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                                 Scree
Newsletter of the Peak Climbing Section, Sierra Club, Loma Prieta Chapter
December, 1995                                            Vol. 28, No. 12
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EScree Publisher's Note: The hardcopy Scree is now being created in
MicroSoft Word V6, which should be the same format for PC and MAC
versions. The entire document is over 200kB, but I would be willing
to email a test version to anyone who has the ability to "uudecode"
binary files (I can send you a DOS version of uudecode, and I know
it is available on the Internet for MacOS). If there is a Word/HTML
converter available, we can put the entire Scree, pictures and all,
in our Web page. Contact eckert@netcom.com if you are interested.

- Ed.

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NEXT MEETING
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PROGRAM: Party!
DATE: Tuesday 12 Dec 1995
TIME: 7:30 pm
LOCATION: The famous Cafe Iris at Silicon Graphics

To get to Silicon Graphics, take the Shoreline Blvd exit 
from US-101 in Mountain View. From either the 
northbound or southbound directions, make a right exit, 
then turn left at the top of the ramp, heading north 
through the industrial park.

1.3 miles from the top of the ramp, there'll be the 
unmistakable Shoreline Amphitheater on your left - a 
giant two poled white tent Another landmark at the same 
corner is the charming red abstract sculpture on your 
right.

Turn right at that corner, onto Stierlin Court. You're on 
the SGI campus. Park anywhere that isn't a fire lane, a 
handicapped space, or a loading dock. Building 5 (with 
Cafe Iris) is the fourth building on the right.

Bring your "best" potluck dish. If you need a suggestion 
for what to bring, follow this guide based on the initial 
letter of your last name:

  - A-F: snacks, appetizers, salads (28%)
  - G-L: drinks (25%)
  - M-R: main course (24%)
  - S-Z: desserts (23%)

NOTE: Names have been re-arranged from last year to 
avoid picking on the same people!

           ^
           |
      to the Bay
         |   |     ------     ------          ------     -----         ^
         | S |     |    |     |    |          |    |     |   |         |
    ^ ^  | h |     | 12 |     | 11 |          | 10 |     | 9 |       North
   / v \ | o |     |    |     |    |          |    |     |   |         |
  /     \| r |     ------     ------          ------     -----         ^
   Amph. | e |
         | l |                                                        -----
 --------- i ---------------------------------------------------|     |   |
 Amphith.  n             Stierlin Court                         |     | 8 |
   Pkwy    e                                                    |     |   |
 ---------   ---------------------------------------------------|     |   |
         | B |(S)                                                     -----
         | l |                                                          |
         | v |     -----     ----- -----              ----- -----     -----
         | d |     |   |     |   | |   |              |(C)| |   |     |   |
         |   |     | 1 |     | 2 |-| 3 |     (G)      | 5 |-| 6 |     | 7 |
         |   |     |   |     |   | |   |              |   | |   |     |   |
         |   |     -----     ----- -----              ----- -----     -----
         |   |
         |   |      (S) = Charming Red Abstract Sculpture
       to US-101    (G) = Gazebo
           |        (C) = Cafe Iris
           v


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PCS Holiday Party
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We looked for graphics of a pine tree, a menorah, the 
Matterhorn, a creche, etc.... But in the end we decided to 
use these pretty pictures instead so as not to offend 
anyone! If you care about the name of the party, make 
sure to bring it up at the meeting.

This Winter Climbing Celebration (sometimes called 
"The Christmas Party", by people who don't know about 
the Chanukah Celebration, the Solstice Fling, or the 
Kwaanza Bash) will be a rousing evening of food and 
drink, songs and games (nerds are welcome also, 
according to one of the organizers). There will be a 
potluck dinner, followed by a slide show of everybody's 
favorite trips. Bring ten of your most exciting, 
embarrassing, or "hideous exposure" slides to show at the 
party!

There's updated information and even a gif map to the 
Cafe Iris in
    http://reality.sgi.com/csp/pcs/xmas.html

Aaron and Anouchka, our co-sponsors at SGI, managed to 
get access to this facility at no charge.!

Thanks, SGI !


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1996 PCS Roster Needs Updating
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Paul Vlasveld will have the current PCS mailing list at the 
December meeting. Plan to attend, and to check your 
name/address/phone/email information. The 1996 roster 
will be published in the January or February Scree, and 
will contain email addresses for those who wish to release 
them. You must contact Paul if you wish to have your 
email info listed (just being signed up for the SC-PCS 
Email broadcast is not enough because your name is not 
always associated with your email address).

