar System. It is a broad shield volcano 600 km in
diameter and 27 km tall, making it 3 times taller than Everest.

Some routes on the mountain are so feebly inclined that you'd
hardly guess you were going up. Since this announcement is
intended for hardy PCSers, we have chosen the toughest route:
South Buttress, which will require us to scale a 22,000 foot cliff.
That's seven times taller than El Cap, 3 times as tall as Everest's
Southwest Face, twice as tall as Dhaulagiri wall: four miles of
cliff blotting out the western sky. Imagine it! If you have lost
your breath, remember class 5 on Earth is class 4 on Mars.

We will establish base camp at the foot of the Talus Slope and
Camp 1 immediately above it. From there the climbing is
technical and we will have to establish Camp 1 on The Slabs,
Camp 2 in the Great Gully and Camp 4 immediately above the
Great Gully. Camp 5 will be established at the rightmost edge of
the Thank God Ledge and 6 at the left. Camp 7 will be at the
midway point of the lower Lightning Bolt Gullies section, while
Camp 8 will be in the protected confines of The Cave. Camp 9
and 10 will have to be in the dangerously exposed upper
Lightning Bolt gullies section. At Camp 11 we will leave the
technical rock behind. Above it we will do a long class 3
scramble up the Snow Bowl which will lead us to the top of the
South Buttress and our equipment and supply cache.

After our first victory press conference, we will proceed to
march 250 kilometers to the summit on the 6% grade upper
flank of Olympus Mons. We should accomplish this in a few
days and it should be somewhat anticlimactic, unless we run out
of oxygen.

Martian Costs: $40,000 plus $10,000 for first ascent fee. This is
a real bargain; just compare it to the toll on Everest. Those who
can provide ride sharing to basecamp will be given priority.

Guidebook: Green Mars by Kim Stanley Robinson, copyright
1985. (I refer to the novelette, which is harder to find than the
novel with same title and author.)

- Tony Cruz 

Been there, done that, got the tee-shirt.
P.S. JPL's phone number is 818-354-4321

- Eugene Miya 

Whoaaa.. Hold everything galacto speedos.... somebody's going
to jail on Uranus.. because YOU DID NOT GET A PERMIT!

- Rich Calliger 


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Notes and Requests
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*** Non-Native Plant Eradication

As a NPS Resource Management Volunteer (Yosemite National
Park) and a Sierra Club/Loma Prieta member, I'm recruiting
volunteers for National Park Service in Yosemite to do non-
native plant eradication (primarily bull thistle & mullein). The
season begins late June and ends in early September. You can
volunteer for one to several days at a time, weekdays and some
weekends. Work parties are led by me and one other NPS
volunteer. Participants are provided entrance to Yosemite &
shared camping space for the time they are volunteering.
Participants are on their own for meals, showers, camping gear,
etc. Volunteers must be in very good physical condition, and for
some (not all) of the work sites must be experienced cross-
country hikers (day hikes only, no backpacking). If you are
interested in having more info about this opportunity to help
improve Yosemite's ecological integrity, send email to
 or send an SASE to: Georgia Stigall-
Volunteers, 17287 Skyline Blvd Box 102, Woodside, CA 94062.

- Georgia Stigall


*** Sportiva For Sale

Sportiva Rock climbing shoes, stealth rubber, worn twice,
excellent condition. Women's size 8.5 - $75. 00 OBO. Will mail
to you at no charge. E-mail:  or call 310-
369-1750 and leave a message (will answer after 7/1/96 - in AK
until then).

- Wynne Benti


*** Mountain Hardwear Trango 3 4-Season Tent

I have a Mountain Hardwear Trango 3 4-season tent for sale. It's
similar to a Sierra Designs Stretch Dome, but better. I have used
both, and the Mountain Hardwear tent has better features. If you
have read the reviews, you know that Mountain Hardwear
makes some of the best 4-season products around. Hard-core
mountaineers like Ed Vestiurs use Mountain Hardwear tents.
This tent is like-new, used maybe three times. More details can
be viewed on the web:
        http://www.sportsite.com/mountain/trango.html
It's a $400 tent. Make offer at 408-446-0387 (work) or email.

- Will Estes 


*** Private Trek: Nepal 1996

The world's most scenic views of Ana Dablam and Mt. Everest
from the Tengboche Monastery will be only one of the many
mountain views we'll enjoy. This 18-20 day trek takes us
through Namche Bazaar with the climb of Gokyo Ri - Kala Patar
- option of Island Peak (20,300ft.). This private $1550 trek is in
October which is the best weather time. For more information,
fax 415-4493-8975 or phone 415-493-8959.

- Warren Storkman < dstorkman@aol.com>


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Trans-Sierra Ski Trip x 2
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Five Sierra Club friends skied a scenic trans-Sierra route from
Glacier Lodge to Roads End at Kings Canyon, then returned to
the East Side via Bubbs Creek and Kearsarge Pass. En route, we
skied Split Mountain and Dougherty Peak. May 5-12, 1996.

Cast: Dave Erskine, John Langbein, Lin Murphy, Roy
Lambertson, and Butch Suits. We had sunny weather throughout
the trip, though cold at times--temperatures on two nights were
in the single digits at around 11,000 ft. The snow was pretty
good corn, though the recent hot spell had formed fields of small
nieves penitentes (spikes of snow) in places, a washboard of tiny
suncups in other places.

On the first two days, we started from Glacier Lodge (hitting
snow at 9000') and crossed South Fork and Mather Passes.
South Fork was not icy, requiring laborious but secure step-
kicking. Mather was a bit ugly, with slushy, steep snow, some
rock outcrops to avoid, and "death cookies" from past wet slides.

On the third day we skied Split. Unfortunately, the snow cover
was not continuous on the north slope, but we did get an
exciting run from the summit on packed powder. The sharp
rocks at the base of this snowpatch provided a good incentive for
completing our turns! We skied about half the vertical drop;
walked the rest.

Domestic arrangements each evening were a source of endless
diversion. The reasons were (1) we had a mixture of two and
three-person dinners due to a last-minute dropout, and (2) we
wanted to rotate tentmates between our small Bibler (cramped
for the tall folks), larger Bibler (Ahhh....very comfortable) and a
1-person bivy tent (so cramped that John dubbed it the
"doghouse," later modifying the name to "mutt hut"). The
doghouse had a nice ventilated back panel that made for icy toes
on those 5 deg nights. An enduring quote captured from these
domestic discussions: "You don't have to sleep with the person
you have dinner with."

