Home | Scree | Back Issues

Scree for June, 1995

This is the EScree - the Electronic version of the Scree newsletter from
the Peak Climbing Section of the Loma Prieta Chapter of the Sierra Club.

If you are on the PCS broadcast, you now have an EScree subscription.
Send Email to eckert@netcom.com for additions/removals from the broadcast.
(but don't broadcast your subscription request!) The EScree is FREE, but
does not automatically make you a member of the PCS or of the Sierra Club.

To become a hardcopy subscriber send a $10 check, payable to PCS, to
this address: 750 Homer Avenue, Palo Alto CA  94301.

To stay on the PCS membership roster without maintaining a hardcopy
subscription, send email to phylliso@forsythe.stanford.edu or send a
letter to the address above indicating that you are an EScree subscriber.

This month's issue is coming out late, due to voting only
last night, and most of the articles have already been
broadcast... so NEXT month will be the first complete issue.

Would you rather get the EScree all in one chunk, or section
by section to keep the size of the Email smaller? Should I
suppress articles already broadcast, or keep the entire
document in one piece? Send email to eckert@netcom.com to
vote - but please don't broadcast your vote since we have
about 100 people on the list and that's too much email.

private trips from June issue of Scree

Goat Peak 
June 17-18
12,207 feet, class 2
Organizer: Siamak Navid
(415) 361-8548 H
(408) 553-3850 W
Topo: Marion Peak
 The hike starts at road's end (5,000 feet) at Cedar Grove (Kings Canyon NP).
We will take Copper Creek trail to Grouse Lake (10,473 feet) the first day.
On the second day we will climb the peak and return to the trailhead. 

Matternhorn Peak
June 23-25
12,264 feet, class 3
Organizers: Debbie Benham
(415) 964-0558 (home, 7-10 p.m.)
Brian Stave
Topo: Matternhorn Peak
 We'll take the "...normal route from Twin Lakes. An obvious couloir on the
east side of the NE ridge leads to the east ridge. Follow ridge to the top.''
Whew!! (Get ready for the adventure of my lifetime!) Ice axe and crampons
required. All hale and hardy participants will be asked to read and sign a
liability waiver.

Mt. Shasta, Whitney Glacier
June 24-26 or 27
14,162 feet, moderate snow
Organizer: George Van Gorden
(408) 779-2320
Topo: Mt. Shasta
 This is one of the more difficult routes on Shasta. There are crevasses and
some route finding difficulties through the icefall. We will be roped
together and some training in crevasse rescue is necessary along with the
necessary equipment.

Ionian Basin Plus Peaks
July 1-9
13,000+ foot peaks; class 3
Hard class 2 cross country with packs
Organizers: Steve Eckert
(415) 508-0500; eckert@netcom.com
Warren Storkman
(415) 493-8959; DStorkman@aol.com
Topos: Blackcap, Goddard, Big Pine
 Cross through the most remote portion of the Sierra, and get some choice
peaks along the way. We will go over Hell For Sure Pass, through the Ionian
Basin, follow Dissappearing Creek down the Enchanted Gorge, cross the Black
Divide, and then hike out on trail over Bishop Pass. Snow may be encountered!
Peak bagging possibilities are endless. This mostly cross country route will
take us to the base of Goddard, maybe Black Giant, Scylla, Charybdis, Hansen,
McDuffie, Wheel, Citadel, etc. If you don't have an entire week, consider
doing only thefirst part of the trip to bag Goddard (3-4 days). To sign up,
send $10 deposit and SASE for waiver to Steve Eckert, 1814 Oak Knoll Drive,
Belmont CA 94002.

Volunteer Peak, Pettit Peak
July 3-8
10,788 feet, class 2
Organizer: Debbie Bulger
(408) 457-1036
Topos: Tuolumne Meadows, Matterhorn Peak, Hetch Hetchy Reservoir
 We will start from Tuolumne Meadows, head north on the Pacific Crest trail
crossing Virginia Canyon, Matterhorn Canyon and Benson Pass until we arrive
at Benson Lake, the "Riviera of northern Yosemite,''according to Secor. After
climbing the two peaks, we head downhill to Pate Valley. We complete the loop
by treking 5,000 feet up the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne to Lembert Dome.
The waterfalls should be spectacular. This will be a private trip due to the
heavy snow year. Ice axe recommended. A $5 check reserves your place.

El Capitan
July 8-9
Class 2
Leader: Judith Yarborough
(415) 854-9288 (before 10 PM)
 Those of us who don't aspire to big wall climbing need to be tricky if we
want the same views. We will leave from Tamarack Campground on Saturday
morning and hike as far as possible up the back side (sounds a bit prurient)
of El Capitan. Limit 8 people (including leader). Campground for Friday night
reserved at Hogdon Meadows.

