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                                 Scree
Newsletter of the Peak Climbing Section, Sierra Club, Loma Prieta Chapter
September, 1995                                            Vol. 28, No. 9
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publisher's note: The broadcast is changing over to a new system on the
                  15th of September. Many of you are subscribing to the
                  new list server, which is good. Those who have not
                  switched or contacted eckert@netcom.com by the 15th
                  will be moved by your benevolent broadcast dictator.
                  The new service is capable of revealing your email
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                  up) so if you need privacy LET ME KNOW NOW!


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Next meeting (PCS meetings are the second tuesday of each month)
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DATE: Tuesday, Sept. 12

TIME: 7:30 p.m.

LOCATION: Pacific Mountaineer, 200 Hamilton Ave, Palo Alto

PROGRAM: "Appointment with the Sky,'' presented by Kai Wiedman.
     Alpine climbing in the Wind Rivers Range and the Grand Tetons of Wyoming.

With mid-life nipping at his heels and his alpine climbing days
numbered, Kai sets-off in yet another pursuit of three more of the "Fifty
Classic Climbs of North America." This time, he has assembled a powerful team
of PCS'ers that include Bob Suzuki, Jim Curl, and David Ress.

See Jim clash with the 5.9 vicious lie-back crux of Pingora! Ponder Bob
Suzuki crossing the hidiously exposed traverse on Wolf's Head! Watch David
Ress in extreme stemming position ascend the wicked bomb-bay exit chimney of
Warbonet! Count Kai climbing the final pitch twice on Pingora after dropping
some hardware. . .


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Heckle and Jeckle and hide and seek
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Like the two crows in the cartoons, David Harris and
Steve Eckert left town August 23rd chatting about Pentium processors,
patent law, and all those things that need to be decided for the good of the
world.  We were on a mission: Haeckel needed to be climbed so Phyllis' ice
axe could be found and retrieved, David needed to get into shape for an
upcoming John Muir Trail hike, and Steve had never been up the Sabrina Lake
drainage.

(If you find any "Jeckle and Hide" reference in this report, let me know.)
The first day started with an overnight stay at the Bishop Creek Entry
Station, where David slept in line for a permit. It was a pretty long line
even on a Wednesday night, with most of the traffic showing up between 10 pm
and midnight.

We decided to take the shorter route past Donkey and Baboon Lakes (really -
check the names on a map) and then cross a ridge to drop to Echo Lake. This
route is quite good on the way in, but there is a scree chute to drop into
the Echo drainage, so for the return route we went for the Dingleberry Lake
trail (much longer and many ups and downs).

Making good progress, we decided to slog over Wallace Col (12960) with the
packs and bag Mt Wallace (13377) on the way. No problem! From the south,
Wallace is a walk-up with some fun summit boulders.   Wallace Col, however,
is a terrible pass. Loose and sandy, especially on the west side, it should
be avoided. We camped that night at the 12000' lake just west of Wallace,
where the surface froze overnight. Snow on the way in was minimal, and we
never put on crampons. Stream crossings were also easy, unlike the previous
PCS trip where people had to wade.

The second day we left camp around 7 am to crampon up the 35-40 degree
slopes to the ridge east of Fiske. From there to the top of Mt Fiske (13524)
is an fun high class 2 walk with good views of Helen Lake and the head of Le
Conte Canyon.

Just under two months ago, I was on the other side of this drainage: the
reverse perspective was great. The ridge from Fiske to Warlow is rated Class
4, and looked tedious, so we dropped a few hundred feet down the south side
of the ridge and traversed in some snow to the south ridge of Warlow. Boulder
hopping leads to Mt Warlow (13231) and a better view of Muir Pass. The
register has many "arguments" about whether the peak is properly named Warlow
or John Barton, but the conflict seems to have died out in the 70's.

Perhaps someone could enlighten me on the origin of the name John Barton,
and how this peak came to be disputed?