The next 2-1/2 days we plunged into terra incognita for most of
us: a spectacular, high traverse along the Cirque and Monarch
crests to Road's End at King's Canyon. This route, described in
Moynier's guide, crosses about 8 high passes/ridges en route,
high above the Muro Blanco canyon of the Kings River. Most of
the passes were not skiable, requiring step kicking: the hardest
was about 50 deg at the top. Highlights included the pristine,
conifer-dotted swales of upper Cartridge Creek--we pointed our
skis downhill and schussed for over a mile. The most
spectacular "pass" was the summit of Dougherty Peak, which is
the easiest way to traverse the crest in that area. We got a great
run from the summit down the southwest bowl. We were able to
ski over the last few passes in the Kid Creek-Glacier Basin area-
-beautiful ski terrain.

At this point, I discovered what Roy called "the law of the
conservation of klister." I scraped klister off my skis and wiped
it on the only thing available--my ski basket; the next day, while
draping my sleeping bag on my gear to dry it--I discovered the
klister had migrated to the inside of my bag!

I had been carrying a banana-walnut muffin, protected from
compression in my drinking cup, and a single candle wedged
into my toothbrush case. That evening, after we pitched our tents
at the rim of Kings Canyon, we assembled these two items, lit
the candle, and sung Happy Birthday to Dave. A broad smile lit
his face.

We had hoped to devote 2 days to hiking/skiing back to the east
side via Bubbs Creek, but we were behind schedule. So, on Day
6, with uncanny routefinding, Roy led us down the final finger
of snow to within a hundred feet of the trail; we hiked the rest of
the 5000 feet DOWN to Road's End, jumped in the creek,
festooned the Ranger Station with drying clothes; then, after
lunch, hiked UP to Charlotte Creek in the afternoon heat. In his
best preacher's voice, Roy admonished those of us who wanted
to bail out: "Brothers, the temptations of the valley are many."
The trip was becoming a death march: heavy skis on our packs,
sore feet, sore backs, glazed stares from my sunburned
companions.

On Day 7 we came through, however. We got up at dawn and
started hiking, then cooked breakfast at our first rest stop. We
didn't hit skiable snow until about 10,000 feet near Bullfrog
Lake but skied over Kearsarge Pass to our cars by late afternoon.
It was a memorable, though strenuous, trip.

- Butch Suits


+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ Experience is that marvelous thing    +
+ that enables you recognize a mistake  +
+ when you make it again.               +
+     - F. P. Jones                     +
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +


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Wilderness First Aid Course
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Earlier this year I started looking around for a good Wilderness
First Aid course. I tried to find one that went beyond the Red
Cross Standard First Aid course and yet didn't require weeks of
time.

I ended up choosing the "Extended Wilderness Care" course that
Cal Adventures, Berkeley puts on. It took up a Friday night and
all day Saturday and Sunday. It cost $105.

As the weekend approached, I was regretting having committed
my whole weekend to the course. But I ended up wishing it was
longer. Two days and a night were just too short to adequately
cover this subject. But for the time allotted, it was a really good
course, made more so by the guy who taught it.

Along with the usual Red Cross stuff, which we polished off
Friday night, a great deal of time was devoted to being able to
manage an injured person on your own, sans 911 support. In
addition to lecture and handouts, we practiced our skills in acted
out scenarios in which classmates would pretend to be injured
and we would attempt to care for them. This part of the course
was quite an eye opener.

They will be offering this course again, if anyone is interested. It
also includes the Red Cross First Aid and CPR certifications.

Cal Adventures, Berkeley, phone 510-642-4000
$105, three days (Fri 6pm-10pm, Sat&Sun 8am-5pm)
Dates: July 19-21, Sept 27-29

So now, if any of you are out climbing with me, choke on your
dehydrated tri tip steak, fall over backwards off a cliff, land on
your head, break your neck and go into cardiac arrest -- don't
worry. I'll know what to do.

- Jim Curl


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Angora Mountain (10,198)
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What's white and fluffy and warms the heart? Angora Peak of
course! Over the Memorial Day weekend Richard and I climbed
this seldom visited peak in the Golden Trout Wilderness.

Golden Trout Wilderness is a special treat for spring
backpacking. We traveled through lofty old growth forest
starting, at lower elevation, among cedar, majestic sugar pines
and occasional giant sequoia. As we climbed, we moved through
lodgepole to immense red fir and Jeffrey Pine. At higher
elevations we found foxtail pines.

For bird watchers Golden Trout is a colorful feast. Woodpeckers
of several kinds are plentiful. Chickadees and junco abound. I
even saw my first female crossbill, an unusual yellow bird that
feeds off pine cones using its strangely crossed bill. At night we
heard the who-who-who of a great horned owl.

Since the Little Kern River was high, the ranger advised us to
cross at the stock bridge instead of at Burnt Corral Meadow as
we had planned. I had never thought about it before, but I'm sure
that's where the city of Stockbridge (pick your state) got its
name. Discovering the obvious!

At 5:30 p.m. we left Lewis Camp trail head (7680') on the historic
Jordan Trail built in 1857 and easily made it the seven miles
downhill to the bridge (5940') before dark. (On the way out this
uphill section proved to be much longer.) Soon after leaving Lewis
Camp, the trail affords a spectacular view of the Great Western
Divide. We could see where we had twice crossed the Divide last
year over Farewell Gap and Shotgun Pass.

The next morning we crossed the bridge and took a cross
country shortcut due north over a bump to Deep Creek where we
continued uphill to 8276' where the climb began to get serious.
In about two miles we ascended to 9600' and dropped our
backpacks. By then it was 4 p.m. and socked in.

Whenever I travel cross country, I have a heightened sense of
awareness which usually includes a mixture of adventure,
sometimes trepidation and great pleasure. It's always a thrill to
successfully return to a stowed pack or find a landmark where
the compass needle promised it would be. With the clouds
swirling around us limiting visibility, we used altimeter and
compass to navigate from 9600' through the snow to a 10,000'
saddle and then the final 200' to the top of Angora. Entries in the
register were few, mostly once a year during Memorial Day
weekend. There were primarily SPS members & Bill Rauch.