Split Mountain
July 8-9
14,058 feet, class 3
Organizer: Charles Schafer
Co-organizer: Bob Suzuki
(408) 259-0772 h (eves)
Topos: Split Mtn, Fish Springs 7.5's
 Saturday will be a route-finding adventure as we try to find our way to the
trailhead, then the trail to Red Lake where we'll make camp.  Sunday will be
peak day, then we'll head on out. Since Split is at the southern end of the
Palisades and right on the Sierra Crest, we should get some rather
spectacular views from the summit.

Mt. Haeckel
July 21-23
13,435 feet, class 3
Organizer(s):  Phyllis Olrich
750 Homer Ave.
Palo Alto, CA  94301-2907
(415) 322-0323 (home)
Debbie Benham
(415) 964-0558
Topos: Mt. Goddard (15'), Mt. Darwin, Mt. Thompson (7.5')
 From Lake Sabrina we'll hike up the Middle Fork of Bishop Creek to set up
basecamp at Hungry Packer Lake on Friday. Saturday, we'll take the east ridge
approach to the summit (bring a harness, just in case).  If time permits,
we'll also do Mt. Wallace (13,377 feet). All participants must sign a waiver.
To reserve a spot, send $3 (tocover permit fee) and contact information
(name, address, phone, fax, email) to Phyllis at the above address.

Deerhorn, Ericsson, Junction, East Vidette
Aug 10-14
13,888 feet, class 3 peaks
Hard class 2 cross country with packs
Organizers: Aaron Schuman
(415) 390-1901 work; schuman@sgi.com
Steve Eckert
(415) 508-0500; eckert@netcom.com
Topos: Mt. Whitney, Mt. Pinchot
 We enter Bubbs Creek on Aug.10 and camp around East Lake. On Aug. 11 we move
the packs to the lakes between Ericsson Crags and Mt Stanford, and climb
Deerhorn if we have lots of time. On Aug.12 we move the packs to the saddle,
bag Ericsson, and drop around Caltech Pk to camp between Diamond Mesa and
Caltech Peak. On Aug. 13 we move packs to Forester Pass and bag Junction
Peak, then camp on the Bubbs Creektrail as close to East Vidette as possible.
The last day we bag East Vidette and pack out. Ambitious, eh? Everybody
better be in good shape! We will start early to beat the heat and allow
packing and climbing on the sameday. This is a 5 day trip, but plan on taking
an extra day's food in case the going is tough or the weather is bad. To sign
up, call or send email to Aaron for instructions.

(end of private trips)

Official PCS trips from June issue of Scree

Arrow Peak, Pinchot, Wynne
July 1-4
13,495 feet, class 3
Leader: Kai Wiedman
(415) 347-5234
Topos: Mt. Pinchot, Aberdeen
 Secor says the view of Arrow Peak from Bench Lake (our campsite) is one of
the finest in the High Sierra. Our route is one of the hundred classics for
the Sierra. Bolton Brown said this of his first ascent, "It called to me at
breakfast, its rocky pinnacles beckoned me, its soaring summit challenged
me...almost on the run for the sheer joy of that mountain and the delight of
climbing up it.'' Please join me and experience the beauty of this seldom
visited area.

Red and White
July 15-16
12,850 feet, class 3
Leader: Chris MacIntosh
(415) 325-7841
After June 30, contact John Esterl
(510) 526-2216
Topos: Mt. Abbot, Convict L. 7.5'
 Norman Clyde described McGee Creek as a good approach to this peak, but
given his reputation for toughness, that could mean anything!  The Northeast
Ridge is said to have less loose rock than other routes, helpful for a group
ascent. This is a lovely area to  visit.  Besides a good peak and great
views, we should also enjoy wildflowers and other Sierran delights.
Snow/water conditions in July: anybody's guess at 
the time of writing.

University & Independence
July 29-30
13,632 feet, class 3
Leaders: John & Kate Ingvoldstad
(209) 296-8483, (408) 996-7129
Topos: Mt. Pinchot, Mount Whitney 
 On Saturday, following a short backpack from Onion Valley to Robinson Lake,
we'll climb University Peak. The Sunday climb of Independence is only a
1,200-foot gain, so you'll be on the road headed home early. Both peaks are
class 3 with Independence on the "easy" side.

Haeckel, Wallace, Fiske, Huxley
Aug 5-12
13,000+ feet, class 3
Topos: Mt. Goddard 15', Mt. Darwin 7.5'
Leaders: John Ingvoldstad, Kate Ingvoldstad
(408) 996-7129, (209) 296-8483
 From Lake Sabrina it's only one day in to Evolution Basin via the col
between Mts. Haeckel and Wallace. Once situated, many Class 2 and 3 climbs
beckon, including Heackel, Wallace, Fiske and Huxley, all over 13,000.
Deserving separate mention is Mt. Darwin, the highest peak in the area at
13,830, and arguably one of the best Class 3 climbs in the Sierra, featuring
multiple chutes and route-finding, and very solid, clean rock. Don't miss
this week of thrills!