It was only about noon, so we judged that we had time to do the class 3
traverse to Huxley and still pick up Spencer on the way back to camp, but the
Warlow register warned that the ridge was "a no-no". That's odd, we thought,
and went anyway. If there is a class 3 route, we saw no sign of it. Tall
vertical slabs block progress at several points, and downclimbing around them
leads you to round sloping dirty ledges with bad exposure. We went up cracks
in the slabs, or edged along horizontal cracks, and stayed near the ridge
line by crossing from side to side as required.

One spothad a two-finger hold chest high, another hold three feet above, and
nothing else but shallow counter-force friction. (Suzuki would be proud of
me, since he has been beating me up about trusting my boots to hold.) It took
2 hours to do a one mile traverse with 400 feet of gain and loss, but we made
it to Mt Huxley (13117) in one piece. Fortunately, there was an easy way
down: The "west shoulder" route listed by Secor as "class 3...class 2, but
with a headwall" is really all class 2.

The headwall is easily bypassed to the north, staying on scree and boulders
the entire way. There are a few moves in the chute that could be called class
3, and there are one or two moves on the summit blocks, but the level of
difficulty is so different from the OTHER class 3 route that we considered it
class 2 by contrast.

At the base of the chute there appear to be some cliffs which are easily
bypassed by traversing to the ridge just north of the chute.We tanked up with
water, and headed for Mt Spencer (12400) reaching the summit around 5 pm.
This may not be a tall peak, but the views into the Evolution Basin and McGee
Lakes area are great (Secor calls it "swell").

The register claims that somebody lugged their 7-month-old up to the peak.
This was surely a dedicated climbing parent, since you either have to go over
a 13000' pass or walk 30 miles to get to the base of the mountain. Imagine
the diaper pail...

Anyway, four peaks in 12 hours does not equal Waddell's claims (in the
Huxley register) of a 12 hour traverse along the ridge of
Spencer/Haeckel/Wallace/Fiske/Warlow/Huxley.  He's a better man than I,
that's for sure.

That night I paid the price for leaving my heavy sleeping bag at home. It
hit 15 degrees and froze half an inch of ice on the lake! David chopped a
hole and pumped water while I creaked out of the sack and lit the stove, then
we headed for Haeckel with full packs. The saddle between Haeckel and Wallace
seems to be the best way to cross the ridge in this area. It'sclass 2, but
not as loose as Wallace Col.

Haeckel Col is class 3, and about the same height, so I can't figure out why
the guide books don't mention the Haeckel-Wallace saddle as the best crossing
point. We dropped our packs and headed for the summit along the "easy class 3
ledges" on the west side of the south ridge.

The last PCS group to climb Haeckel apparently had to stay close to the
ridge line to avoid snow,which forced them onto tougher rock. We carried an
ice axe, but never used it. Most of the route was at least 100' from the
ridge, and it truly was easy except for a move or two near the summit of
Haeckel (13435).

Once on top, we located Phyllis' ice axe in a crack. David put on his
CalTrans hard-hat and began throwing rocks around, but could not get to it. I
then pulled out the tent pole and bailing wire contraption I had brought with
me to snag the wrist strap. We were in no hurry (it was only 8:30am), and
eventually I got the axe shifted around where it could be pulled out.

Perhaps Phyllis will bestow "an appropriately wonderful award" as promised
in her REWARD notice, but I'll never tell!

The walk out was uneventful, even boring, and we hit very little traffic on
the drive home. Since we had climbed every peak in the area, we shortened the
trip to 3 days and came out on Saturday night. Dinner at Snivvler and 5 1/2
hours of driving got us home around midnight.

If thephone rings and David wants you to help him get into shape, plan on
long days and lots of peaks. Those of you who have had trouble keeping up
with me may take comfort in the fact that I could not keep up with him.

