Scree for January, 1991
Newsletter of the Peak Climbing Section, Sierra Club, Loma Prieta Chapter
January, 1991                                              Vol. 24, No. 1

Next Meeting

Date:	Tuesday, January 8, 1991
Time:	8 PM
Location: Western Mountaineering Town & 
Country Village, San Jose

Debbie Bulger will be our presenter. She will show us views of trips we
can lead and some that we can follow. 

"Treasurer's Report" or "Accounting for the Uninitiated"

The PCS balance sheet is healthier now than it was at the beginning of the
year. This is due to several reasons. In March the annual subscription fee
was raised from $8 to $10. The average issue of Scree had 7.17 pages during
1990 versus 8.5 pages during 1989, resulting in a decrease of about $125 in
printing costs. Also, the free mailing of Scree beyond subscription
expiration date was discontinued. This resulted in savings of approximately
another $125. Wells Fargo Bank also waived its charges ($72/year) during

All of the above factors combined to show an increase in assets during 1990
fof $431.90 versus a loss of $186.66 during 1989. However, to determine the
true financial health of PCS, it is necessary to determine its liabilities
too; otherwise, as in the example where 50 new members sign up in December,
assets would increase by $500 without any red increase in the net worth of
the organization.

The SEC or the American Society of Accountants may not agree, but a quick and
reaonably accurate method is to assume that the PCS disbands as of the end of
the year and returns prorata shares of unused subscription to members. Such
an analysis shows a required return of $1,080 leaving the PCS with a net
worth of about $239. If a similar analysis at the end of 1991 should show a
significant decrease in net worth, then a dues increase should be considered
in 1992.

Balance Sheet, December 31, 1990

	Wells Fargo Checking	$1319.36

	Number of members	188
	Average refund owed	$5.145
	Total refund owed	$1,080.00
Net Worth			$239.36

Upcoming PCS Trips

*** January 12-13
South Cone, 4965' Class 2
Ventana Wilderness
Leader Aaron Schuman 415-494-3299 H (before 9:00) 415-335-1901 w

This is a 15 miles round trip backpacking from China Camp. Expect to see lots of
brushy ceanothus and chamise, and a few shady stands of oak, sycamore and bay.

*** Mar. 2-3
Mt. Carmel Class 1
Leader Aaron Schuman (415)335-1901 w

*** Mar. 30-31
Anderson Peak Class 1
Leader Aaron Schuman (415)335-1901 w

From the Editor:

Some of you may be wondering what happened to the trip reports you labored so
to produce. Well don't worry. They are safe in the editor's files (well, maybe
a little worry is in order given the state of said files) and waiting their
turn for inclusion in Scree.

Rather than cut the reports to crowd in as many as possible, the Editor
excercised her judgement (noticing the snug fit of some beloved jeans, she
should have exercised something else as well) and is running each report full
length in the order trips occurred.

Upcomping Private Trips

*** Jan 25-27
Eastern Woman Mountains Class 1
Sponser: Desert Survivors

Backpack loop is 17 miles. 566 miles to meeting place from Bay Area.

For futher information about the Desert Survivors' trips, contact Steve Tabor,

*** Jan 16
Guerrilla Warfare Climbing Leadership Training Session

Lecture/discussion series for future SPS leaders. Seminar given by veteran
Sneak Peak Section climber and developer of SSPS rating system. Prepare for
SPS Class S5 and above! Get inside scoop on Mt. Isabel, Poverty Ridge, and
Mt. Lewis.

We'll also discuss a special status for Diablo Range Guerrilla Warfare Peaks.
Some go to the Columbia River fo rworlds best windersufing, some go to Chamonix
or Yosemite of Bugaboos for the world's best rock climbing, and others go to
the Diablo Range of California for the world's best Guerrilla Warfare Climbing!!
It isn't a wilderness. It isn't a park. It's a Guerrilla Warfare Sneak Peakers

Call Mr. Raoul Macho 408-243-4566 for location and time.

*** Feb 2-3
Kaiser Crest Ski Traverse
Leader: Butch Suites (415)964-4227

This is a very strenuous, unscouted trip for experienced, fit ski mountaineers
only. Our goal is to ski the entire length of the Kaiser Crest, from its western
origin to Kaiser Pass, with Kaiser Peak (10,000'+) as the high point. We will
snow camp somewhere along the ridge Saturday night. Because of the difficult
mileage and terrain and the short days, I am limiting this trip to people I've
skied with on similar trips (unless you can convince me you have equivalent
endurance and experience).

Missing Something?

If you left anything behind at the Holiday party you should check with Butch
Suits who says he has retrieved some utensils and a mug. He'll bring them to
the next meeting, but if you are anxious you can call him at (415)964-4227.

February Preview

We will meet at Pacific Mountaineer at 7:30 PM on Tuesday, Feb. 12 to hear
John Flynn tell us about his adventures around the world during this past year.

Culture Comes to PCS

(to the tune of Jingle Bells)

Crashing through the brush
Manzanita blocks the way
Bare legs turn to mush
Thistles cause delay

Alder trees abound
Willows sound the call
Poison oak is found
This sure ain't the mall!

