Scree for June, 1995 This is the EScree - the Electronic version of the Scree newsletter from the Peak Climbing Section of the Loma Prieta Chapter of the Sierra Club. If you are on the PCS broadcast, you now have an EScree subscription. Send Email to firstname.lastname@example.org for additions/removals from the broadcast. (but don't broadcast your subscription request!) The EScree is FREE, but does not automatically make you a member of the PCS or of the Sierra Club. To become a hardcopy subscriber send a $10 check, payable to PCS, to this address: 750 Homer Avenue, Palo Alto CA 94301. To stay on the PCS membership roster without maintaining a hardcopy subscription, send email to email@example.com or send a letter to the address above indicating that you are an EScree subscriber. This month's issue is coming out late, due to voting only last night, and most of the articles have already been broadcast... so NEXT month will be the first complete issue. Would you rather get the EScree all in one chunk, or section by section to keep the size of the Email smaller? Should I suppress articles already broadcast, or keep the entire document in one piece? Send email to firstname.lastname@example.org to vote - but please don't broadcast your vote since we have about 100 people on the list and that's too much email. private trips from June issue of Scree Goat Peak June 17-18 12,207 feet, class 2 Organizer: Siamak Navid (415) 361-8548 H (408) 553-3850 W Topo: Marion Peak The hike starts at road's end (5,000 feet) at Cedar Grove (Kings Canyon NP). We will take Copper Creek trail to Grouse Lake (10,473 feet) the first day. On the second day we will climb the peak and return to the trailhead. Matternhorn Peak June 23-25 12,264 feet, class 3 Organizers: Debbie Benham (415) 964-0558 (home, 7-10 p.m.) Brian Stave Topo: Matternhorn Peak We'll take the "...normal route from Twin Lakes. An obvious couloir on the east side of the NE ridge leads to the east ridge. Follow ridge to the top.'' Whew!! (Get ready for the adventure of my lifetime!) Ice axe and crampons required. All hale and hardy participants will be asked to read and sign a liability waiver. Mt. Shasta, Whitney Glacier June 24-26 or 27 14,162 feet, moderate snow Organizer: George Van Gorden (408) 779-2320 Topo: Mt. Shasta This is one of the more difficult routes on Shasta. There are crevasses and some route finding difficulties through the icefall. We will be roped together and some training in crevasse rescue is necessary along with the necessary equipment. Ionian Basin Plus Peaks July 1-9 13,000+ foot peaks; class 3 Hard class 2 cross country with packs Organizers: Steve Eckert (415) 508-0500; email@example.com Warren Storkman (415) 493-8959; DStorkman@aol.com Topos: Blackcap, Goddard, Big Pine Cross through the most remote portion of the Sierra, and get some choice peaks along the way. We will go over Hell For Sure Pass, through the Ionian Basin, follow Dissappearing Creek down the Enchanted Gorge, cross the Black Divide, and then hike out on trail over Bishop Pass. Snow may be encountered! Peak bagging possibilities are endless. This mostly cross country route will take us to the base of Goddard, maybe Black Giant, Scylla, Charybdis, Hansen, McDuffie, Wheel, Citadel, etc. If you don't have an entire week, consider doing only thefirst part of the trip to bag Goddard (3-4 days). To sign up, send $10 deposit and SASE for waiver to Steve Eckert, 1814 Oak Knoll Drive, Belmont CA 94002. Volunteer Peak, Pettit Peak July 3-8 10,788 feet, class 2 Organizer: Debbie Bulger (408) 457-1036 Topos: Tuolumne Meadows, Matterhorn Peak, Hetch Hetchy Reservoir We will start from Tuolumne Meadows, head north on the Pacific Crest trail crossing Virginia Canyon, Matterhorn Canyon and Benson Pass until we arrive at Benson Lake, the "Riviera of northern Yosemite,''according to Secor. After climbing the two peaks, we head downhill to Pate Valley. We complete the loop by treking 5,000 feet up the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne to Lembert Dome. The waterfalls should be spectacular. This will be a private trip due to the heavy snow year. Ice axe recommended. A $5 check reserves your place. El Capitan July 8-9 Class 2 Leader: Judith Yarborough (415) 854-9288 (before 10 PM) Those of us who don't aspire to big wall climbing need to be tricky if we want the same views. We will leave from Tamarack Campground on Saturday morning and hike as far as possible up the back side (sounds a bit prurient) of El Capitan. Limit 8 people (including leader). Campground for Friday night reserved