 - Steve Eckert


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Official PCS trips
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Vogelsang, Fletcher
Sept 16-17
11,493 feet, class 2
Leaders: Bob Suzuki (408) 259-0772 H (after 7:30 p.m.)
         Debbie Bulger (408) 457-1036 H (until 10 p.m.)
Topo: Vogelsang Peak

Mid-September is the ideal time to visit the Yosemite high country. Warm
days, cooler evenings and diminishing tourist crowds allow a more peaceful
wilderness experience. From Tuolumne Meadows we'll backpack in seven miles,
drop our packs at camp and climb Fletcher Peak. Sunday morning we'll climb
Vogelsang, then hike out. This will be a relaxed outing suitable for
beginning peak climbers. Limit 8-10 people.     


Crown Point
Oct 7-8
11,346 feet, class 2
Leaders: Judith Dean (415) 854-9288 H (until 10 pm) Judith.Dean@forsythe.stanford.edu
         Debbie Benham (415) 964-0558 H (until 10 pm) dmbenham@aol.com
Topo: Matterhorn Peak 15'

Come on this very easy class 2 climb and enjoy the lovely fall colors hiking
up Robinson Creek out of Twin Lakes. We'll camp at Peeler Lake on Saturday,
then climb the peak on Sunday. Eight miles from Twin Lakes parking lot to
Peeler Lake with 2,500' elevation gain first day.

 
Mt. Langley
Oct 13-15
14,027 feet, class 2
Leader: George Van Gorden (408) 779-2320 H (before 9 PM)
Topos: Mt. Langley, Cirque Peak

Starting at road's end at about 10,000 feet, we will walk to Long Lake at
11,143 feet on Friday.  Saturday, climb the peak and return to camp.  Back to
the cars by noon on Sunday.

 
Yosemite Valley Car Camp
Oct 14-15
Leaders: Cecil Magliocco (408) 358-1168 pmag@ix.netcom.com
         Vreni Rau (510) 582-5578

Enjoy fall day trips from the valley.  Family members welcome.
 

Mt. San Jacinto
Oct 28
10,804 feet
Leader: Steve Eckert (415) 508-0500 eckert@netcom.com

Cactus to Clouds Challenge: This 22 mile hike has over 10,000' of gain, and
2,500' of loss. The trail is not maintained or marked on any map I know of,
but starts near Palm Springs in Southern California (at 5 am) and ascends to
the summit of San Jacinto (10,804').On the way down, we save our knees by
taking the tram forall but 2,500' of the drop. You will have to carry 3-4
quartsof water since this is a desert climb on the lower part ofthe mountain.
It might be cold (or snowy?) on top, and there is only one bail-out point
(the tram). To sign up, you must contact Steve Eckert (415) 508-0500
eckert@netcom.com - your qualifications will be challenged,but don't
take it personally! This is a tough hike, and we want to show the group which
does it every year that Northern California can muster a capable team also.


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Fall/winter trip planning meeting
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It's time for all leaders and prospective leaders to get their
winter trips planned and on the Peak Climbing Section trip schedule.There
will be a trip planning meeting as detailed below to establish a PCS winter
trip schedule.  All leaders and prospective leaders are encouraged to attend.
Please eat dinner before the meeting.

Date:   Tuesday, September 19, 1995
Time:   7:30 PM
Place:  The Magliocco's (see directions)
Bring:  List of trips you would like to lead. Topo maps and guide books may
be helpful.

Notes: If heading south on Highway 17, exit at Lark Avenue and cross back
over the freeway to Los Gatos Blvd. If taking Highway 85, exit at Los Gatos
Blvd/Bascom Ave.After passing Lark Ave. while on Los Gatos Blvd., Los
Gatos-Almaden Road is the third traffic signal.While on Los Gatos-Almaden
Road, there will be a black 35 mile-per-hour sign with white numbers about 25
feet before you get to Longwood Drive.  When you see the sign, slow down
quickly.  It is easy to drive right past the street. Go about 0.4 miles down
Longwood Drive to get to the house.


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Yodels
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BYLAW CHANGE O' THE MONTH

For those of you keeping score at home: Please review the following proposed
change to the PCS By-Laws.* We'll be discussing the change, then voting in
favor or not in favor at the next meeting. Thank you.
Current Text:

ARTICLE III. Membership

Section 1.  ... Membership shall become effective on the first of the  month
following request for subscription or membership, and expire  on December 31
of the same year.

