You are hereTechnical Tip: Camming Pro Comparison

Technical Tip: Camming Pro Comparison


By Rick Booth June, 2001 

You have decided to go to Indian Creek and climb the endless number of splitter
cracks in the sandstone there.† The weather is perfect, the camping is cool,
and the vistas are fantastic.† Thumbing through the Indian Creek Climbs guide
book and in short order Generic Crack is a must do.† The recommended gear: eight
2.5 friends in addition to other stuff!† That's a lot of same size cams and
that's only one crack.† Scrounging gear from friends is the only way to handle
this.† Unfortunately, most of us use a variety of stuff and some of it overlaps
and some of it doesn't.† Even if you aren't on your way to Indian Creek and
wish to build a rack with duplicates of certain sizes, it sometimes makes sense
to cover these sizes with different style camming devices.† This means different
manufacturers.† The following table was put together to cross reference Friends
to Camalots and the Metolius four cam series.† The Metolius FatCams were also
included.† These are good on sandstone and are sometimes referred to as "desert
cams".

 Technical/Forged 
Friends
 Range (in)     Camalots   Range (in)     Metolius
 Power Cam 
 Range (in)     Metolius
 Fat Cam 
 Range (in) 
            00 .3-.5      
00 .4-.6   0.1 .34-.54   0 .4-.6      
      0.2 .41-.65            
0 .5-.7   0.3 .50-.86   1 .5-.8      
0.5 .6-.9   0.4 .61-1.05   2 .6-.9      
1 .7-1.1               2 .7-1.0
1.25 .8-1.3   0.5 .8-1.3   3 .8-1.1   3 .8-1.2
1.5 .9-1.4         4 .9-1.4   4 .9-1.4
1.75 1-1.6   0.75 1.0-1.6            
2 1.1-1.7   1 1.2-2   5 1.1-1.7   5 1.1-1.7
2.5 1.3-2.2   2 1.5-2.5   6 1.3-1.9   6 1.4-2.0
3 1.7-2.6         7 1.7-2.3   7 1.6-2.4
3.5 2.0-3.2   3 2.0-3.4   8 2.0-2.8   8 1.9-3.0
4 2.5-3.9   3.5 2.4-4.1   9 2.2-3.3   9 2.4-3.6
      4 2.9-4.9   10 2.8-4.2      
5 3.3-5.4   4.5 3.5-5.8            
6 4.5-7.5   5 4.2-7.0            

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