We need to help the new PCS treasurer (Jim Ramaker) 
start the official membership list at the meeting also, now 
that those who have a free EScree subscription (as 
opposed to the hardcopy Scree) can still be listed as PCS 
members with the right to vote.


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Multi-Media Trip Reports
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Those who read trip reports on the PCS web page should 
be  overjoyed to see the arrival of multimedia reports. 
Kelly's story of his trek up Mount Ritter in August 1995,

    http://reality.sgi.com/csp/pcs/Reports/1995.8.html#ritter

includes a bit of highlighted text referring to a photo. 
Click on that text, and you download a splendid gif image 
(retouched by Anouchka) of four of Kelly's companions 
struggling up the glacier.

Peter's July 1995 trip to Mont Blanc ("Aguille to 
Disagree") is another example:

    http://reality.sgi.com/csp/pcs/Reports/1995.8.html#argentiere

I'd encourage PCS reporters to provide me with 
multimedia material. Photos are the likeliest extension to 
prose, but I'll take audio tape, video tape, virtual reality 
models, you name it. If it can be sent over the web, I'll 
publish it.

The kind of pictures I want are action shots of PCS people 
having fun climbing. Or PCS people scared out of their 
minds climbing. Or PCS people freezing their butts off 
climbing. Good facial expression is everything in a photo. 
I don't need scenery shots without people. I don't really 
like posed summit photos unless they tell a story.

If you are lucky enough to have a color scanner, you can 
email scanned images to . But for 
everybody else, just loan me your prints. I'll scan them for 
you and return them.

If you can view MPEG video, take a look at Jim Curl's 
glorious ascent of Mount Sill on July 3, 1993, in Victor 
Anderson's video,

    http://reality.sgi.com/csp/pcs/MultiMedia/sill.mpg

- Aaron Schuman


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PCS / STS / DHS / CMC / SPS OnLine!
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Whether or not you are receiving the hardcopy Scree, 
consider signing up for the SC-PCS Email broadcast: We 
exchange up-to-the-minute road conditions, items of 
general interest for which there is not room in the Scree, 
and last-minute trip announcements. Anyone can send 
messages to the entire list, which now has about 170 
subscribers, compared to 200 hardcopy Scree subscribers. 
For information, send email to  
with the one-line message
    info sc-pcs
or subscribe with the one-line message
    subscribe sc-pcs

There are several other lists associated with the Loma 
Prieta Chapter. I'm working with the Ski Touring Section 
to get their newsletter (Track) sent out via email, and the 
Day Hiking Section already sends their schedules over 
their broadcast list. To find out more, just replace "sc-pcs" 
with "sc-sts" or "sc-dhs" in the info/subscribe lines above.

In a similar vein, there is an email broadcast list for the 
California Mountaineering Club. This group has 
broadcast their climbing schedule also. For information, 
send email to  with the message
    info ca-cmc
or subscribe with the one-line message
    subscribe ca-cmc

If you would like an electronic copy of the National, 
Chapter, or PCS bylaws, you can get them by sending 
Email to  with one or more of 
these lines in the message:
    GET /pub/ec/eckert/broadcast/SierraClubBylaws.txt
    GET /pub/ec/eckert/broadcast/LomaPrietaChapterBylaws.txt
    GET /pub/ec/eckert/broadcast/PeakClimbingSectionBylaws.txt

For a complete list of the files available, including a list of 
Sierra Peaks and Ranger Contact info, the last few issues 
of the EScree, and official Sierra Club policies, send this 
two-line message to 
    DIR /pub/ec/eckert/broadcast
    DIR /pub/ec/eckert/SierraClubArchives

We just received word that the Sierra Peaks Section (SPS) 
and several other sections from the Angeles Chapter 
intend to start broadcasting their climbing schedule also, 
since we often climb in the same places and many people 
are members of both groups.

At this time, I don't plan to include the SPS schedule in 
the Scree, since they have so many hikes, but I'll certainly 
consider it if there is a demand. On the next page you'll 
find an extract of their most recent schedule, in case 
you're going to LA for the holidays

- Ed.

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SPS/DPS/HPS December Schedule Summary
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Here's a summary listing of the next month's outings of 
the Angeles Chapter's climbing sections (HPS, DPS, SPS). 
Members and nonmembers welcome.

If it's welcome, I plan to post a regular monthly list of 
Angeles climbing outings [on the sc-pcs email broadcast] 
for anyone who's interested and around to join us.

We're getting the climbing sections working together on 
common interests, both inside and outside the Chapter. 
Our recent ExComm election is a demonstration; half of 
the ten-member board are now SPS members/leaders.

Let's get more inter-Chapter outings participation and 
dialog going. The SPS (and CMC) has facilitated some of 
that, with it's far-flung membership. Your list server is a 
great example of what can be done.