Proposed Change:

Section 1. ... Membership shall become effective on the first of the  month
following request for subscription and expire one year  following request for
subscription.

*This change accurately reflects current practice in PCS.

 -D. Benham


PRIZED PIOLET RETURNED

Phyllis Olrich sent the following note out over the PCS mojo wire:
"If you've read Steve Eckert's latest trip
report, you already know that my knight in shining armor has retrieved the
lost axe from the summit of Haeckel.  Tonight I see my beloved ax again and
bestow that "appropriately wonderful award" upon Steve.

"Thanks to one and all who gave the rescue some thought.  The search is off.''


BELAY STATION HUMOR

Overheard at Lembert Dome recently: Kai Wiedman and Your Humble Editor were at
a belay ledge on the Northwest Books route, minding their own business, when a
shoe came sailing past them.

Kai thought it over for a second and then said: "I guess we're just waiting
for the other shoe to drop.''


CONSERVATION CORNER

Two upcoming events of note:

On Sept. 17, from 4 to 6 p.m., Hidden Villa, Bay Area Action, the Committee
for Green Foothills and the Loma Prieta Chapter are sponsoring a community
forum entitled "Environmenal Activism from the Grassroots.'' "This event,''
says the press release,'' aims to educate the audience about the significance
of grassroots activism in protecting the environment, and to inspire
community building around the common goal of a sustainable, healthy
society.''

Tickets are $10 and must be purchased in advance by calling (415) 949-8653.

For those who would rather act than talk, the 11th annual Coastal Cleanup
Day is Saturday, Sept. 23.

Last year more than 40,000 volunteers in California cleared more than
505,000 pounds of plastics, foam pellets and other debris from beaches,
parks, creeks and lakes. About 105,000 pounds of debris were recycled.

In Berkeley, volunteers found some odd things. (Why does this not surprise
us?) Among them: a wedding dress, an empty bottle of Prozac and a knife, all
in one creek.

The cleanup will run from 9 a.m. to noon at 12 sites in 10 cities in the Bay
Area. Those interested in working in Sunnyvale, Saratoga, Mountain View, Palo
Alto, Campbell, San Jose or Cupertino are urged to call Jennifer George at
(408) 730-7716 to register.

This one's free.


THE WALLS OF DEATH

Planning your next climb? Steve Eckert passes on the following, posted on the
Internet by one Greg Glade:

The August 28th issue of Time magazine has a small chart depicting the
world's five most lethal peaks.  I doubt this takes into account the recent
happenings on K2 and
Rainier.  What this also doesn't take into account, of course, is the number
of climbers attempting the peak, ie. the death percentage.

  Death Totals
 Everest  216
 Washington  116
 McKinley    85
 Rainier    67
 K2     45

(Editor's note: One wonders how the editors of Time could have left out Mont
Blanc, which reportedly extinguishes an average of one person a day in a
typical summer.)


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Determined PCSers survive drive to Split Mountain trailhead
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The clouds looked ominous, but what the heck, we'd come all
this way so we might as well go a little further.  Of course it was still
Friday night, so there wasn't much question at this point, but this was a
theme which would be repeated over the weekend.

Saturday morning the seven of us (Bob Suzuki (Co-Leader (and the one who did
all the work)), Jim Gardner, Jim Ramaker, David Harris, Eddie Sudol, Arnie
Martelli, and yours truly Charles Schafer) met at the point where McMurray
Meadow Road meets Glacier Lodge Road, and transferred everyone into two
4-wheel drive vehicles for the trip in to the trailhead.  We expected some
route-finding difficulty and were not disappointed.  We'd just passed
McMurray Meadow when we crossed the two fords mentioned by Secor, then
continued on what looked like the main road.

However, there looked to be another road off to the left which was not
mentioned.  Things deteriorated from here as the road continued south, then
east, then into what looked like a sandtrap.  Another road (actually more of
a pretend road) had been spotted just before we came onto the sandtrap, so we
backtracked to it (actually we double-backtracked since we missed it the
first time back).