Bushwacking, bushwacking
Oh, I love it so
Bushwacking, bushwacking
The only way to go

My legs start to bleed
Thank God Sally's a nurse,
Bandages I need
Perhaps I'll need a hearse!

Upper lip is firm
Machete held on hight
Brush can't make me squirm
I wish that I could fly!

(Repeat Chorus)

(to the tun of Swanee)

Talus, how I love ya, how I love ya
My dear old talus
I'd give the world to be
Among the rocks and scree
I love ya talus, baby

Talus, waitin' for ya, prayin for ya
My knees just love ya
The folks at home will wait for a while
When I get on the talus pile.

Liability Blues
(to the tune of Sunny Side of the Street)

Grab your boots and get your hat
Leave your ice ax on the door step
Ropes cannot be used
Oh, we've got the liability blues.

Can't you hear those moans and groans
Leaders crying in the courtroom
Perhaps I'll take a cruise
Oh, we've got the liability blues.

I used to climb on the rocks
With the best of the jocks
I work holes in my socks
Lawyers hired-I've retired

Now I never use a rope
Crampons never touch my instep
We're scared of being sued
Oh, we've got the liability blues.

Valley Parade
(to the tune of Easter Parade)

In your climbing harness
Pink tights and day-glow rock shows
You'll be the hottest climber in the Valley Parade

Hardware 'round my shoulder
I feel I'm getting bolder
Oh, I'm the hottest climber in the Valley Parade

On the Nutcracker
Bishop's Terrace too
I'll admit my dear, it's true
I'm falling, I'm falling, I'm falling for you

Oh, I could write a sonnet
About the friendly hornet
Who courted my belayer in the Valley Parade.

(with apologies to Irving Berlin)


The preceeding ditties were contributed by Debbie Bulger who presented them at
the Holiday Party. She was assisted by Debbie Benham, Paul Vlasveld, and Anne
Gaullard. If you missed the event, you missed the opportunity to see the PCS
Rockettes in full climbing gear accompanied by a cellist who was reading her
music byher headlamp

Trip Reports

Mt. Gayley - Sept 1-3

This trip was run over Labor Day weekend. The participants included John
Ingvoldstad, Siamak Navid, Debbie Bulger, Kelly Maas, Doddy Domish and Allen
Hu. We met in Bishop on Saturday morning for a caffeine and sugar-filled
breakfast to get us up the trail. We got going out of the Glacier Lodge trail
head out of Big Pine at about 10:30 AM. The temperature was very pleasant, and
the view spectacular as we hiked up the south fork of Big Pine Creek. The
initial hiking was typical of the east side of the Sierra --- high desert
scrub brush with numerous rocks and trees. However the hiking was fairly easy,
and we gained elevation quickly while hiking on the trail.

After a couple of hours we left the trail at Willow Lake and had to slog over a
large bench at about 10,500'. The hike in took longer than we expected to due
to the long talus field. We did not arrive at camp until almost 4 PM. We had
planned to climb Temple Crag on Saturday, but due to the lateness in the day,
we decied to conserver our energy to climb Mt. Gayley or Mt. Sill on Sunday.

We got off to an early start on Sunday morning and by 10:30 AM we had a good
view of Mt. Gayley, and the summit seemed close. The whole distance between
our base camp and Mt. Gayley was one large talus field. The going was slow,
and we were fairly careful as some of the talus was loose. We followed Roper's
instructions, which was customarily vague -- "Follow a large gully. Several
variations are possible." We went up a large gully, then went up Class 3-4
chutes, until we were challenged by a squeeze chimney which a I judged to be
5.6 or 5.7, even though it was short. We down climbed our route 200 feet short
of the sumit and traversed over to the ridge line between Mt. Sill and Mt.
Gayley. On the ridge we found a pleasant Class 3 route which led to the summit.
The view of the Palisade group from Gayley was very spectacular. You also have
excellent views of Winchell and Agassiz. Norman Clyde Peak and Middel Pal can
be seen to the south. The Palisade group have the most spectacular alpine
scenery in the Sierra. There are ice coulirs, the Palisade glacier with its
many crevasses and the bergschrund in addition to the breathtaking mountains.
It is much more interesting than the Whitney group where I had spent 4 days
climbing in August.

It is certainly an area one would want to return to. I will return next year
to climb Sill and N. Palisade. We spent an hour or so on top taking in the
views and resting. The talus slog back to camp took about 4 hours, and we
arrived about an hour before dark. The next morning we hiked out and had lunch
at the Bishop grill. The line of traffic from Mamooth to L.A. was one long
parking lot, and I was happy that we were going north instead of south. Overall
the trip was excellent, a good group, spectacular terrain, and everyone made
the peak without incident.

-- Allen Hu

Tower Peak

* Dan Tupper noted that the Tower Peak trip report in the December Scree
* reminded him of a frightening memeory --

In the summer of 1989, I was a member of a large Sierra Club climbing party to
Tower Peak.