at Hogdon Meadows. Split Mountain July 8-9 14,058 feet, class 3 Organizer: Charles Schafer Co-organizer: Bob Suzuki (408) 259-0772 h (eves) Topos: Split Mtn, Fish Springs 7.5's Saturday will be a route-finding adventure as we try to find our way to the trailhead, then the trail to Red Lake where we'll make camp. Sunday will be peak day, then we'll head on out. Since Split is at the southern end of the Palisades and right on the Sierra Crest, we should get some rather spectacular views from the summit. Mt. Haeckel July 21-23 13,435 feet, class 3 Organizer(s): Phyllis Olrich 750 Homer Ave. Palo Alto, CA 94301-2907 (415) 322-0323 (home) firstname.lastname@example.org Debbie Benham (415) 964-0558 Topos: Mt. Goddard (15'), Mt. Darwin, Mt. Thompson (7.5') From Lake Sabrina we'll hike up the Middle Fork of Bishop Creek to set up basecamp at Hungry Packer Lake on Friday. Saturday, we'll take the east ridge approach to the summit (bring a harness, just in case). If time permits, we'll also do Mt. Wallace (13,377 feet). All participants must sign a waiver. To reserve a spot, send $3 (tocover permit fee) and contact information (name, address, phone, fax, email) to Phyllis at the above address. Deerhorn, Ericsson, Junction, East Vidette Aug 10-14 13,888 feet, class 3 peaks Hard class 2 cross country with packs Organizers: Aaron Schuman (415) 390-1901 work; email@example.com Steve Eckert (415) 508-0500; firstname.lastname@example.org Topos: Mt. Whitney, Mt. Pinchot We enter Bubbs Creek on Aug.10 and camp around East Lake. On Aug. 11 we move the packs to the lakes between Ericsson Crags and Mt Stanford, and climb Deerhorn if we have lots of time. On Aug.12 we move the packs to the saddle, bag Ericsson, and drop around Caltech Pk to camp between Diamond Mesa and Caltech Peak. On Aug. 13 we move packs to Forester Pass and bag Junction Peak, then camp on the Bubbs Creektrail as close to East Vidette as possible. The last day we bag East Vidette and pack out. Ambitious, eh? Everybody better be in good shape! We will start early to beat the heat and allow packing and climbing on the sameday. This is a 5 day trip, but plan on taking an extra day's food in case the going is tough or the weather is bad. To sign up, call or send email to Aaron for instructions. (end of private trips) Official PCS trips from June issue of Scree Arrow Peak, Pinchot, Wynne July 1-4 13,495 feet, class 3 Leader: Kai Wiedman (415) 347-5234 Topos: Mt. Pinchot, Aberdeen Secor says the view of Arrow Peak from Bench Lake (our campsite) is one of the finest in the High Sierra. Our route is one of the hundred classics for the Sierra. Bolton Brown said this of his first ascent, "It called to me at breakfast, its rocky pinnacles beckoned me, its soaring summit challenged me...almost on the run for the sheer joy of that mountain and the delight of climbing up it.'' Please join me and experience the beauty of this seldom visited area. Red and White July 15-16 12,850 feet, class 3 Leader: Chris MacIntosh (415) 325-7841 After June 30, contact John Esterl (510) 526-2216 Topos: Mt. Abbot, Convict L. 7.5' Norman Clyde described McGee Creek as a good approach to this peak, but given his reputation for toughness, that could mean anything! The Northeast Ridge is said to have less loose rock than other routes, helpful for a group ascent. This is a lovely area to visit. Besides a good peak and great views, we should also enjoy wildflowers and other Sierran delights. Snow/water conditions in July: anybody's guess at the time of writing. University & Independence July 29-30 13,632 feet, class 3 Leaders: John & Kate Ingvoldstad (209) 296-8483, (408) 996-7129 Topos: Mt. Pinchot, Mount Whitney On Saturday, following a short backpack from Onion Valley to Robinson Lake, we'll climb University Peak. The Sunday climb of Independence is only a 1,200-foot gain, so you'll be on the road headed home early. Both peaks are class 3 with Independence on the "easy" side. Haeckel, Wallace, Fiske, Huxley Aug 5-12 13,000+ feet, class 3 Topos: Mt. Goddard 15', Mt. Darwin 7.5' Leaders: John Ingvoldstad, Kate Ingvoldstad (408) 996-7129, (209) 296-8483 From Lake Sabrina it's only one day in to Evolution Basin via the col between Mts. Haeckel and Wallace. Once situated, many Class 2 and 3 climbs beckon, including Heackel, Wallace, Fiske and Huxley, all over 13,000. Deserving separate mention is Mt. Darwin, the highest peak in the area at 13,830, and arguably one of the best Class 3 climbs in the Sierra, featuring multiple chutes and route-finding, and very solid, clean rock. Don't miss this week of thrills!