This whisper of a path disappeared pretty quickly, so we continued back to
the two fords and followed the other road, which turned out to be the right
one.  From here, the route description helped a little (we saw the two road
signs mentioned), but at one point Secor talks of turning here, then turning
there, when all we did was follow the main road.  That part was not too hard.


Finally, after two hours, we reached the trailhead. We quickly set to the
trail, which really isn't hard to find if you know where to look (or read the
big sign on the board at the trailhead) and ignore the maps which are in
error.

The trail climbs some 4000 feet in a distance of 5 miles or so, so it is
steep, and there are also some sections which are soft and loose (usually at
the steepest parts), so the climb to camp was not one of my fondest memories.

We did arrive at Red Lake at about 3:00, however, without incident. Its
worth adding that the scenery at Red Lake makes an abrupt departure from the
high desert chaparral that we saw most of the way up, and becomes downright
pretty.  We hit no snow until we got to Red Lake, and it was spotty there,
with the lake almost completely clear of ice (in contrast to a trip report of
3 weeks earlier).We found a campsite in a sheltered area completely clear of
snow , and got our tents (and bivvys) set up just in time to get out of the
way of a hail/thunder storm which had been threatening for a while, and which
finally let loose but good.

All of us, that is, but the two determined warriors who set out to conquer
Mt Tinemaha.  They got dumped on pretty thoroughly but still managed to make
the summit, and returned  to camp about three hours later.  After some
bustling about with dinner, most of us turned in early.

We awoke at 4:30 the next morning, and were moving by 5:45 except for one of
us who decided to go for Tinemaha.  We were able to climb a few hundred feet
without snow, but then moved onto snow fields for the climb up to the
headwall north of Split and the headwall itself.  The snow was actually
pretty soft, although well consolidated, so travel was relatively easy with
no need for crampons.

In fact the headwall looked as though there might be a lot of loose rock
under all that snow, so I was pretty thankful.  It was here that the clouds
looked their most threatening, looking very dark and ominous off in the
distance, while the lighter ones overhead dropped a few showers on us.

We persevered, however, and once on the ridge the showers stopped although
the clouds in the distance continued to threaten.  From here it was
straightforward boulder hopping with a few snow patches to the summit.

And what a glorious summit it was!  There were magnificent views all around,
and everything to the west was covered in a mantle of white. The summit
itself was pretty impressive with a steep drop-off to the notch, then the
south peak rising up sharply on the other side.

We spent longer than we probably should have at the summit, savoring the
view and the accomplishment, but then made up for it with a lot of glissading
back to camp.  We got down in no time at all, and wound up back at camp at
about 1:00 or 1:30.  It took about an hour to pack up, and then we were on
our way down to the cars.

Several knee pounding hours later we were back to the cars and headed for
the Sizzler in Bishop to celebrate.  It was late by the time we got back
home, but it was worth it!

If you have any questions, I can be reached at (408) 324-6003, or at e-mail
address charles.schafer@octel.com.

 - Charles Schafer


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Underwear fashion show on Temple Crag
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On the weekend of August 5/6, six people wanted to climb
Temple Crag but didn't have a permit, so Debbie Benham (the trip leader)
and Cecil Magliocco very graciously left early on Friday to get all the way
to Upper Sage Flat campground and spend the night on the ground in the
appropriate spot to be first in line for a first-come first-served permit.

Debbie knew exactly where to camp: last year, when she arrived first but
didn't camp in the right spot, she was upstaged by a group from L.A. and
missed out.

As it turned out, someone else beat her to the spot, so she was second in
line. More appropriately, she was first in line for a second-come
second-served permit (these are much more valuable as you have to expend huge
amounts of nervous energy worrying whether the person in front is going to
grab all the permits you want).

Luckily, she obtained one. When the rest of us, Charles Schafer (co-leader),
David Harris, Gary Jost and Peter Maxwell, arrived, our concerns changed from
permits to methods of crossing the swollen creek.