DEC 2 - O: Topatopa Bluff (6367') 
Strenuous, 14 miles, 4500' gain.

DEC 2-3 - I: Last Chance (8456'), Sandy 
(7062'): Two moderate trudges in 
Death Valley

DEC 2-3 - I: Sheephole Mtn (2927'), Pinto 
Mtn (3983'): Sat easy 9 mi rt, 2400' 
gain, Sun 5 mi rt, 2100' gain.

DEC 2-3 - I: Rosa Point (5038'), Villager 
(5756'): Tough class 2 cross-country 
peaks in Anza Borrego.

DEC 2-3 - I: Rabbit Peak (6640'), 
Villager (5756') Very strenuous 
approximately 21 mi, 7400' gain 
backpack all cross-country.

DEC 9 - O: San Gabriel (6161'), Mt 
Disappointment (5994'), Mt Deception 
(5796'): 6 mi rt, 1300' gain.

DEC 9 - O: Round (5272'), Luna (5967'), 
Rattlesnake (6131'): Moderately easy, 
8 miles, 2200' gain.

DEC 9-10 - I: Stepladder Mtn (2927'), 
Chemehuevi Peak (3694'): Moderately 
paced climb in San Bernardino.

DEC 13 - SPS Annual Banquet Celebrating 
40 Year of Sierra Club Climbing.

DEC 16 - O: Monrovia Peak (5409'): 
Strenuous 12 mi rt, 5000' gain hike 
from Monrovia Canyon Park.

DEC 16-17 - M: Kofa (4877'), Castle Dome 
(3788'): Join aging leader for class 
3+ scramble in distant Arizona.

DEC 16-17 - I: Beauty Pk (5548'), Iron 
Springs Mtn (5755'), Combs Pk (6193') 
Two bush heaps.

DEC 30 - O: Josephine Peak (5558'): 
Prepare for the New Year with this 
moderate hike to local peak; 6mi 
rt,1800'.

- Erik Siering (very much condensed for Scree)


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Winds In The Night
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Siamak Navid, Bill Kirkpatrick, and I (Jim Ramaker) 
drove over to the Palisades to tackle Mt. Winchell 
(13,768) on a three-day weekend in mid-September. We 
spent the first night at Deadman Summit on Highway 395 
-- if you're heading over to the Bishop area, Deadman 
Summit is far warmer and more comfortable than Camp 
9, and it's only about 1000 feet lower, so you still get 
some acclimatization.

On Friday morning we drove to Glacier Lodge on the Big 
Pine Creek road for breakfast, then shouldered our packs 
about 9:30 and hiked up past First, Second, and Third 
Lakes. About 2:30 we arrived at Sam Mack Meadow, a 
100-yard long patch of bright green grass amid the rocks 
at 11,000 feet, with one of those wide, shallow alpine 
creeks running down the middle of it. We set up camp in 
the rocky grove of trees to the right and took naps in the 
afternoon sun.

A wind came up in the late afternoon, and things cooled 
off quickly as the sun dipped below the massive 14,000 
foot ridge of Thunderbolt Peak to the southwest. After 
supper the wind really started blowing, so we climbed in 
our bags around 7 to keep warm. We thought we'd lie 
awake for hours waiting to get tired, but actually it was a 
wonderful experience lying there toasty warm while the 
wind roared across the ridges and through the trees, the 
sky slowly darkened, and the stars and the Milky Way 
appeared.

Saturday morning we were up at 6 and rolling just after 7. 
A steep snow gully at the west end of the meadow offered 
a direct route to the alpine basin above, but it was rock 
hard at this hour so we turned right and climbed up ledges 
toward rockbound Sam Mack Lake. At the far end of the 
lake we got caught up on a hump with cliffs dropping off 
to left, right, and center, but Siamak found a way to climb 
down so we could go forward instead of retracing our 
steps. For the next two hours we walked gently upward 
across snowfields and moraines, arriving at the base of the 
peak around 10.

We spotted the two gullies mentioned in Secor, separated 
by a steep buttress with two pinnacles on top of it. Just 
right of the two pinnacles, high up in the right hand gully, 
is a prominent area of white rock. We climbed up the 
right hand gully to the top edge of the area of white rock 
(which is about 50 feet from the top of the gully), then 
traversed left and crossed the buttress into the left hand 
gully, which is much easier than the right hand gully at 
this point. From there, a couple hundred feet of easy class 
3 took us to the summit.