Miraculously, the clouds parted to give us glimpses of the sheer
wall of Coyote Peaks to the north and the warm meadows to the
south. Photos taken, we plunge-stepped back to our backpacks
and continued another two miles to a good campsite at 9400'. By
then it was approaching dark, snowing and getting cold. I hadn't
the patience to prepare a fire from all natural materials as I had
the night before, so I sacrificed my candle and soon had a
warming blaze. We had come 16.5 miles and about 5,000 feet
elevation gain.

I highly recommend this fabulous Wilderness with many
possibilities for exploration. Because of the old growth trees and
generally dry climate, there is less underbrush than many other
areas of comparable elevation making cross country travel
enjoyable. Oh yes, Angora is on the SPS list.

- Debbie Bulger


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Official (PCS) Trips
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

PCS trips must be submitted through the Scheduler (see
back cover for details). Trips not submitted to the
Scheduler will be listed as PRIVATE, without recourse.


*** Darwin, Evolution Region
Peaks:  Darwin and others (13,000+)     class 3
Trailhead:      North Lake, with car shuttle to Bishop Pass.
Dates:  July 4-7        Thur-Sun
Leader: Chris Kramar    W 415-926-6861

Cross country over Lamarck Col into one one of the most famous
and popular areas in the Sierra Nevada. Walter Starr Jr. wrote that
the Evolution country was "the region where the grand crescendo
of the Sierra touches at once the heart of the mountaineer and the
artist." We will travel through Evolution Canyon to Muir pass and
out Bishop Pass in four days, catching Darwin and other peaks
along the way. Possible peaks include Goddard, Black Giant,
Scylla, Charybdis and others. To reserve a spot, send $3 (permit
fee) and contact information (name, address, phone etc.) to 4302
Ribera St., Fremont, CA 94536

Editor's note: This trip was MISTAKENLY listed as private last month.


*** Ansel Adams
Peak:   Mt Ansel Adams (12,760')        class 3
Map:    Mt Lyell 7.5 min topo
Dates:  July 4-7        Thur-Sun
Leader: Kai Wiedman     415-347-5234
Co-Leader:      Phyllis Olrich  415-322-0323

Steve Roper calls this peak a spectacular sight from the Lyell
Fork of the Merced. The real attraction of this area lies in the
remote, sublime beauty of these peaks, lakes and views.
Some of the most spectacular scenery in the Park is found in
this area with its vast sweeping panoramas. Our trip will take
us 22 miles into this rugged and remote landscape. Come join
us for this once in a lifetime experience.


*** It's Brewer, Bubb!
Peak:   Mt Brewer (13,570')     class 2
Dates:  July 12-14      Fri-Sun
Leader: Roger Crawley   415-321-8602
Co-Leader:      Bill Kirkpatrick

From the trailhead in Cedar Grove, Kings Canyon (5075') the
route follows Bubbs Creek to Junction Meadows, then East Creek
to our camp at East Lake (9,445'). The second day we'll go up
Ouzel Creek and climb the south ridge to the summit. Permit for 6.


*** Virginia and Twin
Peaks:  Virginia (12,001'), Twin (12,314')      class 3
Map:    Matterhorn Peak USGS 15'
Dates:  July 13-14      Sat-Sun
Leader: Jim Ramaker     408-224-8553 evenings ramaker@vnet.ibm.com

Steep metamorphic rock and beautiful surroundings keep bringing
me back to this enchanting corner of northeast Yosemite. Join me
for another go. We'll do the 7-mile hike from Green Creek to
Return Lake on Saturday, and maybe do a warm-up climb of
Grey Butte (11,200) in the late afternoon. Sunday we'll tackle the
east face of Virginia, and time permitting, traverse the ridge over to
Twin (12,314). Virginia is fairly steep and loose, so experienced
class 3 climbers only on this trip.


*** Will You Sing, Gale?
Peak:   Gale, Sing      class 2
Dates:  Jul 20-21       Sat-Sun
Map:    Merced Peak 15 min Quad
Leader: Warren Storkman 415-493-8959 dStorkman@aol.com

We go over Chiquito Pass in Southern Yosemite Park. Call
leader for more information.


*** Russell's Horns
Peak:   Mt Russell (14,086')    class 3
Dates:  July 28-30      Sun-Tue
Leader: Roger Crawley   415-321-8602
Co-Leader:      Bill Kirkpatrick

Starting from the Mt Whitney trailhead we'll go up the North
Fork of Lone Pine Creek and camp at Upper Boy Scout Lake.
Monday we'll head for the east arete via the Russell-Carillion
saddle. The scary part will be crossing from the east horn to
the west horn (which is the highest). An option after the
Russell climb is to hike in the Mt Langley area for 3-4 more
days. Permit for 6.


*** Red and White
Peaks:  Red and White (12,850') class 2-3
Dates:  August 17-18    Sat-Sun
Leader: Chris MacIntosh 415-325-7841 chrism@CLBooks.com

A pleasant hike in to camp at scenic McGee Lakes, and
an even more scenic and enjoyable climb of this peak will
make for a good 2 day weekend. Room for 8. Send $3
(permit fee) and your climbing/backpacking resume (if not
known to leader) to confirm your place: Box 802, Menlo
Park, CA 94026-0802.


*** Royce With Roger
Peak:   Royce Peak (13,253')    class 2
Dates:  Aug 24-25       Sat-Sun
Leader: Roger Crawley   415-321-8602
Co-Leader:      (wanted)

We start from the Pine Creek Pass trailhead near Bishop.
We climb 4000' to the top - about 11,200' - and camp. On
Sunday we climb the southeast ridge to the summit of
Royce. I bout that we'll also climb Merriam Peak, but it's
an option. Permit for 8.

*** Late Addition
Peaks: Royce (13,253'), Merriam (13,077')                  class 2
Maps: Mt. Abbot & Mt. Tom 15' topos
Dates: August 24-25                                        Sat-Sun
Leader:    Roger Crawley        H:415-321-8602
Co-Leader: Bob Suzuki           H (>8pm):408-259-0772, W:510-657-7555
 
Roger and I will be combining our separately permitted climbs of Royce 
so we hope to assemble a fun, lively group of participants. Be prepared,
however, for 4000' of gain from the Pine Creek Pass trailhead near
Bishop. Climbing both peaks will be an available option for Sunday.
Permits for 14.