Not knowing what the normal crossing, at the outlet of Third Lake, would be
like, we decided to go for the stout bridges over the Second Lake outlet that
Joe Coha and I discovered when we were there over July 4 weekend.

After the obligatory leader pep talk by Debbie (which prompted some
uncomplimentary comments likening it to airline lectures about safety
features on aircraft, and how much attention people pay to them) we headed
off around 9:30 up the North Fork of Big Pine Creek.

I was left wondering if oxygen masks would pop out of the sky in an
emergency, and who I would help first before putting mine on. It wasn't long
before Debbie and Cecil started making comments about tantalizing glimpses of
my underwear - pink floral patterns were becoming visible through a hole in
my trousers which was larger than I had thought. This helped keep the
drudgery from the trudgery.

Further up the trail the ranger was checking permits.  This came as a bit of
a surprise as he wasn't interested in this on July 4.  Apparently, though,
people are coming out of the woodwork in droves as the snow melts and the
quota is filling every day. We asked him about crossing the incredibly
swollen creek and were told that the safest way was to use the bridges at the
outlet of Second Lake, rather than the log jam at Third Lake. This crossing
meant a slog across a snow field (not so bad) and talus (very bad long
traverse) to get up to Third Lake, which is where we camped.  This traverse
didn't do Gary's knee any good - this was his first trip 9 weeks after
surgery.

We checked out the "less safe" log jam later that afternoon and discovered
it to be a breeze.  This suggests it's a viable crossing under almost any
conditions.  Campsites were a little difficult to find at first, but there
are several nice ones quite close to the outlet on the southeast side.

Surprisingly, there were very few mosquitoes. David and Cecil had hoped to
drop packs and continue on to climb Gayley, but it took so long to get to
camp that they gave up the idea as unrealistic.  In order to work off his
energy, David went to sleep instead.

We left camp early on Sunday - 6 am.  The first two hours saw us mostly on
snow up to Contact Pass.  We were glad to have our crampons and ice axes as
the snow was compacted and icy.  It's always nice to bring hardware and
actually have to use it.

David had troubles with his coming loose at first and took to the rock at
the side.  Such was his boundless energy that even with slipping on the loose
stuff he still well outpaced the rest of us. At the pass, after much
discussion of alternatives, we finally elected to take the "easy class 4"
crack, which heads up directly from the pass, rather than descend the 300'
necessary to pick up the normal class 3 chute.  This crack is really a
chimney and sufficiently narrow at one point that we had to haul all our
packs up using a 7 mm rope that Debbie had brought along.

Gary did a sterling job of straddling it but the rest of us wedged ourselves
in and squirmed our way up.  As well as hauling packs, Charles put the rope
to good use for belaying those who wanted a little extra security.  It's an
excellent route and not too difficult.

After the 40' or so, it was a class 2 talus/scree climb almost to the
summit,when it became class 3 again.  It was relatively uninteresting until,
after peeking over a knife-edge at the top, the true summit came into view,
and with it the unmentioned (in both Secor and Roper) class 4 move.  It's
pretty exposed there and we had to get up about 6 feet with very little to
use as purchase.

Not that it was very likely, loosing balance at that point would have had
very serious consequences and Charles became chief belayer once again.  Using
a 7 mm rope, you ask?  It was perfectly capable of taking body weight, which
was all that was needed.

With the very strong, cold wind, plus this bottleneck, we never assembled
everyone together on the summit for photos.  Three was the largest number at
any one time, but that at least made individual shots possible.

We could see a lot of snow from up there.  Sam Mack Lake was still
completely surrounded. On the way back, rather than use the crack we ascended
from Contact Pass, we tried the chute all the way (the so-called normal
route).  This became problematic when it "deteriorated" into hairy class 3,
with the promise of getting worse unless we made a long traverse and dropped
a long way.  Instead,we traversed a little towards the pass and descended to
a point not too far down from the pass.