Siamak and I topped out at 11:30, and then Siamak 
generously climbed down several hundred feet to check on 
Bill, who'd been climbing at his own pace. After awhile 
all three of us were on top, enjoying the views of 
Thunderbolt, North Pal, and their glaciers, and Dusy 
Basin and the Mt. Goddard area to the west. Last night's 
wind had died down, so we spent over an hour on top, 
taking hero photos, eating lunch, and reading the register.

Descent down the gully and the moraines, past a 
snowbound, iceberg-filled lake, and down the steep snow 
gully to the meadow took about 2  hours, so we had 
plenty of time for another great afternoon nap before 
cooking supper. Around 6 the wind came up again, so we 
retreated to our bags again around 7 to get warm, thus 
ensuring a PCS record for hours of sleep on a weekend 
climbing trip.

Sometime in the wee hours I was jolted awake by a weird 
yowling sound close by, and next morning I found some 
large prints with claw marks in the mud by the creek, so 
it's possible we were visited by a mountain lion. I 
carefully scanned the barren valley for him next morning 
but of course the phantom had disappeared.

Over breakfast we talked to a couple of technical climbers 
camped nearby. They were planning to do the Palisades 
traverse from Thunderbolt Peak to Mt. Sill, but they gave 
new meaning to the term non-alpine start_at 9 a.m. 
when we hiked out they were still puttering around 
cooking breakfast.

The hike out was pleasant except for the last hour through 
treeless high-desert sagebrush in the hot sun. Thankfully, 
we were at the car by noon, and by 1 p.m. we were sitting 
in the air-conditioned Sizzler in Bishop, as another 
grueling PCS epic drew to a close.

- Jim Ramaker

 
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The Ladies And I Go For A Stroll
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Twice in October I listed an extreme hike with both the 
Day Hiking and Peak Climbing Sections. Twice in 
October I was the only male on the trip. Hey, guys, what's 
up? Gone soft? It's not all bad to be surrounded by the 
opposite sex, but it makes you careful about the jokes you 
tell... Anyway, here's just a quick note about each climb:

Clouds Rest and Half Dome on 10/14/95: Dee Booth, 
Suzanne Remien, Bonnie Reusch, and Steve Eckert took 
advantage of Cecil Magliocco's Yosemite car camp 
arrangements as a jumping off point for this day hike. We 
gathered at Happy Isles (in Yosemite Valley) just at first 
light and stormed up the Mist Trail. Despite the fears of 
some, the "mist" was only a memory at this time of year, 
the steps were all dry and the climb was not as cold as 
anticipated. Two of us stopped for water in Little 
Yosemite Valley, and spent the next hour and a half 
trying to catch Dee and Bonnie. Dee summitted first, 
singing "Rocky's Theme" and dancing on the rocks. (OK, 
not really dancing, but showing the obvious advantages of 
concerted training.)

We had a nice long lunch and headed over to Half Dome, 
where the cable supports had already been taken down for 
the season. It was late enough in the day that the crowd 
was thinning, and we took advantage of the pile of gloves 
at the bottom of the cables. The cables had to be picked up 
as you walked up the slope, but this was not really a 
problem. Dee got to the cables first, but decided not to go 
up again, and Bonnie had a last-minute surge of energy as 
perhaps the last person to summit that day. We made our 
way back to the cars as it got dark, after about 8000' of 
gain and 27 miles, and finished off the day with beer and 
chips in the Valley (more smoky than usual due to 
"controlled burn" fires).

San Jacinto on 10/28/95: Dee Booth, Bonnie Reusch, and 
Steve Eckert joined the Coachella Valley Hiking Club for 
their third annual "Cactus to Clouds Challenge" day hike. 
Dinesh Desai tipped us off that this climb was becoming a 
classic: The "Outlaw Trail" starts in Palm Springs (at the 
west end of Ramon Road just off Highway 111) and winds 
up through the desert to Long Valley (the upper end of the 
aerial tram). This trail is not maintained, but it's not 
illegal either. From the tram station, the angle of ascent 
tapers off and the trail becomes official.

The Angeles Chapter's Desert Peaks Section, and the San 
Diego Peaks Club, also did climbs of the same route on 
the same day, for a reported total of 80 people! It was 
astonishing to those of us from the Bay Area that a day 
hike with over 10,500' of gain could draw such a crowd, 
but people in their 60's were slugging it out with best of 
us. By starting before dawn, we avoided most of the heat. 
The peak was cool (mid-40s) with high cloud cover and 
haze in the valley, but we enjoyed it just the same. For 
reference, the CVHC has 700 members, and is only 3 
years old: That's an outreach program, eh? Anyway, on 
the way back down, we stopped at the top of the tram for 
an "Alpine Mudslide" - some concoction with Kahlua and 
whipped cream and who knows what else. It did knock the 
aches off the day.