On descending we were still ready for extra adventure, so we decided to go down
through the Keyhole, down the chute so aptly described in John Ingvoldstad's
trip report. I started down, followed by Rob Rowlands. Three other climbers
were enjoying the view while standing on top of the ridge just to the north of
the Keyhole. One of them dislodged a humungous rock and sent it sliding toward
the chute below. Rob yelled, "Rock", giving me enough time to flatten myself
against the wall of the chute. It missed me by a millimeter or two. Only the
grace of God and a faithful Guardian Angel kept me from being a statistic. If I
had been anywhere else in that chute, I would have been history. I swore our
little group to secrecy, but the remainder of our party may have noticed that
I was a bit more subdued and religious for the rest of the trip.

Based on my experience, I would not recommend going through the Keyhole.
Moments before the rock let loose, I had noticed that the floor of the chute
was smooth and covered with fine rock powder. I remember thinking this might
not be a good place to be.

By the way, we camped at the same place as John's party. It isone of the nicest
campsites that I have seen.

Echo Peaks and Mt. Hoffman

Participants: Kai Wiedman, Debbie Bulger, Patrick Powers, Petra Wiedman, Ed
Martin, Gerg Rau, Vreni Ansbaugh, Gary Pinson, Kate and John Ingvoldstand,
Craig Payne, Frank Holden, Dave LaPlant, Merl Payne, Brian Goldman.

We camped late on Friday night, Sept. 21, circling and circling the Tuolomne
Meadow campgrounds, trying to locate campsites G5 and G6, perhaps the most
difficult endeavor of our weekend trip. Next morning, we parked at the
Cathedral Peak trailhead and walked about an hour in cloudy, increasingly more
hostile weather to Budd Lake, where blue sky and sunchine suddnely broke
through the begginnings of a snow shower. Walking past Cathedral Peak, where
we were given an expert summation of the avenues of conquering this mountain
by Kai and Debbie, we made our way up the scree slope to the Echo Peaks, all
nine of them. Some of us decided to climb #7, supposedly Class 3, defined as
"if you fall you don't die, but you might break a leg." Capably led to the
top, the short climb was an exhilirating, adrenalin-rushing event, at least for
this neophyte.

Others elected to start with #8, where the climber is met at the last 10 feet
of the climb with a knife edge -- a "sidewalk in the sky", as one climber put
it. Kai and Patrick straddled their way to the top. Next, #5, a fine climb,
with easy handholds, "jugs and buckets." "Remember, weight over feet, balanced,
use your arms for balance, not to haul yourself over the rocks", Debbie warned

Number 6, considered Class 3, was left for a later day. Only Patrick mustered
himself halfway to the peak. Pkeask #1, #2, and #3 were climbed by half of us,
befoire making our way down the slopes, back to Budd Lake, to our cars,
resupplying at the store just outside Tuolomne Meadows campground.

Climbing was easy compared to the vocabulary that this climber tried to
understand. Who but an expert could understand Kai's colorful patter: "jugs,
buckets, do a travers, up a system of shelfs, a bannister, jamming, budging a
chimney, mantling, bomber hold."

We slept well that night, after sampling each other's gourmet cuisine and
listening to everything from bear stories to debate over the future leadership
of the local Sierra Club.

On Sunday, we packed up and left for the trailhead of Mt. Hoffman, the weather
ambiguous. We proceeded up about two miles to May Lake where it's possible for
campers to stay at prepared dormitory-style housing, complete with meals. Few
campers were persent, even fewer fish were jumping in the cold lake waters.
Some of us elected to hike on the trail to the top of Mt. Hoffman; others
decided to climb the Class 3 rocks. At the time, the weather didn't seem
particularly threatening. Breathtaking views of our previous day's climb were
seen from the top of the first slope. We then proceeded to the top of the
mountain, when it began to show, loghtly at first, then a harder powder.

(to be continued)


	Aaron Schuman
	3875 Park Blvd #22
	Palo Alto, CA 94306
	(415) 494-3299 H
	(415) 335-1901 w

	Debbie Bulger
	775 A Brommer St.
	Santa Cruz, CA 95062

	Bebbie Benham
	1984 N. Star Circle
	San Jose, CA 95131
	(408) 945-8030 H

	Judith Yarborough
	2070 Mills Ave.
	Menlo Park, CA 94025
	(415) 854-9288 h
	(415) 725-1773 w

SCREE is a publication of the Peak Climbing Section of the Sierra Club,
Loma Prieta Chapter. Subscriptions are $10 per year. Checks should be sent to
the treasurer, Debbie Benhan. To insure an uninterrupted subscriptions, checks
must be received no later than the last Tuesday of the expiration month.

PCS meetings are held on the second Tuesday of every month.
See SCREE for meeting location and program information.

Trip Classifications

	Class 1: Walking on a trail.
	Class 2: Walking cross-country, using hands for balance.
	Class 3: Requires use of hands for climbing, rope may be used
	Class 4: Requires rope belays.
	Class 5: Technical rock climbing.

Deadline for SCREE contributions is two weeks before the next meeting.
Mail your contributions to the SCREE editor.

For change of address or address corrections, write or call
Paul Vlasveld, 157 Kellogg Way, Santa Clara 95051.
(408) 24101144 h / (408) 257-7910 w.