*** Marion Bury
Peak:   Marion 12,207'  class 2
Dates:  Aug 31 - Sep 2  Sat-Mon
Leader: Chris Yager     408-243-3026

A real butt-kicker to get this in three days. Involves 5600'
gain to the pass, then 10 miles to the lake. If we have time
after Marion, we'll do some other peaks in the area.

"It is not the goal of grand alpinisme to face
peril, but it is one of the tests one must
undergo to deserve the joy of rising for an
instant above the state of crawling grubs."
- Lionel Terray


*** Bird Song Day Hike
Peak:   Vogelsang (11,400')     class 2
Date:   Sep 13  Sat
Maps:   Tuolomne Meadows 15' quad, Vogelsang Peak 7.5' quad
Leader: Aaron Schuman   (no RSVP)

We'll hike on trail to Tuolomne Pass (10000'), and climb to
the summit. 18 miles round trip. The Bird Song and
Conservation of Energy Day Hikes require no RSVP.
Campers at the PCS Tuolomne Meadows Group Camp
and other hikers just meet at the Tuolomne Campground
group site ready to hike at 7:00 a.m.


*** Conservation of Energy Day Hike
Peak:   Mount Gibbs (12,800')   class 2
Date:   Sep 14  Sun
Map:    Mono Craters 15' quad
Leader: Aaron Schuman   (no RSVP)

From Dana Meadows (9600'), we'll hike on trail to Mono Pass
(10600'), The Bird Song and Conservation of Energy Day Hikes
require no RSVP. Campers at the PCS Tuolomne Meadows
Group Camp and other hikers just meet for a carpool to the
trailhead from the Tuolomne Campground group site at 7:00 a.m.

Note: Gibbs proposed three laws of thermodynamics
        1. Conservation of Energy
        2. Increasing Entropy
        3. Unattainable Absolute Zero
This trip name may now mean something even to the readers who
slept through physics class in pursuit of Law #3.


*** Hiske and ?
Peaks:  Mt Fiske 13,524', Mt Huxley 13,117'     class 2-3
Dates:  Sep 14-15       Sat-Sun
Leader: Chris Yager     408-243-3026

Approach via Haeckle-Wallace Pass or Echo Col, traverse
and descend when necessary.


*** Muriel Peak
Peak:   Muriel (12,942'), Goethe (13,240')      class 3
Dates:  Sept 14-16      Sat-Mon
Leader: Roger Crawley   415-321-8602
Co-Leader:      Bill Kirkpatrick

This is the Glacier Divide between Humphrey's Basin and
Darwin Canyon. From the North Lake trailhead we go up
2000' over Piute Pass and camp at Muriel Lake (11,336').
Sunday we take the class 2 knapsack pass up through the
keyhole (12,560') then up the southeast ridge to the summit of
Muriel Peak. Next we drop down to Alpine Col (12,320') and
climb the class 3 NE ridge on Mount Goethe. Permit for 8.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ATTENTION ALL PCS LEADERS!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Calling all current PCS Leaders!! For a recent PCS-posted
trip into the Palisade Crest/Bishop Pass area, I received
about 15 calls on a permit for six. The trip offered was for
the novice or hiker new to climbing up peaks. One person
commented that if PCS wanted to promote membership,
and welcome newcomers, we really needed to offer more
trips for the beginning peak bagger. How to solve this??
Please help with this dilemma.

- Debbie Benham


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USFS Law Enforcement Division Speaks
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Editor's Note: Bryan Laws posted a note on several Internet
news groups offering wilderness permits for sale. Here is the
official response, as verified by Rich Calliger (who called
Special Agent Melle to see if this message was a hoax).

This msg comes from the USFS - Inyo NF, the NPS-
Sequoia/Kings Canyon NP's, and from our wilderness permit
contractor - Wilderness Reservation Service, re: recent actions of
"Waveslide" AKA Bryan Laws of Malibu, soliciting to sell
wilderness permits for the Mt. Whitney area.

We've been quiet to date pending the outcome of the criminal
investigation by our law enforcement staffs of Mr. Laws' actions.
As he voluntarily withdrew and disclaimed his offer and in fact
did not obtain or sell the permits indicated, no criminal action
will be taken. He has, however, been personally warned of the
error of his ways. We take a very dim view of his actions and
consider this a serious offense.

As many of you correctly pointed out to him, our permits are
government property and are not transferable, and selling or
"scalping" them is illegal and also constitutes fraud, as he is
basically selling an invalid or unusable product. We do care, and
we will take action.

We understand the frustration over our permit system, and are
trying our best to resolve concerns and meet everyone's needs.
Our contractor, apparently unbeknownst to "Waveslide", is a
very small, local, dedicated group of caring people who would
NEVER issue permits "under the table", and who have been
deeply hurt by this unwarranted smear on their professionalism.

Thank you so much to everyone who brought this matter to our
immediate attention, expressed concern, and responded to Mr.
Laws so aptly! It's nice to know we have friends out there.

P.S. - most of the few offers to buy he did receive were in fact AKA
Smokey the Bear! If anyone has any further questions about this
situation, please call [me at] 619-873-2476. Thanks all!

- Special Agent Ann Melle, USFS


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Whorled Mountaineers
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

June 8-10, 1996, Twin Lakes trailhead near Bridgeport. Group
included Aaron Schuman (leader), Steve Eckert (co-leader),
Gennady Farber, Tim Harris, Daniel Lord, Elmer Martin (an
SPSer on his second PCS trip).

If you choose not to sleep at or near the trailhead, make sure you
get up in time! Two people showed up about an hour late after
misjudging the drive time from a campground somewhere near
Sonora Pass, which would normally mean missing the trip. This
time, however, we had a short hike in and were lazing around
(breakfast at the cafe, repacking, getting acquainted with people
we had not met, etc.)

Once underway, we found the trail very flat and very good
UNTIL almost at the Hoover Wilderness sign, where it promptly
disappears completely. Shortly after that, we got onto some
snow mixed with talus slopes, and who needs a trail on snow
anyway? The main difficulty on this part of the trip was the
warm temperatures, which had cleared the snow but had not yet
launched the mosquitoes of doom.

An uneventful climb, mostly on snow, lead us to the saddle
between Twin Peaks and Matterhorn. We had intended to camp
before the saddle, but found semi-protected sites between
glacier-polished slabs just east of the saddle. Jim Curl and Dot
Reilly camped just below us on the south side of the saddle,
having packed in over the 3rd class East Couloir on Matterhorn.
(We did not see their signatures in the register, but Jim assures
me that they signed in using their "Nepali aliases.")