- Steve Eckert


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WANT AD: Roommate
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M/F Roommate Wanted to share Townhouse: Santa Clara 
near 237. $450/mo + 1/2 utilities includes: off street 
parking, access to swimming pool, private bath, furnished 
living spaces, use of kitchen etc. Non-smoking and non-
TV addicted only please. Phone 408-970-0760, or email 
.

- Tim Hult

 
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Thanks & Goodbye to Kai
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Kai Wiedman has resigned as Chair of the Mountaineering 
Committee after serving five long years. If any PCS member is 
interested in filling this vacancy, please notify Debbie Benham 
at 415/964-0558. The Mountaineering Chair is appointed by the 
Section Chair, coordinates the Mountaineering Committee 
(comprised of two other people, one of whom is the current Trip 
Scheduler), and is one of three people to oversee PCS 
Leadership. They review completed leadership applications and 
decide eligibility for leading official, Sierra Club PCS trips. 
Interested persons should be an active, experienced leader of the 
Section and have shown sound judgment and mountaineering skill.

- Debbie Benham
 

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Climbing and Training Insurance Is Back!
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This article appeared in the "Group And Chapter Outings 
Newsletter". This is a Sierra Club Publication dated 
November 1995, Edition III, Sierra Club Outings 
Department, 730 Polk Street, San Francisco, CA 94109 
(415) 923-5652

Questions on outings policies and insurance (including 
certificates of insurance): Cathy Benton (415) 923-5652 or 
Hamilton Leong (415) 923-5574. You can also access these and 
other Sierra Club people through the Internet at 


- Charlie Knapke
 
               MOUNTAINEERING COVERAGE EXPANDED!
                Limited training now allowed!

The Club's insurance coverage has been renewed and expanded 
effective November 1st. We are pleased to report that we 
negotiated broader coverage for our domestic liability insurance 
while keeping the premium the same.

Leaders have done an exemplary job of conducting outings and 
events where safety is of primary concern.

We're also please to report that limited training, which was 
previously excluded on rock-climbing and mountaineering trips, 
will now be allowed. This coverage extends to instruction 
courses designed to improve or certify climbing skills for leaders 
of such activities, or to instruction courses or training schools for 
participants who are Sierra Club members, designed to improve 
climbing skills. As in the past, all rock-climbing and 
mountaineering activities must be certified in advance by the 
Mountaineering Oversight Committee, (Cal French, chair). For 
information or an application, contact Cathy Benton (see 
resources box, page 4).

Participants on rock-climbing/mountaineering outings will no 
longer be assessed a $10 per day fee for Accidental Death and 
Dismemberment (AD&D) coverage, nor will the leaders have to 
pay for Workers Compensation coverage, though they will still 
be covered by the policy.

Leaders will still be required to complete an After Trip Report 
within 30 days of the trip end date. By applying for, obtaining 
approval for, and running a mountaineering/rock-climbing 
outing, leaders agree to fulfill this essential part of the 
requirements.

As with any trip, leaders are also required to return an Accident 
or Illness Report whenever an injury or accident occurs. Any 
serious injury should be reported immediately by telephone and 
followed up with a written report.

Our thanks go out for all the Outings Leaders for their efforts in 
contributing to an effective risk management program.

The risk management team is planning to update the insurance 
manual for distribution in the spring. If you have any questions 
or comments that would help make the manual more effective, 
please let us know very soon so that we may incorporate your 
comments.

- Cathy Benton and Hamilton Leong
 

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Changes Coming for Permit Reservations
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Peter and I checked at a few ranger stations on Labor Day 
weekend to find current quotas for trailheads. We were 
told that the backcountry permit system was to be 
revamped for the next permit season and to be taken over 
by a private service. Quotas also may be changes, we were 
told. We were to keep checking back. I can't remember if 
this was mentioned at any of the meetings.

Today I called Mike Morse, (619)924-5511, at the 
Mammoth Ranger station to check on the status of the 
situation. He's the backcountry ranger, I think. He said 
that they're still accepting bids from folks to take over the 
system, but that it would be in place by March l. When I 
asked him if it also affected Yosemite, with the Feb. 1 
deadline, he said he thought it only involved the Inyo 
National Forest trailheads.

Peter and I had thought the change was to cover the whole 
Sierra. So that's the latest info. Morse advised me to call 
again in January and to also check the papers as it will be 
explained there as well.

If I'm not at the next meeting, arrive late, leave early, etc., 
will someone please report this information? Thanks,

- Cecil Magliocco
 
         Below is an UNVERIFIED post from the 
    rec.backcountry newsgroup on the Internet. - Ed.