In retrospect we'd have been better off using the crack because the down
climbing we ended up doing was definitely more difficult. From the pass we
were able to make use of the softened snow in whatever technique one wished,
and all were used:  sitting glissade (with and without rain pants), boot
glissade and plunge stepping.

We were able to stay on snow for most of the descent which made for good
time.  Debbie was having such a good time that she started hallucinating:
she claimed to have met Prince Charming on her way down.

Despite Gary's prodding, however, she was reluctant to tell us what
happened. All the earlier slow sections meant we didn't arrive in camp until
around 2:15, and we still had to pack up.  Perhaps this caused frustration in
Cecil, or perhaps she was on a high from the climb.  Whatever, she attacked
the rip in my trousers (which had become significantly enlarged) and almost
tore one leg completely off.   Unlike David, whose trousers had also ripped
but had put on jeans for the walk out, I had no backup, either for the walk
out or the drive home.  Cecil, who explained her actions by saying "I don't
know what came over me" tried to console me by saying that restaurants have a
sign saying no shirt, no shoes, no service but don't say anything about no
trousers!   As an aside, although David clearly won the "most energetic
person" competition, he lost the much more important fashion contest, with
drab, colorless material seen through the rip in his trousers. David and
Cecil took the car keys and raced off into the distance to bring the cars up
to road's end to meet us.

After saying our goodbyes, Debbie, Cecil and I left at 5:30, had a "gobble
'n' go" at Burger King in Bishop and made it back by 12:30 am.  The others
ate at Sizzler and did some shopping and paid the price .

 - Peter Maxwell


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Private trips
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Mt. Winchell
Sept. 15-17
13768 feet, class 3
Organizer: Siamak Navid (408) 553-3850 W; (415) 361-8548 Hsia@vid.hp.com
(Leader wanted)
Topo:  Mt. Goddard

This is a three-day trip. The plan is to camp at Sam Mack Meadow (or lake),
climb the peak on Saturday and return on Sunday. I will be on vacation Aug.
5-20, so leave messages. 


Mt. Shasta Hotlam Glacier
Sept. 16-17
14,162 feet, class 3/ice
Organizer: Kai Wiedman (415) 347-5234
Co-organizer: Kelly Maas (408) 279-2054
Topo: Wilderness Press: Mt. Shasta

The Hotlam Glacier is the most challenging of Mt. Shasta's glaciers.  The
Hotlam presents three distinct icefalls. Each offer route-finding among
seracs and crevasses. Join Kelly and Kai for some mixed climbing and exposed
blue ice. Technical ice climbing skills are not necessary. Basic ice axe and
crampon skills, including self arrest, are required.


Mt. Dana Couloir
Sept 17
13,000 feet, steep snow
Organizer: George Van Gorden (408) 779-2320 H (before 9 PM)
Topo: Mt. Dana

We will meet at Tioga entrance station entrance at 8:00 AM on Sunday.  We
will go up Glacier Canyon, awesome country, until we reach the glacier, such
as it is.  With ice axe and crampons, we will ascend the couloir, putting
protection in as necessary.  From the top of the couloir, we will go on to
the top and descend by the trail.  Bring a harness and a few carabiners.  I
will be going up Saturday and I hope to get a campsite at Tioga or Ellery Lake.


Mt. Harrington
Sept 23-24
11,005 feet, class 3
Organizer: Paul Magliocco (408)358-1168 pmag@ix.netcom.com
Topo: Marion Peak

This trip starts at an elevation of about 4,500 feet near Cedar Grove in
Kings Canyon and grinds up a steep trail to camp at over 9,500 feet.  The
guide books describe two class 3 routes and one class 4 route on this peak
and mention that the view from the summit is spectacular.  Your signature on
a liability waiver will be required to participate in this trip.


Highland, Raymond Peak
Oct 7-8
10,934 feet, class 2
Organizer: Roger Crawley (415) 321-8602

Car camp at Grovers Hot Springs near Markleeville.  Saturday is a four mile
approach and a 4,000 foot elevation gain to Raymond Peak from Pleasant Valley.
Sunday is Highland Peak, a 3,300 foot gain from the Ebbetts Pass road.