Sunday morning we stomped off down the "causeway" we had
read about in Langsdorf's route description. Jim and Dot were
ahead of us and headed for the same peak, but turned and kicked
steps straight uphill unexpectedly. We were all certain that we
had to go MUCH further before entering the right couloir... but
later we began to doubt that. None of the route descriptions are
written with a June snowpack in mind, so identifiers such as
"sandy" or "scree" were useless to us. (Jim later confirmed that
they turned uphill too soon, dead-ending in snow and rock that
could not be traversed in the time available. The correct chute is
just around the corner, after the Twin Peak / Matterhorn saddle
is out of view, where the slope lessens.)

When the south summit of the Whorl triplet came into view, we
turned up toward the saddle between the south summit and the
middle summit (the high point). It became clear somewhere just
before the saddle that NONE of the route descriptions was
matching where we were. To be honest, most of the descriptions
halfway matched no matter which direction we faced!

We followed the ridgeline north for a bump or two, until it was
clear that we would have to descend to go on. It was at this point
that Elmer and Dan turned back, believing that we would not
make it or that it would turn into 4th class. Some hunting around
led us to a 4 foot wide sandy ledge that dropped gently as it
traversed the west side of the ridge to the north. The ledge we
used is not visible from the low point of the saddle, but others
are (which may work, but will not lead to our route).

Following this sidewalk to just before a sharp chute&rib
combination that looked impassable, we easily walked under all
of the class 5 cliffs and found decomposing granite blocks that
formed a zigzag 3rd class route upward and eastward. The
blocks terminate in a huge slab with granite intrusions (bumps).
This was the most exposed portion of the climb, very high 3rd
class (reasonable holds, but nothing to catch you if you slip).

The sustained exposure had us wondering if we should go on, so
we sent one sacrificial climber up while the others picked more
or less secure waiting spots. Exiting the slab on the upper right
corner, a rest break turned into an epiphany when a slot through
the ridge was spotted. This was not the chockstone or slab
mentioned in other route descriptions (or those descriptions
exaggerate the size), but there was a 4' chimney to pop up
through. The summit was only about 100 vertical feet from here,
to the north, half 3rd and half 2nd class!

We spent almost an hour at the top, tentatively deciding that this
was a new route (or else we had completely misread the other
route descriptions). We hit the ridge just south of the summit,
from the west. Langsdorf and Secor mention a west-side traverse
that appears to cross below the chute&rib where our sidewalk
ended, leading to the ridge north of the summit, whereas the
standard route(s) seem to stay on the east side of the ridge.

We were the first to sign the register this year, and we had no
idea why we made it by such an improbable route. The summit
register was full of one-page-per-person entries from some group
referring to the "inoculum" (please contact the author if you
know what this is). Most entries thanked God for getting them
there, but some thanked the other members of their party.
Several mentioned "paying off" something, and several
mentioned setting off smoke bombs on the summit. Very odd!

Not wanting to risk getting lost on some unknown route, we re-
traced our steps and arrived in camp just as the sun dropped
behind Matterhorn. The wind was relentless all night, having
picked up about the time we started down from the summit.

Monday we stormed up Matterhorn, summiting at 9am, not
bothering to hunt very hard for the entirely 2nd class route.
Everyone summited this day, but with the wind we spent little
time on the summit and were back in camp by 10:30. The hike
out was even more uneventful than the hike in, with the possible
exception of a few glissades fast enough to blow off my hat. We
all fed the coin-op showers at Twin Lakes and had a decadent
late lunch in Bridgeport before driving home with smiles on our
faces.

- Steve Eckert


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Conquest of Matterhorn
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

May 26, 1996: It took Whymper seven expeditions before he
finally bagged the Matterhorn in Switzerland, but my climbing
team made it to Matterhorn Peak in the Northern Yosemite
region on our first try. We did not see any Italians coming up the
hard way, but there were some European climbers (probably
German or Swiss) on the technical routes just east of us on the
Sawtooth Ridge. Luckily, we made it back alive even though a
member of our party fell 300 feet, tumbling head over heels
down steep snow and rocks.

My climbing partner (and incidentally my dentist) Mark Burhenne
and I left the Bay Area on Friday afternoon before Memorial Day and
drove over Sonora Pass. East of the pass before Bridgeport we had a
fine view of the Walker River and its meadow. Far beyond the
meadow in the west we spotted an impressive snowy mountain. Later
on our summit we reckoned it to be Tower Peak. Tower reminded
me of certain 19th century paintings I've seen depicting the Western
mountains in that fantastic way that is strangely true to life. Another
peak added to the list.

From Bridgeport it was a short drive to the Twin Lakes Resort.
We paid the required hiker parking and camping fees ($14) and
enjoyed a campfire before retiring in Mark's Toyota Land
Cruiser (which gets my vote for best commercial four-wheel
vehicle ever built). During the night, the whimpers of
Charlemagne, the third member of our expedition, alerted us to
the presence of a large black bear. With our flashlights, we got a
great view of this animal. This is always enjoyable if your food
is safe. However, I don't enjoy the racket made in a crowded
campground when idiots leave out their food in bear country.
Surprisingly we didn't hear any commotion. But the next
morning we noticed that all the campground's garbage cans were
on their sides -- none were bear-proof!

The trail head is not well marked and a bit confusing to pick out.
Two large switch backs led us to good views of Twin Lakes and
cascading sections of Horse Creek. Another switchback took us up
above the creek, giving us a fine view of it and the rugged peaks in
the distance. The short trail led us south across a nice meadow and to
snow and boulder fields. From the beginning I could imagine that I
was hiking a miniature version of a route to the Palisades and this
illusion stayed with me for the entire trip. I could identify features
that reminded me of Sam Mack Meadow, North Pal, the V-Notch,
the U-Notch, Palisade Crest, etc.

We decided to camp on the ridge directly in front of us and
above "Sam Mack." Mark had brought his skis and he spotted a
narrow tilted chute coming down from the ridge. When he
pointed it out to me, I thought he was nuts to even think about it.

To get to our base camp, we avoided the steeper, rockier section
to the right and ascended a snow field to the left. On the way up,
Charlemagne got into some difficulty near a cliff and could not
make it back to us. His rescue prompted some heroics and loud
cursing by Mark. Our site gave us a marvelous panoramic view
of the north faces of Matterhorn Peak, Twin Peaks, other
surrounding mountains and most of Horse Creek Canyon.