Date: Fri, 10 Nov 1995 16:28:49 GMT
From: brick@ix.netcom.com
Newsgroups: rec.backcountry
Subject: All Mt Whitney Trips Will Require $ Permit - 
Even Day Trips

Beginning in 1996, ANY visit to the summit of Mt. 
Whitney will require a special permit. If you have hiked 
from Yosemite on the John Muir Trail, you will need this 
permit to complete the trip from trail junction to the 
summit.

There will be a fee charged to get the permit, in addition 
to a quota system. The exact details will not be worked out 
until January, but the decision has been made.

This was a" management decision," and did not require 
public comment, or approval. For further information, 
contact the Mt Whitney Ranger Station, after January, at 
619-876-6200 The person responsible for this change is:

Patricia Franco White Mountain Ranger District
798 N. Main, Bishop, CA 93514

- Brick Robbins
 

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Mt. Harrington Trip Report
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Four of us set out on Friday, 9/22/95, for Kings Canyon to 
climb Mt. Harrington. The participants were Jim 
Gardiner, Greg McDonald, Jeff West, and Paul 
Magliocco, the trip organizer. The plan was to meet Steve 
King, who was driving up from his house near Fresno, at 
Road's End on Saturday morning.

We stopped for dinner at the Old Spaghetti Factory on the 
north side of Highway 180, just a short distance east of 
Highway 99. This is connected to the Old Spaghetti 
Factory in San Jose, for those of you who like the place.

After entering Kings Canyon National Park, we started 
the proverbial Friday night discussion of "where should 
we crash for the next few hours without getting hassled by 
rangers." Well, we think we found a great spot. To get 
there, go 4.4 miles past the sign that says Grant's Grove 
Village (toward Cedar Grove). You will come to a dirt 
road on the left with a sign listing three trailheads. Take 
the dirt road for about a quarter mile until it splits three 
ways. Take the middle fork about six-tenths of a mile to a 
bend in the road where there is a big flat area to park and 
sleep. This is National Forest land, so it's supposed to be 
legal to sleep there. No noise, no traffic, no hassles.

On Saturday morning, we found Steve at Road's End and 
drove back to the Lewis Creek trailhead. Starting at about 
4,400 feet, we took off for Frypan Meadow at 7,800 feet. 
About a mile up the trail, we came across a rattlesnake 
that we estimate was about five feet long. He slithered 
slowly off, so we did, too. The trail from Frypan Meadow 
to Grizzly Lakes is steep and not maintained, 
disappearing in a few places. We finished the trudge to 
camp around 4:00 PM and relaxed, taking in the great 
view of Mt. Harrington and the Canyon below.

We woke up Sunday morning to a sky completely filled 
with a light cloud covering and to equipment completely 
covered with lots of condensation. Packing wet gear, we 
moved our packs toward Mt. Harrington, dropping them 
near the trail, and continuing on toward the peak with day 
packs. Mt. Harrington has an impressive final 300 feet of 
granite, looking very steep from all angles. The plan was 
to go up the class 3 north ridge. We ascended the gentle 
valley to the east of the summit, climbed over the ridge 
connecting to the final 300 foot summit block, and 
proceeded up the class 3 rock. The rock was superb, as 
was the exposure on the east side, making the climb very 
enjoyable. We were on the summit a leisurely 1.5 hours 
after dropping our packs.

The view from the top is absolutely spectacular. We could 
identify peaks from Milestone Mountain to Banner and 
Ritter. This peak (or nearby Kennedy Mountain) is a must 
for all serious peak gazers. Best of all, the peak looks like 
it is climbed only a few times a year.

We descended from the summit, dropped directly out of 
the notch below the summit into the gentle valley we had 
ascended, grabbed our packs and headed out through 
Wildman Meadow, exiting at Deer Cove around 3:45 PM. 
This is about 1.5 miles from Lewis Creek along Highway 
180. The Wildman Meadow trail offers much better views 
than the Lewis Creek trail, both of Mt. Harrington and of 
the Great Western Divide. We didn't see any other people 
from the time we left our cars Saturday morning until we 
returned on Sunday afternoon. It was a nice trip late in the 
summer season.

- Paul Magliocco
 

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Unofficial (Private) Trips
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Private trips may be submitted directly to the Scree Editor, but 
are not insured, sponsored, or supervised by the Sierra Club or 
the PCS. They are listed here because they may be of interest to 
PCS members, not because they are endorsed by the PCS. OK?