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PCS now has a site on the World Wide Web
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The Peak Climbing Section has joined the information age, with its own site on
the World Wide Web.  What is the Web? It's the most up-to-date of computer network
services. It's a multimedia service, capable of transmitting sound, images, and
video as well as text. It's a hyperlinked service, providing a vast set of
cross-references from one online resource to another. It's a service that's
achieved sudden popularity, with endorsement and support from most computer
network providers.

If you have access to a network, you can probably use the Web. Why is the
PCS on the Web? Our online data bank (or "web page'') has two functions: as a
new member outreach tool and as a current member library resource.

For potential members, our web page provides an overview of our activities,
instructions about how to subscribe to Scree, directions to our meetings
(with maps), and a glossary of mountaineering terms. For current members, our
web page provides information we all need to plan trips, like the SPS peaks
list, addresses and phone numbers of ranger offices and archived reports of
earlier trips.

Our web page provides cross-references (or "hot links'') to other
interesting web resources: the Sierra Club page, the Loma Prieta page,
national park pages, a page for state high pointers, a page on the 50
classics, and more.

Our web page even includes a few seconds of video, filmed by Victor Anderson
and showing Jim Curl leading a PCS group to glorious success at the top of
Mt. Sill.

But the PCS web page is still incomplete. It awaits your contribution of
information, in any multimedia format, that will interest current and future
PCS members. Climb the web and reach the pinnacle of multimedia networking at
the PCS web page.

Our address (or "URL'') on the World Wide Web is
http://reality.sgi.com/csp/pcs/index.html


 -Aaron Schuman schuman@sgi.com


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THE BACK PAGE
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If you are on the PCS broadcast, you now have an EScree subscription.
Send Email to eckert@netcom.com for additions/removals from the broadcast.
(but don't broadcast your subscription request!) The EScree is FREE, but
does not automatically make you a member of the PCS or of the Sierra Club.
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To stay on the PCS membership roster without maintaining a hardcopy
subscription, let the Treasurer know that you are an EScree subscriber.
To become a hardcopy subscriber send a $10 check, payable to the PCS,
to the Treasurer at the address shown below.
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Our presence on the World Wide Web is maintained by Aaron Schuman with
resources donated by Silicon Graphics Inc. The full URL is
   http://reality.sgi.com/csp/pcs/index.html
Send comments, suggestions, and new material to schuman@sgi.com
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*** Rock Climbing Classifications ***

The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing trips for
which you are qualified. No simple rating system can anticipate all possible
conditions.
  Class 1: Walking on a trail.
  Class 2: Walking cross-country, using hands for balance.
  Class 3: Requires use of hands for climbing. A rope may be used occasionally.
  Class 4: Requires rope belays.
  Class 5: Technical rock climbing.


*** Elected Officials ***

Chair:
    Debbie Benham
    415-964-0558, dmbenham@aol.com
    1722 Villa Street (Apt 2), Mountain View CA  94041

Vice Chair / Scheduler:
    Paul Magliocco
    408-358-1168, pmag@ix.netcom.com
    15944 Longwood Drive, Los Gatos CA  95032

Treasurer and Membership Roster:
    Phyllis Olrich
    415-322-0323, 415-725-1541 work, phylliso@forsythe.stanford.edu
    750 Homer Avenue, Palo Alto CA  94301


*** Appointed Positions ***

Scree Editor:
    John Flinn
    415-968-2050, 415-777-8705 work, jnflinn@aol.com
    133 Promethean Way, Mountain View CA  94043

Mailing Labels and Change of Address:
    Paul Vlasveld
    408-247-6472, 408-257-7910 x3613 work
    789 Daffodil Way, San Jose CA  95117

Electronic Scree Publisher and Email Broadcast Operator:
    Steve Eckert
    415-508-0500, eckert@netcom.com

PCS World Wide Web Publisher:
    Aaron Schuman
    415-390-1901 work, schuman@sgi.com