Saturday evening was surprisingly mild and free of wind.
According to Mark's Casio, it went below freezing only briefly
Sunday morning and never below 27 degrees F. We had hoped
for a bit more chill to make the snow harder. We set off at 6:30
a.m. Mark put on his skis and went down past "Matterhorn
Lake" and up to the left of camp while I put on my crampons and
climbed the ridge to the left of camp. The sky was free of clouds
and there was almost no wind. We took many photographs and
rendezvoused several hundred yards up on the glacier. As we
approached the East Couloir, small snow and rock avalanches
that we could not always locate by eye fell from the large rock
walls to our left. The going was easy at the bottom of the couloir
which we measured to be about 36 degrees. It steepened a bit
near the middle to over 40 degrees and was probably steepest at
the top. We stayed mostly to the left of the couloir to avoid the
exposed rocks to the right and minimize the chance of being
avalanched (which was probably minimal but not zero since the
soft fresh snow was the deepest in this section). The couloir is
probably no more than 400 feet from top to bottom.

The view from the top of the couloir was stunning and invited
comparison to one from the Palisades. Dana, Lyell, Conness,
Tower, Whorl and many other mountains were in view.
Toulomne Meadows and many other wonderful features were
highlighted by the still-heavy snow pack and provided great
photo ops. I took off my shirt and raised up my arms holding out
my ice ax in triumph. At the couloir we found another shirtless
man who had erected a seemingly bomb-proof North Face tent.
His companions were two German Shepherds, one with three
legs. This guy thought that everything about him was "killer." He
was intoxicated with his surroundings and could not stop raving
about the mountains and his dogs. Charlemagne was the third
German Shepherd at the top of the ridge that day. Just after us a
young couple arrived from the west via the class 2 route.

Mark had to tie Charlemagne down (or he would risk his life
following us). We scrambled up the remaining couple of
hundred feet to the summit. The young man who arrived
moments after us flashed the peak ahead of us but he warned his
girlfriend off. We climbed the Class 3 rock very deliberately and
were rewarded with a full panorama even better than that at the
top of the couloir. Taking more photos with Mark's fine
equipment we lingered, enjoying the perfect day. Mark pointed
out the highest spot on the summit and I kissed it. We tried to
find the register but gave up without really trying because of the
snow. Mark had been on the peak several times and said that
this time was a bit anticlimactic, but still enjoyable. He has had
several adventures on this peak, having skied it in the Spring
and day-hiked it in dry conditions in the Fall (he doesn't
recommend the latter). The peak has special significance for
Mark because of his adventures and also because his father
wrote a classic Sierra ski touring book which prominently
features Matterhorn Peak.

On the way back down to the top of the couloir, we met one other
person. He had day-hiked from Twin Lakes with a small pack and
had gone up the couloir without crampons or ice ax. His manner was
controlled but he also praised the Sierras and compared them
favorably to the other great ranges he had visited.

The way down the couloir generated the only grunting we
suffered on the whole trip. The snow had softened considerably
by early afternoon and it was inconsistent. I wasted time plunge
stepping, side stepping, putting my crampons on and off and
down climbing with the points of my crampons. Mark didn't fool
around and just down climbed it with his points. As he had done
throughout the trip, Charlemagne ran circles around us the
whole time. We were the only ones seen coming down the
couloir that day; the couple went back via the class 2 route; the
guy with dogs planned to stay the night and climb the peak that
evening; and the day-hiker apparently chose to exit via the class
2 route.

Near the base of the couloir we picked up our packs which had
been cached. Mark elegantly skied out of sight in minutes and I
managed to glissade the better part of 1,000 feet down to camp
soon after. Given his grace on skis, I was surprised to hear Mark
say that the snow conditions were terrible and dangerous. On the
way down, I stopped to collect one of my water bottles, which I
had carelessly dropped at the cache site.

By the time we arrived at our base camp, clouds had obscured
the north faces of Matterhorn, giving it a mysterious aura. Mark
packed quickly since he wanted to get down before his wife got
nervous and called the rangers. He put on his skis and bolted
directly off the ridge directly to "Sam Mack." I followed him
with a glissade but rocky cliffs barred my way and I was forced
to slow down to carefully down climb another crummy section as
bad and a third as long as the couloir.

Unknown to me at the time, the skiing conditions had improved
enough for Mark to risk skiing that incredibly narrow tilted
chute he had spotted on the way up. On the way down he lost
Charlemagne. Then to his horror Mark saw the dog slide
uncontrollably on the snow and fall over a cliff. Charlemagne
tumbled and spun for about three hundred feet and Mark
contemplated how best to put him out of his misery. To his
amazement, the dog stood up, shook himself off and appeared to
be completely uninjured except for a slight bleeding at the lip.
Mark broke his rule of not feeding human food to his animal and
offered a burrito to Charlemagne, who took advantage of the
situation and inhaled it.

The rest of the journey was uneventful and as smooth as a warm
brandy. We crossed over Sonora pass listening to "Wish You
Were Here" and made it to a fleabag motel in the Central
Valley. We woke up early the next morning and were back in
the Bay Area by 7 a.m. or so on Memorial Day Morning.

- Tony Cruz


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Unofficial (Private) Trips
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Private trips may be submitted directly to the Scree Editor,
but are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra
Club. They are listed here because they may be of interest to
PCS members, not because they are endorsed by the PCS.


*** U-Notch To North Palisade
Peak:   North Palisade (14,242')        class 5
Dates:  July 4-7        Thur-Sun
Contact:        Peter Maxwell   408-737 9770

Secor describes this as "THE classic peak of the High Sierra. It is
striking from a distance, and it has routes that will challenge
climbers of all abilities and preferences." We will take the U-notch
route from the east, involving a 700' 40-degree snow/ice climb.
This will be a difficult climb, and suitable for experienced climbers
only. The number of people on the trip will be contingent on class
5 leaders being available.


*** Middle Dissappointment
Peaks:  Dissappointment 13,917' / Middle Pal 14,040'
Dates:  July 13-14      Sat-Sun
Map:    Big Pine
Contact:        Chris Yager     408-243-3026

Ice axe, crampons, rope, harness required. Ascend NE
gully of Dissappointment (class 4) or standard Middle
Palisade route (class 3). Permit is for South Fork trailhead.