Desert Peaks
Peaks:      Avawatz, Granite II, Turtle, Rosa Point
Date:       Dec 27-Jan 1    Wednesday-Monday
Contact:    Bill Hauser     408-243-4566

Meet in Baker, California at the Junction of Highway 127 
and Business 15 on Wednesday, 12/27/95, at 7:00 AM to 
climb Avawatz Mountain. The elevation is 6,154 feet and 
there is 2,500 feet of gain. Next we will climb Granite II 
(2,500 foot gain), Turtle (2,100 foot gain), and Rosa Point 
(4,000 foot gain). We will be car camping. The trip can be 
windy and cold at times. Call me for any further 
explanation.


Conditioning Bike
Peak:       Mt Tamalpias      Class 1 - 2,517'
Date:       January 27        Saturday
Raincheck:  February 4        Sunday
Contact:    Phyllis Olrich    415-322-0323
            phylliso@forsythe.stanford.edu
Co-Contact: Patt Baenen       415-494-3022
            pattb27@aol.com

Join Patt and me for a killer mountain bike ride up Mt. 
Tam. If off-road conditions are too muddy, we'll opt for a 
40-mile road ride up to Skyline from Palo Alto. Rain 
postpones to the Raincheck Date.


Aconcagua Acclimatization
Peak:    Mt Shasta      Snow - 14,162'
Dates:   January 5-7    Friday-Sunday
Contact: Steve Eckert   H/W 415-508-0500
         eckert@netcom.com

This trip is not for beginners, but is not intended to be an 
ice climb either. We will sleep on the summit plateau 
Saturday night for maximum altitude conditioning. 
Aconcagua climbers are encouraged to bring heavy packs 
and gear, and to climb with their intended partners. Non-
expedition climbers are welcome also. Bad weather 
shortens but does NOT cancel this trip. Plan on below 
zero temps and high wind, like you would expect on any 
really high peak.

Meet outside the Fifth Season in Shasta Village at 7am on 
the 5th, fully packed and ready to drive to the trailhead. 
Form your own climbing teams in advance: no need to 
contact the Contact unless you want to know who else is 
looking for partners.


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Official (PCS) Trips
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PCS trips must be submitted through the Scheduler (see cover).


Speak of Diablo
Peak:    Mount Diablo    Class 1 - 3,849'
Date:    January 7       Sunday
Leader:  Kelly Maas      H: 408-279-2054
         maas@idt.com    W: 408-944-2078

Start off the new year with a local climb. We'll ascend the 
north side of Mount Diablo, which is quite different from 
the other sides. Expect about 17 miles and 3500'. Meet at 
9:00 at the Mitchell Canyon trailhead in Clayton or carpool 
from the Bank of America on Calaveras (237) at Hillview 
(near 680) in Milpitas at 7:40.


Palmer Promises Pyramid Peak
Peak:      Pyramid Peak   Class 2 - 9,983'
Date:      January 13-15  Saturday-Monday
Leader:    Palmer Dyal    H: 415-941-5321
                          W: 415-604-6545
Co-Leader: Wanted
Topo:      Pyramid Peak 7.5'

This will be a moderately-paced 3 mile snowshoe trip to 
climb a relatively easy peak in the Desolation Wilderness 
area southwest of Lake Tahoe. The elevation gain is about 
1000' per mile and we plan to camp at tree line. We will 
have time to build snow caves on the first day and view 
the marvelous glaciated scenery of the whole Tahoe basin 
from the peak on the second day. There will be a choice of 
returning on Sunday or Monday depending on the weather, 
etc. This will be a good trip for beginning climbers.


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Mid-September On Shasta
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

We met up with the rest of our party at the intersection of 
97 and Pilgrim Creek Road that was to take us to the 
Brewer Creek trailhead. They were Kelly Maas, Rick 
Woodin, and Jonathan Penn. In our car were Kai 
Wiedman, leader, Dave Erskine, and myself. After 
hearing how little sleep they'd gotten by the railroad 
tracks, we were glad we couldn't find that spot the night 
before.

Our guide to the Brewer Creek trailhead was the new 
Fifth Season map which accurately guided us to where we 
wanted to go. This was much unlike our trip of several 
years ago when we diligently followed the directions on 
the old map but ended up on a road that changed from bad 
to worse and got out and walked. Now we know those 
directions were wrong.

After leaving the cars, we hiked up the trail a bit, then cut 
cross country towards the easily visible Hotlam Bolam 
ridge. We looked back as we walked so we could retrace 
our steps. There are horror stories of people se arching for 
their cars on the way out.