*** Julius Caesar
Peak:   Mt. Julius Caesar (13,196')     class 3
Maps:   Mt. Hilgard, Mt. Tom topos
Dates:  July 20-21      Sat-Sun
Contact:        Debbie Benham   H 415-964-0558
Co-Contact:     Phyllis Olrich  H 415-322-0323 phylliso@forsythe.stanford.edu

Et tu, Brutus? Join us for a lively, mid-summer climb over
Italy Pass. We'll ascend via the west ridge which Roper
calls a "Classic Class 3". Permit for 8.


*** High Mountain Ice
Peaks: Mt. Mendel 13,691' / Mt. Darwin 13,830'  ice/rock
Dates:  July 20-22 or Aug 24-26 Sat-Mon
Contact:        Chris Yager     408-243-3026

Climb Mt Mendel via one of the ice chutes and class 5
rock, or Mt Darwin via north glacier and class 4 rock. Ice
tools, crampons, rope, experience required.


*** Great Western & Kings-Kern Divides
Peaks:  Ericsson, Stanford, Table, Midway, etc.
Maps:   Mt Brewer and Sphinx Lakes quads
Dates:  July 20-27      Sat-Sat
Contact:        Andrew Hassell  415-493-3342 hassella@math.Stanford.EDU

Unofficial trip to the the heart of King's Canyon and
Sequoia National Parks, July 20-27. Eight day
backpacking and peak climbing (class 3 max) trip starting
from Bubb's Creek on the western side. We will climb
some of the following: Mt Ericsson (13608 ft), Mt Stanford
(13963 ft), Table Mtn (13630 ft), Midway Mtn (13666 ft),
Milestone Mtn (13641 ft) and Triple Divide Peak (12634 ft).


*** Western Divide Peaks
Peaks:  Table, Thunder, Jordan, etc.    13000+, class 3
Dates:  Aug 3-11 or Aug 10-18   Sat-Sun (week)
Contact:        Chris Yager     408-243-3026

Entry via Shepherd Pass, hook around the south side of
Table Mtn. Ice axe, crampons, rope required.


*** Late Trip Listing
Peaks: Darwin (13,831'), Mendel (13,710')        snow/rock, class 3-4
Map: Mt. Goddard 15' topo, Mt. Darwin 7.5' topo
Dates: August 16-18                              Fri-Sun, 3 days
Contacts: Bob Suzuki             W:510-657-7555, H (>8pm):408-259-0772
          Charles Schafer        W:408-324-6003, H:408-354-1545

This weekend will begin on Friday with a hike over Lamark Col and into
upper Darwin Canyon. Saturday we'll ascend the Darwin Glacier and West
Ridge route , traverse the summit plateau and finally climb the class 4
pinnacle of this mountain that Secor calls "the monarch of the
Evolution region." An optional Sunday climb of Mt. Mendel will require
an early start. Permit for 8.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Close Shaves on Shasta
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This editor thinks the next two trip reports make a good case for
sticking together as a group. In both cases, the weather closed in on a
group that was strung out, with potentially deadly consequences if
less experienced people were depending on an experienced leader. I
was leading a Shasta trip earlier this year when someone took a long
fall down an icy slope and disappeared into swirling wind-blown
snow. If we had not been close together, we would not have known
where to look (there was no major injury, but assistance was
needed). Please think about these three incidents the next time
you're about to leave someone behind.

- Editor


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
20th Annual Mt Shasta Climb/Ski
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Over the Memorial Weekend, eleven climbers met for a climb of
Northern California's premier volcano via the Standard Route up
Avalanche  Gulch. As we started up the mountain on Saturday, we
passed many unsuccessful climbers departing who reported
extremely high winds on the ridges. After making camp at Lake
Helen, however, we were  blessed by mild weather. One climber
continued from camp to the summit that day! Two developed
symptoms of Mountain Sickness, so they opted to stay in camp, but
the rest went for the summit early on Sunday morning. Again, mild
weather held up and ALL climbers who started up to the summit
were successful. Lisa Dersh of Palo Alto was the sole woman
standing on the summit, and she was there two minutes ahead of the
leader! Not bad for a complete beginner to climbing.

Returning toward camp through Avalanche Gulch, a nasty accident
was observed. One ignorant kid was attempting to glissade down the
very icy slope with his crampons still on. Further, his ice axe was not
in the ready position. He caught a point, which flipped him up into a
tumble and headfirst slide. His axe was ten feet ahead of him down
the hill. Two innocent walkers were surprised by the kid and were
knocked off their feet. One man slid 600 feet before stopping. One
woman tumbled for more than 1000 feet before coming to rest.
Blood was splattered over the icy snow as a lady ranger picked up
the pieces right away and administered first aid. I was the first one to
come upon the kid lying in the snow. I first asked if he was OK.
When he responded, I asked if he had been glissading or did he just
fall? He responded that he had been glissading. So I briefly lectured
that you NEVER intentionally glissade down a busy slope with
crampons on. Then I walked away without offering any further
assistance.

After everybody was accounted for at the high camp, we left for
the trailhead. The corn snow had very good consistency all the
way down, which was a pleasure to this skier. I later heard from
Carlos Feldman (who made it), that when the rest of them came
off the mountain an hour or two after I skied off, they got hit
with a dose of snow and wind storm. But I was already sitting
down at Bunny Flat.

- Bob Gross


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mt Shasta (14,162'), May 1996
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Over the Memorial Day weekend, 14 people from the Peak
Climbing Section attempted Mt Shasta from the north side, by
the Hotlum-Bolam Ridge. All summited.

To begin, we met at Fifth Season in Shasta City on Saturday, the
25th at 8.30 am. It was a beautiful day, but very windy. The
snow could be seen blowing from Shasta and the lower Shastina
summits. George divided the group in 2 parts and Debbie
Benham was to lead the other group. After some adroit driving
over unpaved roads in the Shasta wilderness, we reached a
trailhead that was adjacent to the official 'north gate' trailhead.
At 12 pm, we started off. We did not take snowshoes. The trail
was gentle at first in the woods, but soon got steep. We arrived
to our campsites at about 9500ft at 4 pm. The entire mountain
was visible clearly, and George and Debbie showed us the route
that we would be taking the next day.

We started off at 7.30 am on Sunday the 26th. Axes were out,
and the snow was hard enough to walk on. The day promised to
be great. The climb was steep, and un-ending, but we still made
good time. Finally we navigated a gully and came to a platform
that was at 12800 ft, where we had lunch. Meanwhile clouds
started to gather below us, and soon a cloud came over the sun.
It got a little cold, we could see some people already coming
down, there were some people skiing down too. Rising steeply
above us was a section  of snow and ice. George was at the
notch above the wall and he had set up a rope. Meanwhile the
cloud had drifted, and it was bright and warm again. We could
all make it to the notch just by kicking steps, though it was good
to know that the rope was there. At the notch one can see the
bizarre sculptures that the wind has done on the ice that lies on
the rocks. It was like looking at massive walls of white coral.
Quite impressive.

It was relatively flat now, but hard and rippled with ice. We
descended a gully and then traversed up. There we smell the
sulfur, and we could see sulfur fumes coming out of the
fumaroles. Then we were upon the switchbacks leading to the
final summit block. There we met the people who came from the
other routes. Soon we reached the summit.

George headed down, warning all of us not to dally at the
summit. There were many people on the summit, and we had to
stand in line to get to the summit block to get our pictures taken.
It had taken us 7 hrs (2.30 pm) to get to the summit. It was all so
perfect. Too perfect! We reached the place where we had to
downclimb the snow/ice field. Suddenly, without warning,
clouds engulfed us, it got very cold and it started to hail. The
hail was pelting me so violently that I could feel it underneath
my 3 layers...and we were in a whiteout. There was thunder and
lightning. Thor had just checked in!

I could only see Debbie and Ted in front and vaguely make out
Dennis. Dongshil was right behind me, as we cautiously
downclimbed the wall. We still had a way to go before reaching
the place where we had lunch, but we could see nothing and we
had no idea which way to go. A mistake would have grave
consequences at this point. One could feel the power of the
mountain. Debbie herded us all together.

From behind us, people started appearing. With relief we
accounted for all the people in our party we knew were behind
us. Meanwhile the weather was not letting up. Finally we heard
Bill and George yelling to us from the mist below, and we could
dimly make out their silhouettes. They were yelling "get down
quick and DON'T stop", we came down, plunge stepping as
quickly as we could. There was George, with Bill and the rest of
our party. We started down fast, the visibility was better, but it
was still snowing. We took off our crampons and glissaded
down to the 10000 ft level and then walked back to camp.

It was snowing fast, and it was wet. Shasta was blanked out
behind us. Our tents were drenched. George wanted to hike out
back to the cars (it was 5.30 pm then) right away and took a
vote. Me, Ted, George, his daughter Adrienne and her friends
Liz and Dongshil decided to go down. The rest decided to stay.

We made it back to the cars at about 8 pm. What a day! We had
climbed from 9500 to 14100+ and back, and then from 9500 to
7000 in 13 hrs, the last 5 in forbidding weather. Debbie says
that it snowed a foot and half at least that night. She and her
crew had to shovel all that snow the next morning (Monday).
Their group left at 8 am and were back to the cars at about 10
am without incident.

We are glad that we had the able leadership of Debbie and
George when we were in the whiteout, and that we all stayed
together. We could summit and get down in time, because we
had an early start and kept a steady pace. George had said that if
we don't get the summit by 3, we head down, thus we had
reserved time to get back. When at the whiteout, Ted had taken
a compass bearing, and it was in the same direction that we
eventually took after hearing George and Bill, so even if we had
not seen or heard them, we would have been OK following the
compass, the value of which cannot be underscored.

As some might have read in the newspapers (SF Chronicle and
the Record Searchlight, of Redding), a 49 yr old college
professor from Oklahoma City was found frozen to his death at
9500 ft on the day after Memorial Day (tue). He was climbing
with his friend on the same day as we were, Sunday. He and his
friend had been separated at a point, and he had probably
strayed away in the whiteout that the storm had caused. Some of
us had spoken to him on the way up.

I too had spoken with him, earlier in the day. I had passed him
and his partner and then had noticed that he was wearing a
jacket of the same make and color as mine and that had caused
me to stop and exchange pleasantries. His death was due to a
compounding of many small mistakes (he was suffering from
diabetes, from MS and wore leg braces, he was already looking
tired when I spoke to him, he had left his pack at 12000 ft, as
per his partner, and then, the worst of all, he had split from his
partner...as well..he was quite brave to try despite his physical
disabilities, but he ran into bad weather.

This accident brings out the unforgiving nature of the rapidly
changing weather on a mountain, and is a harsh reminder of the
risks that are inherent to the sport of mountain climbing. I am
reminded of a statement made by an older mountain-rescue
person in New Hampshire after bringing down yet another dead
person from Mt Washington, "the reason that I am still climbing
mountains is because I know when not to climb, the mountains
will be there forever, I won't."

List of the people who summited: George Van Gorden (leader),
Debbie Benham, Bill Kirkpatrick, Mara, Yanuka, Adrienne, Liz
Binkley, Dongshil, Dennis Hilpakka, Eddie Sudol, Richard and
Helena Verrow, Ted Raczeck and Arun Mahajan.

- Arun Mahajan


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE BACK PAGE
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Scree is the monthly journal of the Peak Climbing
Section of the Sierra Club, Loma Prieta Chapter.

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Chair:
        Charles Schafer / charles.schafer@octel.com
        408-354-1545 home, 408-324-6003 work
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Rock Climbing Classifications

The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing
trips for which you are qualified. No simple rating system can
anticipate all possible conditions.
        Class 1: Walking on a trail.
        Class 2: Walking cross-country, using hands for balance.
        Class 3: Requires use of hands for climbing. A rope may be used.
        Class 4: Requires rope belays.
        Class 5: Technical rock climbing.

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In Upcoming Issues:
(if you sent something that is not here, please send it again)
        Trip Reports: Ojos del Salado, Aconcagua
        Trip Reports: Shasta, Shasta, Palmer, Ranier (almost)
        World's 60 Highest Mountains
        Searching for Small Worlds to Conquer
        Bear Damage in the Eastern Sierra

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Deadline for submissions to the next Scree is Thurday 7/25/96.
Meetings are the second Tuesday of each month.
This publication may not be posted on any public news group.
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"Vy can't ve chust climb?" - John Salathe
(End of July 1996 EScree)