Once on the snow, we strapped on our crampons and 
headed up to the Hotlam Glacier, our intended route. 
When we hit the glacier, we roped up into two teams. 
There were plenty of crevasses, large and small, to be 
found, but the snow bridges were solid and provided safe 
crossings. We hoped to make it to 11,700 that night which 
would put us in good position to do the summit, descend, 
and drive home the next day. When we reached that spot, 
we were happy to find it to be very accommodating. There 
was little remodeling to do for those of us who had tents, 
and there were good bivy sites for the others. A bonus was 
a trickle of running water close by which saved us from 
melting snow.

From our vantage point, we could look up at the ice 
formations and crevasses towards the summit and down at 
a storm that was threatening close by. Fortunately, it 
didn't come our way.

In the morning we headed up for the summit. Kai wanted 
to go up to the steeper upper end of the glacier and cross 
the bergshrund. There was some concern (Kai called it 
trepidation) as we could see a snow bridge but didn't 
know if it would take us where we wanted to go. The other 
rope team chose to go a lower route.

We had to remind ourselves that we were in California. 
Kai called it a glaciated paradise! He said it was like 
going window shopping but not having to buy (i.e. fall 
into a 50-70 foot crevasse).

After the bergshrund, we belayed a tricky traverse which 
put us in the right spot to ascend our couloir. There we 
were, unroping, and looking up at 800 feet of 45 degree 
imposing ice in front of us. On the way up the couloir, 
Kelly suddenly appeared from the side and said that the 
other two parties on his rope team weren't feeling well 
and wanted to return. Kelly, coleader, graciously 
volunteered to go back with them.

It seemed that the couloir would go on forever. When we 
looked up it seemed that we were making very little 
progress, but finally the steepness relented. The payoff 
was that the summit was only 300 feet above us.

Several parties were already on top and had come up by 
various routes. The weather was unbeatable but we stayed 
only a little while, remembering that we had a long day 
ahead of us.

Descending by almost the same route, we easily found the 
car and after a quick dinner in McLeod, headed back to 
the Bay Area for one of those well known PCS 2:00 a.m. 
returns.

- Cecil Magliocco


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THE BACK PAGE
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Scree is the monthly journal of the Peak Climbing Section of 
the Sierra Club, Loma Prieta Chapter. Subscriptions are 
$10/year. Checks payable to "PCS" should be mailed to the 
Treasurer so they arrive before the last Tuesday of the expiration 
month.
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If you are on the PCS email broadcast, you have an EScree 
subscription. Send Email to  for 
additions/removals from the broadcast (the message is 
"subscribe sc-pcs" or "unsubscribe sc-pcs"). The EScree is 
FREE, but EScree-only subscribers must contact the Treasurer 
to become voting PCS members at no charge.
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Rock Climbing Classifications

The following trip classifications are to assist you in choosing 
trips for which you are qualified. No simple rating system can 
anticipate all possible conditions.
    Class 1: Walking on a trail.
    Class 2: Walking cross-country, using hands for balance.
    Class 3: Requires use of hands for climbing. A rope may be used.
    Class 4: Requires rope belays.
    Class 5: Technical rock climbing.

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Elected Officials
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Chair:
    Debbie Benham / dmbenham@aol.com
    415-964-0558 home 
    1722 Villa Street (Apt 2), Mountain View CA 94041

Vice Chair & Scheduler:
    Paul Magliocco / pmag@ix.netcom.com
    408-358-1168 home 
    15944 Longwood Drive, Los Gatos CA 95032

Treasurer and Membership Roster:
    Phyllis Olrich / phylliso@forsythe.stanford.edu
    415-322-0323 home, 415-725-1541 work,
    750 Homer Avenue, Palo Alto CA 94301

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Appointed Positions
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Scree & EScree Editor, Email Broadcast Operator:
    Steve Eckert / eckert@netcom.com
    415-508-0500 home/work, 415-508-0501 fax
    1814 Oak Knoll Drive, Belmont, CA 94002-1753

Mailing Labels and Change of Address:
    Paul Vlasveld / vlasveld@siecomp.com
    408-247-6472 home, 408-257-7910 x3613 work
    789 Daffodil Way, San Jose CA 95117

PCS World Wide Web Publisher:
    Aaron Schuman / schuman@sgi.com
    415-390-1901 work 
    http://reality.sgi.com/csp/pcs/index.html

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In Upcoming Issues:
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    New Mazones Guidebook
    The Lamont Loop
    Day Tripping Up Telescope The Hard Way
    solo trip report "Just Me and Mr. Marmot"
    The original "pondering" article for the Scree
    "Describe Your Closest Shave" compilation
    Ramaker's Rules for Reducing Rockfall
    Hi. My name is Jim C, and I'm a peak bagger.

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Meetings are the second Tuesday of each month. Deadline for submissions
to the next Scree is 12/26/95, the Monday two weeks prior to the meeting.
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